Marseille, pure French Provedance
Dreaming of a holiday that mixes fun, culture and relaxation? Marseille, in the south of France, is for you. Its benign climate, situation and special light have been inspiration for celebrated artists, including Braque, Cézanne, Derain and Marquet. Founded by the Greeks, it is one of the oldest cities in Europe and the second oldest in France. (It is also the second most populated French city). Its rich history and great number of monuments, beauty spots and museums have put Marseille on the international tourism map.
Marseille is the third largest port in Europe (after Rotterdam and Antwerp). This constant flow of ships and passengers from across the world has lent it a cultural mix that is palpable in its people, neighbourhoods and architecture, making an all-together cosmopolitan city.
Five days is about the right amount of time to spend here. The best bet is to divide your itinerary into different areas. Public transport is very good; you can get around in the metro, by bus and by ferry. The best way to do this is with a Citty Pass; it's cheap and will also get you into museums and out to the islands.
Booking a well-situated hotel is key to navigating your way around this marvellous city. The Beauvau Marsella Viejo Puerto is perfect. It has stellar service and is located a few steps from the Vieux Port metro station – a major hub. You'll find masses of stalls selling oysters and whatever else you can think lining the streets that lead down to the port – at really great prices.
In the same area there are dozens of restaurants where you can eat exquisite fresh fish or a superb bouillabaisse. Here are two that are recommended:
Une Table au Sud: This restaurant has fantastic views over the port and offers modern, creative, mouth-watering cuisine. Standout dishes include a chestnut and sea urchin soup.
Le Miramar: They say it’s the best restaurant in the city to try bouillabaisse. Take that onboard and find out for yourself.
An easy stroll through the port leads you to the Fort Saint-Jean. Constructed during the reign of Louis XIV, it is also the location of the MuCEM; the first major museum dedicated to Mediterranean civilisations. Its wide focus spans anthropology, history, archaeology, art history and contemporary art. The museum is housed over three sites in different parts of Fort Saint- Jean, connected via a pleasant walkway through a Mediterranean garden.
Another pathway, starting from the Royal Gate, takes you to the neighbourhood of La Panier and the Saint-Laurent church. Despite its shady past, this neighbourhood is today a mix of traditional streets and squares with new design boutiques, restaurants and museums – all in all lending it a decidedly bohemian air. A must see.
Cours Julien is another interesting neighbourhood. A garden has taken over the centre of its main square that also hosts fashion boutiques, theatres and terrace cafes. Rues Bussy l'Indien, Pastoret and Vian stand out for their alternative vibe, with various clubs, cafes and more shops. Take note of the street art!
Marseilles geographical situation makes it a perfect base for outings in a boat. From Vieux Port you can take one of the urban ferries. One excursion you shouldn't let slip by is to Chateau d'If, where you can still see the hole that one of one of the prisoners dug in the cell wall. He was the inspiration for 'The Count of Montecristo', the classic novel by Alexander Dumas.
From here you can continue on to visit the Frioul Islands where you can spend the afternoon visiting various inlets, beaches and sandy creeks – the perfect way to end the day. It's a place of freedom and total relaxation.
Two must-sees are the Basilque Notre-Dame de la Garde and the Chateau Longchamp. The first is the city's architectonic emblem. Situated up on the hill, it affords marvellous 360º views, watching over sailors, fishermen and all the people of Marseille. Its Roman-Byzantine style is a perfect example of the large-scale buildings Napoleon III imposed in Marseille. To get there, take the bus from Vieux Port. The palace, dating from 1869, commemorates the canalization of the Durance River to Marseille. It also houses the Museum of Fine Arts and the Natural History Museum as well as a botanical garden. Ad hoc street markets are all over the city, selling fruit, fish, and clothing and brick a brac. Dive in and rub shoulders with the locals – you are bound to find something unique to take back home!
Don't leave without discovering the famous Marsella soap. It history goes back to the 16th century. Find out more in one of the company's seven factories.
The city's tourist office is situated very close to Vieux Port. Pick up a City Pass here as well as plenty more info on what to do in Marseille.
So, what are you waiting for? Reserve a Vueling flight to this magnificent city here!
Text: Tensi Sánchez de www.actitudesmgz.com
Photography: Fernando Sanz
Barcelona on five senses
By Mariana Calleja from TravelThirst
Barcelona has given me almost four years of experience. Experience that came along with a dream, and how not to love a place you once dreamt of and next thing you are standing right there?
I have had the chance the embrace this place, to have it all for myself and to sense it from head to bottom, from mountain to coast line, from iconic places to hidden undiscovered corners.
So please let me take you into these gothic old streets, into the most perfectly built neighborhood and into some greatest spots in history, in art, in culture, in food-n-drinks tasting. Let me get you inspired into sensing this unique city we all have heard about: Barcelona!
See
Definitely a great quantity of things to see in this city, but you all know where to find the usual stuff, right? So let’s not stop here and let’s keep moving forward to what you won’t find on a common travel guide.
Montjuic Magic Fountain: the best and most beautiful free water fountains we have seen in our travels, these fountains in Barcelona are not to be missed. With a winter schedule (Friday-Saturday 7-9pm) and a summer schedule (Thursday-Sunday 9-11:30 pm) you will have an endless opportunity to enjoy this show. Music, colors and water become alive all together in a beautiful set of artistic display.
View of Barcelona from down under the W Hotel. Right on the corner of Barceloneta Beach, you will find a surprising spot, not as touristy as one might think, with plenty of coffee places in order to enjoy the afternoon, winter or summer. Even a mojito if you please on a new “chiringuito” or beach bar for quite a low budget. Feel free to walk, rent a bike, roller skates, or even take the bus. Just make sure you don’t miss this secret spot. One city view you won’t get from anywhere else in town!
Castellers: traditional and local human towers! You read that right. Declared as a Human Heritage, this local activity has it all for your sight: from amazement to stressful balancing moments. Every neighborhood and every town has its own group of castellers. They don’t perform daily or weekly, but you can definitely search or ask for the next presentation closest to you. And it is always a free attraction, so write this down as I write and you read.
Smell
Unfortunately, salty-sea smell is not an option here. Despite being such a salty sea, the Mediterranean Sea has not a great or strong sea-like aroma. But it doesn’t really matter when you have such a city right on its side.
Barcelona has appeared to my nose as a fantastic lab many times, even for all senses. But I have found out it is mostly about the scents on the street. Like what? Well, bakery and chocolate shops. Not to leave fresh fruit markets aside of course. But to me, bakeries, pastry shops and bread shops are the winners to my scent-album! So many of them throughout town and all of them so worth even a little taste, not only a deep smell.
Besides, it’s quite cheap! So don’t hesitate on trying any good “patisserie” whenever in town (even better if hidden from main touristy streets or areas). Sit down peacefully or why not, take away to that little corner at the beach. It will all be worthwhile and you will enjoy the moment forever.
Also, do not doubt indulging your nose with some fresh market scents. It is all about juicy fruits, jumping next to the fish section with quite a different smell. Then hitting the isle down to the sausages and meat stands, just to finally and happily end up at the chocolates stand. Open your lungs, close your eyes, grab your purse and take a long deep breath right there. Your soul will regain energy afterwards.
Listen
Traditional castellers’ music: a small band particularly known as “cobla” are the ones in charge of playing some air instruments with one unique kind of sound, as part of their human towers ritual, setting the right time and rhythm of the ascending. Nothing like we have heard before. It certainly gives some emotion and feeling to the whole event. Once more, castellers and their music is worth mentioning here. As a free activity, you can put two senses to good practice while enjoying this incredible performance.
Sagrada Familia’s bells during christmas time: no words needed in order to describe this one. As simple as it sounds. So if you are around during christmas time, make sure you go visit and sit somewhere around this church, preferably on the night of December 24th. Then just sit and let go into an overwhelming experience as the church become alive to the sounds of bells playing the Holy Night.
Taste
Food and flavors in Barcelona is all about one thing: Traditions. And with these, let me give you a few but tasty tips on what to taste, depending on the season you are visiting the city. Don’t worry, there is something for everyone!
Calçots: a winter onion-like dish full of fun! Get your glove and bib ready to dip these onions into the most exquisite homemade special sauce.
Fideua: a paella made with tiny noodles and served with alioli. Couldn’t get better!
Cava with lemon sorbet: happy new years! Unbelievable fresh and classy drink, easy to make and ready to welcome a new year full of adventures.
Panellets: Easter week time brings some delightful little pastries of several kinds. They are called panellets and are sold by weight. Go by a pastry shop and buy one of each, then head to the nearest park and enjoy with a nice cuppa coffee or even some more Cava. Cozy, warm and sweet flavor.
Feel
The toughest sense to discover and describe, but also the most memorable one within our sensory album of life.
Barcelona is the heart and home for Modernism, which brings a special detail to be touched. Something you will barely find in any other place in the world.
Trencadís: this is the name for the very popular technique by Antonio Gaudi, the one with lots of ceramic pieces, with tons of colors and images, even hidden messages. This technique makes a unique surface, which can be found extensively at the Parc Guell mainly, but also at many other of Gaudi’s art, such as Casa Batlló and La Pedrera.
San Jordi’s City Door: a magnificent historical monument at the the Crown’s Archive building right in the heart of the Gothic neighborhood. Made with bronze in 1975 by Josep Maria Subirachs, this huge door gives a great overview to the history of Catalonia, all within the Sant Jordi legend: a saint who defeated a dragon in order to save an entire town and a princess. Its greatest figures and irregular surface lets people enjoy some learning while touching history itself.
After these experiences, you will certainly have some great stories to share and many memories through the senses that will make you want to come back to Barcelona.
By Mariana Calleja from TravelThirst
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Poblenou from Industrial District to Creative Quarter
Welcome to Poblenou, Barcelona’s most vibrant creative district! A time-honoured district, removed from the city centre but near the seaside, where the working-class character mingles with cutting-edge trends. An area in constant transformation, from its industrial past to its cosmopolitan present, where Barcelona’s modernity and tradition fit perfectly together.
Its cityscape continually mutating, with avant-garde projects mushrooming on every corner, Poblenou is living out its finest moment. We tour the area to learn its secrets – let’s get going!
Plaça de les Glòries, Kilometre 0
Forget the Plaça Catalunya, the Ramblas and even Passeig de Gràcia. When Ildefons Cerdà devised his master layout for modern Barcelona in the 19th century, he staked out “les Glòries” as his geometric centre. That is where Els Encants Vells has relocated. With a history of over seven centuries, it is one of Europe’s oldest flea markets, where customers can still haggle! A stone’s throw from there stands “La Grapadora” (the Stapler), a grey-skinned building which houses the Disseny Hub, a must-visit shrine for all lovers of fine design.
The phallus, the suppository, the torpedo… there are no end of nicknames for the Torre Agbar. Indeed, this skyscraper, designed by Jean Nouvel, is an endless source of comments. Nouvel claims his forms pay tribute to the Sagrada Familia and the mountains of Montserrat. While we don’t know to what extent that is true, the fact is that ever since its construction, Barcelona’s skyline has become a tad more “masculine”.
Art, Design, Music and Much More
We had breakfast at Espai Joliu, a concept store where plants and a love of good coffee reign supreme. Here they serve up Nømad Coffee, roasted a few steps away and sold at Røaster’s Home. Next door, the premises of a former print shop operate as an art gallery. This is La Plataforma, a venue where art offerings are paired to all kinds of culinary experiences.
Shopping addicts can buy Scandinavian furniture at Noak Room, revamp their wardrobe with colourful prints from Brava Fabrics and augment their collection with vinyls from Ultra-local Records, a meeting point for local music lovers specialising in independent labels.
If you happen to be a culture vulture, Sala Beckett offers the latest in contemporary theatre in a top-drawer modernist setting. More urbane are the offerings at La Escocesa, an erstwhile factory now hosting art ateliers. Each year they hold the festival of murals, when their centuries-old walls become plastered with graffiti. The most innovative trends feature at Hangar, an avant-garde visual arts centre housed in one of the most renowned former industrial complexes in the city.
Needless to say, we wind up the day in Razzmatazz, a veritable clubbing institution where all young Barceloners worth their salt have spent at least one night on their legendary dance floors. Be it indie, electronic or live performances, good music never stops playing at Razzmatazz.
And, with the beat still resounding in our head, we leave the industrial Poblenou and head for the hub of district life here, the Rambla del Poblenou!
The Rambla del Poblenou
In this, the undisputed nerve centre of the district, the laid back rhythm and the sight of people chatting in the sun are the giveaways that this was and still is a village. At weekends, it gets crowded out by groups of friends having a beer on the bar terraces, while during the fiesta mayor in September its streets are taken over by community suppers, parading street bands and nocturnal revelry. This is also the area with the highest concentration of iconic hangouts, where we stopped to recharge our batteries.
Our first stop is a classic among classics – Can Recasens, a delicatessen founded in 1906 which by night becomes a restaurant serving Catalan cuisine. Their assortments of cheeses, cold meats and wines is amazing and you can also buy the products you have tasted during the dinner.
No less popular is the Orxateria El Tio Che, the palace of tigernuts. These purveyors of tigernut milk prepare a 100% craft product based on a recipe which has not changed for 5 generations. Summer sees endless queues of people lining up to seek relief from the heat in this natural refreshment.
And, from the sweetest corner to the corner with the longest history. Across the road stands the Casino l’Aliança del Poblenou, a meeting place which transports the visitor to the times of the Athenian working classes and the struggle for freedom of assembly. If you happen to be passing by, be sure to go inside – its walls breathe a part of Barcelona’s recent history.
Those wishing to wade into the sea up to their calves should press on down the Rambla. A few minutes ahead you come to the beaches of Bogatell and Mar Bella, the least crowded in the city. In summer, the sand is peppered with beach bars and runners trot along the water’s edge to the rhythm of the sea breeze.
Maritime Poblenou
We return to terra firma in the direction of the Plaça Prim, the site of fishermen’s cottages in the 19th and 20th century. The square has withstood the test of time and is home to Els Pescadors, a former fishermen’s tavern and one of the most long-standing fish restaurants in town. Here, the speciality is fresh fish and seafood sourced daily at the neighbouring fish auctions.
Nearby streets are seemly frozen in time, swathed in a tranquility typical of coastal villages. However, the hush is in stark contrast to the hubbub of Calle Marià Aguiló, the emblematic shopping precinct where you will come across La Pubilla del Taulat, a wine cellar which opened in 1886 (the oldest in Poblenou) and where you can have wine and tapas any hour of the day.
No less legendary is the bar, El Timbal. Located alongside the former textile mill named Can Felipa, their patatas bravas (spicy sautéed potatoes) are acclaimed throughout the city. They are baked in their jackets and topped with a finger-licking all-i-oli (oil and garlic sauce). You can accompany them with reasonably priced homemade dishes while you have a few beers on their crowded terrace.
From Palo Alto to the Fórum – Industrial Past, Creative Present
A red-brick chimney welcomes us to Palo Alto. This former textile mill is a one-of-a-kind urban island. Remodelled as a creative hub, its former industrial bays have been infused with new trends by a host of resident designers, architects and artists. Stroll through their jungle garden and try the menu at La Cantina, a restaurant offering traditional cuisine which serves a delicious paella on Fridays. Palo Alto is also the site of the crowded Palo Alto Market, a monthly gathering of the city’s “beautiful people” who come to discover the latest trends set by local designers.
And, when you feel low on energy, be sure to seek food and shelter at Bar Tras Paso, a colourful, bohemian eatery with French culinary flavours where you can end the evening with a duck magret and chat into the wee hours, glass of wine in hand.
But, if you still have the strength, you can go up the Torre de les Aigües del Besòs, witness to the area’s industrial past and the spot where the 90s British band Blur recorded their music video, On Your Own. The 60-metre-high water tower has an observation platform with stunning views of the city.
And, from the heights, with the sea a stone’s throw away, and with the Diagonal Mar skyscrapers, Mt Tibidabo, Montjuïc and the esplanade of the Fórum in the background, we take our leave. We have reached the city limits and now it’s time to change course.
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Text by Núria Gurina
Photos: Matt Cornish, filippsh, Adrià Goula, Joanbrebo, Espai Joliu, Santmarti.info, Selbymay/Wikicommons, Mathieu Thouvenin
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A walk through Lille
Just mentioning that you are travelling to Lille [Lil] will provoke the inevitable question of ‘where is it’?. Close to the Belgian border, it couldn’t have better communications: 20 minutes from Belgium, 1 hour from Paris and 1 hour 20 minutes from London, Lille is the perfect union of the French and the Flemmish.
Arras
We’d been travelling for 3 days and had time to visit Arras. We arrived on a Tuesday and we were taken directly (thanks to a kamikaze driver that drove faster than Fernando Alonso) to Arras. A city (a small one) that over 4 years was destroyed by the war (as in the rest of the north and border country) and which has been entirely rebuilt. We were taken through the tunnels that been home to thousands of soldiers and to the museum that houses the carriages of the Palace of Versailles… Ohhh, they were spectacular (the rich, although this was 600 years ago, already living like real and privileged kings of the 21st Century).
The carriages will be at the Fine Arts Museum of Arrasuntil November: traps sculpted into the shape of animals, sedan chairs and horse harnesses, including the coaches from the wedding procession of Napoleon I, the coronation carriage of Charles X and the impressive funeral carriage of Luis XVIII. Literally impressive: we were taking pictures of the biggest carriage in the museum (they had to bring it in piece by piece) and we turned around and saw the funeral carriage. We were amazed. Was it a curiosity? The children’s’ carriages were pulled by… ponies?? No. By goats. An incredible exhibition that we can’t recommend too highly.
The bell tower of the City Hall is part of the national UNESCO heritage. And it comes as no surprise. You just can’t resist going up it and, apart from enjoying the view, touching the bell and its enormous clock. If you are lucky enough for the bells to chime just as you are descending the spiral staircase, you’ll see how intensive and deafening it is. It is here where the soldiers hid inside these stone tunnels. The most interesting aspect is its history and this place simply breathes it.
To see all this, you will have passed through the Grande Place. Destroyed in the First World War, this square built in a Flemmish-Baroque style is an architectural marvel. Every Wednesday and Saturday morning you can enjoy its market and in addition, if it rains, there’s no problem as the arches that encircle the square mean that the market can be moved to a covered area.
The most interesting aspect is that it is not only the exterior of the square attracts your attention. It also has underground walkways that were, in their day, first reserved for the carriages, but secondly, they were used as store rooms, refuges and hospitals during the 1944 bombardments.
5 hours is enough, don’t you think?
Transportation
The following day we awoke in Lille at dawn. The city has two metro lines. Don’t take them as there’s no need. Walk through the streets to start with and enjoy its architecture. Don’t waste your time and money on the metro. You can see they have a community bicycle system or “bicing”, just like in many other cities. We’d recommend you hire one rather than use your own as it’s much, much cheaper.
If anyone feels like taking the tour bus, it’s best they don’t. It takes almost 1 hour in which you see everything, but from a long way away. But walking around for the morning, you can enjoy every corner. We were able to see just how patient the residents of Lille are: a lorry unloading at 10:15 in the morning and after almost 15 minutes not one car had hooted, not even a gentle beep, nothing. Amazing patience.
Going out (eating and drinking)
It’s not easy to eat out well and cheaply in Lille. The best option is to go to one of its typical taverns that provide meals for the workers and where each tavern makes its own beer. Do you like beer? If so, you’ll love the Lille taverns.
Estaminet is an example of a good, nice and cheap tavern. What about salads? Just one serving can feed 3. And what’s the typical dish? Meat cooked in its own homemade beer with potatoes is a delicacy to be enjoyed by people with a healthy appetite. In addition, there is one cold dish they serve in gelatine (even today): with different types of meat, this is a dish that will definitely rekindle your energy. For dessert, as in any restaurant in the city (something to remember), either ask for a coffee or a gourmet coffee: they will serve you your coffee together with a board with 4 mini desserts on it. Yummy… This is something we should definitely import ipso facto.
Chicorée is the ideal place to have a beer and try its crème brûlée. Delicious.
If your gourmet coffee hasn’t filled you up enough, go straight along to Meert: one of the oldest patisseries in the country that has been in business since 1761 to make everything you see before you irresistible. You can’t see them, but inside there are two dining rooms where you can sit and enjoy their pastry delights at any hour of the day. What’s the most typical? Their vanilla and caramel waffle. But be warned these are not like the waffles we know in Spain but are thinner and with two together make a vanilla and caramel sandwich.
The rue Solferino is the street where you can find most of Lille’s pubs and discos. Taking a walk through the Vieux district without having a beer somewhere along the line is almost impossible.
Visits
As regards what you should not miss and what is an example of how to make the best use of space is Le Piscine. A swimming pool that was going to be demolished, transformed into a museum: sculpture, painting and clothes collections are organised and structured with a logical order that is breath-taking. A place that, even if it hadn’t been converted into a museum, is worthy of a visit: with its huge swimming pool, the men’s and women’s changing rooms, the first jacuzzi and the shower rooms exude the history of everything that took place within. Marvellous.
The best thing of all is that, in the centre, you can find: the Opera House, the Stock Exchange, French and Flemmish architecture (you will be able to identify it because of its typical colours, gilded with red brick) its fountain and the statue of the woman that looks over the square.
Before you reach the Museum of the Comtesse de Lille Hospice (a hospice and orphanage dating from the 15th Century), an intact building and one we recommend you arrive at 1 hour before it closes (if not, they get upset and only let you visit two rooms), we’d advise you to go inside the cathedral Notre-Dame de la Treille: situated in the old heart of Lille, the main facade is the least attractive we have seen for a long time. Certainly it would put you off going in. Bad idea. The interior of the cathedral hides a view of the facade that we are not going to reveal to you here. It’s so worthwhile having a look. You’ll be astonished at how a facade that looks as though it belongs to a factory can hide away so many surprises.
Shopping and markets (the biggest in Europe)
In the Grande Place, you will find Furet du Nord, the biggest bookshop in Europe. This is a talking point. You’ll find it hard not to come across a book that you didn’t even know existed.
Ombre Portées is a very special perfumery. For expert noses of scents, this is the most exclusive perfumery in the north of France: everything that is not found on the commercial circuit, they have here. Personal service and a selection of scents and perfumes that, if you like this sort of thing, you just have to go in and ask. You won’t be disappointed.
Philippe Olivier is a cheese shop that you barely notice as you walk by. 30 seconds away from the Meert Patisserie, in a tiny street, means that you might pass right by without even seeing it. Small but with the best selection of cheeses in Lille, you have to go in, listen to the recommendations and walkout with a delicious cheese.
In the Place du Concert, you can enjoy a typical regional market every Sunday morning.
It’s a university city in winter, and if everything we’ve explained here is not enough for you, during the first weekend in September, Lille hosts the biggest market in Europe. Yes it does. It’s 100 kilometres in length with 10,000 vendors and one tradition: eating mussels and chips. Without a shadow of a doubt, we’ll be back in September.
By Elisa G Martin
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