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Eastenders: Spitalfields, Sunday Up Market, Brick Lane

The place to be seen today, the new glamour zone of the East End, is found between the Spitalfields, theSunday Up Market andBrick Lane, markets housing loads of vintage shops, arts and crafts, jewellery and little stalls selling all types of food where you can wander around at will.

Brick Lane

Its name comes from the street that used to be the home of the brick and tile factory. The southern half is home to part of the Bangladeshi community, with a large number of touristy curry houses, food and material shops which is why the street is commonly known as Banglatown, while the northern half is bursting with unique and original shops.

Don’t miss the famous bagels from Beigel Bake at Number 159Brick Lane, open 23 hours a day.

The Carpenters Arms

The pub, The Carpenter’s Arms, situated in Cheshire Street, has a romantic story associated with it. The Kray twins, Reggie and Ronnie, the most famous gangsters of London’s East End, bought it in 1967 and gave it to their mother as a present.

The tale came to an end with their life imprisonment sentence. On 11 October 2000 Reggie Kray’s funeral took place all along Cheshire Street.
They say that such was his black sense of humour that they built the bar out of coffin lids.
Today, The Carpenter’s Arms is a welcoming pub with more than fifty brands of beer to choose from and a wonderful clientele that keep the story of the Kray brothers alive.
The current owners, Eric and Nigel, managed to rescue the pub at the beginning of the century from being turned into housing. They found the place completely ruined – apart from the famous bar made of coffin lids.

The Carpenters Bar
www.carpentersarmsfreehouse.com
73 Cheshire Street

Beyond Retro

Cheshire Street is dotted with a wide variety of vintageshops and young designers, but at Number 110 you will find one of the biggest, a huge second-hand clothing warehouse where you can lose yourself picking through an enormous hoard of boots, t-shirts, dresses as well as all types of gadgets.

Beyond Retro
110-112 Cheshire St.
www.beyondretro.com/

Vibe Bar

The Vibe Bar shares its entrance with theOld Truman Brewery, that in past times used to be home to London’s largest brewery. From its pleasant terrace you climb the steps to 4 large areas in which they hold exhibitions, reggae and experimental music concerts and DJ sessions. The inside of the bar is decorated with graffiti art, big sofas and a few antique gaming machines. In September is hosts the Brick Lane Music Festival.

Vibe Bar
91-95 Brick Lane
www.vibe-bar.co.uk

Dray Walk

In this alleyway calledDray Walk we find the Cafe 1001 with its rustic wooden terrace alongside one of the three Rough Trade shops in London where you can find the best selection of vinyl and CDs as well as café and sofas where you can relax and connect to internet.

Al Volo

Opposite one of the entrances toSunday Up Market, is the Al Volo , where you can enjoy excellent Italian food.

Al Volo
Hanbury Street
www.alvolo.co.uk

Sunday Up Market

Sunday Up Market is the coolest market of the moment.

During the week it’s just a car park, but on Sundays it’s full of people, with more than 200 stalls over two floors selling clothes, jewellery, food and music.

Sunday Up Market
www.sundayupmarket.co.uk

The Golden Heart

Strategically placed on the intersection of Commercial Street and Hanbury Street and just oppositeSpitalfieldsMarket, The Golden Heart is the perfect place from which to watch everything going on in the area and to have a rest.

However it’s fair to say that the regular locals have gradually gone to be replaced with groups of young people visiting the neighbourhood.

The Golden Heart
84 Commercial Street

Spitalfield Market

Located in a beautiful Victorian building, Spitalfields Market started trading in 1682 and is open every day from 11:00 to 15:00 and on Sundays from 09:30 to 17:30.

It used to be the preferred location for lovers of vintage clothing, a place where urban fashion can be picked up for a good price, but lately it has become a tourist attraction with shops and restaurants. The young designers’ stalls have moved to the Old Truman Brewery in the Sunday Up Market.

In any case, even if you don’t plan on buying anything, it’s still worth the visit.

Ten Bells

The Ten Bells is the living history of the famous Jack the Ripper. The pub is on the corner of Commercial Street and Fournier Street in Spitalfields. Although the façade has changed, the interior has remained much the same as it did when it used to be frequented by Jack the Ripper. On one of the walls of the pub a beautiful mosaic has been conserved: “Spitalfields in the Olden Time” that is definitely worth a visit. We’d also like to point out that the pub has a wall displaying a list of the victims, as well as press cuttings, of the notorious Ripper. ..

Ten Bells
84 Commercial Street

Christ Church Spitalfields

A pretty Anglican church is situated close to the famous Spitalfields Market. It was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of the Royal architectChristopher Wren, who reconstructed the English capital after the Great Fire of London.

Christ Church Spitalfields
84 Commercial St
www.christchurchspitalfields.org

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Marseille, pure French Provedance

Dreaming of a holiday that mixes fun, culture and relaxation? Marseille, in the south of France, is for you. Its benign climate, situation and special light have been inspiration for celebrated artists, including Braque, Cézanne, Derain and Marquet. Founded by the Greeks, it is one of the oldest cities in Europe and the second oldest in France. (It is also the second most populated French city). Its rich history and great number of monuments, beauty spots and museums have put Marseille on the international tourism map.

Marseille is the third largest port in Europe (after Rotterdam and Antwerp). This constant flow of ships and passengers from across the world has lent it a cultural mix that is palpable in its people, neighbourhoods and architecture, making an all-together cosmopolitan city.

Five days is about the right amount of time to spend here. The best bet is to divide your itinerary into different areas. Public transport is very good; you can get around in the metro, by bus and by ferry. The best way to do this is with a Citty Pass; it's cheap and will also get you into museums and out to the islands.

Booking a well-situated hotel is key to navigating your way around this marvellous city. The Beauvau Marsella Viejo Puerto is perfect. It has stellar service and is located a few steps from the Vieux Port metro station – a major hub. You'll find masses of stalls selling oysters and whatever else you can think lining the streets that lead down to the port – at really great prices.

In the same area there are dozens of restaurants where you can eat exquisite fresh fish or a superb bouillabaisse. Here are two that are recommended:

Une Table au Sud: This restaurant has fantastic views over the port and offers modern, creative, mouth-watering cuisine. Standout dishes include a chestnut and sea urchin soup.

Le Miramar: They say it’s the best restaurant in the city to try bouillabaisse. Take that onboard and find out for yourself.

An easy stroll through the port leads you to the Fort Saint-Jean. Constructed during the reign of Louis XIV, it is also the location of the MuCEM; the first major museum dedicated to Mediterranean civilisations. Its wide focus spans anthropology, history, archaeology, art history and contemporary art. The museum is housed over three sites in different parts of Fort Saint- Jean, connected via a pleasant walkway through a Mediterranean garden.

Another pathway, starting from the Royal Gate, takes you to the neighbourhood of La Panier and the Saint-Laurent church. Despite its shady past, this neighbourhood is today a mix of traditional streets and squares with new design boutiques, restaurants and museums – all in all lending it a decidedly bohemian air. A must see.

Cours Julien is another interesting neighbourhood. A garden has taken over the centre of its main square that also hosts fashion boutiques, theatres and terrace cafes. Rues Bussy l'Indien, Pastoret and Vian stand out for their alternative vibe, with various clubs, cafes and more shops. Take note of the street art!

Marseilles geographical situation makes it a perfect base for outings in a boat. From Vieux Port you can take one of the urban ferries. One excursion you shouldn't let slip by is to Chateau d'If, where you can still see the hole that one of one of the prisoners dug in the cell wall. He was the inspiration for 'The Count of Montecristo', the classic novel by Alexander Dumas.

From here you can continue on to visit the Frioul Islands where you can spend the afternoon visiting various inlets, beaches and sandy creeks – the perfect way to end the day. It's a place of freedom and total relaxation.

Two must-sees are the Basilque Notre-Dame de la Garde and the Chateau Longchamp. The first is the city's architectonic emblem. Situated up on the hill, it affords marvellous 360º views, watching over sailors, fishermen and all the people of Marseille. Its Roman-Byzantine style is a perfect example of the large-scale buildings Napoleon III imposed in Marseille. To get there, take the bus from Vieux Port. The palace, dating from 1869, commemorates the canalization of the Durance River to Marseille. It also houses the Museum of Fine Arts and the Natural History Museum as well as a botanical garden. Ad hoc street markets are all over the city, selling fruit, fish, and clothing and brick a brac. Dive in and rub shoulders with the locals – you are bound to find something unique to take back home!

Don't leave without discovering the famous Marsella soap. It history goes back to the 16th century. Find out more in one of the company's seven factories.

The city's tourist office is situated very close to Vieux Port. Pick up a City Pass here as well as plenty more info on what to do in Marseille.

So, what are you waiting for? Reserve a Vueling flight to this magnificent city here!

Text: Tensi Sánchez de www.actitudesmgz.com
Photography: Fernando Sanz

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Barcelona on five senses

By Mariana Calleja from TravelThirst

Barcelona has given me almost four years of experience. Experience that came along with a dream, and how not to love a place you once dreamt of and next thing you are standing right there?

I have had the chance the embrace this place, to have it all for myself and to sense it from head to bottom, from mountain to coast line, from iconic places to hidden undiscovered corners.

So please let me take you into these gothic old streets, into the most perfectly built neighborhood and into some greatest spots in history, in art, in culture, in food-n-drinks tasting. Let me get you inspired into sensing this unique city we all have heard about: Barcelona!

See

Definitely a great quantity of things to see in this city, but you all know where to find the usual stuff, right? So let’s not stop here and let’s keep moving forward to what you won’t find on a common travel guide.

Montjuic Magic Fountain: the best and most beautiful free water fountains we have seen in our travels, these fountains in Barcelona are not to be missed. With a winter schedule (Friday-Saturday 7-9pm) and a summer schedule (Thursday-Sunday 9-11:30 pm) you will have an endless opportunity to enjoy this show. Music, colors and water become alive all together in a beautiful set of artistic display.

View of Barcelona from down under the W Hotel. Right on the corner of Barceloneta Beach, you will find a surprising spot, not as touristy as one might think, with plenty of coffee places in order to enjoy the afternoon, winter or summer. Even a mojito if you please on a new “chiringuito” or beach bar for quite a low budget. Feel free to walk, rent a bike, roller skates, or even take the bus. Just make sure you don’t miss this secret spot. One city view you won’t get from anywhere else in town!

Castellers: traditional and local human towers! You read that right. Declared as a Human Heritage, this local activity has it all for your sight: from amazement to stressful balancing moments. Every neighborhood and every town has its own group of castellers. They don’t perform daily or weekly, but you can definitely search or ask for the next presentation closest to you. And it is always a free attraction, so write this down as I write and you read.

Smell

Unfortunately, salty-sea smell is not an option here. Despite being such a salty sea, the Mediterranean Sea has not a great or strong sea-like aroma. But it doesn’t really matter when you have such a city right on its side.

Barcelona has appeared to my nose as a fantastic lab many times, even for all senses. But I have found out it is mostly about the scents on the street. Like what? Well, bakery and chocolate shops. Not to leave fresh fruit markets aside of course. But to me, bakeries, pastry shops and bread shops are the winners to my scent-album! So many of them throughout town and all of them so worth even a little taste, not only a deep smell.

Besides, it’s quite cheap! So don’t hesitate on trying any good “patisserie” whenever in town (even better if hidden from main touristy streets or areas). Sit down peacefully or why not, take away to that little corner at the beach. It will all be worthwhile and you will enjoy the moment forever.

Also, do not doubt indulging your nose with some fresh market scents. It is all about juicy fruits, jumping next to the fish section with quite a different smell. Then hitting the isle down to the sausages and meat stands, just to finally and happily end up at the chocolates stand. Open your lungs, close your eyes, grab your purse and take a long deep breath right there. Your soul will regain energy afterwards.

Listen

Traditional castellers’ music: a small band particularly known as “cobla” are the ones in charge of playing some air instruments with one unique kind of sound, as part of their human towers ritual, setting the right time and rhythm of the ascending. Nothing like we have heard before. It certainly gives some emotion and feeling to the whole event. Once more, castellers and their music is worth mentioning here. As a free activity, you can put two senses to good practice while enjoying this incredible performance.

Sagrada Familia’s bells during christmas time: no words needed in order to describe this one. As simple as it sounds. So if you are around during christmas time, make sure you go visit and sit somewhere around this church, preferably on the night of December 24th. Then just sit and let go into an overwhelming experience as the church become alive to the sounds of bells playing the Holy Night.

Taste

Food and flavors in Barcelona is all about one thing: Traditions. And with these, let me give you a few but tasty tips on what to taste, depending on the season you are visiting the city. Don’t worry, there is something for everyone!

Calçots: a winter onion-like dish full of fun! Get your glove and bib ready to dip these onions into the most exquisite homemade special sauce.
Fideua: a paella made with tiny noodles and served with alioli. Couldn’t get better!
Cava with lemon sorbet: happy new years! Unbelievable fresh and classy drink, easy to make and ready to welcome a new year full of adventures.
Panellets: Easter week time brings some delightful little pastries of several kinds. They are called panellets and are sold by weight. Go by a pastry shop and buy one of each, then head to the nearest park and enjoy with a nice cuppa coffee or even some more Cava. Cozy, warm and sweet flavor.

Feel

The toughest sense to discover and describe, but also the most memorable one within our sensory album of life.

Barcelona is the heart and home for Modernism, which brings a special detail to be touched. Something you will barely find in any other place in the world.

Trencadís: this is the name for the very popular technique by Antonio Gaudi, the one with lots of ceramic pieces, with tons of colors and images, even hidden messages. This technique makes a unique surface, which can be found extensively at the Parc Guell mainly, but also at many other of Gaudi’s art, such as Casa Batlló and La Pedrera.

San Jordi’s City Door: a magnificent historical monument at the the Crown’s Archive building right in the heart of the Gothic neighborhood. Made with bronze in 1975 by Josep Maria Subirachs, this huge door gives a great overview to the history of Catalonia, all within the Sant Jordi legend: a saint who defeated a dragon in order to save an entire town and a princess. Its greatest figures and irregular surface lets people enjoy some learning while touching history itself.

After these experiences, you will certainly have some great stories to share and many memories through the senses that will make you want to come back to Barcelona.

By Mariana Calleja from TravelThirst

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Rome’s Other Churches

They call it “The Eternal City”. The fact is that Rome still dwells in a historical limbo typified by a coexistence between Etruscan, Roman, medieval, Renaissance, Baroque and even Fascist vestiges. In this cradle of our civilisation and hub of the Catholic religion, monuments like the Colosseum, the Vatican, the Forum and the Pantheon are visited by millions of tourists each year. But, other jewels known to far fewer visitors also lie concealed in this great city. We roamed its most emblematic quarters and discovered the twelve most spectacular yet little known churches.

Trastevere

Here, tourists and locals jostle about one of the city’s liveliest, most characterful quarters. Here, too, stand some of Rome’s most fascinating medieval churches, in particular, Santa Maria in Trastevere.

1. San Francesco a Ripa – Bernini’s Other Ecstasy
Piazza di San Francesco d’Assisi 88

Possibly Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s best known work is the Ecstasy of St  Theresa. However, what many are unaware of is that a church in the very heart of Trastevere conceals another ecstasy by this artist. The church in question is San Francesco a Ripa, home to his Blessed Ludovica Albertoni, a masterpiece in marble which you are sure to enthuse over. The church is also famous for having been built on the former site of a hospice where St Francis of Assisi lodged during his visit to Rome in 1219. Indeed, his crucifix and stone pillow can still be seen in the cell where he stayed.

Piazza Navona

The Piazza Navona, one of the great works of the Italian Baroque, is built on the site of the Stadium of Domitian, hence its oval shape. The area features myriad vestiges of Borromini, Bramante and Bernini in the guise of fountains, churches and palaces. With a lively atmosphere during the day and by night, this is one of the best spots to take the city’s pulse.

2. Santa Maria della Pace – Bramante’s Proportions
Vicolo del Arco della Pace 5

This superb church was designed by Baccio Pontelli in the second half of the 15th century and includes a cloister by Bramante from the year 1504. Here, the great Italian architect applied the rules of classical proportions to generate an effect of spaciousness in an otherwise small area.

Campo de’ Fiori

The streets in this quarter have preserved their medieval atmosphere and sited here is one of Europe’s most famous open-air markets. It was a centre of the Renaissance, featuring buildings such as the Palazzo Farnese and Palazza Spada. Wandering through its streets, we came across the colourful Jewish ghetto, the Roman Theatre of Marcellus and the surprising Portico of Octavia.

3. San Girolamo della Carità – A Baroque Festival
Via de Monserrato 62A

This church is located near the church of Santa Maria in Monserrato degli Spagnoli, on the spot where St Filippo Neri lived. It houses the stunning Spada Chapel, which is well worth the visit. Designed by Borromini, it is an ode to the Italian Baroque, with statues, marble- and jasper-veined panels and all kinds of gilt decoration simulating curtains and flowered damasks.

Esquilino

Esquilino is the largest of Rome’s seven hills and a quarter which still retains much of its original character. Roman vestiges are in evidence in many spots, noteworthy being the ruins of the Baths of Trajan and the Domus Aurea. However, if it stands our for anything it is for its numerous churches, some of them built in private homes.

4. Santa Bibiana
Via Giovanni Giolitti 154

The simple facade of Santa Bibiana was Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s first architectural commission. The building houses the remains of St Bibiana, who was scourged to death with leaded thongs in Roman times. The small pillar inside the church is believed to be where the martyr was tortured. The interior also features a marble statue of the saint sculpted by Bernini himself. Interestingly enough, it was the first clothed figure sculpted by the Neapolitan artist.

5. Santa Prassede
Via di Santa Prassede 9A

The Basilica of Saint Praxedes, a celebrated gem of Byzantine art, houses one of Rome’s most interesting mosaic ensembles. The church was commissioned by Pope Paschal I in the 9th century, on the site of a former oratory from the 2nd century. While it has undergone alterations, its original medieval structure is still visible. The central nave contains a well where tradition has it St Praxedes buried the remains of 2,000 martyrs. Pride of place, however, goes to the beautiful mosaics, depicting saints, animals, palm trees and poppies. The church also contains part of a column, brought here from Jerusalem, to which Christ is said to have been tied and scourged.

Lateran

The Lateran Palace, the papal residence during the Middle Ages, stands next to one of the most spectacular churches in Rome, St John in Lateran.

6. Scala Santa and Sancta Sanctorum
Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 14

Many sightseers overlook this spot when visiting St John in Lateran. The building, designed by Domenico Fontana, houses the two remaining vestiges of the Lateran Palace, namely the Scala Santa and Sancta Sanctorum. The former is a set of 28 steps where, according to tradition, Christ walked up to Pilate’s residence before being tried. They were brought from Jerusalem by the mother of Emperor Constantine, St Helena, and ordered to be placed in this spot by Pope Sixtus V  when the Lateran Palace was destroyed. The steps are considered holy and an object of pilgrimage, so that visitors are only allowed to ascend them on their knees. At the top of the stairs is the Sancta Sanctorum containing a painting which was allegedly executed by St Luke with the assistance of an angel.

7. Santa Croce in Gerusalemme
Piazza di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme

While now very different in appearance, the original church was founded by St Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great, in the year 320 AD. It houses relics from Christ’s Crucifixion. The crypt contains a statue of St Helena which had originally been unearthed in the Ostia archaeological site. The tomb of Cardinal Quiñones, confessor to Charles I of Spain, was sculpted by Sansovino.

8. Santo Stefano Rotondo
Via di Santo Stefano Rotondo 7

St Stephen in the Round is one of the oldest churches in Rome. Founded in 468 AD, its striking circular ground plan is difficult to forget. The four side chapels house part of the original medieval frescoes, while the standout feature is a 7th-century mosaic depicting Jesus with SS Felician and Primus.

Caracalla

The spectacular ruins of the Baths of Caracalla have long been the main attraction in this part of the city which is ideal for strolling in. What in Roman times was a residential area now boasts many green zones and affords views of the Roman wall and the Porta San Sebastiano, one of Rome’s best preserved gates.

9. Santa Maria in Domnica
Piazza della Navicella 2

Dating from the 7th century, the church is thought to have been built on the site of a former fire station. It is well worth getting to this eminently untouristic church to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere. Don’t miss the stunning mosaic in the apse, commissioned by Pope Paschal I in the 9th century.

10. San Giorgio in Velabro
Via Velabro 19

Primitive in appearance, this church was inexplicably targeted by a terrorist attack in July 1993 which destroyed the portico and tympanum. They were restored and no signs of the attack remain. Noteworthy in the apse is a fresco by Pietro Cavallini. A prominent feature in one corner of the facade is the Arco degli Argentari, dedicated to Emperor Septimius Severus in 204 AD.

11. Santa Sabina
Piazza Pietro d’Illiria 1

Like San Giorgio in Velabro, this is one of Rome’s churches that best preserves the Christian basilica layout. It features a pulpit, choir and 16th-century throne, while the windows illuminate a nave graced with exquisite Corinthian columns. The doors in the side portico, with carvings depicting Biblical scenes, date from the 5th century.

Environs of Rome

The catacombs, Via Appia Antica and Borghese Gallery are located beyond the city centre.

12. Santa Costanza
Via Nomentana 349

Inspired by circular-plan churches such as the Palatine Chapel at Aachen, or Santo Stefano Rotondo, Santa Costanza is one of the early Christian jewels. Originally built as a mausoleum for the daughters of Constantine the Great, the 12 columns supporting the vault are a veritable feat of engineering. A replica of the Costanza sarcophagus housed in the Vatican Museum is set in a niche.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

 

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