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A route through Bilbao

The route starts in the Siete Calles area, in the pedestrian streets that alternate the more classical shops with the more innovative and brimming with bars and restaurants to sample the very best in Basque cuisine.

This metropolitan area has an outstanding architectural and monumental heritage, with civil and religious buildings of great interest and where the bars and shops truly come to life. El Arenal of Bilbao is the best Gateway to the city’s Old Town and its bridge, a watchtower over the Teatro Arriaga, a great centre of Bilbao’s cultural life, built by Joaquín Rucoba and Octabio de Toledo, who took inspiration from the Paris Opera in its creation.

We enter the Siete Calles through the Arenal and, at 2 calle Fueros, we encounter Lautxo, a small shop specialising in all types of take-away croquettes and cannelloni. The huge selection of croquettes includes Basque style cod, prawn and mushroom, baby squid cooked with onion, and chorizo, and the cannelloni delicacies include leek, Idizabal and mushroom.

To eat we were recommended to try Kasko, a colourful restaurant with oak columns offering modern cuisine combined with Basque products. It offers menus to suit all budgets.

Strolling around the Siete Calles you will come across interesting shops such as lu:la, in plaza Santiago s/n, which sells beautiful shoes, the latest fashion and one-off accessories. Another of the shops that caught our attention in the Old Quarters was La Casa del Yogur of Bilbao. Located at 2 calle Víctor, this outlet specialises in dairy products from Cantabria made from 100% natural yoghurt.

The Plaza Nueva, which is built in a defined neoclassical style and with 64 arches supported by Grecian columns, is teeming with bars. We loved Víctor Montes, with its huge array of pinchos (brochettes), but you can lose yourself in any of the many lively, popular bars and establishments in the square.

At number 2 Calzadas de Mallona, you will find the Archaeological Museum which houses the Basque Country history in a chronological route from prehistoric ages to the modern age.

Climbing the 213 steps of Mallona which start in the plaza Unamuno, takes you to the Basílica de Begoña, passing by the cemetery of Mallona. This stretch forms part of the Route of St. James via the Costal Route. From the viewing point you have the best views over the old quarters. And for the lazy, you have the alternative of going up in the Begoña lift.

Most noteworthy in the Etxebarria Park is the old chimney which still remains intact on the Aceros Echevarría steel factory. This is due to the fact that many of the industries were located inside the city.

Going down, you arrive at the river where you will find the Mercadillo del Nervión, a curious shop selling second hand items. Antiques, rarities and a little bit of everything. If you are a lover of vintage clothing, you must visit the market on calle Dos de Mayo which takes place on the first Saturday of every month. Here you can find second hand and new clothes, old vinyl, vintage furniture and much more.

Bordering the estuary we come across Zubizuri, which means “white bridge” in the Basque language, it is also known as the Campo de Volantín Pedestrian Bridge or Calatrava Bridge, which has become the new symbol of Bilbao.

Continuing along the path through Volatinse country you come to the plaza del Funicular which will take you up to Artxanda. The funicular railway was built in 1913 and during the journey which lasts a few minutes, you will pass through Ciudad Jardín (Garden City), an area of pretty houses with beautifully kept gardens.

A Artxanda has always been considered the lungs of Bilbao because the town was formerly the location of a lot of industry and the air wasn’t as clean as it is nowadays.

Once you are up there you will come across a park with grass, a children’s play area and a picnic area where the Bilbao inhabitants go up to sunbathe and relax after having lunch in one of the rotisseries. There are three good restaurants to eat in, the Sidrería Artxanza cider bar with a menu of cod tortilla. fried cod and drink for €28, the restaurante Txacolí with typical Bilbao cuisine and the restaurante Antón.

 Picture by kurtxio

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10 Reasons to Fall in Love with the Island

Here are the ten main reasons why anyone will fall hopelessly in love with this marvellous island.

1. The Weather As One’s Ally

Gran Canaria is blessed with a privileged climate, on account of its geographical location and the generous contribution of the trade winds. These are some of the contributing factors to the mean annual temperature of 24°C. The island’s landscape ensures a mild atmosphere, which tempers the four seasons of the year.

2. A Spectacular Natural Setting

Concerted endeavours to preserve its natural heritage have made Gran Canaria a place where time seems to stand still. Virtually half of its surface area is protected, an ongoing legacy which ensures the exceptional purity of the environment here. And, best of all is that its whole area is accessible to visitors. The most striking feature of this magnificent natural setting is its volcanic origins.

3. The Beaches are the Island’s DNA

Gran Canaria boasts 60 kilometres of beaches on a coastline stretching for 236 kilometres. Its seaboard has been the leisure resort of choice for generations of islanders who are only too happy to share it with visitors. The variety is endless and there is something for all tastes, from the vast carpets of golden sand in the south to the secluded coves in the north. One of the advantages of Gran Canaria is that its beaches can be enjoyed most of the year around.

4. A Sporting Paradise

One of the pluses of having such a mild climate all year around, and a privileged natural setting, is that Gran Canaria is an ideal enclave for doing open-air sports. Hiking enthusiasts are pampered by a network of trails that cover the whole island, and it is also a paradise for lovers of cycling, which is undoubtedly one of the best ways to enjoy the island’s scenery. Those who prefer the sea can choose from a broad selection of activities. Surfing, windsurfing and kite-surfing, if what you’re after is an adrenalin rush, and sports fishing or diving if you’re eager to explore the sea floor.

5. A Place for All the Family

Gran Canaria is the ideal destination for family tourism. Either for couples or families with children, the island offers all types of attractions which will make your stay an unforgettable experience.

6. A Land of History, Culture and Leisure

The pre-Hispanic history of Gran Canaria still pervades the island, six centuries after the Castilian conquest. Its aboriginal past is jealously guarded in archaeological parks and museums, which also mirror the cultural fusion that characterises the local population. Christopher Columbus stopped over at Gran Canaria on his way to the New World, bequeathing a legacy of which vestiges still survive. As for leisure and culture, the island’s Carnival is one of its landmark festivals, which brings out the affable, playful side of the islanders.

7. An Exquisite Sea of Flavours

Every corner of Gran Canaria offers delicious flavours, many of them part of a rich, heterogeneous culinary tradition. The island boasts the only coffee plantations in Europe, and it is also proud of its orchards and market gardens, its juicy confectionery and its iconic rum, distilled in the oldest cellar on the continent.

8. Take a Well Earned Break

Gran Canaria is the perfect destination for relaxing and breaking with your daily routine and the stress of work. Taking care of ourselves is one of our priorities and you will come across many a spa resort and wellness centre on Gran Canaria.

9. An Open, Modern Capital

The historic centre of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, based in the districts of Vegueta and Triana, is well worth touring leisurely to see its colonial-style buildings. Puerto de la Luz is one of its major hubs of trade activity and, a short distance away, on the far side of La Isleta isthmus, a prominent meeting point is Las Canteras, one of the finest urban beaches in the world. There is a lot of entertainment on offer in the capital, the product of its modern, cosmopolitan essence.

10. Villages with Charm

Agaete, Mogán, Teror and Tejeda are but a few of the enclaves worth exploring to discover the spirit of the island. Its friendly people and rich traditions make visitors feel at home. Whether on the heights, the midlands or the coast, each locality makes its harmonious contribution in the projection of our identity traits.

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Images by Patronato Turismo Gran Canaria

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Beyond the Alhambra Moorish Granada

The Alhambra is Granada’s landmark par excellence – no one disputes that. That’s where we usually fix our gaze, be it from one of the viewpoints or cármenes thronging the Albaicín quarter, or when scouting its interior and being carried away by the marvels it holds, particularly the gorgeous ornamentation of its Nasrid palaces. While the Alhambra is the iconic symbol of the Moorish presence in the city, it is not the only vestige in Granada that points to its rich cultural heritage. The following routes are designed to encourage you to venture along some of the city’s streets in search of the Moorish footprint, which has survived the passage of time.

Route 1. The Albaicín

Separated from the Alhambra by the river Darro, and one of the best vantage points from which to view that monument, the Albaicín quarter reveals traces of its Arab past wherever you wander. Its narrow, winding streets, where you are certain to get lost in search of the famous San Nicolás viewpoint, contain traces which clearly reflect what was once the Medina of Granada. The cisterns, tasked with storing and distributing water throughout the city, which you will come across all over the Albaicín, are the first signs of the quarter’s Moorish legacy. Our first stop on this itinerary is the Carrera del Darro, opposite Cadí Bridge, the site of a small gem known as El Bañuelo. These 11th-century Arab baths are made up of three rooms which still preserve their original vaulting with octagonal and star-shaped skylights, as well as columns with Roman, Visigoth and caliphal capitals.

Just a stone’s throw from El Bañuelo, in the Portería de la Concepción, stands the Casa de Zafra, regarded as one of the finest examples of Nasrid domestic architecture. Built in the 14th century and now reconditioned as the Centro de Interpretación del Albaicín, its interior still features remains of the original murals.

Linking up with the Carrera del Darro again and continuing along the Paseo de los Tristes as far as Calle Horno de Oro you will come across the Casa Horno de Oro, built in the late-15th century. Yet another example of the architectural harmony associated with these homes, characterised by a rectangular patio with a cistern, with the rooms arranged around the lower side of it. The next stop on our tour is the road to Sacromonte, up the hill known as Cuesta del Chapiz, the site of the Casa del Chapiz, a Moorish house now converted into the School of Arabic Studies, the gardens of which afford magnificent views of the Alhambra.

Further up the Cuesta del Chapiz you come to Plaza del Salvador, where the High Mosque of the Albaicín once stood, the site of which is now taken up by the Church of El Salvador. Built in Mudéjar style, preserved in its interior is what was once the patio of ablutions of the former mosque, accessed from Calle Panaderos. A prominent feature of this peaceful backwater are the white-painted horseshoe arches, which stand out against the greenery of the lemon trees adorning the patio.

Having got this far, we recommend you take the opportunity to visit a classic landmark – the Mirador de San Nicolás (San Nicolás viewpoint). Enjoy the amazing views of the Alhambra, take a selfie for posterity and recoup your strength for the last stop on this itinerary, Dar-al-Horra Palace. Built in the 15th century on the site of a former, 11th-century Zirid palace, this was the retreat of the sultana Aisha and mother of Boabdil, the last king of Granada. This palace encapsulates the essence of Nasrid palaces, comprising a central patio with a water well around which the rooms are arranged, as are two porticoes along the shorter sides. Noteworthy is the north portico, boasting a viewing platform with splendid vistas of the Cerro de San Cristóbal.

We recommend rounding off the itinerary by having a cup of tea in one of the numerous tea shops studding the Calle Calderería Nueva. You will be forgiven if you get transported to some Arab city as you stroll along this street.

Route 2. “New Granada”

The neighbourhood known as Nueva Granada is laid out around Granada Cathedral, built on the site of the former High Mosque. The route starts at the Corral del Carbón, once a hostel for merchants which comprised an area for depositing their wares, rooms for resting in and stables for tethering their horses. From there we head to the Alcaicería, the former silk exchange, which still bears some resemblance to an Arab souq, despite having been gutted by fire in 1843 and rebuilt in romantic, neo-Arab style. It has now been reconditioned mainly as a venue for selling souvenirs of Granada.

Book your Vueling to Granada and venture along its streets in search of the city’s Moorish past.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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Top 5 Gastronomy Or Why Lanzarote Is An Indie Destination

“The moon? Mars? Iceland? No, it’s Lanzarote!” You will often catch yourself thinking this as you roam this fascinating island along roads traversing uninhabited places, without anyone for miles around you. You will also wonder what it might be like to live in this pleasant land of disturbing beauty, surrounded everywhere by raging Atlantic waves relished by surfers from all over the world.

Tracts of lunar land alternating with stretches of desert, and others carpeted in vegetation, where palm trees stand side by side with lava fields, wild beaches, small fishing villages and, of course, the ubiquitous seaside developments catering to mass tourism.

And, as you contemplate the impossible patterns forged by centuries of intermittent lava flows in the rocks, and you hear the roar of the waves while munching on papas con mojo,you regret that the incomprehensible tourist dynamic should have earmarked Lanzarote as the almost exclusive preserve of family holidaymakers and honeymoon couples. That is when you wish Lanzarote would bare its Indie streak, without renouncing its conventionalism, and that we “Peninsulars” – that is what we have been dubbed by the witty locals – would make the trip at least once a year to this island overflowing with charm, which also has its less predictable side. And this chart of rankings proves it.

1- El Chupadero. Its owner, Barbara, is a former model and erstwhile German New Yorker. One day in the eighties, she came across a derelict building in the middle of the island and fell prey to its charm. She decided to refurbish it with her own hands and settle there permanently, along with her two small children. That was how this restaurant was born, unwittingly hipster to the marrow, where every corner is a marvel of good taste and the menu the epitome of indigenous cuisine based on excellent produce.

2- Bar Stop. At the other end of the island, in Yaiza, lies this legendary establishment, which dates from 1890. It has a homely feel and more than reasonable prices and appears not to have changed one jot since its beginnings. Bar Stop is a place where you can enjoy deliciously rustic home cooking any time of the day while you eavesdrop on the locals chattering away – they also seem to have come fresh from 1890, brimming with friendliness and hospitality.

Plaza Ntra. Sra. de los Remedios (Yaiza).

3- La Lupe. Going to Lanzarote only to end up eating in a Mexican, considering the oodles of papas arrugadas that are shouting to get our attention, may seem rather reckless. But, once you’ve tried La Lupe’s delicatessen and sense that it comes hot from the heart of Mexico City, you realise that you have found an exceptional Mexican cuisine. Carefully crafted tacos, enchiladas, moles and other delicacies in a highly recommendable Mexican restaurant. Ideal for dining to a Tequila rhythm before lighting up the night at Noise.

4- NoiseClub Lanzarote. This is what we might term Lanzarote’s underground concert venue, whose owners fight daily to create an Indie atmosphere in the very heart of the capital, Arrecife. Noise is a small, inviting venue featuring live performances on Friday and Saturday after 11.30 p.m. Performers are often musicians from the Peninsula, in line with the open-minded approach of the artificers of Noise and their urge to bring out a less conventional side of Lanzarote. Performances are variegated, ranging from funk to techno.

5- Lagomar. One of the world’s greats who succumbed to the charms of Lanzarote was Omar Sharif. Indeed, he ended up building a formidable house at the seaside, by way of a large, stunningly beautiful fortress, now turned into a restaurant and wine bar. Every nook in the maze-like interior of Lagomar is a fiesta, from the elegant dining-room to the small bar counter surrounded by armchairs, the beautiful gardens and the pool crowning the patio. It is the ideal spot for having a well crafted glass of wine and for enjoying, any day of the week, the pleasant temperatures of Lanzarote and the anachronistic aura – in the best sense of the word – which still pervades this legendary precinct.

Where to Sleep

Sands Beach Lanzarote: This stunning, four-star resort on the Costa Teguise, just 15 minutes from the airport, will play havoc with those who have difficulty getting their bearings. Six huge swimming pools – one of which is heated – a spa, gaming hall, supermarket, activities at all hours and enormous rooms with a kitchen make up this complex with its private beach, where guests are treated like kings and prices are actually affordable.

 

Text and photos by Laura Conde of Gastronomistas

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