Vini and Panini in Florence
The capital of Tuscany is a striking city packed with appeal which is well worth spending a few days in. Awaiting you, among other inducements, is Michelangelo’s famed David, Spring by Botticelli, the Ponte Vecchio, the famous dome of Santa Maria del Fiore and the Piazza della Signoria with its bold Perseus by Cellini. A highly manageable city which lends itself to strolling about and can be enjoyed both day and night – the latter has a charm of its own. And, of course, it has to be tasted and savoured.
Wine is part of the city’s DNA, as is art, and you are duty bound to stop and have a drink in any of the salumerie (delicatessens) or wine bars, where they also offer boards of local sausage, cheeses and panini, which spice up the drink experience even more. There are loads of them but, to help put you on the right track, here are some recommendations:
Ino
Hidden in the back streets near the Uffizi gallery is this eatery – a must-visit – run by chef Alessandro Frassica, who you will see behind the bar counter or dancing in front of it. Panini made on the spot, with a long list of more or less classic options. When we were there we wolfed down one with bresaola (a cured beef), ricotta and zucchini, and another with mortadella e salsa al tartufo (mortadella and truffle sauce) which tasted divine. The food is freshly cut, the bread is good, a great atmosphere and a very trendy ambience. Needless to say, you have to wash down your panini with two glasses of local red wine.
Alimentari Uffizi
A delightful store with just three tables where you can purchase wine and drink it on the spot for an uncorking surcharge. To go with it –tastings of cheese, sausage, olives and a delicious homemade sobresada.Behind the counter is the helpful Alessandro, ready to guide you successfully through your culinary choice. Pure produce.
All’Antico Vinaio
One of Florence’s oldest wine bars, now run by a group of youngsters who have set a new seal on the business while maintaining its centuries-old essence. Chalked up on the blackboards are a host of panini options with seasonal ingredients which you can combine at will. Don’t let the queue in this eatery put you off, as it is well worth the wait. Order some wine and enjoy – it is sited in one of the liveliest streets for “wine crawling”. Apart from wine, they also have anosteriaif you prefer to eat at a table.
A Special Dinner at Il Santo Bevitore
We left the panini behind – but not the wine – and sat down in a restaurant offering Italian specialities in order to taste regional Florentine cuisine. And we made the right choice! A young, lively atmosphere and a cuisine that soars above the Italian standards we are used to, as well as a wine list with hundreds of Italian varieties. We followed their recommendations and ended up with a table full of terrina di fegatini de pollo (a tasty, typical Tuscan paté on a bun), tagliatelle alle castagne and risotto ai porcini (field mushrooms). The menu changes with the season and their wine bar on the same street is handy for whetting one’s appetite.
Shopping at Il Mercato Centrale and Sant’Ambrogio
So, we went shopping. The Central Market, located in the heart of San Lorenzo, is the most important market in Florence. Their display ranges from pastas of all types, cheeses, wines and olive oil to fresh delicatessen, fruit and vegetables, as in any market. One of their main draws is the food area on the first floor, influenced by street-food culture, where you can find all kinds of snacks. Another must-visit venue that will delight even the most seasoned foodies is the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio. Located on the Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti, it features both inside and outside stalls where locals crowd around in search of the best titbits. Genuine and lively – before you leave, make sure you buy at least some olives and a birra (beer). Have a seat in the surrounding area and soak up the atmosphere. And, while you’re at it, head for the Trippiao Pollini street stall and pluck up the courage to try their tripe sandwich – you won’t regret it!
Let yourself get carried away by the flavours of Florence – check out your Vueling here.
Text and photos by Silvia Artaza of Gastronomistas.com
Eating Out Within Dubrovnik's City Walls – Part I
Dubrovnik's cuisine may go unnoticed, with all the unbeatable charms of this walled city and its surroundings to compete against. These include the relaxing and beautiful island of Lokrum, or the idyllic, forested wine area of Konavle, some 40 minutes south of the city. But many restaurants here go far beyond standard fast food or burgers and offer high-quality Mediterranean food, and often generous portions at tourist-friendly prices. The following are the eateries we have tried out for you.
Tinel
Tiny bar in Antuninska Street. Its terrace has a few tables, but is mainly spread out on a street staircase – a common phenomenon in Dubrovnik cafés. People have their coffee while passers-by walk up or down the steps beside them. This bar is frequented by locals and artists attending the Summer Festival.
Skola
Another small and popular establishment, also located in Antuninska Street. Their Dalmatian ham sandwich, Prsut Sir, is the local's favourite – with salty, smoked ham, cheese and lettuce – and has been served here for the last 50 years. Their delicious homemade white bread is served warm, freshly-baked. Salads, sardines and combined dishes are also on the menu.
Proto
First opened in 1886, Protois an institution in the city, with Dubrovnik’s best cooks having learnt their skills here. This calm, majestic terrace located one storey above the street’s bustle has seen the likes of Tom Cruise, Roger Moore, the Game of Thrones stars, Prince Edward and Wallis Simpson. The chef, Bosko Lonac, is in favour of top quality food without too much fuss. His star dishes are fish with salt and egg yolk, drizzled with oil and lemon juice – that melts in your mouth – or cod risotto, where the ingredients aren’t mixed together, but presented separately on the dish; a shrimp and truffle “salad” of extremely high quality and a very interesting octopus ragù, with polenta soaked in cuttlefish ink. For dessert, we recommend rozata, a pudding with a subtle rose liqueur note.
Kopun
A restaurant with history. Its terrace is surrounded by emblematic buildings, such as the only Baroque church in the city – St Ignatius – a seminary, and a Greek and Latin school. History is also present in their cuisine, featuring traditional Croatian dishes, including capon, eaten since the 16th century (Kopun means capon in Croatian). This versatile delicacy can be found in soups, salads, mixed in a mushroom sauce, oven-baked (for six to eight people), and Dubrovnik style – with figs, carrots and gnocchi – a recipe that is featured in the cookbook of Game of Thrones.
Other dishes worth trying are fuzi (macaroni) with prawns and truffles – an Istrian specialty – topped with a langoustine, Slavonian cold meat, lightly smoked and quite spicy, and brodet, a type of fish and seafood stew with polenta and pungent tomato sauce.
Only Croatian wines are served here. We recommend the fresh Malvasija Tezoro white and the powerful Pometred, both from the Konavle wine area. And last, but not least, they are kind enough to provide blankets for the diners.
It opens every day from March to October from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Their daily menu costs 10 euros including a fish, meat or vegetarian main course and dessert, drinks excluded. If you opt to dine à la carte, the average price is 25 to 30 euros, without drinks.
Lero Hotel
When travelling to Dubrovnik, we recommend spending the night here. It’s not too pricey and is a 20-minute walk from the historical centre. Modern and very comfy, albeit lacking any frills, this hotel has several rooms with a sea view and amenities such as a swimming pool, a wellness area and a Wi-Fi connection.
After giving you some tips on Dubrovnik’s best spots to dine in, coming soon is an issue of My Vueling City devoted to the cuisine outside the city walls. Come and experience this marvellous city with us! Check out our flights here.
Text and images by Grastronomistas
more infoEating Out Outside Dubrovnik's City Walls
Here are the best restaurants outside the city’s historic centre. Bon appétit!
Rajski Vrt
This terrace café, located on the marvellous island of Lokrum, with views over a romantic garden and the sea in the background, rests on the wall of a semi-abandoned monastery. The food served here is more suited to recovering from a swim or a walk in the nearby botanic gardens than to culinary pleasure. They offer salads, pizza, hamburgers, pasta, risotto, meat and fish. Pizzas here are large, with a fine crust and delicious (about 10 euros), as are the hearty helpings of grilled, sausage-shaped minced meat –cevapcici– served with excellent chips and a pepper and onion sauce. Watch out for their lemonade, made with real lemons; it is so sour it will make your tongue sweat instantly. This establishment is open from 1 May until mid-October. Average price: 20-25 euros.
Pantarul
Located in the area of Lapad, just over half an hour’s walk from the historic centre of Dubrovnik. This is a very casual restaurant with relaxing background music. One of the owners is the blogger Ana-Marija Bujic, who conquers the national and international public both at her eatery and on the net. They offer traditional Croatian recipes with a modern twist and high-quality, fresh, seasonal products. Tripadvisor gives them full marks. Only one year after opening, it has become one of the city’s trendiest restaurants. In addition to the menu, that changes seasonally, they promote new options such as sharing dishes, which they are trying to implement in the city.
We can recommend the marvellous, delicate and subtle tuna tartar, the very fresh monkfish tempura with green garlic sauce – made with peas – and the traditional and potent mutton with garlic and soparnik – Swiss chard pie with onion and garlic – and aromatic herbs. Average prices, including drinks, are about 30 euros. This is one of the few restaurants in Dubrovnik that opens all year around, closing only for 3 weeks in January. Their opening times are 12 to 4 p.m. and 6 to 10.30 p.m., Tuesday to Sunday. Monday closed.
Konavoski Dvori
This restaurant is located in an idyllic setting in Konavle, a 15-minute drive south of the airport – Dubrovnik being 20 kilometres north of it. The vineyards in this valley, running parallel to the seafront, are the prelude to a landscape of small river waterfalls, canals, forest paths and watermills, one of which is located next to the 16th-century restaurant, still used to grind corn. Konavoski Dvori gives its name to both this beautiful park and the restaurant.
What is served here? Well, traditional Croatian food. Note for Spanish speakers: the menu is also in Spanish. A must-have is the mutton and beef roasted in an iron “hood” and served with potatoes grilled at almost 200 degrees – a typical Dalmatian dish. We also recommend their frog’s legs and river-eel stew –Neretva– and strokli, a kind of baked cheese and cream lasagne, a Slavonian dish. Waiters wear the traditional costume.
Lero Hotel
An interesting and affordable accommodation option in Dubrovnik. Lero Hotel is a 20-minute walk from the historical centre. It is modern – but not fancy – and very comfortable, with all sorts of amenities such as a swimming pool, a wellness area and a Wi-Fi connection. Many of their rooms have a sea view. Great continental breakfast.
Now you have a complete view of Dubrovnik’s cuisine. Don’t forget to read the first part, about the best restaurants within the city walls. Come and enjoy it! Check out our flights here.
Text and images by Gastronomistas
more infoAl final del camino
Camino de Santiago. A trip to experience.
It’s a fact. Everyone who has walked the road to Santiago agrees, the trip leaves marks for life. But, what does Camino de Santiago have to cause such profound impression to everyone? Is it for the people you meet along the way or the amazing landscapes it goes through? Is it, maybe, the reward of arriving by your own merits to the final destination, Santiago, after many days walking?.
The numbers are compelling: every year, more and more pilgrims arrive to Santiago de Compostela, especially on Holy Years. This is a unique experience that combines a sport challenge and seeking for authenticity and discovering your own self. The final goal is to arrive to Santiago, the center of Jacobean tradition and a place of pilgrimage, after the grave of apostle Santiago was found in the 9th century.
The route has become a mass phenomenon, connecting a network of roads with Santiago as the final destination. No other city is so warm welcoming for travelers and pilgrims; this is a meeting point for people from all over the world.
The city. A great monumental complex.
Santiago de Compostela was declared Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 1985, because of its urban beauty, monuments and for keeping the spiritual essence of an apostolic sanctuary.
The city combines perfectly tradition and modernity, in a great monumental complex. The Obradoiro square, which welcomes thousands of pilgrims, is a good example of how the past and the future coexist here, hand-in-hand. Taking a look around the square we can discover many different architectonic styles from buildings that were built during over 700 years on the making. The people look from the Cathedral to the Hostal dos Reis Católicos or from the Colexio de San Xerome to the Pazo de Raxoi, headquarters for the city council.
Along to the abundant green areas, many urban parks and forests surrounding the city, Santiago is a magic and charming place to visit.
For the food lovers.
Whether you choose a good and economic three-course menu, which recovers the energy of the pilgrims, or you prefer a casual meal of tasty portions or original mixes, Santiago is the place to go for food lovers.
Who can resist a tasty pie filled with the most daring combinations, pork with turnip tops, the best seafood, veal, octopus or a strong Galician soup? Or the distinctive taste of a wide variety of cheese: tetilla cheese, Arzúa-Ulloa, O Cebreiro or San Simón?.
Tarta de Santiago is a famous dessert, with over 200 years of history, combining the right proportions of ground almonds, eggs, sugar, butter and hints of cinnamon, under the Apostle cross drawn on sugar.
You can combine culture and gastronomy, can’t you? The place to go is Abastos market, a beautiful building from 1941. This place is the second most visited place in Santiago after the Cathedral. Around here you will find great restaurants and even places where you can ask the owner to cook the products you have purchased at the market.
So you feel like visiting Santiago, do you? Book your flights here!
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