By Michael Schurmann from easyhiker.co       

There is no shortage of attractive hiking destinations for day trips near Munich where you are during the Oktoberfest. Both the Goldsteig and the Altmühl-Panoramaweg “top trails” are just a train ride away, and of course, there are always the Alps.
But Lake Starnberg tops the list of day trip destinations because it is by far the easiest to reach and is the scene of a titillating piece of German royalty history. (More of that if you promise to read through.)

You can go there by City Rail (the S-Bahn) in 30 minutes from Munich Central Station, and the round trip is covered by the Munich day pass which gives you unlimited access to all the city’s public transport facilities (a steal at €20 for up to five persons).

Another reason why Lake Starnberg tops that list: it won’t take you long to reach it from Starnberg station.

On a clear day, you can even see the Alps at the far end.

This far end, it must be said, is quite a long way away. Lake Starnberg is about 20 km long, and although it is quite narrow (never more than 5 km wide), the whole tour around the big pond may easily come to about 50 km.

“Road leading to Possenhofen hiking trail in Starnberger See near Munich”

For a day trip, this is clearly off the scale. But thankfully, there are plenty of alternatives.

On the right side of the lake, for example, there are two more S-Bahn stations further down the track (Possenhofen and Tutzing), so in theory, you could take the train there and walk back to Starnberg (7 km and 14 km respectively).

This was, in fact, our original plan: a walk to Possenhofen, the childhood home and favourite retreat of the star-crossed empress Sissi.

But the road to Possenhofen was so busy (even used by trucks) and so far away from the actual lake – it was practically lined with residential homes, gardens and boat houses – that we broke off our trip after app. 1 mile and returned to Starnberg.

Fortunately for us, we then discovered that the “left” (or western) side of the lake provides a much more pleasant ambiente.

A recognized hiking trail, the “König Ludwig Weg”, runs down the entire length of the lake’s west bank. That should, at the very least, ensure that you are safe from truck traffic.

No S-Bahn trains circulate down this side of the lake, but ferries take you to several of the small towns that are scattered around, including Seehausen at the lake’s southern tip.
If you have a full day, this is what you could do: Hike all the way to Seehausen and return by boat.

We only had the time for one section of this trail, however, and decided to walk the 6 km from Starnberg to the town of Berg.

Out of the station and standing in front of the lake, turn left.

The first half mile takes you past a mix of residential and recreational buildings: homes, gardens, boat houses and a public swimming pool.

After the first of two wooden bridges, however, the scenery becomes far more idyllic: swans in the lake, groups of sturdily built Bavarian women training their Nordic walking skills, young families and students skipping a boring lecture.

When you return to the asphalted road, in the outskirts of Berg, you will see some of the most expensive real estate in Germany.

Lake Starnberg, so pretty and so near to Munich, Germany’s richest city, is very much the Alpine version of the Cote d’Azur (or Beverly Hills).

After walking about 15 minutes, you will find the boat pier on your right.

“Sign leading to Koenig Ludwig Weg hiking trail in Starnberger See in Munich”Check the arrival and departure times, because the traffic back to Starnberg is infrequent and somewhat irregular, and if you miss one boat, you may have to wait a couple of hours for the next one.

If you can, make time for an excursion to the Votivkapelle (just follow the signs) another 30 minutes away.

This chapel was erected to commemorate one of the great unsolved mysteries of German history.
It stands very near the place where the mad King Louis II of Bavaria, (builder of Neuschwanstein Castle and generous supporter of Richard Wagner’s operatic works), explored Lake Starnberg in a vertical direction. (A wooden cross in the water marks the spot.)

Was it an accident? Did he commit suicide? Or was some sort of jiggery pokery involved? (For a full round-up of events, go HERE.)

On the way to the chapel, you will come across a plaque on a boat house where it says that Ludwig often set out from there to meet with his “soul mate” Sissi on the other side of the lake.

I found it strange and almost touching to see that after all these years, the Bavarians still can’t quite seem to cope with the fact that their beloved “Kini” did not fancy girls all that much.

For a less shamefaced account of the king’s life, watch Ludwig II, directed by Luchino Visconti and featuring the male model Helmut Berger as the eponymous royal, one of the campiest movies ever made: the thinking man’s Wizard of Oz.

If you do not have the time to experience Mr. Visconti’s Magnum Opus in its full Wagnerian languor of 247 minutes, do yourself a favour: sample the director’s operatic ambition here.

The latter section also features here a must-watch Bavarian-style gay orgy with folk dancing, zither music and much mutual groping.

No wonder the locals hated the film so much that they tried to have it banned when it was first released in 1972.)

Now, return to the pier where – if there is still time – you can have a coffee or a beer on the terrace of the Hotel Berg before taking the boat back to Starnberg.
If you have started your day before 12, you can still be back at your favourite Oktoberfest beer tent before the evening rush begins – and won’t miss any of the action.

Why not take a trip to Munich? Have a look at our flights here!

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Jazz was of course born in the United States. However, if you care to read the finer print, you will discover that something happened in the 1930s in Europe which was to revolutionise American jazz. In the gypsy camps on the outskirts of Paris – now the city’s 18th arrondissement – the young Django Reinhardt improvised a fusion of swing and traditional Eastern European music on his banjo. He taught himself, paying special attention to finger position, and inadvertently invented jazz manouche or gypsy jazz, a genre which elicits virtuosity in the playing and is pleasant on the ear.

Django lost two fingers on his left hand when his caravan caught fire, prompting him to develop an unusual way of playing the guitar. His original style, agility and speed at producing notes earned him the epithet of “father of gypsy jazz”. Together with the violinist, Stéphane Grappelli, he created the legendary Quintette du Hot Club de France, the first gypsy jazz club.

The Festival Django Reinhardt was first inaugurated a few years after his death. It was held at Samois-sur-Seine, 50 kilometres south of Paris, where he spent his final years and where he is buried. The 38th edition of the festival will be held from 6 to 9 July 2017 and, although last year it had to be moved to the Fontainebleau Chateau gardens – 50 kilometres from Paris and well connected by public transport – the original essence of the festival has survived intact. The venue is a place of pilgrimage for Django devotees and the world’s hub of gypsy jazz. This year’s lineup will see the likes of bassist Avishai Cohen, Cuban pianist Roberto Fonseca, the guitar virtuoso trio of Jean-Luc Ponty, Biréli Lagrène and Kyle Eastwood, Woody Allen’s pet gypsy jazz favourite, Stephane Wrembel and the Django Memories Project, made up of the prestigious musicians who produced the soundtrack of the recently premiered film, Django. But, at this festival the music overspills the stage – artists and devotees from across the globe hold jam sessions all over the fair grounds, beating out gypsy rhythms and reliving Django Reinhardt’s musicality.

If after that “authentic gypsy encampment” you are game for more, we have made the following selection from among the many gypsy jazz clubs Paris has to offer.

La Chope des Puces

This is unquestionably the temple of Django Reinhardt in Paris. The resident guitarist, Ninine Garcia, who hails from one of the top Parisian manouche families, leads the jam session every weekend from 12.30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Located in the Marché aux Puces, guests share a table – to taste traditional French cuisine – in a very squashed vital space, among guitars, violins and photos hanging on the walls recalling the master. Tucked away in the back room is a guitar workshop and a manouche jazz school. A venue that oozes genuine charm! 122 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen

MONK – La Taverne de Cluny

Located in the heart of the Latin Quarter, MONK is a bar devoted to the world of beer. It boasts over 50 types of bottled beer, and 10 types of draught. But La Taverne de Cluny is also a jazz club. Every Thursday and Sunday, the small stage in this typically French bar, with upholstered little tables and chairs, fills up to the sound of top-notch gypsy jazz produced by such reputable artists as Christophe Brunard, Sébastien Giniaux and Samy Daussat, among others. A must-visit spot!  51, rue de la Harpe

Café Artistique l’Apostrophe

This small, cosy musical café located just a few metres from the Canal Saint-Martinin the 10th arrondissement provides live music from Wednesday to Saturday. Over the last four years, the programme has been featuring gypsy jazz concerts from 8.30 p.m. on Fridays. L’Apostrophe has been graced by all the leading lights of the Parisian manouche scene, as well as gypsy jazz guitarists from the United States, Britain and Brazil, among others. Albert Bello, Spain’s top gypsy jazz exponent and the director of Festival Django L’H, the only festival in Spain dedicated to Django Reinhardt, has also performed there. And, the first Thursday of each month sees a jazz jam with the vocals supplied by Barbie Camion. 23 rue de la Grange aux Belles

Aux Petits Joueurs

Aux Petits Joueurs is a restaurant in the 19th arrondissement, a bistro in the purest French style where you can taste salads with hot goat’s-milk cheese, cheese boards, duck confit, tarte tatin and crepes, to name just the ABC of French cuisine. The restaurant features a jazz concert, ranging from Latin music to gypsy jazz, each day of the week except Mondays – when it is closed. The venue has seen performances by the leading figures of this genre, notably Adrien Moignard, Sébastien Giniaux and Pierre Manetti, among many others. Tuesdays and Wednesdays feature jam sessions at which some artists invite others, and it all ends up in a full-blown manouche festival. 59 rue Mouzaïa

Les Idiots

A highly popular micro-bar, among other reasons for their reasonable prices – quite a feat in Paris – and their homemade meals. Located on the Boulevard de Ménilmontant, it is a favourite haunt amongbobos(from “bourgeois, bohemian”). A young, relaxed atmosphere frequented by veritable hordes of guests. The limited capacity does not deter them from hosting jazz sessions, led by guitarist Michael Gimenez and with the participation of various gypsy jazz artists, in a corner of the bar each Monday from 9 p.m. to 11.30 p.m. 115 boulevard de Ménilmontant

Book your Vueling to Paris and get into the swing of the gypsy jazz featured across the city.

Text by Teresa Vallbona

The sun always shines on Naples, and the city thrives on its warming rays.  Neapolitans –gentile napolitani–are famous for their good cheer and vitality. When a Neapolitan is happy about something he will often order a coffee and pay for two, his own and that of the next customer to order one –a tradition known as the caffè sospeso or “pending coffee”.  What can you expect in a city with traditions like this? Generous portions, for one thing!

Pizza
The classic pizza napoletana consisting of tomato and mozzarella cheese on a thin soft dough is famous everywhere, and is available in a dazzling range of variants in the city of its birth.  Legend has it that popular Margherita version, spiced with basil, was first concocted by a local pizzaiolo in honour of Margaret of Savoy (1589-1655), Duchess of Mantua and Vice-reine of Portugal. But visitors to Naples should also sample the surprisingly wonderful fried pizza served at La Masardona, an ancient family-run establishment now managed by Enzo Piccirilo.  It resembles a no-frills doughnut shop, where rock-bottom prices and high quality food make it a unique dining, lunching, or snacking experience. For a superb exponent of the more classic Neapolitan pizza, try Da Michele, where part of the Julia Roberts film Eat Pray Love was filmed. At once dauntingly historic and warmly welcoming, it serves as juicy and tasty a Margherita as you can find anywhere in the city. But more adventurous palates may enjoy La Notizia, where master chef Enzo Coccia’s highly creative and unorthodox pizzas have made it the first and only pizza parlour to win Michelin stars. Unless you count Edoardo Trotta’s newly opened pizza unit of the famed Palazzo Petrucci, which also has a Michelin star. Try his tasty, huge ripieno al ragú (folded pizza stuffed with meat sauce). Another good choice is 50 kalò, managed by Ciro Salvo, though you may have to queue. The extra-long fermentation (rising) of the dough, and the carefully selected local ingredients make for a pizza that many Neapolitans regard as well worth the wait.

La Masardona
Via Giulio Cesare Capaccio, 27
Tel. +39 081 28 10 57

Da Michele
Via Cesare Sersale 1/3
Tel. +39 081 55 39 204

Pizzaria La Notizia
Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, 94
Tel. +39 081 19 53 19 37

Palazzo Petrucci Pizzeria
Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 5/7
Tel. +39 081 55 12 460

50 Kalò
Piazza Sannazzaro 201/B
Tel. +39 081 19 20 46 67

Sweet Stuff
The flaky sfogliatelle (filled shell-shaped pastries), and the babà (rum-drenched yeast cakes) are Naples’ most typical sweet offerings, but the sweet-toothed visitor will also appreciate the torta caprese, originating on the island of Capri but adopted long ago in Campania. A sign on Naples’ most celebrated bakery, Giovanni Scaturchio, boasts of the “Babà, sfogliatella, la caprese e il famoso 'ministeriale'. Sinonimo de napoletanità e di dolcezza” (“synonymous with Neapolitaneity and sweetness”). Some people say they find it a bit old-fashioned, but trade is always brisk there. The ‘ministeriale’ by the way, is a traditional chocolate medallion filled with a cream liqueur made from a secret formula. Then there’s Crostata (fruit pie),and cassata (ice cream with dried fruit and nuts) –the list goes on and on, but Naples is dotted with sweet and pastry shops, so you can always indulge your cravings. Not to mention the ice cream parlours. The latest of these to open its doors is the Rol Gelateria, managed by Olga Nigro and Roberta Rubino, already the most popular place to have a gelato on the Lungomare seafront promenade.

Giovanni Scaturchio Pasticceria-Gelateria
Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, 19
Tel. +39  081 55 17 031

Rol Gelateria
Via Partenope, 12/m
Tel. +39 081 76 48 393

Bar Pasticceria Il Capriccio
Via Carbonara, 39
Tel. +39 081 44 05 79

Sfogliatella Mary
Via Toledo, 66 (esquina Galleria di Umberto I)
Tel. +39 081 40 22 18

Gay Odin
Via Vetriera, 12
Tel. +39 081 41 78 43
(several outlets in the city)

Pintauro
Via Toledo, 275
Tel. +39 081 41 73 39

Views
Many have tried, but few photographers have been able to resist the magnificent, stunning, glorious Naples sunsets. The best vantage point would be the precincts of the Castel dell’ Ovo (Egg castle), a lovely fortress on the islet of Megaride in the Gulf of Naples. The Roman poet Virgil is said to have placed a magical egg under the building’s stone foundations to prevent its destruction. So far, it seems to have worked. And as the locals say, “Se non è vero, è ben trobato” (“even it it’s not true, it’s a good story!”)
Another good spot for snapping the evening skies is any room with a view in the Grand Hotel Parker's, a classical five-star hotel featuring a roof garden overlooking the sea, a buffet breakfast with home-made Neapolitan pastries made fresh each day, and many, many stories about wine. The owner, Maria Ida Avallone, also owns the Villa Matilde cellars, dealing only in local vintages that respect Neapolitan traditions. It is one of Grand Hotel Parker of 520 Independent Hotels Integrated into Small Luxury Hotels of the World ™ ( SLH ), a selection of charming establishments in 70 countries worldwide, from design hotels vanguard one palatial mansions of the seventeenth century, Sanctuaries from the center of some Private citeies islands, from Historic houses idyllic resorts.

Grand Hotel Parker's
Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 135
Tel. +39 081 76 12474

Villa Matilde
S.S. Domitiana, 18
CAP 81030 Cellole (CE)
Tel: +39 08 23 93 20 88

Wines and Liquors
Did you know that in Naples it’s a tradition to wash down your last bite of pizza with Marsala wine?  Not that it is by any means the only notable variety of wine in the Campania region, which is rich in vineyards and wineries, thanks to the winning combination of volcanic soil and abundant sunshine. The traditional Falanghina variety of grape is king, and is the basis of the dry, light whites made in the Falerno di Massico DOC. Other whites worth trying are from the Greco di Tufo DOC and the Fiano di Avellino DOC, while the best local reds are from the Taurasi DOC, while the Lacrima Cristi del Vesuvio DOC is noted for whites, reds, and both smooth and sparkling rosés, as well as sweet white dessert wines. For stronger drinks, the local limoncello should be sampled, and also the cream of limoncello prepared at Limonè. Another unusual liqueur is nocillo ornocino, made with walnuts, and a speciality of E’Curti, managed by Enzo d’Alessandro.

Limonè
Piazza San Gaetano, 72
Tel. +39 081 29 94 29

E'curti
Via G. Garibaldi, 57
Sant’Anastasia (NA)
Tel. +39 081 5312797

La Campania
One of the most famous products of the Campania region is mozzarella cheese made from the milk of water buffalos. One of the best places to sample –and stock up on– local cheeses, pastas, eggs, tomatoes, olive oil, drinks, and even pannetonne sweet bread, is Campania Mia, run by Rino Silvestro as a showcase of the best local products. The shop is also the nerve centre of Naples’ “slow food” movement, and from time to time special food tasting sessions are held in the streets adjacent to the shop.

Campania Mia
Via Belvedere, 112
Tel.+39 32 88 56 24 66

Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!

Report by Carme Gasull and Belén Parra / Gastronomistas

It probably can’t boast about having the best weather or food, but London is one of the world’s great centres of art production and exhibition. Its museums are a must-visit for expert and amateur museum-goers, as well as tourists who relish wandering through the kilometres of galleries to admire an Assyrian relief dating back 2,600 years, or paintings by Caravaggio or Turner, Charles Dickens’ original manuscripts or Pop Art silk screen prints by Andy Warhol.

The fact is London has museums for all tastes. From small and medium-sized private collections to the homes of illustrious figures, and large museums where you can spend days on end, if you feel so inclined. What’s more, most of them are admission-free. We toured the city, and here are our findings regarding the ten museums you simply shouldn’t miss.

1. British Museum – A Walk Through Archaeology

Going to London and not visiting the British Museum is like going to Madrid and not having a calamari sandwich. Among the oldest museums in Europe, it houses one of the most prestigious archaeological collections in the world. Here you will find such celebrated artefacts as the Rosetta Stone, the friezes from the Parthenon of Athens and a display of Egyptian art matched only by the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. The British Museum is in the district of Bloomsbury, a short distance from Tottenham Court Road and Russell Square, housed in one of the most striking Neoclassical buildings in England.

2. National Gallery – the Temple of Painting

If visiting London without going into the British Museum is like visiting Madrid and not eating a calamari sandwich, then touring the city without setting foot in the National Gallery is like going to Rome and not trying a dish of pasta. Presiding over the immensity of Trafalgar Square, London’s National Gallery is home to some of the most famous canvases in art history, notably Jan van Eyck’s The Arnolfini Portrait, Rokeby Venus by Velázquez or Bathers by Paul Cézanne.

3. Tate Modern – for the Creative

Opened in the year 2000, a former power station on the bank of the Thames houses Britain's national gallery of international modern art, known as the Tate Modern. It is one of the city’s major attractions and boasts one of the most comprehensive modern art collections in the world. Here you can see works by Picasso, Dalí, Mark Rothko or Andy Warhol, while their excellent schedule of temporary exhibitions enables enthusiasts to keep up-to-date with the leading artists of the moment.

4. Wallace Collection – An Oasis in the City Centre

If there was a single word to define The Wallace Collection, it might well beoasis. This erstwhile family residence is located in the heart of London, a stone’s throw away from Oxford Street and Selfridges department store. Much of the original decor remains intact and the mansion houses a collection of art, weapons and objects which the Wallace family bequeathed to the British state in 1897. Works by Rembrandt, Velázquez, Titian, Canaletto and Fragonard rub shoulders with sumptuous chandeliers, vases and chimneys in this must-see landmark. The museum is quiet, admission-free and not too large, ideal for those seeking to avoid crowds and not get museum legs from too much walking. Be sure to have afternoon tea in the museum’s elegant covered court before leaving.

5. Tate Britain – British Style

Opened in 1897, this museum boasts a large collection of historical and contemporary British art. The major draw in the exhibition is the section dedicated to William Turner, one of Britain’s most famous painters, whose life was dramatised in the award-winning 2014 film, Mr. Turner, starring Timothy Spall in the title role. There is a boat service connecting the Tate Britain to the Tate Modern, so there is no excuse not to visit both museums and have a stroll along the bank of the Thames.

6. Victoria and Albert Museum – Art in the Service of Empire

Covering an area of 45,000 square metres, the Victoria and Albert Museum is one of the most spectacular museums in London. Located in the exclusive area of South Kensington, it features a truly amazing collection of decorative art. Items on display range from ivories to oriental textiles, goldsmithery, ceramics, glass and building fragments. The architecture of the building is eminently majestic, too, featuring large galleries and courts containing life-size replicas of Trajan’s Column and the Pórtico da Gloria from the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela – incredible!

7. Charles Dickens Museum – A Literary House

Oliver Twist and David Copperfield are two of the most famous novels of all time, while their author, Charles Dickens, is one of the great geniuses of English literature. Born in Portsmouth, Dickens spent most of his life in London. Although he lived in various houses, the one at 48 Doughty Street in the central district of Holborn is the site of the museum dedicated to this literary figure. Here, the writer lived with his family from 1837 to 1839, a comparatively brief yet fertile period in which some of his most celebrated works were written. Venturing into this Georgian house is like travelling back in time – a highly enjoyable experience, as the rooms have been kept the way they were in Dickens’ time. Rounding off the visit is an exhibition of the writer’s personal belongings and his manuscripts.

8. Handel & Hendrix – A House of the Baroque… and Rock, Too

What do the guitarist Jimi Hendrix and the composer Georg Friedrich Händel have in common? Well, they both lived in the same house, although with a 200-year separation in time. To be more exact, Handel resided at 25 Brook Street, while Hendrix lived at number 23. Two adjoining houses which can be visited together. Handel lived here from 1723 until his death in 1759. Four of the rooms have been re-constructed, including the bedroom and dining-room, and some of the composer’s music and personal items are on display. If you’re lucky, you might also be in for one of the concerts organised there from time to time. The home of Jimi Hendrix, where he lived in 1968 and 1969, features an exhibition highlighting the musician’s important role and influence in 1960s London.

9. The Queen’s Gallery – In Queen Elizabeth’s Home

The British love of monarchy is well known, so before leaving London, it is worth getting a feel for the esteem in which Elizabeth II is held by the people. And, the best way to get to know someone is by visiting her home. The Queen’s Gallery is located at one end of Buckingham Palace, the Queen’s official residence in London, where temporary exhibitions of items from the Royal Collection are held. If you’re due to be in London in summer, check out the events calendar beforehand. The Gallery opens for a few weeks and is a veritable experience.

10. Saatchi Gallery – In Line With the Latest Trends

Avant-garde and ground-breaking, the Saatchi Gallery is one of the great cutting-edge exhibition centres in Europe. Opened in the early eighties to display the art collection of the publicist and art collector, Charles Saatchi, it was bequeathed to the British government in 2010. It is one of the most frequently visited museums in the world and the ideal spot to become familiar with artists and art movements. Even those not moved by art will be impressed by this museum. It is located in the heart of the Chelsea district, an area frequented by London’s elite, so you will feel like a celebrity when you visit.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS