Lighthouse Routes Around Fuerteventura
These simple constructions are a beacon for sailors. Powerful flashes of light ringing the coast help ships navigate and indicate the distance separating them from land. These lighthouses (or “Pharos” in old English, while in Spanish the word is faro) owe their name to the tower lighthouse of Pharos off the coast of Egypt. They have become veritable places of pilgrimage, providing amazing 360° panoramas of everything around them. The island of Fuerteventura, with its nearly 326 kilometres of coastline, is encircled by five such faros, linked by a route which affords travellers a lofty vantage point over the wonderful scenery surrounding this Canary island.
Faro de la Entallada – the African Viewpoint
Situated on the island’s east coast, 6 kilometres from the resort of Las Playitas – a wonderful seafaring enclave with volcanic sand – its unusual architecture makes this the most original lighthouse on the island. It is located at the closest point on the Canary Islands to Africa, some 100 kilometres away. To get to the top of cliff, be sure to keep your wits about you as the road is narrow, with hairpin bends. You can drive there, but do so with the utmost care. Once you get to the top, however, you will encounter a splendid, 200-metre-high balcony over the ocean, with views of the Cuchillos de Vigán (Vigán Knives) Natural Monument, lava fields which have sculpted a spectacular mountain chain. Built in 1952, the lighthouse has a 12-metre-high tower and two side buildings rendered in lime and red pumice stone, imbuing the ensemble with a lot of character.
Jandía Lighthouse – the Southernmost on the Island
Located at the southernmost tip of Fuerteventura, enveloped in a volcanic landscape with steep cliffs, Punta de Jandía is accessible either by private vehicle – preferably a four-wheel drive – or a public, 4x4 minibus which plies the route running from Morro Jable to Puertito de la Cruz, a village of 20 houses and two restaurants where it is said you can get the best fish soup on the island – I can vouch for this. This hamlet of houses built in traditional style leads you to the Jandía Lighthouse, set atop the finely tapered tip of the island. If you look at the sea, you can spot the delicate ripples set up by the ocean currents coming from both the Barlovento coast on the one side, and the Sotavento coast on the other. Built in 1864, the lighthouse is now home to the Jandía Nature Park Interpretation Centre.
Tostón Lighthouse – the Finest Sunset
Located at Punta Ballena, 5 km north of the picturesque fishing village of El Cotillo, is the Tostón Lighthouse, which went into operation in 1897. Together with the Martiño lighthouse, on the Isla de Lobos, and the Pechiguera lighthouse, in Lanzarote, it forms a triangle illuminating the Bocaina Strait separating Fuerteventura from Lanzarote. The site of the Traditional Fishing Museum, it is made up of three towers built in different periods, one of which is brightly coloured, with a formidable presence. It is no overstatement to say that it affords one of the most stunning sunsets on the island. The lighthouse is surrounded by little coves with calm, crystal-clear water, ideal for having a dip at the day’s end.
Morro Jable – the Island’s Modern Lighthouse
The most picturesque spot in Morro Jable, a village in the south of Fuerteventura dominated by its British and German inhabitants, is Matorral Beach, with over four kilometres of white sand fanning out from the village centre. This magnificent beach, perfectly suited to hiring a pedal boat – they really round off your holiday nicely, believe me – is the site of the modern Morro Jable Lighthouse, which began operating in 1996. It is a simple, slender reinforced concrete tower about 60 metres high. It can be accessed from the village or beach along tracks which are well signposted, as it stands in a protected Scientific Interest Site, the Saladar de Jandía wetlands, an unusual coastal ecosystem which is flooded at high tide.
San Martiño Lighthouse – the Trekkers’ Choice
The San Martiño lighthouse, built in 1865, stands on the Isla de Lobos, a picturesque rock located a few kilometres off the coast of Corralejo which can be reached by a regular ferry service. The only way of getting to the lighthouse is by walking along one of two signposted footpaths – one hugging the coastline and the other leading into the interior. The walk is suitable for visitors of all ages and your arrival at the lighthouse, after a steep but short final stretch, is ineffably rewarding. A plaque pays tribute to the novelist, Josefina Pla, who was born on the island. A breathtaking 360° panorama.
Texto de Teresa Vallbona
more infoBeyond the Alhambra Moorish Granada
The Alhambra is Granada’s landmark par excellence – no one disputes that. That’s where we usually fix our gaze, be it from one of the viewpoints or cármenes thronging the Albaicín quarter, or when scouting its interior and being carried away by the marvels it holds, particularly the gorgeous ornamentation of its Nasrid palaces. While the Alhambra is the iconic symbol of the Moorish presence in the city, it is not the only vestige in Granada that points to its rich cultural heritage. The following routes are designed to encourage you to venture along some of the city’s streets in search of the Moorish footprint, which has survived the passage of time.
Route 1. The Albaicín
Separated from the Alhambra by the river Darro, and one of the best vantage points from which to view that monument, the Albaicín quarter reveals traces of its Arab past wherever you wander. Its narrow, winding streets, where you are certain to get lost in search of the famous San Nicolás viewpoint, contain traces which clearly reflect what was once the Medina of Granada. The cisterns, tasked with storing and distributing water throughout the city, which you will come across all over the Albaicín, are the first signs of the quarter’s Moorish legacy. Our first stop on this itinerary is the Carrera del Darro, opposite Cadí Bridge, the site of a small gem known as El Bañuelo. These 11th-century Arab baths are made up of three rooms which still preserve their original vaulting with octagonal and star-shaped skylights, as well as columns with Roman, Visigoth and caliphal capitals.
Just a stone’s throw from El Bañuelo, in the Portería de la Concepción, stands the Casa de Zafra, regarded as one of the finest examples of Nasrid domestic architecture. Built in the 14th century and now reconditioned as the Centro de Interpretación del Albaicín, its interior still features remains of the original murals.
Linking up with the Carrera del Darro again and continuing along the Paseo de los Tristes as far as Calle Horno de Oro you will come across the Casa Horno de Oro, built in the late-15th century. Yet another example of the architectural harmony associated with these homes, characterised by a rectangular patio with a cistern, with the rooms arranged around the lower side of it. The next stop on our tour is the road to Sacromonte, up the hill known as Cuesta del Chapiz, the site of the Casa del Chapiz, a Moorish house now converted into the School of Arabic Studies, the gardens of which afford magnificent views of the Alhambra.
Further up the Cuesta del Chapiz you come to Plaza del Salvador, where the High Mosque of the Albaicín once stood, the site of which is now taken up by the Church of El Salvador. Built in Mudéjar style, preserved in its interior is what was once the patio of ablutions of the former mosque, accessed from Calle Panaderos. A prominent feature of this peaceful backwater are the white-painted horseshoe arches, which stand out against the greenery of the lemon trees adorning the patio.
Having got this far, we recommend you take the opportunity to visit a classic landmark – the Mirador de San Nicolás (San Nicolás viewpoint). Enjoy the amazing views of the Alhambra, take a selfie for posterity and recoup your strength for the last stop on this itinerary, Dar-al-Horra Palace. Built in the 15th century on the site of a former, 11th-century Zirid palace, this was the retreat of the sultana Aisha and mother of Boabdil, the last king of Granada. This palace encapsulates the essence of Nasrid palaces, comprising a central patio with a water well around which the rooms are arranged, as are two porticoes along the shorter sides. Noteworthy is the north portico, boasting a viewing platform with splendid vistas of the Cerro de San Cristóbal.
We recommend rounding off the itinerary by having a cup of tea in one of the numerous tea shops studding the Calle Calderería Nueva. You will be forgiven if you get transported to some Arab city as you stroll along this street.
Route 2. “New Granada”
The neighbourhood known as Nueva Granada is laid out around Granada Cathedral, built on the site of the former High Mosque. The route starts at the Corral del Carbón, once a hostel for merchants which comprised an area for depositing their wares, rooms for resting in and stables for tethering their horses. From there we head to the Alcaicería, the former silk exchange, which still bears some resemblance to an Arab souq, despite having been gutted by fire in 1843 and rebuilt in romantic, neo-Arab style. It has now been reconditioned mainly as a venue for selling souvenirs of Granada.
Book your Vueling to Granada and venture along its streets in search of the city’s Moorish past.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more infoReminiscences of British Minorca
No, we’re not thinking of homing in on all the Britons who travel to the island – and there are quite a few of them – or visiting the places they frequent, which could well be the subject of another post. Instead, let’s take a closer look at a period of Minorca’s past which still lingers there. Apart from boasting many beautiful beaches, the fact is this Balearic island occupies a strategic location in the Mediterranean. In previous centuries this led it to become a prize coveted by all in their jostle to control the trade routes across the Mare Nostrum. This small stretch of sea was fought over by Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals, Normans, Arabs, Spaniards, English and French.
This time we are focusing on the British crown, which occupied Minorca for nearly a century – from 1708 to 1802 – which ended with the signing of the Treaty of Amiens. A period when the British left their mark on the island’s people, architecture, language and cuisine and in many other ways.
The first example that comes to mind is the presence of Anglicisms in Minorcan,with such words as fáitim (fight him), joques (jokes) or fingles (fingers), or expressions like quatre mens i un boi (i.e. “four men and a boy”, meaning very few people) or fer un trinqui (“have atrinqui” from “drink”).
Gastronomy is another facet of Minorcan culture where the British have left their imprint. In the old recipes, lard is used instead of the native olive oil, while one of the island’s traditional desserts –greixera dolça– is a reworking of an English steam pudding. The pomada,one of the most popular cocktails in Minorca and a mainstay in all its festivals, contains gin – Minorcan gin – which, as you may have surmised, was introduced by the British.
Also well preserved are numerousarchitectural remainsdating back to the period of the British occupation which are well worth visiting when you happen to be on the island. Here are some of the most noteworthy examples:
The area around Mahón harbour. During their time on the island, the British made concerted efforts to build defence works around the harbour in the form of numerous forts and towers designed to withstand enemy assault. Once such example is Fort Marlborough, located in the Esteve Cove south of the port. It was built from 1720 to 1726 and named after Sir John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough. It is now a museum dedicated to the history of both Minorca and Europe in the 18th century. Be sure to stroll around its moat and to take in views of the historic areas of Mahón harbour.
Also located on the south shore of the harbour mouth is St Philip’s Castle, originally built by the Spanish in the 16th century as a defence against the Turks. With the British occupation its exterior was reinforced. A striking feature of this castle is the network of underground galleries, a veritable labyrinth of passageways which was used as a shelter by both the British and Spanish during times of enemy attack.
Hard by St Philip’s Castle is the municipality of Es Castell, which was founded by the British in 1771 and originally named Georgetown. It was built to an orthogonal ground plan and its standout feature is the Esplanade, which now houses the town hall. When the island was returned to the Spanish, it was renamed Villacarlos, in honour of Charles III.
Lastly, situated in Mahón harbour is Isla del Rey, also known as Bloody Island, as it was there that King Alfonso III landed in 1287 on his way to reconquer Minorca from the Moors. Apart from vestiges of an early-Christian church, there are remains of a military hospital built by the British.
El Camí d’en Kane (Kane’s Walk). Sir Richard Kane was lieutenant-governor of Minorca during the first two periods of British occupation. One of the many infrastructure works he committed was a road linking Mahón to Ciutadella, of which the only surviving stretch runs from Mahón to Es Mercadal. It is well worth travelling, preferably by bicycle, as it is ideal for enjoying the island’s scenic interior. At some stage along the route you will come across an obelisk commemorating the endeavours of Sir Richard Kane.
Watchtowers. Still standing are numerous watchtowers built by the British as lookouts to alert to enemy incursions. The largest of them is the Fornells Tower, but you will find many more around the island’s perimeter – Torre des Castellar (Ciutadella), Torre de Sa Mesquida and Torre Cala Molí (Mercadal), among others.
Our last recommendation when retracing the British presence on the island consists of two colonial houses which now offer accommodation – Hotel Son Granot, built in 1712, with magnificent views of Mahón harbour, and Hostal El Almirante, dating from 1809, located in Es Castell.
While roaming from cove to cove across the island, be sure to also seek out Minorca’s past – book your Vueling here!
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by jorapa , Fundació Destí Menorca
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Cultural Weekend Getaway to Munich
There’s a lot more to Munich than the Oktoberfest beer festival and a legendary football team –this city of 1.5 million people is one of Europe’s most important cultural centres, while also boasting a very complete menu of entertainment and recreational options, every day of the year. Here are a few proposals for a weekend getaway to this liveliest of German cities.
Amongst it many attractions, Munich is easy to get to and to get around in, thanks to its huge international airport, excellent rail connection, and the super-modern public transport systems serving the city and its outskirts. Most of the key places for sightseers are concentrated in a relatively small area, and the city is thronged with visitors all year round. Keep in mind that the Alps are nearby, and the city is a staging point for skiers in winter and for climbers, hikers, mountain bikers, and paragliders in summer.
The city’s cultural life is intense, and no tourist should neglect to visits the cluster of three classical art museums collectively known as the Pinakothek –a show of El Greco is now in progress in one of them and will remain open until 12th April. Not far away is the Brandhorst museum of modern art. On the bank of the Isar river is the fascinating Deutsches Museum of science and technology. It has a branch in Schleissheim to the north of the city that specialises in airplanes, and another in Theresienhöhe dedicated to every imaginable type of land transport vehicle. You may also enjoy the recently opened ZNT, New Technologies Centre, with its focus on nanotechnology and biotechnology. Car aficionados will love the BMW Welt museum –BMW is a Bavarian brand, afer all! To learn more about Munich itself, and its long and curious history, check out the Stadtmuseum, and don’t miss the permanent “Typically Munich” exhibition. For insights into the Bavarian people, there’s the incredible Residenz, the old palace of the Bavarian royal family, located in the city centre, and Germany’s largest urban palace. Today it is one of Europe’s leading museums of decorative arts, and its richly furnished and adorned spaces evoke many centuries of history under the Wittelsbach dynasty (1180-1918). At a short distance is the dynasty’s first Munich home, the Alter Hof, later used as law courts, and now the site of the Bavarian Museums Information Office and of a small museum devoted to the Wittelbachs, whose most famous king, Ludwig II, was born in the Nymphenburg castle standing in the western part of the city, next to the entrance to the Nymphenburg park. But just two hours southwest of Munich is one of Germany’s most celebrated castles, Neuschwanstein, at the foot of the Alps, which was Walt Disney’s inspiration for the castle in the cartoon classic Sleepìng Beauty.
Munich, by the way, has three top-ranked orchestras, numerous music festivals in many genres, and dozens of concert halls.
Design
Design is something else Munich is famous for, and this is evident in the way people dress –in style and good taste, like the people of Milan. The city centre is the best place to shop for designer clothes and decorative items, for antiques, and for books. For luxury goods, jewellery, silverware, etc., look for shops labelled as Königlich Bayerischen Hoflieferanten, or “suppliers to the royal household of Bavaria”.
A Bite to Eat, Sports…
It’s almost impossible not to eat well wherever you go in Bavaria, and Munich’s dining is unrivalled for quality and variety. Local specialities include the famous Weisswurst or veal sausages, accompanied by a salty soft or crisp pretzel and sweet mustard; a ration of pork or beef with mash; and a spicy Obatzder cheese sauce with black bread. When it comes to eating, the locals prefer the biergärten –especially in summer—and the friendly beer halls found throughout the city.
For the sports-minded, we recommend a tour of the Olimpiastadion stadium where the main events of the 1972 Olympic Games were held, a milestone in stadium architecture, and still in almost continual use, as is the Allianz Arena, built for the 2006 World Football Cup, and now home to FC Bayern -a team with five Champions League titles to its credit- and the less well-known TSV 1860.
Munich awaits! Check out our fares here!
Text: Isabel y Luis Comunicación
Photos: Deutschland Tourismus, Haydar Koyupinar/ Museum Brandhorst
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