Definitive guide to the month of music in Barcelona
Barcelona never sleeps, not even in the summer, quite the opposite in fact. In July, the city dances to its very own soundtrack as it becomes the venue for a whole host of top musical events. So as you can see, July is not just about sun and beach, it's also the month of music in Barcelona.
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By Laura Conde from gastronomistas
If you started to think of reasons to visit Granada, you would probably get, without even trying too hard, about 10,000 in the first minute. This city is Andalucía is comfortably at an age where modernity has arrived but it knows its place. It's a beautiful city where history is read in cobblestoned streets between cold beers and tapas.
Granada has this thing we call duende (a certain magic). It has a neighbourhood, the Albaicín, which rates amongst the most alluring places in the world. It has the Alhambra, kilometres of tapas, wonderful people and an unquestionable, elusive charm.
You won't find the city's special charm anywhere else in the world. In order to put it into words, we could choose one of the famous passages from Tales of the Alhambra by Washington Irving, an Englishman who fell head over heels for Granada as soon as he stepped foot in it. But instead we are going all post-modern and choose a sentence that we heard during our trip that, we believe, captures the essence of Granada's 'love at first sight' quality; 'Granada is the perfect place to escape to with your lover'. And it is. Even if you are monogamous through and through, or one-night stands just aren't your thing, there are a million reasons to visit Granada. Here are the first twenty.
THE SIGHTS
1- The Alhambra. What can one say about this authentic onslaught of the senses? The Alhambra is a thing of beauty, in its purest form, without additives, right in front of your eyes. It speaks of a history, more recent than we think, that bridges two Spains - in other words, a stroll through our past. As there is little say about the Alhambra that hasn't already been written, we humbly offer some practical advise for those that wish to lose themselves amongst its gorgeous mosaics that seem to have stepped out of A Thousand and One Nights: A) Hire a guide. Having someone narrate the thousand year-old history of the Alhambra, and by default the city of Granada itself, is worth its weight in gold. B) Don't book said guide for the for the morning after a night on the town when you visited about 90% of the city's bars and the temperature is 35 degrees in the shade. This can't end well.
Alhambra. Calle Real de la Alhambra, s/n.
2- El Mirador de San Nicolás. Always busy, but a must do. Every evening dozens of visitors come to this viewpoint to see (and photograph) the sun setting over the Alhambra. It's spectacular show of light, colour and incomparable beauty.
Mirador de San Nicolás. San Nicolás, s/n.
3-El Albaicín. The Mirador de San Nicolás is situated in El Albaicín, the old Jewish neighbourhood. It's still a maze of curving cobblestoned streets, hidden taverns and flamenco tablaos, shops and restaurants. There is only one way to see it - by getting lost (and leaving your watch at the hotel).
THE FOOD
4- Remojón. This orange and cod salad is one of the star dishes around these parts, and made us fall in love with local oranges. Gazpacho aside, it was the perfect starter course on our holiday and ideal for the hot temperatures. Pictured is a plate of remojón we ate at a gorgeous place called the Mirador de Morayma; a restaurant with enticing views of the Alhambra. It's quite touristy, so perhaps not entirely suitable for intrepid travellers wanting a more authentic experience.
Mirador de Morayma. Pianista García Carrillo, 2.
5- Damasqueros. One of our favourite restaurants in the city is located in a street of the same name. Chef Lola Marín's creative cuisine has its roots in Andalucía and can only be enjoyed through a tasting menu (39 €) – an experience that proved to us that, thankfully, Granada is about more than tapas and sherry.
Damasqueros. Damasqueros, 3.
6-Estrellas de San Nicolás. Once the home of the flamenco legend Enrique Morente and now one of the most popular restaurants in the city, especially for visitors. The reason? A charming space with an attractive terrace from where you can watch the sunset over the Alhambra. Not to mention a menu that offers gazpacho and fondues or where traditional Andalucian dishes co-reside with international ones. The glass-enclosed dining room defines charm and good taste, but a table on the terrace is ringside to live flamenco guitar.
Estrellas de San Nicolás. Atarazana Vieja, 1.
7- The Tapas. In Granada, if you ask for a small beer at noon (only in order to get through the afternoon and avoid an attack of Stendhal syndrome of course!) the bartender will give you a plate of 'tapas'. Or at least what he (and perhaps your mother) considers 'tapas' – for us it's more akin to a full serving of paella or lamb stew with chips. This will cost you all of 2€. So, if you are the moderate type, this will suffice for lunch. If not, you will barely need a third round.
8- The Calle Navas and its surroundings. The tapas epicentre of Granada is situated on the Calle Navas – the main drag – but also the surrounding streets. It's always buzzing with groups of people of all ages enjoying tapas, wine and beer. It the place to socialise, make new friends and who knows? Perhaps be enticed to party until dawn in a mythical spot that everyone talks about and you should visit if it's the last thing you do. Here’s the deal: As you mingle, someone is bound to say, 'You have to go to Maué' or 'You haven't been to Maué' yet?'. More details below...
9- Hens' and Bachelor Parties. How on earth can you not go to Maué when the person that is telling you to is a bearded, 90-kilogram guy wearing a Playboy bunny costume? Or a group of school friends dressed up as nurses? Granada is a paradise for Bachelor and Hens’ nights; every weekend it hosts dozens of groups celebrating the 'last night of freedom'. On the weekends they tend to conglomerate around the Calle Navas to eat, drink, bond and of course, give you a hard time for having never been to Maué. Take a prime seat on a terrace and watch them pass by. It's pure comedy, and worth the trip to Granada alone.
10- Castañeda. On and around Calle Elvira, another epicentre of tapas and shopping (mostly tiny places selling Arabic objects), Castañeda is a much-loved, always bustling establishment that has jamón legs and chorizos hanging from the ceiling, a bull's head on the wall and some incredible tapas.
Castañeda. Almireceros, 1-3.
11- Cannelle. Looking for a healthy breakfast? With homemade cakes, special menus, magazine and books? A place that is totally child-friendly? Cannelle is such a place; a cafe that could easily be in London or Paris, full of good vibes and a good time.
Cannelle. Acera del Darro, 44.
THE NIGHTLIFE
12- Ganivet. A bastion of Granada's nightlife, this central bar-club, situated below stone arches, has two cave-like rooms; one blasting out commercial hits and the other Spanish pop. Always packed with thirty-something patrons, it has a good, clean vibe and great drinks.
Ganivet. Ángel Ganivet, 13.
13- Bambino. Mainstream flamenco where the age of the clientele is considerably lower than that of Ganivet's. Bambino is deliciously unpredictable, very curious, at times explosive and others about as lively as a funeral. But how can you come to Granada and not dance to Navajita Plateá in a disco?
Bambino. Arabial, 45.
14- Mondrian. If you feel like some rock and roll then look no further. Situated in a lovely, cobblestoned lane, it is different to other bars such as Ganivet in so much as its full of messy-haired patrons wearing un-ironed shirts and sports shoes. In fact, you get the feeling that a guy in a black leather jacket and boots will appear at the door at any moment. He will take a seat at the bar, order a Voll-Damm beer, turn around and look at you with a tortured face and at that precise moment you will realise it is rockero Miguel Ríos. The mojitos are excellent.
Mondrian. Santa Inés, 4.
15- Mae West. Mega-club of the first order that is open until 6am. From 3am onwards, after the bars have closed, every nighthawk in Granada, ascends this temple of commercial hits and heavy drinking where time stands still. It's a strange place that brings together people of all ages until well into the early hours after an intense evening of Bachelor and Hens' party observation and other prankish behaviour. Be assured: Mae West is the closest rival in Granada to Maué. A legend.
Mae West. Centro Comercial Neptuno. Arabial, s/n.
16- Aliatar. This is a major club with disco music, a more mature crowd and bar that serves gin and tonics to discerning clients. It's a place you can go to at any time to enjoy and well-prepared drink (the cocktails are made with expert hands). Park your bag and jacket on top of the grand piano in the centre of the dance floor and let loose to 'Lady Marmalade'. A classic.
Aliatar. Recogidas, 2.
17- Tablao flamenco Albayzin.
Choosing a tablao should be as simple as wandering around the Albaicín, following your nose (and heart) and letting yourself be seduced by the emotions that local flamenco brings. Actually we came across this one on the advice of our hotel, who organise package deals that include transport, supper and show. That way, we were able to experience it at a good price.
Tablao Flamenco Albayzin. Carretera de Murcia s/n.
AND ALSO..
18- La lonja. Leaving food aside for the moment, it would be remiss not to recommend this singular shop. Somewhere between shabby and cool (but always in good taste) it sells all sorts of vintage pieces, from furniture to objects.
La lonja. Buensuceso, 31.
19- The warmth of its people. It's not a cliché for nothing: they couldn't be nicer.
20- Your lover? If you have one they are as a good reason as any to visit Granada. If not you can always (like we did) take full advantage of the city's bars. After three days, you will have no idea where your hotel is but will be on first name terms with all the porters. Or did you think that a killer hangover and passing out halfway through our 'Alhambra morning' was pure poetic license?
Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!
more infoFez – A Reflection of Africa
Fez is the symbolic heart of Morocco, as well as the country’s spiritual and cultural centre. Green prevails on the mosque facades and domes and is regarded worldwide as the colour of Islam. This fact is also reflected in the Fez Festival of World Sacred Music, which attracts musicians from all over the planet every summer. This is a unique event which sets up avenues of dialogue between disparate cultures and religions from Islamic lands.
But, don’t start panicking! You needn’t expect slow religious concerts in the sense of Gregorian chant. Rather, this is a festival which, year after year, promises to dish out great chunks of entertainment. On previous occasions, the Fez Festival was graced by the participation of music stars of the calibre of Björk, Paco de Lucía, Patti Smith, Joan Baez and Youssou N’Dour.
Noteworthy among the cultural and musical offerings at this year’s festival – which features over 500 international musicians starring in more than 50 shows and 10 concerts – is the flamenco of Diego el Cigala, the rhythm & blues of The Temptations with their legendary seal of American Motown, the video artist Jean de Boysson and the Malian singer and songwriter, Oumou Sangare, among many others.
In Memory of Hassan Al Wazzan, Explorer of Al-Andalus
This the 21st edition of the Fez Festival will be held from 22 to 30 May. Under the slogan, “A Reflection of Africa”, the festival commemorates the journeys of Hassan Al Wazzan, the Andalusi explorer known as the Lion of Africa whose remains are buried in Fez.
The life of Hassan Al Wazzan, who lived in the 15th and 16th century, was one of a nomad who was forced to travel due to political and religious circumstances. He embarked on a diplomatic career while studying in a Fez madrasa and travelled across all of North Africa as an explorer and geographer. Finally, he went to Rome, where he was adopted as a son of Leo X. There he was baptised with the name Giovanni Leone de Medicis (or Leo Africanus), although he never turned his back on the Islamic tradition.
Alternative Activities
The music programme is supplemented by a comprehensive schedule of parallel activities, notably film screenings, conferences, exhibitions and children’s activities. An alternative cycle of free concerts will be staged throughout the festival in Bab Boujloud square, paralleled by the Nuits Soufies, featuring free, daily concerts in the Dar Tazi gardens, right in the heart of the Fez medina, a symbolic place providing a broad overview of the all-embracing Islamic culture.
Fez – the Cradle of North African Culture
With over a million inhabitants, the Fez el-Bali medina (Old Fez) stacks up as one of the largest inhabited medieval cities in the world. The district is listed as a World Heritage site and contains the world’s largest pedestrian precinct. Its interior is a maze of 10,000 backstreets, some of which are cul-de-sacs, while others seem to lead you back to your starting point. Getting your bearings in that labyrinth can be complicated, but that’s part of its charm.
Like Fez el-Bali, Fez el-Jdid is a walled enclosure. Set in the walls are a number of palaces, gardens, bazaars and Koranic schools, the architecture of which is more elegant than in the rest of the city. The most interesting sights in the area are the Dar El Makhzen Royal Palace and the Mellah or Jewish quarter.
One of the most popular places with tourists is the Chaouwara tannery. While not suitable for the squeamish, on account of the potent smell given off by the animal hides, a visit to this quarter comes highly recommended. Seen from a vantage point, the quarter is magical, resembling a painter’s palette.
Text by Scanner FM
Images by Phil Chambers, Deniz Eyuce, Pablo Jimenez, Elena, Adolf Boluda and Sergio Morchon
more infoBuying Vinyls in London
Now that digital music seems to be trying to kill off the market for music on physical media, the vinyl record industry is actually weathering the storm quite well. Whether for reasons of pure collectionism, for love of the musical fetish that vinyl represents and will continue to represent or because any true Disc Jockey understands that vinyl is the best medium to withstand a dance floor, records in their original vinyl format continue to fill the shelves of many temples to the music lover around the world. London is a great example of this love of vinyl. We take a tour of a few shops that are still selling seven or twelve inch vinyl records today, well into the 21st Century. Come with us on this vinyl trail around London.
First off, an essential visit to the Portobello district of the city where we find two key establishments: Rough Trade and Intoxica.
In Portobello, Intoxica treasures a truly enviable catalogue of vinyl delights. Many authentic gems await discovery here, from originals by Serge Gainsbourg himself to rare editions of pop classics. It is a true paradise for any collector who will have no qualms about paying the price dictated by the condition of the vinyl and the cover sleeve in order to enrich their own personal collection. The original Rough Trade shop is only a few metres away on Talbot Road.
Within the walls of this legendary record shop, established in 1978, you’ll be able to find every style of music you can possibly imagine and unearth some surprising offers. Rough Trade East is the second shop to be opened by the British music loving owners, but a little further away this time in Brick Lane. This enormous shop offers regular live performances, an Internet café and even an exhibition hall. Rough Trade East has the largest catalogue of new items in London and sells out quickly thanks to its online store.
Another good part of the British capital city for buying vinyl lies in the north of the city – Camden.
Out on the Floor Records, on Inverness Street, is a great place to pick up second-hand LPs, original albums and even seven inch records. The curious feature of this shop is its three-in-one structure. A first floor that is independent of the ground floor that, in turn, is divided into two more. Staying in Camden and if you like rock & roll or garage, Sounds that Swing (at 88 Parkway) offers material from Crypt and Norton in its small but cosy vinyl boutique.
This tour would not be complete without a visit to the city centre and the always bustling Soho district. There are four jewels in the crown as far as vinyl is concerned to be found in Soho: Sounds of the Universe, Vinyl Junkies, Phonica and Sister Ray. Vinyl Junkies can be found on Berwick Street and is a shop that specialises in black sounds, such as funk, soul and disco music. Here you will find tonnes of great material from these musical genres. Groove, baby, groove!!! Sister Ray specialises in independent music and features the trendiest bands of the moment in any genre from indie pop to the newest style to be born on the streets of South London, dubstep. Sounds Of the Universe, the record shop run by the prestigious Soul Jazz Records label at 7 Broadwich Street, is home to vinyl records that echo the history of music through some of the very best compilation albums.
Our brief vinyl tour of London ends at an establishment that specialises in electronic music. Phonica can be found at 51 Poland Street and offers the latest and most recent genres, such as techno, house, electro, drum ‘n’ bass and every other style there is as far as electronic music is concerned.
Now you know, if you’re looking to buy vinyl records, London is a very good place to start. Get your wallet ready and let the magic of vinyl whisk you away to another world.
By Carlos Medina
Why not take a trip to London? Have a look at our flights here!
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