Gustav Klimts Vienna
It would be impossible to imagine 20th-century Vienna without the amazing art legacy of Gustav Klimt (1862-1918). While his primary subjects were the female nude and portraits of Vienna’s high society, the works of this symbolist painter continue to fascinate experts and amateurs alike. Today we tour Vienna in search of the oeuvre of one of the most compelling painters of all times.
“To Every Age its Art, to Every Art its Freedom”
The best way to come to grips with Klimt’s legacy in Vienna is by starting at the building of the Vienna Secession, designed by Joseph Maria Olbrich and sited at 12 Friedrichstrasse. A dome festooned with laurel leaves crowns a facade which bears the motto of the Secession, “To Every Age its Art, to Every Art its Freedom”. The motto is accompanied by a frieze created by Klimt in 1902 as a tribute to Ludwig van Beethoven. Visitors to the building were greeted by the Beethoven Frieze, one of his most celebrated works. Measuring 34 metres long by 2.15 metres high, it was not put on public display again until 1986.
This famous painting recalling Wagner conducting Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony was actually intended for a temporary exhibition, but was saved from destruction by a collector. It was divided up and acquired by the Austrian state again in 1973, and exhibited once more as of 1986.
After the Vienna Secession building, our next stop is the must-visit Museum of Art History (Kunsthistorisches Museum). After entering, as you go up the staircase, look up at the 40 paintings on the columns and arches executed by the three artists making up the so-called Society of Artists, whose members were Gustav Klimt, his brother Ernst and Franz Matsch.
The Burgtheater
After completing their work at the Museum, the Society of Artists was commissioned to execute a number of frescoes on the two staircases of the Burgtheater (Universitätsring, 2). The project was so successful that the painters were decorated by Emperor Franz Josef. On the main staircase, Klimt recreated the Theatre in Taormina, while on the other he provided a depiction of the Globe Theatre in London featuring the final scene from Shakespeare’s "Romeo and Juliet." This work includes what is regarded as the only self-portrait he ever painted.
A stone’s throw from the Burgtheater lies the Karlsplatz, one of the city’s nerve centres, which boasts some of the most famous buildings of the Vienna Secession. Prominent landmarks include the Otto Wagner Pavilion (built in 1900 for the Vienna Metro lines), the Künstlerhaus and the Art History Museum, which houses some of Klimt’s works, notably Pallas Athene and a portrait of Emilie Flöge. He was very attached to Emilie, his sister-in-law, although there is no evidence that they romanced, as some claim. He also painted many other women, including Maria Zimmermann (Mizzi), Johanna Staude and Adele Bloch-Bauer, of whom he did two portraits.
The Belvedere
The Belvedere Palace Museum houses some of Klimt’s most acclaimed paintings, chiefly two icons of his “Golden Phase” – The Kiss and Judith I. Gustav’s father and brother were gold engravers, which accounts for his foray into golden ornamentation and his use of gold leaf. The Belvedere houses more works by Klimt than any other gallery – twenty-four, in all. However, you should also make a point of visiting the Leopold Museum, in the heart of the Museumsquartier (MQ). Displayed alongside works by Schiele are Klimt’s Death and Life, in addition to a study for Judith II and a view of Lake Atter.
Villa Klimt
Gustav Klimt had several studios during his lifetime, but the only one which has survived to the present is where he spent the last few years of his life. The Klimt Villa, situated on the Feldmühlgasse 11, was re-opened to the public in 2012 after being rebuilt from period photos. While it does not house original works, it provides an interesting insight into the life of this universal artist.
Don’t pass up the chance to discover the work of Gustav Klimt – book your Vueling here.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more infoMusic Before the Wall’s Demise
Berlin clearly lived through one of its most bizarre periods during the Cold War. Bizarre, in that erecting a wall dividing a city into two parts, separating families and neighbours and setting them in opposing universes, is an Orwellian experience to say the least.
Each part of the city obviously developed in a very different way. On the one hand, East Berlin stagnated within a system based on obsessive control by the regime, a pattern shared by the rest of the communist bloc. West Berlin, for its part, evolved in similar fashion to the rest of the capitalist world.
West Berlin – From the Mecca of the Underground to Hedonistic House
From the seventies on, in line with the new trends in England and the United States, a new musical scene began to gain currency in Berlin, based on creative freedom and the aesthetic of a clean break with the past. Berlin became one of the leading centres of punk and all its subsequent ramifications. Their outsider and underground art culture sediment attracted performers of the calibre of David Bowie, Brian Eno, Keith Haring and Lou Reed throughout the seventies. By then, a good number of bands were feeding such exciting circuits as those of London and Sheffield.
At the end of the seventies, the music of Joy Division and dabblers in electronic and industrial music were adopted as icons of the flourishing alternative scene of an open Berlin. Unlike the British or American varieties, German post-punk was characterised by a tension between politics and culture and aesthetically owes much to krautrock, as many of its themes are endless repetitions at a heady pace, notably Geld/Money by the arty band, Malaria, or the early recordings of DAF.
As of 1980, the exciting Berlin scene was always on the move, spawning an inexhaustible string of bands like Einstürzende Neubauten– headed by the controversial Blixa Bargeld – Die Unbekannten, Nina Hagen, Die Krupps, Mekanik Destrüktiw Komandoh, Die Tödliche Doris, Geile Tiere and Die Arztewith their punk funk distinguished by sarcastic lyrics.True to say, the scene was not made up of musicians alone, but by film stars and directors, writers, philosophers, artists and photographers, too. By the mid-eighties a process of disintegration had set in. Music became ever more commercial and groups began to sign up with multinationals. However, it was not long before a new sound revolution arose which had a marked impact on the city – the advent of acid house and techno. Recall that Berlin’s Love Parade was the first mass parade of electronic music in the world. The first Love Parade was in 1989. The event started out as a clamour for peace and mutual understanding through music. Just a few months later, the Wall came down and West Berlin was consigned to history.
The legendary SO36 was still going strong at that time. The club, located on the Oranienstrasse near Heinrichplatz in the Kreuzberg district, took its name from the area’s famed postal code – SO36. The district of Kreuzberg is historically the home of Berlin punk, and of other alternative German subcultures. SO36 was initially dedicated mainly to punk music. As of 1979 it attempted a crossover between punk, new wave and visual art. In those days the club rivalled New York’s CBGB as one of the world’s leading new wave spots. Others on the Berlin circuit included Metropol, the disco, Kino, the club 54 Kantstrasse and the Sputnik alternative cinema, where the cult film Christiane F. premiered.
Period Document on the Big Screen
The 13th Beefeater In-Edit Festival will be held in Barcelona from 29 October to 8 November. Prominent among the many films to be shown is B-Movie: Lust & Sound in West-Berlin 1979-1989, a documentary directed by Jörg A. Hoppe, Heiko Lange and Klaus Maeck on music, art and chaos in the Wild West of Berlin in the decade of the 1980s, the walled city that became a creative crucible for a special type of pop subculture which attracted brilliant dilettantes and world-famous celebrities of all kinds. However, prior to the fall of the Iron Curtain, artists, squatters, poets, music creators and hedonists came together to enjoy a highly unconventional lifestyle in Berlin. They all knew it would be short-lived but, who’s worried about tomorrow? It was a case of living for the here and now.
Featuring mostly unreleased television material and original footage, photos and interviews, B-Movie chronicles life in a divided city, a cultural interzone where anything seemed possible – a place different from anywhere else in Europe. It is a fast-moving collage of stories about a frenzied but creative decade starting with punk and ending with the Love Parade, in a city where days are short and nights are interminable.
Berlin is currently experiencing a youthful resurgence in terms of cultural activity – and music, too! Why wait to discover it all? Check out our tickets here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
more infoFor Valentine, The Best Boulangeries in Paris
It’s hard, and maybe impossible, to find a bad bakery in Paris. Expert bakers using plenty of butter produce goods that rarely disappoint. But some are especially good. Every year the city honours one of them for making the city’s best baguette or rod-shaped loaf, and the winner gets to supply bread to the President of the Republic for a year. Past winners constitute a roll of honour, and a good indication that they’re worth a visit. Here are a few:
LE GRENIER A PAIN (Abbesses, 38)
Michel Galloyer has 30 branches in Paris and the provinces, but the original in Montmartre is the one awarded the 2010 Best Baguette prize. There’s no room to sample the fare in the shop, but the nearby stairway to the gleaming white Sacré Coeur Basilica is a good alternative, thanks to the incomparable view of the city. The bakery boasts a large variety of breads that are baked in sight of the customer, as well as sandwiches starting at 3€ pizza or a bit more than 2€, and wonderful fougasses (flat bread roll stuffed with savoury ingredients). The goat cheese and tomato version costs only 2.20€. The croissants are out of this world, as are the chausson aux pommes, or apple turnovers.
PAIN DE SUCRE (Rambuteau, 14)
The success of the boulangerie-patisserie that opened a decade ago in Le Marais necessitated the opening of additional premises almost next door, with two tables indoors and five outdoors for sampling the sweet pastries. The main shop sells bread, sweet and savoury pastries, quiches, pain roulé (bread stuffed with spinach, bacon and cheese, spicy sausage and plums, etc.), focaccias (special flat bred topped with herbs and other ingredients), homemade creamy soups (try the pumpkin and chestnut!), and other treats. The décor is avant-garde, the food itself is colourful (check out the marshmallows), and you can order coffee. It’s a bit pricy –like almost everything in Paris—but worth everysou. You should consider the roule au pistaches (breakfast snail with pistachios) and the pain au chocolat.
LEGAY CHOC (Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie, 45)
Le Marais is one of the city’s most gay-friendly district and the owner of this little bakery is not only gay and proud, but his surname is Legay. And indeed, his shop is famed for its penis-shaped loaves and brioches (2.30€), but everything in the shop is of the highest quality, including the hot dogs, wraps, and pizza, as well as the bread, pastry, quiches, and small pies. There are no tables, so it’s a take-away, but not at all expensive.
MURCIANO (Rosiers, 14)
This is a charming traditional Jewish bakery in Le Marais, featuring a menorah (Hebrew candelabra) in the window. The speciality is apple and cinnamon strudel (2.80€ per portion), as good as it gets. There are also traditional Jewish bread like the braided challah eaten on the Sabbath and other holy days, or rogallah, a sort of croissant with chocolate edges.
This boulangerie now has about a hundred branches all over the world, thanks master baker Eric Kayser, whose latest honours are for “Best Croissant” and “Best Bread” in Tokyo. His first bakery stands on rue Monge, 6, near Notre Dame cathedral, and features a bar and outdoor table –all branches have some seating facilities. A 100% ecological branch now operates at number 14 of the same street. Aside from bread and pastries, there are sandwiches, salads, tarts,quiches, and various combination for the lunch menu.
POILÂNE (Cherche-Midi, 8)
There are often long queues outside this little bakery in Saint-Germain des Près, one of the most celebrated in all Paris. The bread is believed to taste exactly the same is it did when the shop was opened in 1932 by Pierre Poilâne. The recipe calls for sea salt from Guérande, stone-ground organic flour, and fresh yeast, and baking is done in a wood-fired oven. There are two more branches in Paris and two in London. Don’t fail to try the delicious nut and raisin bread!
DES PAIN ET DES IDEES (Yves Toudic, 34)
Paris’ most “hipster” bakery, near the Canal Saint Martin, has a one large wooden table for all in front of the shop. With a lovely interior and show windows filled with charming knick-knacks, the shop features baked goods made with top-quality organic ingredients, and the bread is called “des amis” (for friends), Though his background is in fashion, proprietor Christophe Vasseur was named Paris’ best boulanger by the prestigious guide Gault&Millau. He offers traditional product, but also likes to experiment, and he also sell croissants made with matcha tea, Mouna (brioche with orange blossom), and even escargot made with lemon and almond nougat.
Ready to try some of this? Check out our low fares here!
By Isabel Loscertales / Gastronomistas.com
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Rome On Celluloid
The Eternal City is also a city of celluloid. From Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn’s Vespa ride, to Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni’s dip in the Fontana di Trevi, Rome has been the backdrop of some of the most iconic sequences in cinema history. We embark on a celluloid tour of the capital of Italy while recalling the best movies that featured Rome as one of their protagonists.
To Rome With Love (Woody Allen, 2012)
Woody Allen stands out as one of the filmmakers who has most successfully captured the essence of New York. However, in recent years, the indispensable American director went on a pilgrimage that led him to film in London, Barcelona, Paris and Rome. One of the most outstanding movies from his European tour, To Rome With Love, revolves around Monti, a district of Rome which shook off its unsavoury past and became one of the liveliest areas in the city. The film also captures the beauty of other spots, notably the Via dei Neofiti, the Piazza della Madonna dei Monti and the popular Bottega del Caffè.
Bicycle Thieves (Vittorio de Sica, 1948)
A masterpiece of Italian Neorealism, a style which in the first half of the 20th century yielded some of the milestones in cinema history through its stark portrayal of mundane, everyday life. Lamberto Maggiorani, an unemployed construction worker and untrained newcomer to acting, breathes life into the character of Antonio Ricci, who has his bicycle stolen during his first day’s work posting advertising bills. While chasing the thief, Lamberto runs through the popular quarters of Trastevere and Porta Portese.
La Dolce Vita (Federico Fellini, 1960)
One of Federico Fellini’s heights of creativity and one of the most accurate cinema depictions of Rome’s character – particularly as it was in the 1950s, with its post-war mixture of glamour and humdrum genre life. Marcello Mastroianni stars as Marcello Rubini, a gossip magazine journalist who follows the great film star Sylvia wherever she goes (especially on her night outings), the role played by a mesmerising Anita Ekberg. Although such landmarks as the Piazza del Popolo, Via Veneto and Piazza Barberini feature in La Dolce Vita, the movie will always be remembered for the scene at the Fontana di Trevi.
The Great Beauty (Paolo Sorrentino, 2013)
Awarded the Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film in 2014, Paolo Sorrentino’s The Great Beauty is the 21st century’s La Dolce Vita. Enveloped in a fascinating surrealistic aura, seldom has Rome glittered so exuberantly on celluloid. You simple cannot help falling for Rome as seen through the gaze of Sorrentino as it settles on the Piazza Navona, Baths of Caracalla, Villa Medici, Palazzo Colonna, the Colosseum, Gianicolo, the Tempietto di Bramante and the Orange Garden.
Night On Earth (Jim Jarmusch, 1991)
Roberto Benigni plays an eccentric cabbie, the main star of the Rome vignette of Jim Jarmusch’s Night On Earth.This is a collection of five vignettes with stories set in Los Angeles, New York, Paris, Helsinki and Rome. In the episode set against the backdrop of the Eternal City, Benigni picks up a priest in the early hours and drives him through some of the best known settings in the city, notably the Colosseum, while making a hilarious confession of his sex life.
Rome, Open City (Roberto Rossellini, 1945)
Another essential film of mid-20th-century Italian Neorealism. Inspired by the true story of the priest, Giuseppe Morosini, who was tortured and murdered by the Nazis for having helped the partisans. Filmed in the district of Prenestina the same year World War II ended, Rome, Open City lays bare the physical and moral wounds left by the conflict on the streets of the Eternal City and in the spirit of its people. And, amid so much suffering, a masterful Anna Magnani.
Dear Diary (Nanni Moretti, 1993)
With Dear Diary, this Trans Alpine Woody Allen executed one of his most widely acclaimed films. A semi-autobiographical comedy in the guise of a documentary, it recalls the director’s experiences in three chapters – On My Vespa, Islands and Doctors.In the first of these, Moretti rides his scooter through Rome’s everyday settings in August, providing a different take on the Italian capital. One unforgettable moment shows Moretti dancing with his running Vespa.
Roman Holiday (William Wyler, 1953)
However, the prize for iconic scooter tours of Rome goes to Roman Holiday, starring Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn. It marks a sublime moment in the history of cinema, particularly the scene on the Spanish Steps or the sequence shot at the Bocca della Verità. The winner of three Oscars, this movie marked Rome’s ascendency as a city of cinema.
Book your Vueling to Rome here and let yourself be bewitched by this celluloid city.
Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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