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Palio di San Ranieri – Magical Days in Pisa

Saint Ranieri is the patron of the Tuscan city of Pisa and of travellers. Spectacular celebrations in his honour and commemorating his death are held each year on 17 June and the previous day. The highlights are the Luminara di San Ranieri and the Regatta Storica, staged in some of the city’s most emblematic spots.

Luminara di San Ranieri – Pisa by Candlelight

On 16 June, as the sun begins to set, Pisa comes alight with the Luminara di San Ranieri. Thousands of lights appear in windows and on cornices, illuminating the outlines of buildings, churches and bridges and setting up a unique and very beautiful effect. Some 70,000 candles, known as lampanini or lumini, placed in cups and on candlesticks, are consumed in this spectacle of light. The display is magical and a stroll along the banks of the river Arno and across its bridges as you contemplate the reflections of the lights playing on the surface of the water is an unforgettable experience.

That night is the ideal time for visiting the city’s landmark buildings which, being lit up, provide an extraordinary sight. The 12th-century city walls on the Piazza dei Miracoli (Square of the Miracles) frame a monumental complex consisting of the Duomo and the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Baptistery and the Monumental Cemetery – a whole historical complex enhanced by the candlelight. At 11 p.m. a great fireworks display starts up at the Cittadella Vecchia (Old Citadel), painting the sky of Pisa in a host of colours. That is when everybody congregates around the river Arno as it affords the best view of the spectacle.

Regatta Storica di San Ranieri 

On the following day, the feast of Saint Ranieri, the celebrations continue across the whole city, featuring music, dancing and banquets. Another noteworthy event in honour of the saint takes place that same day, the Regatta Storica di San Ranieri, a race between rowing boats representing Pisa’s four historical districts – San Francesco, San Martino, Santa Maria and Sant’ Antonio. The boats are reconstructions of the stefaniane, a typical rowing boat used by the Order of the Cavalieri di Santo Stefano.

Apart from the Leaning Tower, What Else is there to See?

Pisa is the jewel of Tuscany, a destination that attracts thousands of tourists eager to soak up its art and historical heritage. The birthplace of Galileo Galilei has a lot to offer, apart from the Leaning Tower. Corso Italiai s the city’s shopping precinct, the ideal place for picking up an Italian fashion garment or for enjoying the café terraces. Borgo Stretto, too, with its elegant bars and haute couture stores. This medieval alley eventually leads into the Piazza dei Cavalieri (Knights’ Square), the city’s historic centre. The square boasts centuries-old buildings, such as the Palazzo della Carovana, also known as the Palazzo dei Cavalieri, built as the headquarters of the Order of the Knights of St Stephen, which now houses one of Italy’s most prestigious universities, the Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa. Opposite stands the Palazzo dell’Orologio (Clock Palace) with its two medieval towers. Legend has it that this palace was built over the remains of the Torre della Fame (Tower of Hunger) where, as cited in Dante Alighieri’s Divine Comedy, the Conte Ugolino della Gherardesca was imprisoned, together with his sons, accused of treason by the archbishop. The key to their cell was thrown into the river Arno and they all died slowly of hunger.

Incidentally, Piazza Dante is another of the city’s landmarks. It provides smooth access into the alleyways of the medieval city with its countless bars and restaurants serving Tuscan cuisine. The food is excellent in Pisa and, by avoiding the more commercial circuits around the Leaning Tower, is not necessarily expensive.

Text by Scanner FM

Images by Fabio Gismondi | elenavataga | Federico Caboni | Alex | Alessandro | Guillaume Baviere

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Local Design Gems

Walking through central Prague it’s hard not to get trapped in the elaborate net of touristy souvenir shops and hot wine stands. But just like in the Dark Ages, there is a hidden layer to the today’s city bustling with lights, sights and stores. Jewelry, accessories and home décor by local artists feeding on the country’s rich design traditions may be hard to spot by accident – but now you don’t have to.

ARTĚL

Started by Karen Feldman back in 1988, now ARTĚL is a renowned glassware brand with 2 stores in Prague and a reputation far beyond. Today, they carry Karen’s own patterned glass items as well as countless multidisciplinary articles by young local designers. Earrings to candles and rings to buttons and postcards, ARTĚL is a seminal element in the local design scene.

Celetná 29 (entrance on Rybná), Prague 1
www.artelglass.com
open daily 10:00-19:00

KUBISTA

Housed in a gorgeous cubist building called the House of the Black Madonna, Kubista shares it with the Czech Museum of Cubism and the Grand Café Orient restaurant upstairs. Focusing on one-of-a-kind cubist (and other) jewelry, lamps, and ceramics, Kubista offers a refined, intimate shopping experience. Each item has the designer’s name on the tag, and extra careful packing and shipping for fragile purchases are available.

Ovocný trh 19, Prague 1
www.kubista.cz/en/
open Tue to Sun 10:00-18:30

DOX DESIGNSHOP

The DOX Centre for Contemporary Art is alone worth a visit, but the Designshop within it puts the huge complex on the must visit map. Attracting a younger crowd in terms of both buyers and designers, the DOX Designshop shows how ambitious artists experiment with jewelry as well as traditionally Czech glass and porcelain,. The Bookshop right nearby offers the best design, art and photo book selection in town.

Poupětova 1, Prague 7
www.dox.cz/en/premises-and-shops/designshop
open Mon 10:00-18:00, Wed & Fri 11:00–19:00, Thu 11:00-21:00, Sat & Sun 10:00–18:00
closed Tuesday

FUTURISTA

A unique gallery slash shop slash workshop spot right next to the Bethlehem Chapel, Futurista Universum strives to offer what’s freshest in the local design world. Go there for an impressive selection of contemporary jewelry with an edge, cheeky accessories, and beautiful minimalist glassware. Check the website for the list of current exhibitions.

Betlémské náměstí 5a, Prague 1
www.futurista.cz/en/stranka-o-nas-2
open Mon to Fri 11:00-18:30, Sat 10:00-18:30

BELDAFACTORY

A family-run business dating back to the 1920-s, BELDAFACTORY fuses classical, contemporary and quirky in their distinctive jewelry, wedding rings and tableware designs. Made by hand with metal, precious stones and enamel, these are offered in their very own shop in central Prague, along with selected works by other local artists. Unique glass and porcelain articles are also available.

Mikulandská 10, Prague 1
www.belda.cz/english
open Mon to Fri 11:00-18:00

Image: Kubista

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Your Best Getaway Ever In 4 Days

Now that the end of the year draws near, you are bound to have a few spare days. Here’s a great recommendation for spending a delightful long weekend in Gran Canaria. As you will see, it is time enough to get a good taste of one of the pearls of the Atlantic. Why wait to discover it? Four days on the island will yield any number of plans to take a well-earned break from your routine. Here, then, is a compendium of practical tips for making the most of your stay on the island.

Thursday

As soon as you leave the airport, your best bet is to head south and have your first weekend splash in the ocean. Maspalomas and Playa del Inglés await you with their large tracts of pale yellow sand where you can sunbathe safely all year around. If you’re looking to switch off real quick, take an adventurous stroll in the heart of the sand dunes or play golf on one of the quiet courses in the area.

Be sure to visit charming Puerto de Mogán, the ideal spot for promenading and savouring fresh fish in any of the restaurants at the seaside.

Friday

Begin the day by taking a route across the north of the island. And where better than to aim for the town of Arucas, where homes are harmoniously interspersed with banana plantations? Its most striking landmark is the Neogothic Church of San Juan Bautista, built with stone quarried in the municipality itself. Another highlight of your itinerary is the Arehucas rum factory, where the celebrated beverage is made in the oldest and largest rum distillery in Europe.

On the way to the north-western triangle of Gran Canaria, make a point of visiting the Gáldar Painted Cave, a museum and archaeological park based on a large native deposit. If you then press on towards the picturesque village of Agaete, you will marvel at the rugged rock formations adorning the coastline. Enjoy a sunset there and take time to upload to your social networks some stunning panoramas. Your main subject is likely to be the striking dragon’s tail plotted by the cliff faces which the ocean has eroded over millions of years.

Saturday

Time to discover Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, a modern, cosmopolitan capital city. Have a walk through Vegueta, the historic old town and stop over at the Christopher Columbus House Museum which boasts a valuable cultural legacy encapsulating the relationship which the island has maintained with the Americas for five centuries. The Calle Mayor de Triana has all you need for a busy shopping day, as it is lined with shops stocking both local brands and international labels.

The Pérez Galdós House Museum, where the universally acclaimed Canary Island writer was born, is another point of interest before heading to Las Canteras, one of the finest urban beaches in Spain. Open-air concerts are held there as part of the “Ruta Playa Viva” (Living Beach Route), one of the most attractive leisure proposals in the city.

Sunday

The rich natural heritage of Gran Canaria reaches its climax in the island’s interior. On Sunday you can drop in on the street markets to taste the best of local cuisine and choose a souvenir from among their regional craftwork. Devotion in Teror involves pampering the “Virgen del Pino” (Virgin of the Pine), the patron saint of the Canary Island diocese. This is where you start a climb up to Tejeda and Artenara.

A phenomenon known as the “sea of clouds” spreads out at your feet, in a breathtaking landscape which Miguel de Unamuno described as a “petrified storm”. Look out over the Roque Nublo and Roque Bentayga outcrops; then close your eyes and engrave that stunning picture in your mind’s eye forever. Why wait to experience it for yourself? Check out our flights here.

Images by the Patronato Turismo Gran Canaria

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Sky scraping Terraces in Madrid

After a long day visiting some of Madrid’s wonderful museums, delighting in its magnificent monuments, strolling along its streets (and getting lost) or just doing some shopping, we can certify that the best way of taking a breather – now that the good weather has arrived – is by taking in the views from the city’s heights while sipping on a refreshing beverage and savouring a culinary speciality. Here is our selection of some of the city’s best roof terraces to round off a long day’s work or sightseeing and to “kiss the Madrid sky”.

Círculo de Bellas Artes Rooftop

Currently all the rage, it is a must for anyone visiting Madrid. Just a few steps away from the Calle Alcalá, the marvellous views afforded by its rooftop are one of its major claims to fame – it is well worth the 4-euro admission fee. You can also indulge in their Tartan Roof culinary delicacies, crafted by their chef, Javier Muñoz-Calero.

Cibeles Terrace

Very near the Círculo de Bellas Artes, in Cibeles Square itself, stands the former Palacio de Telecomunicaciones which since 2011 is home to the Madrid City Hall and the CentroCentro cultural centre. For a 2-euro admission fee you can go up to the 8th-floor observation platform which offers 360° views of the city, with signs located at various spots on the terrace pinpointing Madrid’s major landmarks. Your visit can be enhanced by also stopping off on the sixth floor to access the Terraza Cibeles, where you can enjoy luxury cocktails accompanied by culinary delicacies while soaking up the splendid views. Be warned, though – the experience comes at a price (30 euros per head), and you are advised to book ahead.

Sabatini Terrace

Located on the rooftop of the Jardines de Sabatini Apartosuites, right opposite the Royal Palace, make a point of visiting their terrace merely to delight in the spectacular sunset extravaganza, with the palace in the background. You can embellish this stunning picture by ordering some delicious tapas and portions prepared by the chef, Chema de Isidro, and pair them with one of their wonderful cocktails. Advance booking is recommended.

El Viajero

In the heart of La Latina, right next to the popular Plaza de la Cebada, stands this two-storey bar-restaurant with a rooftop affording striking views of the Church of San Francisco. Their mojito is the star of the evening and you can accompany it with tasty pinchos and portions. This is the ideal spot to end off a long day’s sightseeing in the city and work up an appetite for the Madrilenian night.

Terraza del Urban

The icing on the cake of the luxury Hotel Urban – a five-star located in the Carrera de San Jerónimo – is this fantastic terrace, a summer classic in Madrid. Suitable for lovers of chic, you can also dip your feet in the pool while you savour some of their superb cocktails. While a bit on the expensive side, it is well worth the experience.

The Roof

Another hotel, the ME Hotel Madrid, is home to our next recommendation – The Roof. The roof terrace of this magnificent Modernist building is the perfect place to have a drink and enjoy the music while taking in some stunning views of the city backdrop.

Casa de Granada

Our last recommendation is situated next to the Plaza Tirso de Molina. To reach the roof terrace, you have to call on the intercom and go up in a narrow lift, but the ride ends with a reward – a splendid terrace offering finger-licking tapas in an interior with classical decor.

Now that you know where to secure some of the best views of Madrid, take a Vueling and experience them for yourself.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Ángela Ojeda Heyper

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