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Quest For the Best Bubbles in the Penedès

Half an hour south of Barcelona lies the Penedès DO wine region, primarily noted for being a leading producing centre of cava, one of Spain’s most celebrated sparkling wines. A mainstay of all major celebrations in the country, the origins of this “Catalan champagne” go back to the mid-19th century. French champagne arrived in the area around 1820 and a certain Luis Justo Villanueva of the Instituto Agrícola Catalán de San Isidro was one of the first vintners to try out and advocate the traditional champenoise method required to produce this innovative product. However, it was the Reus-based firm Soberano & Cía, run by Domènec Soberano i Mestres and Francesc Gil i Borràs, that first marketed the product, presenting it at the Paris World Fair of 1868.

Initially, the same grape variety was used as in champagne, but, owing to the phylloxera epidemic of 1887 which ravaged the local vines, the use of indigenous grape varieties was introduced, endowing the cava we know today with its distinctive personality. The main varieties are macabeo, parellada and xarel·lo.

It was originally known as champagne but, as a result of French champagne being awarded “protected geographical status” in 1972, the Catalan variety began to be called cava, named after the cellars (cavas) where the wine reposes during its production.

Well, what’s in it for anyone wishing to set out in search of those delicious bubbles? For starters, there is the product itself, a worthy equal to its French counterpart in terms of quality. And, those who are not particularly fond of sparkling beverages can always embark on tasting sessions of the region’s other wines, which deserve a section of their own. Then there is the scenery, characterised by vineyards stretching across the land and the proximity of the Mediterranean, in addition to the villages where the wine cellars are located. And, if you’re eager for still more, you can explore the region’s culinary offerings and the enotourism activities hosted there, noteworthy being the Wine and Cava Routes, a set of ten trails taking you through the different vineyards. What more could you ask for?

The town of Sant Sandurní d’Anoia is regarded as the “cava capital” of the DO Penedès wine region as 75% of the area’s production is concentrated here. It is thus a fitting point of departure for embarking on any route associated with this fine sparkling wine. You could make an initial stop at the Cava Interpretation Centre, a 1,200-square-metre space where you can learn about cava production, as well as its history, origins and other details.

Before or after visiting some of the wine cellars, we recommend taking a stroll in the town centre as a number of interesting Modernist buildings are located there. Noteworthy examples of such Art Nouveau edifices include the Lluís Mestres House, Cal Rigol, the Escoles Noves building and the headquarters of the Ateneu Agrícola.

Then comes the time for venturing into some of the myriad wineries in the town. Among the most popular is Cava Codorniu, which dates back to 1872. Apart from its cava, one of its standout features is the building itself, designed by the Modernist architect, Puig i Cadafalch. A curiosity you will discover on a visit to this winery are its 26 kilometres of underground cellars. The other great winery, of international fame, is Cava Freixenet, which first opened in 1861. The building, in Noucentista style with Modernist touches, is one of the leading works of the architect, Josep Ros Ros.

The following list features all the wineries and cavas making up the DO Penedès, showing their location and contact details, to help you plan a trip through the region and visit your favourites.

Make a point of striking a trail through the DO Penedès in search of its main cavas and wineries – book your Vueling to Barcelona here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Angela Llop, MARIA ROSA FERRE

 

 

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Yummy ice cream from Catania!

One of the experiences you can not miss if you visit Catania is to enjoy an authentic 'gelato' while you stroll through its streets and its monuments. Although the ice cream in Italy is an institution, the Sicilians are the most famous and it is one of the pillars of their food culture.

Its making has its own characteristics, with traditional recipes that have been passed from generation to generation, to obtain a softertextureand extraordinaryice cream flavors. Its traditional character is one of its greatest assetsand traditionalice creamandice-cream makers still use the same methods they have always used.

You'll notice thatthe ice creamis served inthe classic scoop, not with the device for forming balls to which we have become used. Try the Ernesto ones, in Via Ruggero di Lauria91-93,at the Pasticceria Quaranta, in Piazza Mancini Battaglia, or Pasticceria Gelateria Santo Musumeci on the Piazza SantaMaria, 9-10.

Artisanal granita

The ice cream is integrated in one of the most typical products of Catania, the 'broscia' or brioche. It is filled with countlessice cream flavors like pistachio, chocolate, caramel, lemon, strawberries, walnuts, hazelnuts, blackberry, tangerine or almonds.

Although granita is a typical Sicilian ice cream, it has little to do with the traditional Italian ice creams; it is similar toa slush but more creamy and refreshing, and is made with natural fruit. Idea lto start the day, especially in summer, being the typical Catanese breakfast.

The different flavors come from the rich products elaborated from the volcanic soil of Etna, mineral products that produce excellent lemons and oranges, tangerines, almonds, strawberries, cherries, hazelnuts and chestnuts. From these ingredients the maximum quality is respected without add in gscentsor preservatives.

But how do you recognizethe perfect granita? One ofthe featuresto look outis that their colorsare soft, which indicates that carries no dyes.For example, almond should be all white, and pistachio, will be more an off greenish, not garish green.

You also have to keep in mind that good granita should be consumed within a few hoursafter its preparation. Whenyou try it, make sure that the icehas not crystallizedor form spuddles.

You'll find the best ones in many places around Etnea street, but the ones from the Pasticceria Savia clearly stand out, one of the most prestigious pastry of Catania, located in Via Etnea 300. Or in the new Prestipino restaurant, located in Via Etnea 30-32, in the beautiful setting between Piazza Duomo and Piazza University.

Also in Etoile D'or from Via Beato Cardinale Giuseppe Benedetto Dusmet, 7, the Chocolate Cafe in Viale Ruggero di Lauria, 129, where you can taste their successful versions made of almonds and pistachios in the seafront. As in Café de Paris, in Viale Ruggero di Lauria, 25, one of the favorite places of the inhabitants of Catania.

One of the most centric and busy is the historical Cafe Europa in Italia, 302. A meeting place to try the essentials of Catanese cuisine. Here, in particular the most requested is their strawberry version.

So you feel like visiting Catania, do you? Book your flights here!

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A Stroll Through The Other Marseille

First, the bad news – Marseille is not Paris. Unlike its long-standing rival, France’s second largest city lacks top-drawer museums, stunning landmarks and hordes of Japanese tourists queueing up outside Louis Vuitton. The good news is that… Marseille is not Paris. Pampered by the Mediterranean, this city of radiant sunlight, with its multicultural population and suburbs in the very heart of the city, is so much of an oddity that it earned itself the nickname Planète Mars.

With one of the largest ports in the Mediterranean, a chaotic urban layout and an abiding reputation for being a decadent capital, Marseille is above all France’s enfant terrible, a noisy, dynamic city full of contrasts, where street hawkers take over the pavements, walls are smothered in graffiti, one’s clothes are impregnated with a brackish odour and the Olympique de Marseille is the mortar that binds it all together.

Apart from the usual tourist destinations, the tables have turned since it was voted European Capital of Culture in 2013. Zaha Hadid, Jean Nouvel and Norman Foster all have their state-of-the-art buildings on the snazzy waterfront esplanade. The bohemian way of life, however, is to be found inland and that is where we are heading. With a map in our pockets, we embark on our alternative, urban bobo tour of the capital of Provence!

At La Friche la Belle de Mai

An erstwhile tobacco factory at the Gare Saint-Charles is Marseille’s liveliest cultural centre. We have come to La Friche! Exhibition areas, artists’ ateliers, theatre, skating ramps and even a nursery rub shoulders here. All in one hybrid amalgam and in constant flux, focused on contemporary creation in a precinct where the communal spirit matches the extensive programme.

The huge roof terrace, which affords spectacular city views, is filled to bursting in summer, as it hosts parties with guest DJs and open-air cinema on Sundays. For the rest of the year the music never stops, while the Cabaret Aléatoire features sessions ranging from rock to hip-hop.

If you need to refuel, head for La Salle des Machines, a café-bookshop where you can have a café au lait while you leaf through a catalogue of the latest shows. But, if you’re actually feeling peckish, Les Grandes Tables is the place to go. Here, the menu changes each day, but they always have the classic steak tartare and Caesar salad. Mondays usher in a market of local produce and, as you well know, French markets are peerless.

Outside, alongside the warehouses and level with passing TGVs, the walls of a city park are daubed in graffiti proclaiming “Skateboarding is not a crime”. Here, skaters spin their tricks, while others play basketball, scale the climbing wall, play in the children’s area or work the land in the community allotment. That’s Marseille – a heterogeneous magma where everyone and everything become fused.

A few metres to the west, among the maze-like streets of La Belle de Mai, stands Le Gyptis Cinéma. Their (original version!) listings are as eclectic as the city itself, featuring thematic film cycles, classics, titles you won’t find on the Internet and children’s movies. The facade is peopled with portraits of neighbourhood characters, the upshot of a communal street-art programme designed to put a face to the locals.

And, with that image fixed in our mind’s eye, we head for Cours Julien, the hardcore urban Marsellais scene.

Around Cours Julien – Street Art & Urban Vibe

Alternative, carefree and colourful, the Cours Ju, as locals call it, is the in district right now. Take the metro to Notre Dame du Mont, although the climb up from the harbour is a heart-stopper. A district of artists, musicians and designers and the bastion of the ultra-modern bobo community (bobo, in French, is a nickname for “bourgeois-bohemian”), the Cours Ju is an endless string of trendy cafés, restaurants of all kinds, vintage stores and streets covered in full-colour graffiti.

The fact is that no other spot in the “Hexagone” can boast such a tour de force of urban art of this calibre. Streets fronts along Rue Vian, Pastoret and Bussy l’Indien are overrun by countless pamphleteering murals of a social nature, with references to pop culture or signs announcing the cafés hidden inside. Street art is clearly part of Marseille’s urban DNA, both rebellious and multicultural, as evinced in their well-known hip-hop – see this fast-paced video set to a local rap rhythm to get the idea.

Against this backdrop, every square metre of what is Marseille’s Kreuzberg is inundated with alternative art galleries, terraces, cafés and stores selling anything from apparel to household goods. The best approach is to venture carefree into the chaotic maze of pedestrian streets and let yourself get carried away by the relaxed atmosphere.

In the Cours itself, the multi-faceted concept store Oogie sells apparel and books, but also serves food and houses a hairdressing salon which hosts DJ parties. Nearby, La Licorne makes soaps using traditional methods and, in the rue Trois Frères Barthélémy, the Brasserie de la Plaine micro-brewery sells craft beer and has a bistro where you can wolf down the market-cuisine formule du jour or menu of the day, which usually consists of a starter, main course and dessert for around €10.

The trendiest spot par excellence is WAAW, on the rue Pastoret. Halfway between a bistro and a cultural centre, WAAW’s activities range from presentations to silk-screen print shops. It is also the best place to make a technical stop, order the dish of the day or stock up for the evening on a pastis or rosé when it’s time for the popular “apéro” – a pre-dinner aperitif.

Night time ushers in drinks and music. Sited in the Place Jean Jaurès, L’Intermédiaire is one of the best venues for live and DJ-set alternative music. Next door is Au Petit Nice, which offers a huge selection of beers in an inner patio where you can while away the hours. And, in La Dame Noir, hipsters queue up to get into the most sought-after club in the area.

As if that weren’t enough, a local producers’ market sets up shop in the Cours Ju every Wednesday morning. Stamp traders get their turn on Sundays, while second-hand books are sold every second Saturday in the month. The Marché de La Plaine, in the Place Jean Jaurès, is a market selling fruit and vegetables, cheese, fish, takeaway food, cheap footwear and accessories of all kinds on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings, while the flower market is held on Wednesdays.

The Cours Ju has a special something which grows on you! Get going and discover cosmopolitan Marseille – book your Vueling here!

Text by Núria Gurina i Puig for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Photos by Caroline Dutrey, Coralie Filippini, JeanneMenjoulet&Cie, marcovdz, Pop H

 

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What to see and do near Palma de Mallorca

The big boy of the Balearic Islands is packed with nature, landscapes, culture and cuisine, and it’s capital, Palma, is well worth a couple of days. We’ve come up with a few suggestions for things to do in and around Palma on your next visit.

We recommend hiring a car so you can get around at your own pace.

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