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Two hours in Hamburg

 By Marlys and Michael Easy Hiker

Let’s be totally honest about this: The best thing about Deutsche Bahn’s Across-the-Country 1-day rail pass (the “Quer-durchs-Land” ticket or QdL for short) is that it’s very cheap. 48 Euros for two people on any regional train in Germany: that’s an unbeatable offer.

Journeys take a little longer than on the fast IC trains, that much is for certain, and their trajectories may be slightly more convoluted, but that can be a benefit, too.

Recently, on our way back from a hike in the Mecklenburger Seenplatte, for example, we took the opportunity to break up what would otherwise have been a very long train journey to make a two-hour stop in Hamburg. Two hours in Hamburg are not a lot for such a big city, Germany’s largest after Berlin, but we had been there several times and knew where to go. In the end, we were surprised how many of the city’s main sites we were able to cover.

From the central train station, head straight (down Mönckebergstraße) for the so-called Binnenalster, Hamburg’s poshest mile. Along its banks, you can find some of Germany’s biggest private banks, most expensive hotels and fanciest restaurants.

The huge and opulent building on the artifical lake’s southern shore is Hamburg’s City Hall, built in the 19th century with the era’s typical sense for flash and grandeur.

Walk down past the Alsterfleet canal, underneath the Alsterarkaden colonnades, before turning right on Stadthausbrücke and heading for St Michael’s Church, Hamburg’s main landmark since it was built in the 17th century – famous not least because it was the first building of the city that many of her visitors, coming from the sea, were able to spot in the distance.

The church may look rather austere from the outside, but the interiors are as tacky as a West End theatre. (Entrance is free, but you are encouraged to donate €2 when you leave. Alternatively, you can squeeze by the burly lady who guards the exit door. Best to wait, probably, for one of the other tourists to distract her with a question – that’s what I did, anyway.)

The street on the right hand side of the church, by the way, leads you straight to St Pauli – Reeperbahn, Star Club and all that. (Unfortunately, we had no time for that.)

Instead, we turn left out of the church, past the modern offices of Gruner & Jahr, one of Germany’s largest publishing houses, in the direction of the harbour, one of the ten largest in the world.

Turn left to head for the Speicherstadt (“warehouse town”), my favourite part of Hamburg and one of Europe’s greatest works of 19th century architectural engineering, grand and graceful at the same time, a cross between Venice and London’s old docklands. The buildings were all warehouses once, of course, but are today mainly occupied by theatre companies, museums and tourist attractions such as the “Hamburg Dungeon”.

I could easily have spent the rest of the day walking from canal to canal, but there was no time. Instead, we took the subway train back to the city centre (if you have a Länderticket or a QdL Ticket, you are also free to use subways and S-Bahn trains) and had just about enough time for a quiet cup of coffee outside in the April sun on Mönckebergstraße, the city’s main shopping street, 5 minutes away from the central train station.

By Marlys and Michael Easy Hiker

 How about going to Hamburg? Have a look at our flights here!

 

 

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The Coolest Side of Birmingham

After a long day wandering around Birmingham, visiting its museums, discovering its industrial past and browsing in its shops, it is time to take a breather and enjoy the other side of the city – the more playful side, given over to flavours and experiences and to meeting its people. Not to be outdone by other destinations, Birmingham has many watering holes that break with the conventional, whether in their decoration, menu or location. Here is a selection of some of those which are well worth stopping at to replenish.

The Rose Villa Tavern
(172 Warstone Lane, Jewellery Quarter)

Located in the Jewellery Quarter, a must-see district, as it concentrates the largest number of jewellery stores in Europe. This pub is the perfect marriage between tradition and modernity. The interior is decorated with stained-glass windows, strikingly coloured floor tiles and the classical collection of wooden fixtures and vintage furniture charmingly highlighted in coloured tinges. The menu features traditional American food, accompanied by homemade beer and magnificent cocktails.

The Jekyll and Hyde
(28 Steelhouse Lane)

Endowed with two distinct personalities and, to do its name proud, this bar contains two well differentiated areas. The interior, distributed on two floors, is a classic Victorian-era pub. Hidden at the back of the first floor is a small outside patio with decoration that cannot fail to catch your attention, as it is inspired by Alice in Wonderland. But, there is more. In the afternoon you can have tea and a selection of homemade sandwiches and cakes. If, however, you are inclined towards stronger stuff, you can go for the cocktails served in unusual vessels. On Fridays they open the upstairs Gin Parlour, which features a large variety of gin brands and gin cocktails.

The Plough
(21 High St, Harborne)

The Plough is an inviting, modern bar. The interior is decorated with a profusion of details, many of vintage inspiration, such as the lamps, tables and floor tiles. The other forte is their patio which, weather permitting, you should not fail to visit. This is the perfect spot for having a brunch based on gourmet hamburgers, homemade pizzas or just some beer, while soaking up the patio ambience.

The Victoria
(48 John Bright Street)

This 19th-century theatre bar is located in the city centre and is the ideal spot for winding up a long day’s outing by having a pizza and a good homemade beer. As a curiosity, film- and music-lovers can put their knowledge to the test at the “Sound and Vision” contest held every Tuesday afternoon. By the way – keep your eyes skinned because they say there’s a ghost lurking in the walls of the bar!

Sugarloaf
(12 Bennett’s Hill)

A bar inside a restaurant? Well, yes, Sugarloaf is a Mexican-themed bar tucked away on the lower floor under the Mexican cantina, Bodega, which also features Mexico as the theme on its menu. It opens Wednesday to Saturday and, in addition to the classic, essential skulls ornamenting the locale, you will find tequila and mescal cocktails and DJ sessions.

PureCraft Bar & Kitchen
(30 Waterloo St)

This establishment, which specialises in homemade beer – of which you will find an extensive domestic and international list – is simply decorated, with a certain industrial air about it. Don’t hesitate to augment your pint by ordering one of their dishes, based on British cuisine and using local produce, with a refined touch and impeccable presentation.

Fancy exploring the coolest, tastiest  side of Birmingham? Get your tickets here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by The Rose Villa Tavern, The Jekyll and Hyde, The Plough, Bodega Cantina, Pure Craft Bar & Kitchen

 

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From Dubrovnik to Zagreb (via Split)

If you visit Croatia, there is a way to go across the country, from south to north (or the other way around), in less than two weeks and visiting its three most interesting cities:

Dubrovnik (south), Zagreb (north) y Split (in the middle).

Dubrovnik

To get downtown from the airport, take a taxi (30-40€) or the buses from ATLAS company which drive regularly through the 20 km. from the airport to the city centre.

In the old town, do not miss the wall, the Franciscan Monastery with a pharmacy from 14th century, Lovrijencac Fountaine, Onofrio Fountain or Luza Square, and its surroundings. If you need more information or maps, the nearest Tourism Office is on Brsalje Street.

From the city, go and visit the Korcula island, the National Park of Mjle island or the Elafit islansi. The city of Ston and its Chinese wall or the medieval city Cavtat are other destinations near Dubrovnik. You can get to all these islands and cities by ferries or bus.

To get to the next destination, Split, there are buses mostly every hour, doing 223km. between both cities.

Split

Walking around the old town or the Palace of Diocletian, UNESCO heritage, is the first thing you should do when you arrive to the city. After the palace, take a walk in the seafront by the Adriatic sea. From Split you can visit Brac islands, Hvar or Vis, accesible by ferry, sailboat or fast boats.

Roman ruins from old Salona (Solin nowadays) are only 10 km. away from Split and are one of the most important archaeological sites in the country. Trogir, 28 km north, is also UNESCO heritage. To get there, there are buses and boats from the seafront. Finally, by the end of Cetina river, you can find a pinturesque village, Omis, 24 km. south and connected by bus to the city.

Before the final destination, Zagreb, Sibenik is 88 km. away and you can get there by bus or train. Do not miss its streets and the Santiago Cathedral, a UNESCO heritage. The Plitvice National Park is also near and the most known in Croatia. 16 lakes connected by waterfalls, you can sped from 3 to 8 hors walking around the spot. In the park there are hotels and two camping areas. It’s convenient to book previously.

Zagreb

Just arrived to Zagreb, a city with more than 40 museums, including Broken relationships Museum, Mimara Museumor Naif Art Museum.

“Uptown” you can visit Ban Josip Jelacic Square, Dolac Market, Katarina square or the J.J. Strossmayer Avenue.”Downtown” there are squares dedicated to Nikola Subic Zrinski, to the king Tomislav, or to Mariscal Tito. Finally, in the city centre, there are Contemporary Art Museum, el Bundek park, Jarun lake, Mirogoj cementery or Maksimir Park.

To get to Zagreb airport, 17 km. from the city centre, take the bus for 4,10€ or taxi for 30-40€.

Photos by Stewart Morris, Elena and Delaina Haslam. Thanks to the Croatian Tourism Office for the information.

A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.

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Avignon is Culture, Its Bridge Notwithstanding

No bridge seems to be as famous as the one in Avignon, the central theme of one of the best known children’s songs in France. Indeed, it has been sung in virtually all languages – local guides can even sing it in Japanese – so it comes as no surprise that anyone arriving at the battered Pont Saint-Bénézet is likely to sing the song or even dance it. This structure, twice destroyed by flooding along the Rhone, has become an icon of this Provençal city and its ambassador par excellence, earning it universal fame.

Apart from its bridge, Avignon, which is just an hour’s drive from Marseille, is a historic city, having once been the capital of Christendom and the centrepiece in one of the major schisms in the Catholic Church. Dating from that period is the formidable Papal Palace, the largest known Gothic palace. In the 14th century it witnessed a cultural and economic Renaissance that saw the arrival of bankers, artists and writers from all over Europe in a quest to be near the papal orbit – Petrarch was one of them.

But, it was not until five centuries later that Avignon again became a beacon of intellectual activity.  1947 saw the birth of the Avignon Festival, France’s longest-standing and most celebrated event devoted to theatre and the scenic arts and one of the most firmly rooted festivals in Europe. This year it runs into its 70th edition and will be held from 6 to 24 July at more than 30 venues.

A turning point in the Festival’s schedule of events came in the year 2000 when Avignon was designated the European Capital of Culture. Then ensued a cultural revival in this, the major population centre in the department of Vaucluse – set in the new region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur – as attested by the opening of the Lambert Collection – Museum of Contemporary Art, set up in 2000 around a historic endowment by the merchant and collector, Yvon Lambert. The endowment is admirable and comprehensive and features permanent exhibitions showcasing the work of Jean-Michel Basquiat, Sol LeWitt, Douglas Gordon and the ever-controversial photographer, Andrés Serrano, among other artists, as well as numerous temporary exhibitions.

Avignon has ten museums in all, prominent among them being the Musée du Petit Palais, with a large collection of medieval painting, the Calvet Museum, the Musée Angladon, dedicated to Impressionism, and the Musée Louis-Vouland, which specialises in the decorative arts. There is also an opera theatre, an exhibition park and some unique facilities like La FabricA, a theatre factory where various companies rehearse their performances in the run-up to the Avignon Festival.

Art is also present in Les Halles Market, endowed with a stunning vertical garden created by the artist, Patrick Blanc. This market is the ideal spot for buying fresh produce and Provençal specialities at one of their forty plus stores.

It would be amiss to end this article without recommending some of the venues for eating the tastiest food in Avignon. One is Maison de Fogasses, a splendid town palace which offers an exquisite menu of the day for around 20 euros based on locally sourced products. Another is LE 46 which specialises in French cuisine with Mediterranean flourishes.

Avignon is the perfect destination for a getaway from Marseille. Check out your flights to Marseille here.

Text by Tus Destinos

Images by Tus Destinos, Avignon-Tourisme (C.Rodde)

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