Gustav Klimts Vienna
It would be impossible to imagine 20th-century Vienna without the amazing art legacy of Gustav Klimt (1862-1918). While his primary subjects were the female nude and portraits of Vienna’s high society, the works of this symbolist painter continue to fascinate experts and amateurs alike. Today we tour Vienna in search of the oeuvre of one of the most compelling painters of all times.
“To Every Age its Art, to Every Art its Freedom”
The best way to come to grips with Klimt’s legacy in Vienna is by starting at the building of the Vienna Secession, designed by Joseph Maria Olbrich and sited at 12 Friedrichstrasse. A dome festooned with laurel leaves crowns a facade which bears the motto of the Secession, “To Every Age its Art, to Every Art its Freedom”. The motto is accompanied by a frieze created by Klimt in 1902 as a tribute to Ludwig van Beethoven. Visitors to the building were greeted by the Beethoven Frieze, one of his most celebrated works. Measuring 34 metres long by 2.15 metres high, it was not put on public display again until 1986.
This famous painting recalling Wagner conducting Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony was actually intended for a temporary exhibition, but was saved from destruction by a collector. It was divided up and acquired by the Austrian state again in 1973, and exhibited once more as of 1986.
After the Vienna Secession building, our next stop is the must-visit Museum of Art History (Kunsthistorisches Museum). After entering, as you go up the staircase, look up at the 40 paintings on the columns and arches executed by the three artists making up the so-called Society of Artists, whose members were Gustav Klimt, his brother Ernst and Franz Matsch.
The Burgtheater
After completing their work at the Museum, the Society of Artists was commissioned to execute a number of frescoes on the two staircases of the Burgtheater (Universitätsring, 2). The project was so successful that the painters were decorated by Emperor Franz Josef. On the main staircase, Klimt recreated the Theatre in Taormina, while on the other he provided a depiction of the Globe Theatre in London featuring the final scene from Shakespeare’s "Romeo and Juliet." This work includes what is regarded as the only self-portrait he ever painted.
A stone’s throw from the Burgtheater lies the Karlsplatz, one of the city’s nerve centres, which boasts some of the most famous buildings of the Vienna Secession. Prominent landmarks include the Otto Wagner Pavilion (built in 1900 for the Vienna Metro lines), the Künstlerhaus and the Art History Museum, which houses some of Klimt’s works, notably Pallas Athene and a portrait of Emilie Flöge. He was very attached to Emilie, his sister-in-law, although there is no evidence that they romanced, as some claim. He also painted many other women, including Maria Zimmermann (Mizzi), Johanna Staude and Adele Bloch-Bauer, of whom he did two portraits.
The Belvedere
The Belvedere Palace Museum houses some of Klimt’s most acclaimed paintings, chiefly two icons of his “Golden Phase” – The Kiss and Judith I. Gustav’s father and brother were gold engravers, which accounts for his foray into golden ornamentation and his use of gold leaf. The Belvedere houses more works by Klimt than any other gallery – twenty-four, in all. However, you should also make a point of visiting the Leopold Museum, in the heart of the Museumsquartier (MQ). Displayed alongside works by Schiele are Klimt’s Death and Life, in addition to a study for Judith II and a view of Lake Atter.
Villa Klimt
Gustav Klimt had several studios during his lifetime, but the only one which has survived to the present is where he spent the last few years of his life. The Klimt Villa, situated on the Feldmühlgasse 11, was re-opened to the public in 2012 after being rebuilt from period photos. While it does not house original works, it provides an interesting insight into the life of this universal artist.
Don’t pass up the chance to discover the work of Gustav Klimt – book your Vueling here.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more infoMadrid’s Gastronomic Markets Route
It’s a fact that gastronomy is in vogue in Madrid, as we saw for ourselves on our recent trip to the capital. The classical, long-standing bars, restaurants and fondas have been augmented by new venues for enjoying good food and drink – gastrobars, gastroclubs, gastronomic events and gastronomic markets. It was this latter concept we investigated on our trip, with very rewarding and tasty results, too.
Market of San Miguel. Or how to pamper yourself at a unique venue.
(Plaza de San Miguel, s/n)
Located next to the Plaza Mayor, this is definitely the tourists’ choice. Housed in a unique building, it is Madrid’s only surviving ironwork market. Renovated in 2009 and turned into a gastronomic precinct, it still preserves its original charm from the time it was built, in 1916. Inside you will find mainly Spanish haute cuisine. Taste the delicate cheeses and sausage, enjoy the specialities of a Madrid classic like the Lhardy, choose from a large assortment of croquettes, savour the tapas in the Pescado Original, have an aperitif at La Hora del Vermut and a delicious array of etceteras.
Market of San Antón. Chueca’s cultural and gastronomic space.
(C/ Augusto Figueroa, 24)
Located in the heart of the Chueca district, it is divided into three distinct sections. The market itself, which offers first-rate fare, is located on the first floor. The gastronomic section, where you can taste the cuisine of different regions (Canary Islands), countries (Japan, Greece) and specialities (seafood, roast chicken) is on the second floor. The third floor features a magnificent lounge-terrace where you can enjoy the views while sipping a cocktail. Also sited there is the restaurant, La cocina de San Antón, where we recommend you pick a cooking, by which you select the meat or fish you want in the market and they will cook it for you in the restaurant, accompanied by whatever side dish you choose from the menu.
San Ildefonso Market. Taking a breather during your shopping spree.
(Fuencarral, 57)
Smaller than the previous two markets, it can go unnoticed on the Fuencarral shopping street. Once inside, go up to the first floor, where you will come to a small but inviting area, inspired by London or New York street markets, with an array of different gastronomic stalls. You can have a gourmet hamburger at Gancho Directo, nibble at the cured Iberian ham at Arturo Sánchez, taste a brochette at La Brochette, or have the finger-licking egg dishes at La Granja Malasaña. The atmosphere is young and modern, in keeping with the Malasaña district it is located in. There is also an interior patio for those who like to have a beer and a smoke, and a bar counter where you can try their cocktails.
El Huerto de Lucas. For organic lovers.
(C/ San Lucas 13)
A small market specialising in the sale of organic produce, which also features La Cantina, where you can taste the magnificent wares displayed in their stalls. Here, the food is not the only organic element – so, too, is the architectural project, completed by Paula Rosales’ More&Co studio. The space is designed to minimise environmental impact, both in terms of construction and its day-to-day operation. We were impressed with the hanging bosque de cintas (forest of ribbons) and the warm decor.
Platea Market. Fanfare and haute cuisine in Serrano.
(Goya 5-7)
Set aside from the rest, this erstwhile cinema – that was its original mission – was converted into a space dedicated to gastronomic leisure. The former Carlos III cinema was remodelled by the interior designer, Lázaro Rosa-Violán, as an array of restaurants for tasting haute cuisine. No less than six Michelin stars and twelve Repsol suns have been awarded to the chefs that work there, which include such celebrities as Paco Roncero, Pepe Solla, Ramón Freixa and Marcos Morán. Two storeys, three stalls and a section specialising in confectionery to immerse yourself in and enjoy, not only the food and drink, but also the live music and DJ sessions.
Wouldn’t you just love to dive into this flavour-filled world? Check out our Madrid flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación and Mercado Platea
more infoRome On Celluloid
The Eternal City is also a city of celluloid. From Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn’s Vespa ride, to Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni’s dip in the Fontana di Trevi, Rome has been the backdrop of some of the most iconic sequences in cinema history. We embark on a celluloid tour of the capital of Italy while recalling the best movies that featured Rome as one of their protagonists.
To Rome With Love (Woody Allen, 2012)
Woody Allen stands out as one of the filmmakers who has most successfully captured the essence of New York. However, in recent years, the indispensable American director went on a pilgrimage that led him to film in London, Barcelona, Paris and Rome. One of the most outstanding movies from his European tour, To Rome With Love, revolves around Monti, a district of Rome which shook off its unsavoury past and became one of the liveliest areas in the city. The film also captures the beauty of other spots, notably the Via dei Neofiti, the Piazza della Madonna dei Monti and the popular Bottega del Caffè.
Bicycle Thieves (Vittorio de Sica, 1948)
A masterpiece of Italian Neorealism, a style which in the first half of the 20th century yielded some of the milestones in cinema history through its stark portrayal of mundane, everyday life. Lamberto Maggiorani, an unemployed construction worker and untrained newcomer to acting, breathes life into the character of Antonio Ricci, who has his bicycle stolen during his first day’s work posting advertising bills. While chasing the thief, Lamberto runs through the popular quarters of Trastevere and Porta Portese.
La Dolce Vita (Federico Fellini, 1960)
One of Federico Fellini’s heights of creativity and one of the most accurate cinema depictions of Rome’s character – particularly as it was in the 1950s, with its post-war mixture of glamour and humdrum genre life. Marcello Mastroianni stars as Marcello Rubini, a gossip magazine journalist who follows the great film star Sylvia wherever she goes (especially on her night outings), the role played by a mesmerising Anita Ekberg. Although such landmarks as the Piazza del Popolo, Via Veneto and Piazza Barberini feature in La Dolce Vita, the movie will always be remembered for the scene at the Fontana di Trevi.
The Great Beauty (Paolo Sorrentino, 2013)
Awarded the Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film in 2014, Paolo Sorrentino’s The Great Beauty is the 21st century’s La Dolce Vita. Enveloped in a fascinating surrealistic aura, seldom has Rome glittered so exuberantly on celluloid. You simple cannot help falling for Rome as seen through the gaze of Sorrentino as it settles on the Piazza Navona, Baths of Caracalla, Villa Medici, Palazzo Colonna, the Colosseum, Gianicolo, the Tempietto di Bramante and the Orange Garden.
Night On Earth (Jim Jarmusch, 1991)
Roberto Benigni plays an eccentric cabbie, the main star of the Rome vignette of Jim Jarmusch’s Night On Earth.This is a collection of five vignettes with stories set in Los Angeles, New York, Paris, Helsinki and Rome. In the episode set against the backdrop of the Eternal City, Benigni picks up a priest in the early hours and drives him through some of the best known settings in the city, notably the Colosseum, while making a hilarious confession of his sex life.
Rome, Open City (Roberto Rossellini, 1945)
Another essential film of mid-20th-century Italian Neorealism. Inspired by the true story of the priest, Giuseppe Morosini, who was tortured and murdered by the Nazis for having helped the partisans. Filmed in the district of Prenestina the same year World War II ended, Rome, Open City lays bare the physical and moral wounds left by the conflict on the streets of the Eternal City and in the spirit of its people. And, amid so much suffering, a masterful Anna Magnani.
Dear Diary (Nanni Moretti, 1993)
With Dear Diary, this Trans Alpine Woody Allen executed one of his most widely acclaimed films. A semi-autobiographical comedy in the guise of a documentary, it recalls the director’s experiences in three chapters – On My Vespa, Islands and Doctors.In the first of these, Moretti rides his scooter through Rome’s everyday settings in August, providing a different take on the Italian capital. One unforgettable moment shows Moretti dancing with his running Vespa.
Roman Holiday (William Wyler, 1953)
However, the prize for iconic scooter tours of Rome goes to Roman Holiday, starring Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn. It marks a sublime moment in the history of cinema, particularly the scene on the Spanish Steps or the sequence shot at the Bocca della Verità. The winner of three Oscars, this movie marked Rome’s ascendency as a city of cinema.
Book your Vueling to Rome here and let yourself be bewitched by this celluloid city.
Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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Ten Must-Sees in Jerusalem
Realising that you are walking in one of the oldest cities on earth is awe-inspiring. Here are ten pointers to understanding and enjoying this fascinating yet complex city, bearing in mind that biblical, epic and historical landmarks are a constant in this metropolis, where religion has pulsated since time immemorial.
1. To get a feel for the size and layout of Jerusalem, we shall start our tour on the Mount of Olives, affording one of the best panoramic views of the city – the old city, the new city, the walls, tombs… thousands of years of history at a simple glance.
2. On the way down, stop off at Gethsemane and stroll through the groves of millennial olive trees. Then, visit the Church of All Nations, built on the rock where Jesus prayed before being arrested.
3. To come to grips with Jerusalem, it is essential to understand it is “thrice-holy”; that is, sacred to the three great monotheistic religions. Judaism, Christianity and Islam have part of their roots in these backstreets. The Wailing Wall, the Al-Aqsa mosque and the Holy Sepulchre are three landmarks you should not fail to visit, whatever your beliefs. Let’s start with the Wailing Wall or Western Wall, the only remaining vestige of Jerusalem’s Second Temple, the holiest of Jewish places, which was destroyed by the Romans in AD 70. You have to pass through several security checks on the way in. Once inside, men on one side and women on the other. Men must also cover their heads with a Jewish kippah or skullcap.
You are met by a unique, striking setting – hundreds of people facing the wall and rocking to and fro as they pray. If you look up, you see the Esplanade of the Mosques, another privileged vantage point with Jerusalem at your feet. Here, the two striking landmarks are the Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock, the latter built on the spot where it is believed that Muhammad rose into paradise. Its crowning gold dome has become a veritable symbol. The esplanade is also a reference point for both Jews and Christians as it was here that Abraham was about to sacrifice his son, Isaac. For Christians the holiest place is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Built on Mount Golgotha (Calvary), this is the spot where Jesus died on the Cross. It is also the site of his sepulchre or burial place, where he was resurrected on the third day. Also preserved is the Stone of Anointing, where Christ’s lifeless body rested. Many landmarks and endless queues; you need to be patient.
4. But, not everything is religion. Jerusalem also features examples of the avant-garde and some upmarket shopping precincts. If you walk along Mamilla Mall, judging by the brands on display there, you could easily be in London or Paris. Access to the mall is via the Jaffa Gate – have your visa ready!
5. The Mamilla is also Jerusalem’s first designer hotel, and a sanctuary for sybarites who relish sleeping against the backdrop of the old city walls and David’s Tower. Mamilla Hotel is a blend of the eternal and the avant-garde – millennial stone walls and metal headboards and, as a plus, a miraculous spa and a gourmet restaurant with privileged views.
6. Those with classical taste will perhaps prefer the King David, the epitome of a grand hotel. Once the headquarters of the British Mandate, the hotel now excels as a luxury establishment which has seen such illustrious overnighters as King Felipe and Queen Letizia, the Prince of Wales, Barack Obama, Nicolas Sarkozy and Margaret Thatcher and, from the world of celebrity fame, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Richard Gere and Madonna. The sober exterior of the hotel contrasts with the elegant, modern interior and the comfortable rooms. Prices are in keeping with the standing of its prestigious customers.
7. We head back to the old city to tour the Jewish, Christian, Muslim and Armenian quarters. In all these precincts the shops are well-stocked – food, a variety of souvenirs, perfumes, confectionery, religious objects, T-shirts and antiquities worth thousands of euros, including Roman coins, vessels from Christ’s time… If you can’t afford them, that shouldn’t put you off soaking up the charm of these alleyways and their people from all religions, races and cultures. Jerusalem’s old city is a melting pot thronging with Orthodox and non-Orthodox Jews, Arabs, Christians, Westerners, Asians… Where bells chime and muezzins call to prayer.
8. A colourful and more affordable alternative is the local Mahane Yehuda market but, be warned – don’t go there on Shabbat (the Sabbath) as it is the Jewish holy day. The city comes to a standstill at sunset on Friday until sunset on Saturday, an important detail to remember when planning your trip.
9. Before leaving Jerusalem, make sure you visit at least two of its museums. Yad Vashem is the Holocaust memorial, a world centre of documentation, research, education and commemoration, while the Israel Museum is where the Dead Sea Scrolls are on display, the oldest biblical manuscript in the world, as is an amazing mock-up of historical Jerusalem, which will help you understand the city.
10. To round off your trip, make your farewell from Mount Scopus where, in addition to viewing the skyline of the old city, you will also see the waters of the Dead Sea, another of those places worth visiting at least once in a lifetime.
What more could you ask for? Check out our flights here.
Text and images by Nani Arenas
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