The region of Chianti stretches between Arezzo and the Colline Pisane. Regarded as the heart of Tuscany since time immemorial, it is made up of a number of grand landscapes dotted with vineyards, chestnut and holm oak forests, evocative medieval villages, romantic castles and fascinating colonial-style palaces. To crown it all, this is also the land that produces one of the finest wines in the world – Chianti.

A Route Through Chianti

Arriving from Florence, the customary approach road through this wine country takes visitors to the pretty town of Impruneta – in all, a 40-minute car ride. We were captivated by Impruneta on account of its numerous monuments, notably the crenellated belltower from the 13th century and the Basilica of Santa Maria with its Treasure Museum in the annex. Two events of international acclaim are held in these surroundings – the Fiera di San Luca (St Luke’s Fair) and the Festa dell'Uva (Grape Festival) with a traditional parade of allegorical floats. Both festivals are held in autumn.

While heading for Siena we stopped at the old medieval town of Greve in Chianti, which features a triangular public square. It is fringed by buildings and loggias which led us willy-nilly to the Church of Santa Croce. The most important wine fair in all Chianti is held precisely in this square. We then went for a stroll through the upper part of Greve, home to Montefioralle Castle which forms part of the old fortified town.

After passing briefly through the medieval village of Volpaia, we found ourselves in Radda. There we visited the 14th-century Church of San Niccolò and the majestic Palazzo Pretorio (dating from circa 1415). We then made for the parish Church of San Giusto in Salcio, located in a luxuriant hollow set between vineyards, and that of Santa Maria Novella with its characteristic Romanesque facade. As soon as we left, we went straight to the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico (Consortium of Classic Chianti Wine) which includes the Chiantigiano Study Centre.

Our journey continued across the Chianti hills where we came across panoramas that would take Instagram by storm. We passed through Gaiole, halfway between Florence and Siena and, as we were leaving the town, we stumbled upon some spectacular scenery of vineyards and castles, like those in San Leonino and Fonterutoli.

After leaving the Sienese town we approached Castellina, a stronghold of Etruscan origin with its beautiful central square traversed by the medieval Via delle Volte. From there we went to Monteriggione, a twenty-minute car ride away, built on a hillside and endowed with a compact, walled fortification.

Lastly, we stopped off at the splendid Poggibonsi, a town which holds its grape-treading festival in October.

The Wine

There is a large variety of Chianti wines on account of the peculiarities of local soils and the different production methods in each area or winery. Varying percentages of the same grape yield the leading names – Sangiovese (75-90%), Canaiolo (5-10%) and Malvasia (5-10%), the perfect composition hit upon by Baron Ricasoli in the 19th century to which Tuscan Trebbiano was subsequently added. Here the tradition is so deeply rooted that one can pick out the croplands planted with the different grape varieties.

The method of cultivation, known as L'Arco Toscana, takes place on clayey galestro soil which is porous and permeable and prevents water from collecting around the roots. A characteristic of the post-harvest period is that the grape clusters on some vines appear to have been overlooked, although this is actually part of a centuries-old “control” method. It consists of adding fresh raisin must to fermented wine to induce refermenting, by which all the sugar is converted into alcohol, yielding a particularly dry, stable wine.

After fermenting, the wines continue to be refined until March in steel casks or cement and, once bottled, are ready to be marketed.

Chianti has a characteristic fiery, ruby-red colour. The aroma is intense, with dominant violet, iris and vanilla, while the bouquet is harmonious and dry, with reminiscences of vanilla and almond. The experts claim it ages into a smoother, more velvety wine.

Chianti is a prefect table wine – the aged varieties and reserves pair with red meat, game and spicy cheeses. It is served at room temperature. As for local cuisine, typical Tuscan dishes include ribollita, its main ingredients being cooked vegetables left over from previous meals which are reboiled, augmented with dry bread and dressed with extra virgin olive oil. Another classic in the region are the antipasti such as chicken liver crostini, tomato bruschetta and Sienese capocollo,known locally as finocchiata.

Despite its location on the shores of the icy North Sea, Hamburg is an ebullient city – and Germany’s second largest – while St. Pauli is its hottest quarter. It is articulated around a main avenue, the Reeperbahn, a risque, bacchanalian precinct, site of the red light district and a trove of highly recommendable temptations. From the iconic Schmidt Tivoli theatre to the Millerntor-Stadion, home to the endearing FC St. Pauli, we lift the veil on all the allurements of Sankt Pauli.

Angie’s Nightclub
Located on the upper floor of the Schmidt Tivoli is Angie’s Nightclub, one of the most popular clubs of Sankt Pauli’s night scene. Founded by the soul singer Angie Stardust in the 90s, the resident band features a different guest vocalist every night, often a leading figure in Germany’s music scene or on the international arena. Next you may proceed to Mojo Club, a live music venue tucked away amid the underground of Sankt Pauli’s iconic Dancing Towers, or to either the Klubhaus or Golem, two multi-space locales with an invariably interesting entertainment schedule crammed with concerts, movies and theatre plays. To round off your evening, you could head for the Golden Pudel Club (currently undergoing repair work after being ravaged by fire). Set on the banks of the Elbe, not far from the Fischmarkt, on the outside it looks like some unassuming fairy-tale house but it is actually the temple of electronic music where the dancing goes on until dawn.

Davidwache
At the intersection of the Spielbudenplatz and Davidstraße, hard by the Reeperbahn, stands Davidwache, probably the best known police station in Europe, with its own fan club! And, for its location, one of the busiest in Europe, too. Dating from 1840, the building has appeared in countless films and television series, while its cells have seen both small-time crooks and celebrities of the calibre of Paul McCartney and Pete Best held in custody.

Landungsbrücken
The Landungsbrücken, also known as theSt. Pauli Piers, is Hamburg’s old harbour terminal, situated on the banks of the river Elbe. It was once northern Europe’s port of departure to the New World and some five million people are estimated to have set sail from here, bound for a new life in America. Not far from here stands the Fischmarkt or fish market. In winter, it opens at 7 a.m. and in summer at 5 a.m. and immediately fills up with locals, tourists and hawkers as the fish auction gets under way. The brunch served on Sundays at various restaurants in the Fischmarkt is simply wonderful.

Millerntor-Stadion
The modest yet great FC St. Pauli is a reflection of the neighbourhood spirit and a last refuge of grass-roots football. Their principles advocate against xenophobia, fascism and sexism and the team is a favourite among both Germans and all over the world. They come out onto the pitch brandishing the Jolly Roger as their banner, with Hells Bells by AC/DC played over the PA system, while Song 2 by Blur sounds out whenever the side scores. Watching a match at the Millerntor-Stadion is truly an experience that goes beyond that of just a sporting event.

Reeperbahn
This is the main thoroughfare running through Sankt Pauli and one of the most ribald avenues in the world. Like Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, it has two faces. By day, crowds jostle about doing their shopping or going out for a coffee. By night, the neon signs of the discos, night clubs, cabarets and sex shops light up. Mid-way between Barcelona’s Las Ramblas of the 1980s and Las Vegas, whatever transpires in Reeperbahn stays put within the neighbourhood. Local curiosities include the Beatles Platz, a square commemorating the passage of The Beatles through the city in their early years, when they performed at such venues as Star-Club, Kaiserkeller, Top Ten and Indra. Then there is The Reeperbahn Festival, which has been held each year at the end of September since 2006. Its programme features hundreds of concerts and the festival is a beacon for the music industry on an international level.

Schmidt Tivoli
With its old-world, slight seedy charm, the Schmidt Tivoli is the variety theatre par excellence in Hamburg’s red light district. Be sure to get tickets to the midnight show, when the ambience is more risque than during the afternoon or evening sessions. If you can’t get hold of a ticket, there are many other theatres and cabarets in Sankt Pauli to choose from, including the Operettenhaus, which specialises in musicals, the more conventional St. Pauli Theater, which has been operating since 1841, and the Imperial Theater.

Superbude Hotel Hostel
With its colourful designer rooms done out in fully recycled furniture, the Superbude is Hamburg’s hipster hotel for those who like to stay the night and be able to boast about being a trendy. A more conventional option is the EAST, housed in a former factory. Its stands out for its aesthetic, combining strains of the Far East with a Western industrial look. Be sure to have a meal in their restaurant, one of the best in St. Pauli.

Book your Vueling to Hamburg and revel in a district with possibly the liveliest night life in Europe.

Text by Oriol Rodríguez

Images by Heiko S, Wojtek Szkutnik, Itti, Reading Tom, David Coggins, abbilder 

The upcoming 14th International Beefeater In-Edit Music Documentary Festival will be featuring the best music documentaries from the past and present. This time around, what caught our attention is the large number of punk-related documentaries. No wonder, as we happen to be celebrating the fortieth anniversary of this genre. You heard it – forty years have passed since a group of mates got together and crafted a band to start a riot. And, indeed they did. The Sex Pistols lit the fuse in late 1976 and, just two years later, the musical paradigm had changed radically. The system was transformed from a scene dominated by intellectualised, ultra-professional hard rock and progressive rock bands such as Deep Purple, Led Zeppelin, Genesis or Emerson, Lake and Palmer, into another, totally alternative and largely amateur scene. And, London was the nerve centre of this new circus act.

Some documentaries dealing with this genre will feature at this year’s In-Edit Festival. Check out the programme here. Following is a rundown of the documentaries in which London acted as the backdrop. It’s amazing to see what the City was like at such a major turning point in its history, just when it it seemed more like a time bomb on the verge of blowing up, on account of the wrangling between different political trends and the high unemployment rate, particularly among young people. Remind you of anything?

Jubilee (Derek Jarman, 1978)

Rather than a documentary, this is actually a feature film, albeit 100% punk. Its director skilfully captured the spirit of the moment in this marvellous dystopian movie in which Elizabeth I travels 400 years into the future and lands in a desolate, nihilist Britannia where gangs of evil girls and killer police roam the streets.

The Filth And The Fury (Julien Temple, 2000)

Set at the pinnacle of this documentary genre, this film was a watershed in its day. It does true-to-life justice to the story of the Sex Pistols, the band which caused a sea change that rocked the foundations of the music industry in just one and a half years. The documentary is crammed with references to the punk scene in London. Highly recommended.

Rough Cut Ready Dubbed (Hasan Shah and Dom Shaw, 1982)

This film documents the post-punk period (1979-1982), which saw a convergence between various urban tribes, notably the Mods, Rockers, Punks and Skinheads. The editing is markedly punk, while it’s interesting to see the prevailing looks and the way the folks moved in their milieu. The main characters are scene celebrities (press, musicians, DJs, etc.) and the movie is recorded in Super 8. Stills in motion from a fleeting period marked by upheaval.

Rude Boy (Jack Hazan & David Mingay, 1980)

Set in London in 1978 and early 1979, with The Clash as co-protagonists. The movie opens by setting the scene in the electoral context that London was steeped in at the time, with nationalist, anti-communist and even xenophobes on one side, and anti-racist and anti-Nazi protests on the other. The film blends fiction with documentary and also chronicles tours by The Clash.

Punk: Attitude (Don Letts, 2005)

This documentary makes the perfect introduction to the genre for the uninitiated. It features a huge gamut of celebrities who were involved in some capacity, notably Captain Sensible (The Damned), Mick Jones (The Clash) and Siouxsie Sioux (…and the Banshees), brought together by the hardened documentalist and DJ who mediated between punks and Rastafarians in the first year of London punk.

Four Accessories For the Punk Experience in London

1. Dr. Martens Boots

Worn by many of the lads that feature in the In-Edit documentaries. Nowadays you can buy them at the official Dr. Martens Store, and also at the Camden and Portobello street markets, sold by the odd specialty stall.

2. Second-hand Punk Records

If your thing is vinyl, with mangy, well-bent edges, the best deals can be found at All Ages Records in Camden.

3. Pubs

A number of pubs became part of the haunts of the punk movement in the 70s and early 80s, particularly those in the vicinity of the 100 club on Oxford Street, or The Roxy, in Covent Garden. If you still feel the urge to down a few pints among leather jackets with studs and crests, we recommend you head for The Elephant’s Head in Camden.

4. Garments

As much as some voice the opinion that punks were anti-everything – and even anti-fashion – we all know that was not true. The Sex Pistols were the first to be put through the fashion wringer. They were the living mannequins of Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood, who owned the Sex punk boutique at 430 King’s Road. Today, such designers as Westwood herself or Jean Paul Gaultier still display punk influences. There are currently a number of stores that carry iconic garments, but we recommend a futuristic update of this trend at Cyberdog.

Be sure to put on tight leather pants and spike your hair.  Discover the wild side of London – check out our flights here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

With a millennial tradition, Bergamo rises majestically atop a hill in Lombardy. Its medieval old town is one of the best preserved in the region, with vestiges of the passage of Venetians, Austrians, Napoleon and, lastly, the unifiers under Garibaldi. But, apart from its monumental heritage, Bergamo is also famous for its cuisine and for being the birthplace of one of the leading opera composers of all time – Gaetano Donizetti.

Between the Città Alta and the Città Bassa

The Bergamasque universe is split in two. The historic centre is surrounded by an old wall at the top of a steep hill in what is known as the Città Alta or Upper City. At the foot of these hills lies the Città Bassa or Lower City which spreads across the plains and is now the hub of the city’s development.

Until the 19th century, the only connection between the two parts of Bergamo was via the sloping fortified wall gates. Over a hundred years ago, however, they were joined by a funicular railway which now links the Upper and Lower City in less than five minutes. The ride affords some stunning views.

The Essential Bergamo

The two main thoroughfares in old Bergamo are Via Gombito and Via Bartolomeo Colleoni. The network of streets that fan out from there is well worth strolling through as they are structured around the Piazza Vecchia, of which the architect Le Corbusier said it was the most beautiful square in Italy. It is also the site of some of the city’s most significant buildings. Presiding over the area is the formidable Torre Civica, also known as the Campanone, a stunning campanile from where the bells once pealed out to mark curfews and which connects the Palazzo della Ragione to the Palazzo del Podestà.

At the other end of the square stands the white Palazzo Nuovo, designed by the architect Vincenzo Scamozzi. It now houses a library, while a second-hand book and antique market sets up shop under its arcade on Sunday mornings.

The arches attached to the municipal building on the far side of the square lead to the Piazza Duomo. Sited here and well worth visiting is the Cathedral, although absolute pride of place goes to the adjoining Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, one of the most beautiful churches in the north of Italy. Begun in the 12th century, its Romanesque exterior belies its opulent interior, studded with frescoes, coloured stucco and marquetry work of the finest quality. A prominent highlight is the Colleoni Chapel. Here, too, lie the mortal remains of the most illustrious Bergamasque, Gaetano Donizetti, as well as those of his master, the no less distinguished Simon Mayr.

A Universal Bergamasque

No account of Bergamo would be complete without mention of the composer, Gaetano Donizetti, who was born and died here. Indeed, every step one takes through the city is a constant reminder of the romantic musician. Whether you are a music lover or not, we wholeheartedly recommend visiting the Museo Donizettiano, located near the Basilica de Santa Maria, with its collection of the composer’s personal belongings and several of his handwritten musical scores. The city’s leading theatre, the Donizetti Theatre, is yet another reminder of Bergamo’s favourite son. Adjacent to the theatre, a large monument pays tribute to his figure, while in autumn the city hosts the Festival Donizetti, which includes performances of his operas and includes guest opera stars from abroad. The festival is also a good time to discover the Teatro Sociale which, after its latest refurbishment in 2009, is unlikely to leave you indifferent.

Essential Cuisine

By now nobody would be surprised to hear about the excellence of Italian cuisine, and Bergamasque cooking is no exception. The star dish in the city is their casonsei or casoncelli alla bergamasca, a meat-filled pasta with a superb sage butter sauce. Their cured meat is another forte of the region, as are the wines. There are two venues you should make a point of visiting if you want to taste their finest cuisine. First, Da Mimmo, on the Via Colleoni in the Città Alta. Here you can taste some of the local specialities and one of the city’s most famous pizzas. The other essential eatery is the Baretto de San Vigilio. You can only get there by taking a second funicular from the Città Alta. The restaurant serves delicious traditional cuisine with signature flourishes and affords what are some of the best views of Bergamo. You simply must try their homemade tiramisu, one of the tastiest in the north of Italy.

Fire up and visit this fantastic Lombard city – book your Vueling to Milan here.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Aleix Palau, Rick Ligthelm, David Spender