Christiania A Hymn to Freedom in Copenhagen
One of the unusual features of Copenhagen, which also happens to attract flocks of inquisitive tourists from all over the world, is Freetown Christiania (Fristaden Christiania). Located in the central borough of Christianshavn, it has the odd privilege of being autonomously ruled by a neighbourhood community which declared its independence from the Danish State and the European Union, as clearly marked on a sign at the exit from Christiania which reads: “You’re now entering the EU”.
The origins of Christiania go back to 1971, when a group of Danes occupied what was a derelict military precinct with abundant green areas which they decided to turn into a playground for their children. Guided by the spirit of the times, their move sparked a debate about what to do with that abandoned area. Members of the counter-culture movement known as Provo ended up occupying the area and founding a community where they set about putting into practice their anti-system ideas. After the occasional attempt at evicting them by the government, the latter gave in and allowed the neighbourhood community to flourish under self-management as a social experiment.
Amazing as it may seem, that hippy community, which now numbers some one thousand members, is still operating 45 years on. Be it the free atmosphere, the overridingly friendly vibes, or interest in seeing a small sample of Utopia in operation, the fact is that Christiania is the second most widely visited spot in Denmark after Copenhagen’s paradigmatic icon – The Little Mermaid. The community can be visited by guided tour or just wandering about freely, although visitors have to observe a set of rules voted by the community. Among these is a ban on private property, talking on mobile phones and taking photographs. Outsiders should particularly heed the latter, the most controversial prohibition and one that has at times threatened the survival of the community, where the smoking of cannabis is allowed.
The main drag in Christiania is Pusher Street, where you will find bars and vegetarian restaurants for engaging in “slow food”, as well as shops where you can buy craftwork and souvenirs of the city. One of the advantages of this area is that items are cheaper and no taxes are paid. Among the major charms of visiting this “freetown” is the contrast it strikes with the rest of Copenhagen. Untarred streets with no cars – and therefore no noise – military constructions converted into homes or common areas and a huge amount of colour and vegetation everywhere. A wholly anarchical picture in an atmosphere of total calm in which time seems to stand still.
Be sure to make a foray into this unusual enclave of freedom in the Danish capital – book your Vueling here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by News Oresund
more infoCoruña Submits to St John
Greeting the arrival of summer is taken very seriously by the people of A Coruña. Indeed, the festivity of the Night of St John (San Xoán, in Galician) is celebrated extravagantly, with fire playing a major role in the form of myriad bonfires taking over the beaches, and magic rituals unfolding all over the city. The fiesta has grown ever more popular in recent years and in 2015 was designated an international Tourist Interest event. It is the perfect excuse for a getaway to A Coruña to spend a very special feast of St John.
While the big night is that of 23 June, the preceding week sees the city splashing out on a plethora of concerts, gastro events and children’s activities, although at the back of people’s minds is the Eve of St John on the 23rd, when the ancestral sun worship rituals take place.
“Sardiñadas”
The “sardiñadas” or sardine festival provides the centrepiece of the Festa de San Xoán. The city is impregnated with the characteristic smell at dinner time, what with sardine cook-offs organised by grass-root associations studding the streets and spilling over into the bars. The grilled sardines are usually eaten with broa (corn bread), which you should make a point of tasting. To round off the experience, be sure to have the local punch known as queimada to set you well on your way in this long, grand festival night.
Beach Bonfires
Fire is unquestionably the highlight of the Night of St John, and the beaches, where most of the celebrations are concentrated, become filled with light and charm. So, be sure to head for any of the beaches as night falls and set up your own bonfire, or else tag along with any of the numerous groups you will encounter on your way – they are certain to welcome you into the fold. You could always head for either Orzán or Riazor, where most people congregate or, if you are the sort that tends to avoid large crowds, we suggest you choose a smaller beach, like San Amaro or Las Lapas, or the tiny coves of Adormideras. The idea is to pick your perfect spot for spending the shortest night in the year.
The moment of maximum splendour is midnight, when the main effigy or Falla is lit on the beach of Riazor. This is preceded by fireworks which, together with the bonfires, fill the calm waters fringing the seaside promenade with light. Then starts a fiesta which is sure to see you through to daybreak, and the nocturnal events will be redolent with a host of purification rituals. The idea is to put all the bad things from the previous year behind you, in order to start afresh, or to simply have a great time on such a special night.
TExt by Turismo A Coruña
more infoThe Best Monas de Pascua in Alicante
Traditional festivities often go hand-in-hand with culinary delights, as is the case with the mona de Pascua, associated with Easter Monday, when the custom is for men to gift one of these cakes to their godchildren. Eating the mona de Pascua ushers in the end of Lent and fasting.
Themonais eaten in various regions of Spain, including Catalonia, the Balearic Islands, Aragon, Murcia and Valencia, each with their own recipe and peculiarity. In Catalonia, the chocolate mona prevails, while in Valencia they resemble a sweet bun, most of them made of flour, sugar, eggs and salt.
The Tradition in Alicante
Several types ofmonaare made in the Community of Valencia, although the panquemado or toña are available all year around in bakeries and pastry shops. But the variety that appear at Easter are more elaborate and decorative. They are usually either elongated or round and dusted withanisetes(aniseed candies). Those made for children come in amusing, attractive shapes, such as monkeys, snakes or lizards, with a hard-boiled egg embedded in their mouths.
In Alicante and, in general, throughout the Levante (south-eastern seaboard), the custom is to go on an outing in the countryside or hills on the Day of the Mona. Families and friends meet to eat the traditional confectionery in nearby nature areas, including the Sierra de Callosa, the Pinada de Guardamar and the Sierra del Maigmó.
One amusing custom is to break the hard-boiled egg that comes with the mona on a friend’s or family member’s head. They say that some bakers garnish their monas with raw eggs to make the situation even more entertaining. The ritual dictates that the aggressor recite the verse: “Ací em pica, ací em cou i ací t’esclafe l’ou” (Here I’m itching, here I’m smarting and here I break the egg over you).
The Best Pastry Shops in Alicante to Buy Monas and other Confectionery
In Alicante, the pastry shops vie with one another to produce the best monas and display them in their shop windows. One of the most acclaimed ones in the city is Prefiero Sussu, owned by José Manuel Samper, at number 3, calle Pintor Baez. It is a landmark of the best pastries and has won several awards for its delicious toñas. At Sussu they also make one of the finest croissants in Spain. Fresh out of the oven, the taste of butter is unmistakeable, as margarine is not allowed into the Prefiero Sussu bakery under any circumstance.
Horno Rafelet, at 57 calle Maestro Alonso, is a family concern in operation since 1932 where some exquisite homemade products are made. It stands out from the rest because of the traditional recipes they follow and their fine baking.
In the town of Orihuela, in Alicante province, we find what are reputed to be the best toñas in the province. They come from the bakery of El Horno del Obispo, which has been operating since 1850, located in the historic centre of Orihuela. It shares the accolade for the best toñas in Alicante with El Angel, also located in that town. If you visit Orihuela, you should also taste their typical confectionery, known as chato de Orihuela.
How about the Gluten-free Variety?
If you’re looking for gluten- and lactose-free monas de Pascua, there are some delicious ones in the Pastelería José María García, at 46 avenida de Novelda. Their bakery follows homemade recipes based on natural products.
What are you waiting for? Check out our prices here!
Text by Scanner FM
Images by Horno Rafelet, La Murciana and Pastelería Torreblanca
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Going for tapas in la Barceloneta
Enjoy a tasty tapa of fried anchovies, calamari or brava potatoes in the bars of one of the best-known districts of Barcelona: la Barceloneta.
Can Maño
One of those bars that has been passed down the family. Its lack of signs means the entrance can easily go unnoticed. The tapas are eaten on a melamine table, the plates and glasses are straight out of the school canteen, the toilet is poky, they take no reservations and do not accept plastic. They don’t need to offer any better service to always have a queue at the door, because the real reason for going to Can Maño is to eat fish. In this, they are unbeatable because it is always wonderfully fresh. Fried anchovies, hake, sardines… all of it straight from the market.
Can Maño
Carrer del Baluart 12
Can Paixano
A bar flanked by two enormous wooden gates in the narrow streets of the Barcelona Bazaars. It is also known as La Xampaneria because it traditionally sells baguettes accompanied by a glass of rosé cava. You can buy the whole bottle for prices ranging between 4 and 6 euros depending on the quality, but they will not sell it to you unless it is purchased with food.
Cured meat from Leon, Catalan sausage and hams hang from the ceiling, constituting the ingredients of their delicious baguettes. The service is fast, you eat quickly and then you make space for the next diner.
Can Paixano
Carrer de la Reina Cristina 7
La Cova Fumada
Especially known for its famous potato “bombas”. The cod, beans and chick peas with black pudding are also delicious. Magí, one of the owners, is our waitress today, but the whole family works in this bar: the grandmother, brothers and sisters and children. Like many of these local bars, it is closed on Sundays.
Bar Electricitat
One of those bodegas that has always been there, located in the plaza del mercat, opposite the Cova Fumada. Home-made vermouth, anchovies, crab salad, stuffed eggs… A place that does vermouth the old-fashioned way.
Bar Electricitat
Carrer de Sant Carles, 15
Bar Jai-ca
Another tapas classic in la Barceloneta is bar Jai-ca, where it is always difficult to find a free corner. The variety and quality of its tapas will make your mouth water as you gaze at the trays of fried fish, prawns, baby squid and bravas potatoes crammed onto the bar, and the taste is even better.
Ba Jai-ca
Carrer Ginebra, 13
Ca’l Chusco
A family bar serving good tapas, but if you are looking for a quick beer at the bar, the tapa is free. We were given deep-fried hot green peppers stuffed with fresh cheese and potato “bombas”. They will often serve you fried fish.
Ca’l Chusco
Calle Almirall Aixada, 5
Cal Papi
With the ambience of an old fishermen’s bar, at Cal Papi the specialities are anchovies, home-made cod fritters, prawns, oxtail and deep fried anchovies, but we were also surprised to see frogs’ legs on the menu! Another of the more unusual tapas was cod skins, which are displayed on the bar and which they let us try on seeing our surprised faces. They are crunchy and taste a bit like pork scratchings.
Cal Papi
Calle Atlántida, 65
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