Vintage Trip To Aranjuez
Among the host of outings to go on in Madrid’s outlying area is one to Aranjuez, with its panoply of artistic, cultural and ecological heritage sites. Not for nothing was it listed by UNESCO as a World Cultural Landscape in 2001.
The Strawberry Train – Experiencing a Bygone Age
For enthusiasts of both old times and new experiences, there is an alternative and highly original way of travelling from Madrid to Aranjuez, which is by taking the Strawberry Train. But, what makes this means of transport so different from the others? First, it runs on the second railway line to be built in Spain, inaugurated on 9 February 1851. The first line to come into operation was the Barcelona–Mataró line, opened in 1948. The aim of the second route was to connect Madrid to the coast, with Alicante as the final destination. In its early days, its importance lay in the produce it transported to Madrid from the market gardens in Aranjuez, prompting it to be known as the Strawberry Train.
Its other big draw is that the train operating this line was built in the early 20th century. Having been restored, it gives you the feel of what train travel was like in bygone days. It has a rakish engine with wooden carriages. And, during the journey, passengers are offered strawberries from Aranjuez by hostesses dressed in period costume. The Strawberry Train runs at weekends in May, June, September and October and leaves from the Railway Museum or Museo del Ferrocarril. The timetable is posted here.
Aranjuez, An Area of Courtly Recreation
Aranjuez’s fortunes changed when Philip II awarded it the title of Royal Site. It was turned into the Spanish monarch’s country residence, thus becoming a royal precinct, particularly during the reigns of Philip V (17th-18th century) and Charles III (18th century). It was precisely these kings who commissioned the creation of the areas which are now the city’s must-see sights. In line with prevailing tastes during the Enlightenment, the inner city was designed in a reticular layout which has survived to the present and never fails to surprise visitors.
Among the standout monuments is the Royal Palace, designed by the architects, Juan Bautista de Toledo and Juan de Herrera. It also features a later extension, including the wings added in 1775. The interior houses such curiosities as the Porcelain Study – the capital work of the Royal Porcelain Factory in Madrid’s Buen Retiro – and the Arab Study, inspired by the Hall of the Two Sisters in the Alhambra of Granada.
Also worth visiting is the Real Casa del Labrador (Farmer’s Lodge), set in the so-called Prince’s Garden, the work of Juan Villanueva and Isidro González Velázquez. Lastly, another notable landmark is the Church of San Antonio, commissioned by Ferdinand VI in honour of St Anthony of Padua.
Another standout feature of Aranjuez is its Royal Gardens. There are four in all, namely the Parterre, the King’s Garden,the Island Garden and the Prince’s Garden, situated on the Tagus riverbank and within the Royal Palace precinct. They were all designed as recreational areas for the Court and attest to a blend of French taste acquired from the Bourbons and Italian influences, yielding a stunning result which is worth strolling around and enjoying.
Wait – There’s More!
For those who aren’t satiated by monuments and gardens, another feature of Aranjuez is its huerta or market gardens, among the most important in Spain. Situated between the Tagus and Jarama rivers, the fertile soil produces such crops as asparagus – here known as pericos– and strawberries, introduced by the French Bourbons. The latter also patronised farming research and experimentation on this land, as evinced in the surviving Renaissance layout of the allotments.
Don’t fail to make a gastronomic stopover to savour the fruit of this land. A classical option is Casa José, one of the most celebrated restaurants in the Madrid Community.
Ready for a getaway with a period twist? Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Eric Titcombe, M a n u e l, Andrés Gómez - Club Ferroviario 241
more infoDiscover Tarragona and Its Hinterland
Situated just under an hour and a half from Barcelona lies the city of Tarragona, its Roman and medieval past providing visitors with an amazing wealth of history and art. However, this cultural journey goes beyond the city limits – inland we find the three gems of the Cistercian route, as well as the landscapes that inspired such artists as Antoni Gaudí and Joan Miró. What more could you ask for?
Itinerary 1: the Roman Legacy
Tarraco – Roman Tarragona
What was once the capital of the province of Hispania Tarraconensis still preserves numerous vestiges of that splendid past. Designated a World Heritage Site in 2000, travellers to the city will be dazzled by the Roman wall, the provincial forum, the circus, amphitheatre and a host of remains awaiting them on their walks through ancient Tarraco. You can join a guided tour at Auriga Serveis Culturals so as not to miss any details of that legacy.
Roman Villa of Centcelles
Just six kilometres from Tarragona, in Constantí, lies the Roman villa of Centcelles, a landmark monument of palaeo-Christian art. One of the highlights of that site is the dome ornamented with a Christian-themed mosaic, one of the oldest surviving examples from the Roman world.
Roman Villa of Els Munts
Located in Altafulla, 12 kilometres from Tarragona, is the villa of Els Munts. It was apparently used for agricultural purposes and still displays constructions featuring richly decorated elements.
Itinerary 2: a Splendid Medieval Past
Jewels of the Cistercian Route
The three jewels that make up this magnificent route through Cistercian monasteries are the Monastery of Santes Creus, with its stunning chapterhouse and Gothic cloister, the Monastery of Vallbona, a 12th-century nunnery boasting a monumental church and cloister and – the most popular of all – the Monastery of Poblet, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its magnificent cloister and royal pantheon where King James I the Conqueror is buried, among others.
Montblanc – Medieval Spirit
Montblanc is one of the paramount medieval complexes in Catalonia, thanks to its excellent state of preservation. Make a point of exploring it and wandering through its streets, where you are sure to be transported to medieval times. Or, if you prefer, you can sign up for one of the routes organised by the Town Council, featuring options to suit all tastes.
Siurana – the Stuff of Legend
This village in the Priorat, which seems to have leaped out of some novel, was one of the last Moorish enclaves in Catalonia which managed to hold out and check the Christian advance. Turismo de Siurana offers dramatised guided tours highlighting stories, tales and legends about the area.
Discover the First Charterhouse on the Iberian Peninsula
Built in the 12th century in the Priorat county, the Carthusian Monastery of Escaladei is regarded as the earliest Carthusian monastery to emerge on the Iberian Peninsula. Those parts of the charterhouse currently open to the public include the three cloisters, church, refectory and a monk’s cell which has been reconstructed down to the last detail.
Itinerary 3: In the Footsteps of Miró and Gaudí
Mont-roig – Source of Inspiration for Joan Miró
Joan Miró first visited Mont-roig del Camp in 1911, when he was 18 years old. The landscape made such an impact on him that it became his habitual place of pilgrimage, a town he would return to time and again in search of peace and inspiration. Well worth visiting is the Centre Miró where you can acquire greater insight into the relationship between the artistic genius and the town and its surroundings.
Searching For the Origins of Gaudí
Just 18 kilometres from Tarragona lies the small town of Riudoms, site of the house where Antoni Gaudí was born. Open to the public, it reveals the origins of this unique artist and the environment which was to influence his work. Interesting, isn’t it?
Text by Agencia Catalana de Turismo
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Carcassonne Medieval Inspiration
Set in the middle of a triangle comprising the cities of Toulouse, Montpellier and Barcelona is this spectacular walled city, a captivating sight for all who visit it. Fittingly, it was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1997. It is one of the leading tourist magnets in the Languedoc region and the whole of France, attracting around 4 million visitors each year. Here are the reasons why Carcassonne has become a must-visit destination.
Important Strategic Enclave
The city’s strategic location, set as it is on a hillside overlooking the Aude river valley, made it the perfect vantage point for surveilling such important routes as the one linking the Iberian Peninsula to the rest of Europe, and the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. Thus, Carcassonne became a key city for centuries. In Roman times it was already an important trading post and was coveted by Gauls, Romans – who built the first walled fortifications – Visigoths and Moors, until it ended up becoming a French royal army garrison.
A Walk Through the Cité
Vestiges of that illustrious past as a strategic bulwark can be seen in the upper city of Carcassonne, now known as the Cité, site of the old walled fortifications. Sightseers touring the interior of this huge walled precinct are immediately transported to a bygone era. The Cité is fortified by two concentric walls – the innermost ring was erected in the times of the Gauls, Romans and Visigoths, while the outer, far sturdier ring with four towers was added from the 13th century onwards. Once inside, visitors are encouraged to stroll through the city streets and soak up the medieval atmosphere that pervades the complex. The major landmarks here are the Château Comtal (Castle of the Counts), in the west of the fortified city and attached to the wall, and the Romanesque Basilica of Saint-Nazaire. Be sure to also visit the Pont Vieux (Old Bridge) which crosses the Canal du Midi and links the Cité to the lower part of Carcassonne.
Some Extras On the Way
The counterpoint to this journey into the past, which takes you through the streets of medieval Carcassonne, finds its ideal complement in a culinary break in one of the restaurants you will come across on your tour. Treat yourself to a good glass of wine, preferably Corbieres, the local Designation of Origin, accompanied by duck confit or cassoulet (a local bean stew). The best way to round off your visit to this city.
Viollet-le-Duc – The Other Great Protagonist of Carcassonne
Much of Carcassonne’s appeal revolves around the figure of French architect, archaeologist and writer, Viollet-le-Duc and the “restoration”, as unique as it was controversial, which he carried out on the Cité in the mid-19th century. The fact is that, following the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659, the fortified precinct of Carcassonne was abandoned altogether and gradually deteriorated with the implacable passage of time. Indeed, it was so derelict that some voices called for its wholesale destruction. However, by popular request, it was earmarked for refurbishment, a task which was commissioned to one of the leading figures of the moment, Viollet-le-Duc.
Rather than what would now be considered a refurbishment, visitors currently find themselves before a full-blown reconstruction of the old city, including the odd flourish of a Romantic bent added by Viollet-le-Duc himself. He actually applied what was very much in vogue in restoration work at the time, although his endeavours have subsequently drawn considerable criticism from the experts. However, the result admittedly hangs together rather well and achieves the effect of immersing the visitor in a medieval past which the architect purposely set out to reinterpret.
Book your Vueling to Toulouse, which lies less than 100 kilometres from Carcassonne, and travel back in time behind the walls of that wonderful fortified precinct in Languedoc.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Tournasol7
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5 best restaurants to rediscover A Coruña
A Coruña is a showcase for the new Galician cuisine. These 5 best restaurants prove it. Atlantic products on the table and young talent in the kitchen. In these establishments you're going to find shellfish, the meat of Galician blonde cows and tetilla cheese, but with a whole new taste.
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