Fine Wine in Beer Land
At some spot between Ingolstadt and Nuremberg, the Bavarian accent becomes gentler, the wind blows a little further down and wine competes with beer as the local beverage. This is Franconia (Franken) and, as locals never fail to point out, the Franconians – who live in the wooded hills and on the banks of the river Main – are very different from their outgoing southern cousins.
The wine producers in the north-east of the region make sublime white wine, sold in a characteristic tear-shaped bottle known as the bocksbeutel. For open-air enthusiasts, the Altmühltal Nature Reserve is an ideal area for hiking, cycling and canoeing. However, it is Franconia’s incredible towns – Nuremberg, Bamberg and Coburg – that attract most visitors. But, let’s concentrate on that marvellous elixir that has captivated human beings since the dawn of time.
Wine – the Soul of the Region
The wine of Franconia is not merely a beverage, but a celebration of the senses. It is welded into the DNA of the whole region. Its presence is felt everywhere. To see how influential it is in the landscape, suffice to go walking or cycling on the banks of the river Main, or to visit Würzburg Residenz Palace. Its presence is also tasted in the culinary creations of local chefs and in the taverns. Moreover, in Franconia, wine is extolled at festivals and trade fairs –Heckenwirtschaften– dedicated solely to wine.
The region’s mild climate is propitious for the production of this delicious beverage. It is continental, with very cold winters and mild summers, meaning the grapes mature very slowly. The soils are highly varied, being formed of coloured sandstone, granite, limestone and some slate, so that each soil type yields a different kind of wine. The coloured sandstone yields red wine, while the granite and limestone are ideal for white wines. Grape-growing has been an important and constant activity here for over 1,200 years. It is a joy to explore the wines of Franconia and all their nuances.
This wine-producing region lies east of Frankfurt and some 65 kilometres from the Rhine. The vineyards are planted on the south-facing slopes along the river Main and encircle the city of Würzburg, so this is the only vinicultural region in the state of Bavaria. Franconia is divided into three districts – Mainviereck, Maindreieck and Steigerwald – formed by the shapes adopted by the Main’s meanders. It is worth a trip along the river to get an idea of how varied the area’s vineyards really are. The main types of grape are the Müller-Thurgau, Sylvaner and Bacchus.
Wine Cellars and Taverns
Wine cellars have proliferated lately. True, the consumption of white wine has increased markedly in recent years. They put it down to the economic crisis – white wines are usually cheaper than red – and to global warming – wine served cold is more appetising. The great advantage held by Franconia’s wines is undoubtedly the exceptional grape varieties grown there. And, the exuberant architecture of the wine cellars provides added value for the senses. Here is a list of the wine cellars and taverns specialising in the area’s leading wines.
DIVINO Nordheim
Langgasse 33 · 97334 Nordheim a. Main. Website
Fränkische Flaschenpost
Kirchplatz 2 · 97236 Randersacker
Tel. +49(0)931/30489627
Vinothek im Kuk
Rathausplatz 6 · 97337 Dettelbach. Website
Vinothek Iphofen
Kirchplatz 7 · 97346 Iphofen. Website
Vinothek Sommerach
Kirchplatz 3 · 97332 Sommerach a. Main. Website
Weinforum Franken
Hauptstraße 37 · 97246 Eibelstadt. Website
Winzer Sommerach- Der Winzerkeller
Zum Katzenkopf 1 · 97334 Sommerach a. Main. Website
Have you got that? Then come and discover the wines of Franconia. Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Alexander Von Halem, Goegeo, VisualBeo, FrankenTourismus/Fraenkisches Weinland Tourismus/Hub
more info5 Tips for Enjoying Las Fallas to the Full
From the last Sunday in February to 19 March – the feast of St Joseph – Valencia is gripped by its most acclaimed and unique fiesta, Las Fallas (Falles,in Valencian). This year’s edition is one of the first festivities to be celebrated in the city after Las Fallas was designated a World Heritage event by UNESCO on 30 November last year. Here, then, are some pointers to getting the most out of the fiesta.
1. The Origins
Las Fallas pay tribute to St Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters. Popular belief has it that the Fallas originated in the carpenters’ guild where, each year on the eve of St Joseph, they would clean out their workshops and burn the leftover junk in bonfires in an act of purification to mark the arrival of spring. Over the years, those scraps of furniture were remodelled into the now famous dummies known as ninots.
2. It’s Really About “Ninots”
These human effigies echo current affairs by parodying the most controversial public figures of the moment, mostly lampooning them in a spirit of pungent irony. They are the true protagonists of Las Fallas. All the ninots compete to be saved from the flames. The weeks in the run-up to the fiesta, they are collectively put on public display, before being devoured by the flames. Well, all of them except one which, for its originality or painstaking manufacture, will be spared from the fire. Which one will be spared the ordeal this time around?
3. The Crowning Events
The falleras (festival queens) and the firework displays are further ingredients in this celebration, endowing it with a character of its own. The crida or “call” marks the start of the festivity which, as mentioned earlier, takes place on the last Sunday in February. The thunderous mascletàs, the despertà, a firecracker “awakening” marking the start of the day, and the ongoing pyrotechnic displays provide the sound, light and colour which become a constant feature throughout the celebrations, culminating in the cremà, the mass bonfire where theninotsare burned.
4. Culinary Traditions
A must-taste culinary speciality of this fiesta are the buñuelos or fritters – packed with energy, they will help you withstand the riotous goings-on. Whether plain or puff fritters, chocolate ones or those with pumpkin or sweet potato, you should make a point of savouring this delicacy. You can plan your bites at the numerous street stalls around the city, or opt to head for the classical venues where this speciality is served, like the Horchatería Santa Catalina, located in the heart of the old town, the Horchatería El Collado or L’Orxateria del Mercat Central.
Seeing you’re in Valencia, the land of master paella makers, you won’t be surprised to learn that this culinary marvel abounds among the fiesta dishes. Don’t hesitate to join the crowds around the various open-air, mass paellas simmering away.
5. Beyond the Fiesta
Take advantage of your stay in Valencia to tour its historic centre and soak up such gems as Valencia Cathedral, La Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange), in elegant, civil-Gothic style, the Central Market, a fine example of pre-Modernist architecture, the city’s magnificent palaces and its medieval gates.
You should also make a point of visiting the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (City of Art and Science), where you are bound to be amazed by the futuristic buildings, designed by architect Santiago Calatrava.
Be sure to book your Vueling to Valencia to experience first-hand one of the city’s most important and exciting celebrations.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by keith ellwood
more infoLondon Attired in Balenciaga
London is in a class of its own when it comes to cultural offerings. This list of exhibition spaces to visit may seem overwhelming, but it is well worth seeing some of these museums or exhibition halls whenever you happen to be in London. One such privileged spot is the Victoria & Albert Museum, dedicated to art and design, which has been hosting an endless stream of exhibitions lately. This alone warrants at least a brief visit to London.
This is true of Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion, the latest jewel put out by the V&A to steal our hearts, cajoling us into making room on our agenda to delight in the work of this brilliant couturier. The exhibition, inaugurated on 27 May and running until 18 February 2018, pays tribute to Cristóbal Balenciaga, one of the great visionaries of haute couture. A contemporary of Coco Chanel and Christian Dior, he managed to seduce everyone with his technically perfect minimalist designs based on polished lines and new materials. His craftsmanship once prompted Coco Chanel to remark, “He alone was a couturier in the truest sense of the word… the others are simply fashion designers”.
On display at this exhibition, curated by the fashion specialist Cassie Davies-Strodder, are a hundred garments and twenty hats, most of which come from the V&A collection. Among the curiosities at this show is the chance to discover some of Balenciaga’s dresses and hats in detail, thanks to the collaboration of artist Nick Veasey who uses X-ray imaging techniques to reveal the complexity hidden in the designs.
This is the first exhibition in the United Kingdom dedicated to Balenciaga, who opened his first boutique in San Sebastián a hundred years ago, while eighty years have gone by since he arrived in Paris, fleeing from the Spanish Civil War. It was there that he eventually set up his own workshop and earned international fame. However, recognition was late in coming to this outstanding couturier. Acclaimed for his meticulous craftsmanship, he always shunned the limelight, despite boasting such customers as Marlene Dietrich, Ava Gardner and the millionaire, Mona von Bismarck.
New Design Museum in London
Still within the confines of design, to make the most of your London getaway we recommend you take the opportunity to visit the new premises of The Design Museum, which opened its doors on 24 November. Housed in the former Commonwealth Institute, the building has 10,000m2 of floor space and a parabolic ceiling. Renovation work on the premises was assigned to British architect John Pawson. The goal of this reconversion was to turn the museum, previously housed in more modest premises in the city, into a veritable beacon of design, by way of a Tate Modern of design and architecture. Apart from revelling in the new design space, you can also visit the newly unveiled exhibition, Designed in California. It explores how the ideals of the 1960s counterculture morphed into the tech culture of Silicon Valley, and how the “Designed in California” concept became the global phenomenon we know today.
Fire up and make your getaway to fine design – book your Vueling to London here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Photo: Dovima with Sacha, cloche and suit by Balenciaga, Café des Deux Magots, Paris, 1955. Photograph by Richard Avedon © The Richard Avedon Foundation
more infoTracking Down Banksy in Calais
A few days ago, after Banksy had updated his website, we noticed that his work is now displayed at various points in “The Jungle” refugee camp in Calais, one of the largest camps in western Europe. Despite his identity still being cloaked in anonymity, Banksy is currently one of the most highly valued artists around. His sharp, critical wit is undoubtedly the hallmark of his work.
Noteworthy among the four new artworks he posted is the one showing Steve Jobs carrying an early-eighties Macintosh, with a sack slung over his shoulder, reminiscent of the bags the forced migrants often take with them on their harsh journey. This is clearly a reference to the whole migratory movement being enacted from Syria to Europe. Jobs was, of course, the son of a Muslim Syrian immigrant and was adopted by a middle-class family of Armenian origin. That is the conceptual link Banksy draws between Steve Jobs and the Syrian diaspora.
Another Banksy offering in the same area makes reference to a famous work by Théodore Géricault, The Raft of the Medusa, painted between 1818 and 1819, depicting a group of castaways in danger, packed onto a drifting raft. This alludes to the dangerous voyage embarked on by many of these refugees who risk their lives crossing the Mediterranean on flimsy rafts. In this version, the castaways are crying out for help to a modern cruise ship speeding past near the horizon. The artist had previously drawn attention to the issues surrounding the refugee crisis in a work entitled, Dismaland.
In addition to these artworks, members of Banksy’s team set up 12 permanent installations in Calais, and a makeshift children’s playground in the camp precinct. The materials used were either sourced locally or were remnants of the Dismaland project brought here for the purpose. This new project is known as Dismal Aid.
A Much Frequented But Little Visited City
Calais is primarily a city of passage. Some 15 million people are estimated to pass through it each year as it is a compulsory way station for access between France and England. In contrast, comparatively few people actually spend some time visiting the city. However, we can wholeheartedly recommend this city in the north of France, with little over 75,000 inhabitants and just 34 km from Dover, as a tourist destination. Its charm lies not in its architecture or monuments but in its privileged siting on the seaboard and the majestic Côte d’Opale.
The city is not celebrated for its grand monuments or buildings, but it does have such landmarks as the Musée Mémoire 1939-1945, dedicated to the Second World War and housed in a bunker, a sculptural group by Rodin known as The Burghers of Calais, located opposite the City Hall, and the Cité Internationale de la Dentelle et de la Mode, the city’s Lace Museum. On display is a century-old mechanical loom with 3,500 vertical threads and 11,000 horizontal ones. Calais’ genuine heritage lies in its natural surroundings and local scenery is stunning. Come armed with your camera as the views are breathtaking. The attractive seafront is dotted with striped changing booths which take you back to the early 20th century. The sands stretch westwards for 8 km along the dune-filled Blériot beach, so named as it was here that the pioneer aviatorLouis Blériottook off on the first ever solo flight over the English Channel in 1909.
By the way, when you feel like having lunch or dinner, be sure to head for the Histoire Ancienne, a bistro specialising in regional and French dishes, some cooked on an open wood fire. This very pleasant, Parisian-style restaurant was opened in the 1930s. Prices are affordable, with dinner ranging from 19 to 28 euros.
Don’t miss your getaway to Calais – check out our flights to Lille here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Rob Sinclair, Carawah, Olivier Duquesne
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