Turin for Film Lovers
It was a film that led me to Turin. I was stunned by a giant edifice topped by a spire which towered over the city. It was the Mole Antonelliana, a vivid name alluding to both its blunt presence and its designer, Alessandro Antonelli, who had initially conceived of it as a synagogue. I discovered it in a humble but significant independent film entitled Dopo Mezzanotte (After Midnight), by Davide Ferrario, who lives in the city and has shot many of his films there. It is a hymn to cinema, a passion triangle with the action set in the Museo Nazionale del Cinema, which has been housed in the Mole since 2000. With an area of 3,200 square metres, it is the largest in Europe dedicated to “the Seventh Art”. It is a highly original, spectacular exhibition, both for its location and the layout of its collections, including pre-cinematographic devices, magic lanterns, and both old and modern stage items – notably masks from Star Wars and Bergman’s The Seventh Seal, Superman’s cloak and Marilyn Monroe’s bodice. It is actually one of the most frequented museums in Italy, quite a feat in a country with such a rich history and art heritage. It is also the site of the Turin Film Festival, next slated for 20 to 28 November, which has featured such filmmakers as Nanni Moretti, Gianni Amelio and Paolo Virzi.
The City that Bewitched Risi, Tornatore and Argento
The fact that Turin was Italy’s first capital is evident in its cinema, from Neorealism to erotic comedies, with a profusion of such explicit detective films as Double Game, Black Turin and Torino, centrale del vizio. It was in Turin that the master of horror movies and self-confessed lover of the city, Dario Argento, shot several scenes from one of his first hits, The Cat o' Nine Tails. He went on to film in their entirety his latest works, Do You Like Hitchcock?, Sleepless (Non ho sonno) and Giallo.
The city of the Juventus and Torino football clubs, the annual contenders at the “Derby della Mole”, is also an obligatory stop on the journeys depicted in the perennial classics. Enrico Loverso emigrates from the poor south to the Turinese industrial north in The Way We Laughed (Così ridevano) by Gianni Amelio. In Everybody's Fine (Stanno tutti bene), by Giuseppe Tornatore, an elderly, splendid Marcello Mastroianni visits his adult children distributed across Italy and finds the last of them – of course – in Turin. And, the irascible blind captain played by Vittorio Gassman sets off from Turin station in Scent of a Woman, directed by Dino Risi (the remake, with Al Pacino, came years later). Risi also happened to make his cinema debut in the same Alpine city, when he was assistant director during the shoot of Piccolo mondo antico (Little Ancient World), and it was there, too, that he one night declared his eternal love to the stunning actress, Alida Valli, while they were sitting in a carriage in the rain, in the romantic, lush gardens of the Parco Valentino.
The Setting for Robberies and Spies in American Movies
In The Pink Panther 2, with Steve Martin, one of the city’s most prized treasures is stolen – no less than the Turin Shroud. However, the film that has probably set Turin most on the map is the 1969 cult movie, The Italian Job, by Peter Collinson (which has seen a recent remake). In it, Michael Caine flees with his loot from the carabinieri in his Mini Coopers, through the Palazzo Carignano, along the inner staircases of the Palazzo Madama and around the exterior of the Gran Madre di Dio Church, skidding through the glamorous Galleria San Federico shopping centre, and driving over the flared roof of the Palazzo a Vela, built for the Italia 61 Exhibition and refurbished as a sports centre for the 2006 Winter Olympics. He also drives up the heady oval test track on the old FIAT factory – the city’s veritable economic driving force for decades – housed in the Lingotto building, now a multidisciplinary space for trade fairs and festivals. In his final getaway, his Minis reach the nearby Alps, the formidable mountain range which acts as the backdrop for this stunning city, after having crossed the river Po.
And, opposite the Po stands the majestic Piazza Vittorio Veneto, which appears in The Bourne Ultimatum, a saga starring Matt Damon. However, the café where we later see the fired up secret agent sitting is actually in Madrid! The fact is that the film crew were back working in Spain when a change to the script forced them to repeat the shoot of the scene originally filmed in Turin. The magic of cinema always involves some hidden devices!
If you fancy seeing the city for yourself, secure your ticket here!
Text by Carlos G. Vela para ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Felipe Cadona Colombo, Jean-Pierre Dalbera, Luigi Giordano, Marco Coïsson, MarkusMark, Nicola Gambetti
more infoFive Point Guide to Enjoyment at Seville’s April Fair
The countdown has started to the days when Seville gets decked out in all its colour and finery, dressed up once more in polka-dot and flounced skirts, parading about on horseback and in carriages, a time when Sevillians again dream full blast and the monumental gate at the fairground lights up to announce the start of theFeria de Abril.Each year hordes of visitors – what with locals, regulars, celebrities, tourists and passers-by – descend on Seviile’s fairground to experience what is possibly one of the leading Andalusian festivities, El Rocío notwithstanding, of course. Now, what should newcomers to the Fair do, and what should they know, in order to avoid sticking out like a sore thumb? Here are some pointers to attending the April Fair without dying in the attempt.
1. Origins of the Feria de Abril
What was to become one of the most popular fiestas in Andalusia made its debut some time around 1846. It was created by Narciso Bonaplata and José María de Ybarra, two businessmen resident in Seville. It started out as a purely commercial, agricultural fair but then grew over the years – the first casetas (stalls) began to appear, as did the first decorative elements and it was eventually transferred to its current fairground and transformed into an entertainment event.
2. Where and When
The April Fair is held in grounds located in the district of Los Remedios. The best way to get there is by metro (get off at the Parque de los Príncipes or Plaza de Cuba stops), or the special bus service laid on by the Seville City Council for fair attendees. And no – do not go there by car, because trying to park can turn out to be a nightmare.
As for dates, the Seville Fair is usually held one or two weeks after Holy Week and lasts for six days, although this year, by popular vote, it will be extended by another day.
3. Once in the Fairground…
The fairground is divided into two areas – the Real de la Feria, where the casetas are located, and another known as the Calle del Infierno (Street of Hell), home to the various attractions, which the Sevillians have rechristened as cacharritos (“rattletraps” or “clunkers”). As the saying goes, “a friend in need is a friend indeed” and here, at the Seville Fair, you will need a well-connected friend to facilitate access to the casetas, the only place where you can experience the festivity in all its splendour. Not all the casetas are private, but there are far fewer public ones and they tend to be crowded.
4. Dress Code is Important
Part of the charm of this fiesta resides in the splendid colourfulness of the costumes worn by women, and the elegance of the suits worn by men. Sevillians take the garments they show off at the Feria de Abril very seriously and there are even flamenco fashion labels and catwalks that set the latest trends for the season. So, if you want to avoid being conspicuous, you could hire a costume (you’ll have to fork out about 150 euros a day for a Sevillian dress) or settle for adding some flamenco highlights to your apparel, namely such accessories as the typical flower, earrings, necklace and shawl. As for men, chino or peg trousers and a shirt, with a suit or sports jacket. Bear in mind that the ”Lunes del Alumbrado“ (Monday of Lights), also known as the Noche del Pescaíto (Night of the Little Fish), is the only time when flamenco attire is not worn.
5. “Rebujito” and “Pescaíto” – the Culinary Leading Lights
Rebujito is the April Fair drink par excellence. This combination of a dry sherry – manzanilla or fino – with Sprite, 7 Up or mint has its origins in an English cocktail from the Victorian era known as Sherry Cobbler, and is served up in all the casetas. Beware, though, as the hangover it produces is one of the most feared, so try not to get swept away by all the excitement and drink in moderation. The other leading light of Seville’s Fair is the fried fish or pescaíto frito typically consumed on the “Night of the Alumbrado”, with other notable favourites being chickpeas and codfish, bull’s tail and the churros and buñuelos (fritters) that mark the end of the fiesta.
Fire up and come to Seville’s April Fair, to be held from 30 April to 7 May – book your Vueling here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Photos by Sandra Vallaure
more infoThe ocher jewel of the Mediterranean
Despite being a small redoubt in the middle of the Mediterranean consisting of the inhabited islands of Malta, Gozo and Comino and three uninhabited, Cominotto, Filfla and St. Paul, the Maltese archipelago concentrates a great historical and cultural wealth. Some of their spots are part of the World’s Heritage Site, such as the city of Valletta, the Hypogeum of Hal Saflieni (the only underground temple in the world) and the Megalithic Temples.
One of its universal symbol is the Cross of Malta, that with its eight points represents the eight different nationalities of the Malta’s Order of the Knights and its eight principles to be respected: spirituality, simplicity, humility, compassion, justice, mercy, sincerity and endurance.
Valletta, its capital, is named in honor of Jean Parísto of Vallette, Grand Master of the Order of the Knights of St. John, who managed the reconstruction after the Turks expulsion in 1565.
If there is one Malta can boast about, it is the large number of churches built mainly in the XVII and XVII centuries. There are more than 300 but the most outstanding one is St. John of Valetta. It houses in its interior one of Caravaggio’s masterpieces, The Beheading of Saint John.
An island that is a real movie set. Here have been shot great epic movies like Troy, Ágora or Gladiator. Amenábar chose Fort Ricasoli in Kalkara to represent Ágora’s Alejandria, which also served as a stage set for Gladiator’s Roman Colosseum. Another highlight for the filming of this movie is the Grand Harbour of Velletta, Mediterranean's largest natural harbor.
Next to Spinola Bay in St Julians and in the port of Marsaxlokk there are the best places to enjoy one of Malta’s most characteristic images: the harbor with its traditional colorful boats, the djhajsa and the luzzu, flooding its banks. Traditionally painted in bright colors you will notice in that in the sides they have the ornaments of Osiris Eye, a charm to bring good luck.
Among the straight streets of the old town, Republic Street clearly stands out, it is the main shopping street and thoroughfare in the city, named to commemorate Malta's independence from Britain in 1964. It was Exactly on the 21st of September, a day celebrated with great festivities.
The street combines great palaces like the Gran Maestre, Casa Rocca Piccola and the Museum of Archaeology. Its ancient ocher buildings also stand out at night when lit to bring out its beauty.
You can also enjoy their outdoor markets, like the one set up every day on Merchants Street. And on Sunday, the big market at the gates of the city of Saint James' Ditch. In the fishing village of Marsaxlokk they have one of the most traditional ones, where you discover the authentic taste of Malta. They are the best places to get an idea of the Maltese way of life.
Some of the tours you can do in Malta
Delve into the underground cave of Ghar Dalam
The underground cave of Ghar Dalam (the dark cave) was the home, 6,000 years ago, of the Neolithic inhabitants. Now you can see the remainings of some prehistoric animal ossuaries like hippos, deers and elephants showing that the island was sometime part of the continent.
Dingli Cliffs
Found on the west coast of the island. Its impressive cliffs are ideal for lovers of mountain climbing and rappelling, especially in Ghar Lapsi under the Dingli cliffs.
Mdina
About 10 miles from Veletta there is the town known as "The city of Silence" with medieval narrow streets that draw a maze. It was once the capital of the country and still retainins many spectacular churches and palaces in which to read the history of the island.
Looking for peace: Gozo and Camino
The other two islands of the Maltese archipelago are the ideal destination to enjoy peaceful days in a natural setting. Islands in the hills and valleys where you can walk through their rural trails and creeks leading into the sea. Its crystal clear waters are ideal for water sports such as windsurfing and diving.
In Comino, a small island that actually lives up to its name, you will find exotic beaches, including the famous Blue Lagoon.
Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!
more infoParadise in the Forests of Europe
Located in the heart of Europe, alongside the Rhine valley, this lush area of Germany, with its huge pine and fir forests (which give the landscape its characteristic dark colour), green valleys, lakes, waterfalls and charming villages is one of the most picturesque spots in Europe. The Black Forest is now highly coveted for its rural tourism, as it offers endless potential both as a winter destination and during the months of milder weather. It is advisable to hire a car to get around the region. The best option is to prepare your route, in line with your personal preferences, and stick to it, and it is worth seeking out the occasional higher spots to catch a glimpse of the beautiful scenery.
The North (Nordschwarzwald)
Among other things, here lies the source of the Danube (Donaueschingen), Europe’s longest river. Baden-Baden is a city of spa baths, a magnificent thermal resort with a stunning, luxurious mid-19th-century atmosphere. Apart from spa baths, it boasts casinos and venues for international congresses and meetings. Further north, in the upper Kinzig valley, lies Alpirsbach, known for its old brewery and its landmark Benedictine abbey, the oldest and most important Romanesque building in the Black Forest. Some 20 km north of it is the city of Freundenstadt, situated on the east side of a plateau. In this spa resort, with its priceless old quarter, it is well worth strolling around the market square, one of the largest in the district, flanked by buildings with lofty arches, a church and a fountain in the centre. Close by lies Oberkirch, with its old town featuring some historical buildings, Baroque churches and fragments of the old fortified walls. The ruins of Schauenburg Castle still stand on a hilltop.
The Middle Black Forest (Mittlerer Schwarzwald)
Prominent in the Middle Black Forest is Gengenbach, also located in the Kinzig valley. The town is virtually all built of timber and features narrow streets, beautifully restored houses and a charming medieval centre. Numerous rivers flow through this region, notably the Schutter, Acher, Rench and Kinzig, where all kinds of watersports are available. The city of Offenburg, located hard by the French city of Strasbourg, offers a number of attractions, including the Salmen inn, the Charterhouse, the Ritterhaus, a stately home dating from 1784 – currently a museum housing the city archives – the Jewish baths (Mikwe), thought to originate in medieval times and the Royal Palace (Königshof), designed by Michael Ludwig Rohrer.
The Great South
This is where the forest is most luxuriant, thronging with fir trees that blanket the area in dense foliage. Winter is ideal for sleigh-riding here, as in the town of Schluchsee, while the snow-bound villages like Hinterzarten, situated at an altitude of over 900 metres in the southern Black Forest, seem to be inviting us to take snapshots at dusk. The area is also criss-crossed by footpaths used for cross-country skiing. The village offers a wealth of activities for enthusiasts of winter sports. Freiburg is a striking Gothic city where you should make a point of strolling through its narrow streets and squares and visit the marketplace. It boasts an imposing cathedral in mixed Romanesque and Central-European Gothic style.
Cuisine
One of the best-known delicacies of German cuisine is the local Black Forest cake (schwarzwaldtorte),made of chocolate, cherries and cream. Also worth trying is the honey, which here has a fruity flavour. There are also fine wines, most of them white from the Baden region, although they are not listed by appellation d’origine as in Spain. The Rhine is fringed with small grape-growing districts, between the river and the Black Forest mountains. West of the Rhine valley lie the Vosges mountains which shelter the region from Atlantic rainfall. To the east, the Black Forest itself forms a barrier against cold continental winds. In short, a climate conducive to viticulture. The renowned riesling variety of wine hails from Baden-Baden, in the district of Ortenau, which has its vinicultural capital in Durbach. This is home to the Andreas Laible winery, featuring excellent riesling wines, and the Heinrich Männhle winery, which specialises in red wine of the spätburgunder variety. Local fare includes a wealth of regional dishes associated with a particular wine, such as zwiebelkuchen (onion pie), typically accompanied with a young wine known as federweisser.
Don’t miss the chance to see it all! Check out our prices here!
Text by Isabel y Luis Comunicación
Photos by TI Schluchsee, Vogtsburg Tourist Board, TI Seebach / Elmar largo Bacher, Tourist-Info Schluchsee, Gengenbach Culture and Germany Tourism. Schwarzwald Tourismus
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