Aix en Provence Fountains Cézanne and Much More
Situated just 25 kilometres north of Marseille lies this, the former capital of Provence. Its original settlers were drawn to the site on account of its numerous natural springs, while nowadays it is a magnet for university students and tourists. This must-visit stopover on any Provence itinerary is a city best defined by the word “elegance”. Some have even ventured to compare it with Paris, albeit on a much smaller scale. Here, then, are some of the keys to discovering Aix-en-Provence.
Cours Mirabeau, the Old Quarter and the Quartier Mazarin
Sandwiched between the Old Quarter to the north, and the Quartier Mazarin to the south, Cours Mirabeau is Aix’s major landmark. This pleasant thoroughfare with its moss-lined fountains, canopy of plane-trees and magnificent Renaissance mansions invites visitors to stroll along and stop at any of the many cafés and terraces on the avenue, veritable vantage points for soaking up the amazing atmosphere. One of the most popular such cafés is Deux Garçons, once frequented by Paul Cézanne, Émile Zola and Albert Camus.
Wandering through Aix’s Old Quarter is another of the pleasures held out by this city. Here, you can stroll around the pedestrian precinct, enjoy the shopping areas and uncover half-concealed enclaves which are ideal for whiling away the time – the Place d’Albertas is a case in point.
Unlike the Old Quarter, the Quartier Mazarin is more neatly laid out. Here, you will come across its striking hôtels particuliers – the name given to large mansions that once belonged to the nobility and the haute bourgeoisie. This area was designed in the 17th century on the initiative of Archbishop Michel Mazarin. Among its leading landmarks is the Granet Museum, housed in a former Knights of Malta priory, featuring an exhibition of the paintings of François Granet, in addition to Italian, French and Flemish works, and an excellent collection of modern art.
On the Cézanne Trail
The other great icon of the city is the Post-Impressionist, Paul Cézanne, who was born and died here and who captured the landscapes of Provence in many of his works. We recommend you head for the Atelier Cézanne, on the north side of the old quarter, where you can see how the artist approached his work. You won’t however, see a single Cézanne original. If you’re feeling sprightly enough, you can walk up to the Terrain des Peintres (Painters’ Park), a small, quiet park which attracts a large number of artists and the spot where Cézanne painted his multiple versions of Mont Sainte-Victoire.
The Vasarely Foundation – Op-Art in its Pristine State
Located on the outskirts of Aix, the Vasarely Foundation is well worth the effort visiting for its highly original architecture, based on conjoined hexagonal cells, and the exhibition it houses of the pop-art oeuvre of Victor Vasarely. All the exhibits here are large-format. They draw the viewer into the unusual world of this genuine artist, featuring optical effects guaranteed to impress.
Book your Vueling to Marseille and discover Provence – one of France’s most beautiful regions – by visiting some of its most evocative towns, as Aix-en-Provence most certainly is.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by vasse nicolas,antoine, Milena, Sjaak Kempe, Connie Ma, Andrea Schaffer
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Sky scraping Terraces in Madrid
After a long day visiting some of Madrid’s wonderful museums, delighting in its magnificent monuments, strolling along its streets (and getting lost) or just doing some shopping, we can certify that the best way of taking a breather – now that the good weather has arrived – is by taking in the views from the city’s heights while sipping on a refreshing beverage and savouring a culinary speciality. Here is our selection of some of the city’s best roof terraces to round off a long day’s work or sightseeing and to “kiss the Madrid sky”.
Círculo de Bellas Artes Rooftop
Currently all the rage, it is a must for anyone visiting Madrid. Just a few steps away from the Calle Alcalá, the marvellous views afforded by its rooftop are one of its major claims to fame – it is well worth the 4-euro admission fee. You can also indulge in their Tartan Roof culinary delicacies, crafted by their chef, Javier Muñoz-Calero.
Cibeles Terrace
Very near the Círculo de Bellas Artes, in Cibeles Square itself, stands the former Palacio de Telecomunicaciones which since 2011 is home to the Madrid City Hall and the CentroCentro cultural centre. For a 2-euro admission fee you can go up to the 8th-floor observation platform which offers 360° views of the city, with signs located at various spots on the terrace pinpointing Madrid’s major landmarks. Your visit can be enhanced by also stopping off on the sixth floor to access the Terraza Cibeles, where you can enjoy luxury cocktails accompanied by culinary delicacies while soaking up the splendid views. Be warned, though – the experience comes at a price (30 euros per head), and you are advised to book ahead.
Sabatini Terrace
Located on the rooftop of the Jardines de Sabatini Apartosuites, right opposite the Royal Palace, make a point of visiting their terrace merely to delight in the spectacular sunset extravaganza, with the palace in the background. You can embellish this stunning picture by ordering some delicious tapas and portions prepared by the chef, Chema de Isidro, and pair them with one of their wonderful cocktails. Advance booking is recommended.
El Viajero
In the heart of La Latina, right next to the popular Plaza de la Cebada, stands this two-storey bar-restaurant with a rooftop affording striking views of the Church of San Francisco. Their mojito is the star of the evening and you can accompany it with tasty pinchos and portions. This is the ideal spot to end off a long day’s sightseeing in the city and work up an appetite for the Madrilenian night.
Terraza del Urban
The icing on the cake of the luxury Hotel Urban – a five-star located in the Carrera de San Jerónimo – is this fantastic terrace, a summer classic in Madrid. Suitable for lovers of chic, you can also dip your feet in the pool while you savour some of their superb cocktails. While a bit on the expensive side, it is well worth the experience.
The Roof
Another hotel, the ME Hotel Madrid, is home to our next recommendation – The Roof. The roof terrace of this magnificent Modernist building is the perfect place to have a drink and enjoy the music while taking in some stunning views of the city backdrop.
Casa de Granada
Our last recommendation is situated next to the Plaza Tirso de Molina. To reach the roof terrace, you have to call on the intercom and go up in a narrow lift, but the ride ends with a reward – a splendid terrace offering finger-licking tapas in an interior with classical decor.
Now that you know where to secure some of the best views of Madrid, take a Vueling and experience them for yourself.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Ángela Ojeda Heyper
more infoLocal Design Gems
Walking through central Prague it’s hard not to get trapped in the elaborate net of touristy souvenir shops and hot wine stands. But just like in the Dark Ages, there is a hidden layer to the today’s city bustling with lights, sights and stores. Jewelry, accessories and home décor by local artists feeding on the country’s rich design traditions may be hard to spot by accident – but now you don’t have to.
ARTĚL
Started by Karen Feldman back in 1988, now ARTĚL is a renowned glassware brand with 2 stores in Prague and a reputation far beyond. Today, they carry Karen’s own patterned glass items as well as countless multidisciplinary articles by young local designers. Earrings to candles and rings to buttons and postcards, ARTĚL is a seminal element in the local design scene.
Celetná 29 (entrance on Rybná), Prague 1
www.artelglass.com
open daily 10:00-19:00
KUBISTA
Housed in a gorgeous cubist building called the House of the Black Madonna, Kubista shares it with the Czech Museum of Cubism and the Grand Café Orient restaurant upstairs. Focusing on one-of-a-kind cubist (and other) jewelry, lamps, and ceramics, Kubista offers a refined, intimate shopping experience. Each item has the designer’s name on the tag, and extra careful packing and shipping for fragile purchases are available.
Ovocný trh 19, Prague 1
www.kubista.cz/en/
open Tue to Sun 10:00-18:30
DOX DESIGNSHOP
The DOX Centre for Contemporary Art is alone worth a visit, but the Designshop within it puts the huge complex on the must visit map. Attracting a younger crowd in terms of both buyers and designers, the DOX Designshop shows how ambitious artists experiment with jewelry as well as traditionally Czech glass and porcelain,. The Bookshop right nearby offers the best design, art and photo book selection in town.
Poupětova 1, Prague 7
www.dox.cz/en/premises-and-shops/designshop
open Mon 10:00-18:00, Wed & Fri 11:00–19:00, Thu 11:00-21:00, Sat & Sun 10:00–18:00
closed Tuesday
FUTURISTA
A unique gallery slash shop slash workshop spot right next to the Bethlehem Chapel, Futurista Universum strives to offer what’s freshest in the local design world. Go there for an impressive selection of contemporary jewelry with an edge, cheeky accessories, and beautiful minimalist glassware. Check the website for the list of current exhibitions.
Betlémské náměstí 5a, Prague 1
www.futurista.cz/en/stranka-o-nas-2
open Mon to Fri 11:00-18:30, Sat 10:00-18:30
BELDAFACTORY
A family-run business dating back to the 1920-s, BELDAFACTORY fuses classical, contemporary and quirky in their distinctive jewelry, wedding rings and tableware designs. Made by hand with metal, precious stones and enamel, these are offered in their very own shop in central Prague, along with selected works by other local artists. Unique glass and porcelain articles are also available.
Mikulandská 10, Prague 1
www.belda.cz/english
open Mon to Fri 11:00-18:00
Image: Kubista
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Berlin’s Fleamarket Scene. Lazy Sunday Afternoons
Words: Jos Porath – Photos: Lena Aliper
Sunday is the day of rest?! Not so in Berlin. While the party crowd is still going strong, or else nursing their hangovers, sipping espressos and hiding behind dark shades, treasure seekers, bargain hunters and lovers of curiosities flock to the flea markets that pop up all over this mecca of kitsch and knick-knacks on the weekend. Something of a time-honoured tradition, many of the capital’s streets, parks and squares transform into bustling Wunderkabinetts that are a must-do for anyone after a unique gift (to others or self), or a souvenir of the best way to do Sunday strolling in Berlin.
While antiques, vintage clothes, GDR memorabilia, attic finds and someone’s-junk-another-one’s-treasure pieces still dominate, many vendors are also local artists, fashion designers or jewellery makers, offering a chance to snap up one-of-a-kind item particular to Berlin’s creative scene. With twenty plus flea markets to chose from on most weekends, the following top three picks showcase the best of what the barter-and-bargain scene has to offer.
Mauerpark
For those not shy of rubbing shoulders, the flea market at Mauerpark is a must-see. Berlin’s biggest and busiest flea market, this maze features everything from Edwardian nightgowns over formica coffee tables to oversized 1980s knit sweaters, and local designers and artists, and fresh food and drinks stalls to boot. Plan a whole day first scouting the goods, then hang out in the adjoining park watching bands, buskers and performers, or get involved in some open air karaoke.
Bernauer Straße 63-64, Prenzlauer Berg
U8 Bernauer Straße
Sunday, 7 am – 5 pm
Tram M10 Friedrch-Ludwig-Jahn-Sportpark
Arkonaplatz
A five-minute walk from Mauerpark, the flea market at Arkonaplatz is located in a leafy, residential part of town. A much smaller and more upscale/less digging through smelly boxes affair, browsing and shopping here has an almost bespoke quality to it. While the vendors finding, selecting, cleaning and repairing the goods on offer at this market is reflected in the prices, it can make for a welcome shortcut to finding pieces that are either in astonishing condition or have been lovingly restored.
On Arkonaplatz, Prenzlauer Berg
Sunday, 10 am – 4 pm
Tram M1/M12 Zionskirchplatz
Nowkoelln Flowmarkt/Kreuzboerg Flowmarkt
Berlin is becoming younger, hipper and more international by the day, and the flea markets most reflective of these exciting changes are the Nowkoelln Flowmarkt near the canal at Maybachufer, as well as Kreuzboerg flea market in the Prinzessinnengardens in the heart of Kreuzberg. Aiming to attract a younger crowd with a well-presented and priced selection of hip second hand items, trendy vintage pieces and timeless design objects, as well as top notch food and coffee stalls, the two markets are a great place to stroll, browse and people-watch.
Nowkoelln Flowmarkt, Neukölln
Maybachufer
Every first and third Sunday of the month, 10 am – 6 pm
U8 Schönleinstraße
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Kreuzboerg Flowmarkt
Prinzessinnengärten, Kreuzberg
Every second and fourth Sunday of the month, 10 am – 6 pm
U8/Bus M29 Moritzplatz
Words: Jos Porath – Photos: Lena Aliper
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