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De Pijp

Nobody knows for sure why that is the name of the neighborhood. The literal translation is “the pipe”, it is told that because of the form of its streets. And as any pipe, it has its own drain. De Pijp finds its drain in the oasis of Sharphatipark, an English-style garden where you get away from the daily bustle.In it, it is easy to see single mothers after school, aesthetes with dog, teenagers wanting to be rappers and the couple of policemen from the neighborhood, of course, by bicycle.

Process, although is familiar to us, is always surprising. It had been a working class neighborhood, if ever with some students and budding artists searching for cheap rentals. Towards the decades of the sixties and seventies of last century, it welcomed a great number of immigrants. Today the neighborhood has become bourgeois. In all these changes, the metamorphosis is very simple: muffins are now called cupcakes, modern people circulate in fixed pinion bicycles, the rim of the glasses fattens and dogs acquire odd shapes: they shrivel dogs, stylize their figure and even have session at the hairdresser, sorry, the hair stylist, and the psychologist.. As if by magic, rents go up a 300 percent and the area acquires a right to be called bohemian.

We now have the island in the middle of the city, competing for the night out between renowned artists and the very neighborhood of Joordan. And when I say the island is not metaphorical, De Pijp is connected to the rest of the city by 16 bridges that pass over the very familiar channels representing the exported image of the Dutch capital. About the renowned artists is not from now. Piet Mondrian founded the magazine De Stijl, which served as a speaker to the eponymous group of artists, in a small study on the channel Ruysdaelkade.

But in the end, what gives personality to the neighborhood is the market called Cuypmarkt Albert and a real United Nations gastronomy distributed throughout the neighborhood, inside discrete premises, with more or less charm. The market has that English style, similar to Notting Hill . A little walking around there and you will become friends with the shopkeeper, the florist will reserve the best tulips, not those sold by weight to tourists, tourists who incidentally rather spend time here. The baker will have the bread ready for doneness that you like and will offer good cheese wedges perfect for taking a wine in good company. The simplicity of the little details. In Albert Cuypmarkt, you may buy everything. We talk about the biggest daily street market in Europe, Amsterdam’s kitchen. You will realize that you are fully integrated when you come down to enjoy the haring (raw herring) with neighbors.

As for restaurants, think about any dish in the world. They say up to 150 nationalities are now living in the neighborhood, many of them with its own place. A thousand of different smells from spices, pad thai, durum or sate. Choose any. Although admittedly that Amsterdam and good food are not close friends, it will be almost impossible to come out of De Pijp without having found your own site. Almost the least of it, anecdotal, is that the neighborhood start in the very touristy Heineken Experience museum, the limit for each side of the neighborhood, the barrier between mass tourism that walks around Leidseplein and bohemian in the hipster garb who stroll through the neighborhood.

By Rafa Pérez from El Fotógrafo Viajero

 

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Bayonne A City That Tastes of Chocolate and Ham

Bayonne, capital of the French Basque Country, is one of the most surprising cities in the new French region of Aquitaine-Lemosín-Poitou-Charentes. Basque from head to toe, this city located at the confluence of the rivers Nive and Adour is well worth strolling through, as you will discover buildings that stand out for their colourful facades and traditional half-timbering. This reveals the Basque influence and indeed Bayonne is part of the historical territory of Labourd – Lapurdi, in Basque. One of the most widely visited spots in the city is the Basque Museum, which features one of the most important ethnographic collections in southern France. Their culture is present in some local businesses, such as the shops selling typical Basque fabric, in such sports as pelota – very popular among the Bayonnais – and in the language, as French and Basque coexist in Bayonne.

Bayonne, in the department of Pyrénées-Atlantiques, has long been unjustly upstaged by the thermal baths and glitter of neighbouring Biarritz, located less than 10 kilometres away. The historic centre of this locality in Aquitaine is made up of three quarters – Grand Bayonne, Petit Bayonne and Saint-Esprit. Prominent in the first of these is the Cathedral of Sainte-Marie de Bayonne, with its wonderful 13th-century cloister, the Château-Vieux (Old Castle), built in the 12th century by the Viscounts of Lapurdi, and the Spanish Gate, which the old main road leading to the border once passed through. In the Grand Bayonne you can also make out the three walls that encircled the city in former times – one, of Roman origin, a second from the period of King Francis I (early 16th century) and the last one designed by Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban in the second half of the 17th century.

Petit Bayonne, for its part, is a secluded quarter presided over by the Château-Neuf (New Castle), built by Charles IV in the 15th century. Sited in this area is the aforementioned Basque Museum, on the Nive riverbank, housed in a 16th-century palace known as the Maison Dagourette. Inaugurated in 1922, it is a veritable ethnographic gem, boasting displays ranging from traditional burial sites to houses, furniture and craftwork. Lastly, on the far side of the river lies Saint-Esprit, with the citadel and train station as its major landmarks. That is where Spanish and Portuguese immigrant Jews lived after fleeing from the Inquisition.

Gastronomy in Bayonne

Bayonne market is an ideal place for trying the city’s typical dishes, like the tasty Gâteau Basque,in addition to cured ham, accompanied by peppers from the neighbouring town of Espelette, and chocolate, brought here by the Jews from the Iberian Peninsula who settled in Bayonne. Apart from the market, one of the streets treasured by lovers of the cocoa derivative is Rue Port Neuf,home to a number of craft workshops such as L’Atelier du Chocolat, where a delightful spicy chocolate is made, and Chocolats Cazenave, an establishment which has been running for one and a half centuries and counts among its specialities water-based chocolate and mousse.

Bayonne Mini-Guide

Sleep at…

The Hôtel & Restaurant Les Basses Pyrénées, a central hotel located just a few minutes from the Cathedral and Spanish Gate.

For a meal, be sure to visit…

La Karafe (25, Quai Jaureguiberry), with typicalpinchosand sausage.

Brasserie du Trinquet (4, Rue du Jeu de Paume), sited next to a court where Basque pelota is played on Thursdays.

You can shop at…

Tissage de Luz (3, rue Port de Castets) who sell tablecloths, bags and bedclothes bearing the typical Basque hallmark, as well as other more modern types in bright colours.


The airport of San Sebastián lies 40 kilometres from Bayonne. Book your Vueling here and discover it for yourself!

Text by Tus Destinos

Images by B. BLOCH - CRTA y tuvemafoto-OT Bayonne 

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Bologna, the 'sauciest' Italian

By Belén Parra and Carme Gasull

Characterised and recognised due to its age-old attributes, we suggest approaching Bologna from the perspective of all there is to see (Rossa), to get to know (Dota) and, above all, to taste (Grassa) in this city, which is also the capital of Emilia Romagna, the epicentre of an Italy that is always rich when it comes to gastronomy.

ROSSA (tourist spots to SEE and get to know)

The traveller's eyes bulge at its kilometres of porticos and the range of colours in its buildings. That is exactly why we advise looking around it on foot. Visiting at the weekend has the added value that the whole historic quarter is closed to traffic and it is a pedestrian area for two days.

Bologna is marked out in a way by its 5 gates, which are both an entrance to the historic quarter and also let you get to know the 'other city'. Get away to this green lung made up of its gardens and its hills to see it from a height.

You'll find few squares more beautiful than the Delle Siete Chiese, especially when it is lit up. A stronghold for romantics, bohemians and nostalgics.

Like a good Italian, Bologna is also tremendous. The Due Torri, Santa Maria Maggiore and Neptuno are impressive. But you will also come across neverending avenues, the Galerías Cavour (Via Luigi Carlo Farini, 40) to ‘stay fashionable’ and the historical palazzi or buildings restored for cultural purposes, such as the old Town Hall with its marvellous public library called Salaborsa (Piazza Nettuno, 3) - ideal for trips with children.

DOTA (curiosities, warnings and things worth KNOWING)

They say that Bologna is the oldest city in the oldest country in the world. And the truth is that it has the oldest University in Europe, which not only students from all over Italy want to attend, but also from all over Europe - especially Erasmus students - and ones from further afield. Note: get a place in Law or Fine Arts. In the streets and bars, don't be surprised to hear more than one or two languages at a time. It's not only the tourists but also the people who have chosen to study and live in this city. Because there is lots of Italy beyond Rome, Venice and Florence...

The capital of Emilia Romagna is eminently a city of fairs, and it houses one of the most modern and functional trade fair venues of old Europe, BolognaFiere.

With good connections, the bicycle is the preferred form of local transport, but the bus is the quickest way to move around ‘fuori porte’. But be aware that paying for a ticket on board is a little more expensive than purchasing it in advance at a newsagents. There are a few places where you can learn the art of making homemade pasta but two stand out: the Vecchia Scuola Bolognese (Via Galliera, 11) and La Bottega Due Portici (Via Independenza, 69).

GRASSA (where and what to EAT and drink)

In Italy you can't really eat badly anywhere, but it's a fact that in Bologna you eat especially well. Its title of città del cibo (food) is as right as it is true.

The pasta that identifies this land is the tortellini, and the sauce, ragù. To try some of the best dishes from Bologna, go to the Trattoria AnnaMaria ( Via delle Belle Arti, 17/a), one of the most traditional premises in the city. All the photographs on its walls are evidence of the hundreds of performers and celebrities that have eaten at its tables.

The crescentina or crescenta is the best local bread. Spongy and tasty if it is homemade. And if you accompany it with local mortadela salami and regional parmesan cheese, then you've got a meal. In this regard, a trip through the Salsamenteria Tamburini (Via Caprarie, 1) is a must - a unchangeable classic that has know how to adapt to times and demand. In fact, its wine cellar is the corner that is most in demand and is also the cosiest of the whole establishment.

Very nearby you also have the Osteria del Sole (Vicolo Ranocchi, 1/d) - a unique premises wherever it is. You are only asked to drink here because you can bring your own snacks even from home. Nevertheless, people usually arrive with their piadine, focaccie and cold meats to share them with the whole table. If you don't mind drinking one thing or another, we recommend that you try the homemade beer while you're here. The birra is a must.

For wine tastings, pass by Alla Porta Vini (Via Castiglione, 79/a). Every day, they open a few bottles of wine for tasting. Amongst their preferences, those from the Southern Alps and from small producers.

La Osteria al Cappello Rosso (via dè Fusari, 9/b) is another of those delightful places where you will also want to eat everything you see. Local products used in traditional recipes and served in generous portions. Don't miss its selection of cold meats or its Lambrusco (a source of pride for the region) or its 'torta bolognesa', the typical cake of the city made from rice.

If you feel like an ice cream, don't hesitate to choose La Sorbetteria Castiglione (Via Castiglione, 44) or Il Gelatauro (Via San Vitale 98/b). And if instead you prefer a creamy ice-pop (on a stick), go to the Cremeria Sette Chiese (Via Santo Stefano, 14/a).

The Mercato delle Erbe (Via Hugo Bassi, 25) will charm your senses, above all those of sight and taste. Although there are many shops with good, fresh products. There is also the seafood. See for yourself at the Pescheria del Pavaglione (Via Pescherie Vecchie, 14) where, besides buying, you can taste an original Aperyfish - which doesn't need to be translated.

Also go to Paolo Atti & Figli (Via Caprarie, 7), a shop with traditional gastronomy known for the quality of its breads, cakes and fresh pasta.

Elegant and refined, Zanarini (Piazza Galvani, 1) is the historic café of the city and one of the preferred places for locals to have breakfast, a good cup of coffee and a better cake, and, of course, to see and be seen.

And another very special place, leaving the centre of the city behind: Il Cerfoglio, a restaurant committed to organic produce and km 0 in light, healthy and well made dishes (Via John Fitzgerald Kennedy, 11, San Lazzaro).

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Destination: Gambia. The Gateway to Africa

By Clara Arnedo

I’ve just got back from Gambia and some of the sights still linger in my mind: the rainbow that appears onTanji beach every day at sunset, when fishing boats laden with fish come back to the port, and the whole town takes part in collecting and selling the fresh fish. These are just a few of the memories that this small but perfect country leaves with you, to help you get an idea of what Africa is really like. Now Vueling makes it easier for us to travel to the Gambia, with a new route connecting Barcelona and Banjul, the capital of the country.

The journey starts in the capital, Banjul, a city that is small and pleasant. And so is the country, with a population of 1.6 million. Banjul is a relatively safe and peaceful city, where it is worth exploring the crowded colourful markets selling all kinds of wares. The most outstanding is Albert Market, a large typically African market mainly selling fruit, vegetables and fish. When sellers and customers see us they are reluctant at first and quickly avoid our cameras. But after a while they gradually become more open and available. All they need is a little time.

Another attraction in the city is Arch 22, in honour of the president, the bodyguard of the former president, who took his position on 22 June 1994. Since then he has been the great protagonist of the Gambia: we see Yahya Jammeh everywhere – on posters stuck on walls and lampposts in every village and every town.

But the Gambia is especially a country with a coast that opens out to the Atlantic Ocean; a wedge-shaped country that cuts into Senegal and is divided in two by the river that gives the country its name – the Gambia.

First we go to the coast to discover the long, fine sand beaches of Banjul. There are hotels on the seafront, affording a spectacular view of the ocean. But the most memorable fishing scene has got to be Tanji, where you can find a flurry of colours and life every evening on the shore when the fish is brought in. It seems like chaos but there is actually an internal organisation and hierarchy, and laws that enable the same spectacle to happen every day at sunset. The men are strong and muscular and are in charge of carrying tons of fish from the boats to the beach, balancing the baskets on their heads. Once they are on the shore, the women collect the treasure to wash it and prepare it to be sold… young men run further to look for spots to set up and sell the fish. The children often follow, running fast at their heels, hoping to catch a bit of fish that might fall on the way. This makeshift fish market on the sand is the tip of the iceberg of this small country that is bursting with life. In the morning, in that same spot, a colourful fruit and vegetable market materialises, dominated by women buying and selling food. One of these women is Ida Cham Njai, a beautiful and energetic chef who offers the unique experience of accompanying her to shop in the market, and then spending a pleasant day cooking local produce with her at her home. The gastronomy and local produce are the best ways to learn a bit more about this pleasant destination.

A British redoubt in colonial times, it is now one of the smallest countries in West Africa. It also has one of the highest birth rates. The Gambia is full of children, and mothers who wrap them to their hips: it is a beautiful and typical scene of the country. The rest of the country is made up of the jungle, nature and many animals: monkeys, birds and even hippos. The further upstream you go, the wilder nature is, and the more rural the population is… it is a wild adventure to go up the river towards the town of Georgetown, because there are not many places for accommodation. Tourism is not widely developed in the Gambia, and that is part of its charm. In any case, you don’t have to travel very far from Banjul to discover the wild. NearSerrekunda, the largest and busiest city in the country, we find Bijilo National Park, or Monkey Park, which includes easy paths to walk around. In this area you can also visit a crocodile pond, and you can even touch one of the crocodiles! This is the other side of the Gambia, with its river and mangrove swamps; the more authentic Gambia, one of the least developed countries on earth, with a life expectancy of 54 years and a literacy rate of 40%.

But this is not the end of the journey, and the Gambia, despite being a small country, still has a few surprises in store for us. Can you imagine remote African villages invaded by Street Art and graffiti? Well, this is what you can find in the Gambia. Specifically in Bafuloto and Makumbaya – two names that are hard to remember, two villages with small and simple houses, streets made of sand and dirt, where children play under the sun. And on the walls of these huts is where the Wide Open Walls movement found one of its favourite canvases. Pictures that depict nature, with animals from the area and other motifs that fill these places with colour.

A great way of discovering the Gambia from different perspective. Another way of penetrating Africa through this small gateway.

By Clara Arnedo

 

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