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Destination: Gambia. The Gateway to Africa

By Clara Arnedo

I’ve just got back from Gambia and some of the sights still linger in my mind: the rainbow that appears onTanji beach every day at sunset, when fishing boats laden with fish come back to the port, and the whole town takes part in collecting and selling the fresh fish. These are just a few of the memories that this small but perfect country leaves with you, to help you get an idea of what Africa is really like. Now Vueling makes it easier for us to travel to the Gambia, with a new route connecting Barcelona and Banjul, the capital of the country.

The journey starts in the capital, Banjul, a city that is small and pleasant. And so is the country, with a population of 1.6 million. Banjul is a relatively safe and peaceful city, where it is worth exploring the crowded colourful markets selling all kinds of wares. The most outstanding is Albert Market, a large typically African market mainly selling fruit, vegetables and fish. When sellers and customers see us they are reluctant at first and quickly avoid our cameras. But after a while they gradually become more open and available. All they need is a little time.

Another attraction in the city is Arch 22, in honour of the president, the bodyguard of the former president, who took his position on 22 June 1994. Since then he has been the great protagonist of the Gambia: we see Yahya Jammeh everywhere – on posters stuck on walls and lampposts in every village and every town.

But the Gambia is especially a country with a coast that opens out to the Atlantic Ocean; a wedge-shaped country that cuts into Senegal and is divided in two by the river that gives the country its name – the Gambia.

First we go to the coast to discover the long, fine sand beaches of Banjul. There are hotels on the seafront, affording a spectacular view of the ocean. But the most memorable fishing scene has got to be Tanji, where you can find a flurry of colours and life every evening on the shore when the fish is brought in. It seems like chaos but there is actually an internal organisation and hierarchy, and laws that enable the same spectacle to happen every day at sunset. The men are strong and muscular and are in charge of carrying tons of fish from the boats to the beach, balancing the baskets on their heads. Once they are on the shore, the women collect the treasure to wash it and prepare it to be sold… young men run further to look for spots to set up and sell the fish. The children often follow, running fast at their heels, hoping to catch a bit of fish that might fall on the way. This makeshift fish market on the sand is the tip of the iceberg of this small country that is bursting with life. In the morning, in that same spot, a colourful fruit and vegetable market materialises, dominated by women buying and selling food. One of these women is Ida Cham Njai, a beautiful and energetic chef who offers the unique experience of accompanying her to shop in the market, and then spending a pleasant day cooking local produce with her at her home. The gastronomy and local produce are the best ways to learn a bit more about this pleasant destination.

A British redoubt in colonial times, it is now one of the smallest countries in West Africa. It also has one of the highest birth rates. The Gambia is full of children, and mothers who wrap them to their hips: it is a beautiful and typical scene of the country. The rest of the country is made up of the jungle, nature and many animals: monkeys, birds and even hippos. The further upstream you go, the wilder nature is, and the more rural the population is… it is a wild adventure to go up the river towards the town of Georgetown, because there are not many places for accommodation. Tourism is not widely developed in the Gambia, and that is part of its charm. In any case, you don’t have to travel very far from Banjul to discover the wild. NearSerrekunda, the largest and busiest city in the country, we find Bijilo National Park, or Monkey Park, which includes easy paths to walk around. In this area you can also visit a crocodile pond, and you can even touch one of the crocodiles! This is the other side of the Gambia, with its river and mangrove swamps; the more authentic Gambia, one of the least developed countries on earth, with a life expectancy of 54 years and a literacy rate of 40%.

But this is not the end of the journey, and the Gambia, despite being a small country, still has a few surprises in store for us. Can you imagine remote African villages invaded by Street Art and graffiti? Well, this is what you can find in the Gambia. Specifically in Bafuloto and Makumbaya – two names that are hard to remember, two villages with small and simple houses, streets made of sand and dirt, where children play under the sun. And on the walls of these huts is where the Wide Open Walls movement found one of its favourite canvases. Pictures that depict nature, with animals from the area and other motifs that fill these places with colour.

A great way of discovering the Gambia from different perspective. Another way of penetrating Africa through this small gateway.

By Clara Arnedo

 

Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!

 

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Welcome to Bergreen

Proof of this is Berlin’s recent designation as the new vegetarian capital of the world, according to the prestigious American magazine, Saveur. Berliners love the green life. They are second to none when it comes to protecting their parks and gardens, and extending them as much as they can, wherever possible. And, in recent times, they have proved to be open to new procedures geared to eliciting a growing respect for the urban environment.

Public parks are practically an extension of their lounge, particularly in summer, when residents take them over for all kinds of outdoor activity. Each tree is protected and anyone who lacks their own family allotment is free to join any of the initiatives designed to boost the proliferation of community gardens. The fact is that Berlin is a city enamoured of environmental trends. For many Berliners, bicycles have replaced cars as a status symbol. At DIY workshops, they are learning to make their own clothes and furniture, eschewing industrial mass production, which its more harmful to the environment. In short, the LOHAS (“lifestyle of health and sustainability”) tenet is adopted by many here. Hence, today’s Berliner is a person who enjoys the pleasures of life, while following a healthy diet and making sustainable consumer decisions.

The Capital of Healthy Food

And, that is not just our opinion – the prestigious American culinary magazine, Saveur, has just granted Berlin the “Saveur Good Taste Award” for the best vegetarian city in the world. Indeed, when it comes to gastronomy, the city is far more than just currywurst and kebab. Recent progress in Berlin’s gastronomic trends is clearly a praiseworthy development. Any gourmand will tell you so – and not for nothing – as there are some 30 vegan and a total of 300 vegetarian restaurants and food stalls making up that health food network.

Thus, the changes in Berlin’s gastronomic scene are widely recognised. High-end vegetarian offerings surpass the meat-based supply, long a traditional mainstay. As well, recent years have seen the influence of immigration coming into the limelight, bringing culinary traditions that have contributed notably to the new variety in vegetarian and vegan cuisine.

Vegetarian Restaurants You Must Try

Vegetarian food now lies at the heart of Berlin’s culinary scene. Cookies Cream, for example, is one of the best known for its exclusiveness and for being a trendsetter among vegetarian restaurants. In 2014 it featured in Gault Millau, one of the leading nouvelle cuisine guides in the world. Here, the set menu works out at about 39 euros and includes such marvels as Sardinian crunchy potato lasagna with Swiss cheese truffle, pickled kohlrabi (a variety of cabbage) and radish. Another Berlin beacon is the restaurant offering innovative vegan cuisine, Lucky Leek. It also made its way into the prestigious Michelin Guide a short while ago. They serve à la carte on Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, with complete menus on Friday and Saturday. Additionally, a growing number of chefs, like those at Nobelhart & Schmutzig, are using locally grown organic ingredients. Even fast-food street stalls are offering vegetarian snacks. Further information at visitBerlin.com.

In short, vegetarian trends are developing in synch with a new, far more complex movement based on sustainability. There is, for instance, a growing demand to reinforce the organic fabric and a call to broaden the reach of vegetarian and social cuisine projects. One example is the imminent inauguration of Restlos Glücklich, which is to feature leftover food on its menu. This involves a new, much more sustainable business concept and a more responsible attitude towards the environment. The raw materials in their cuisine are still fresh, yet they have been withdrawn from sale for whatever reasons (the sell-by date is nearing, there isn’t sufficient storage space for the surplus, etc.). This means that the menu changes every day, as it depends on the food that is available in each instance. Apart from feeding their guests, the idea of the restaurant is to raise awareness. The establishment also offers cooking lessons and organises activities for children.

Accommodation

To round off the green experience, what better than to spend the night at NH Collection Berlin Friedrichstrase. This is an eco-friendly hotel which takes into account a positive impact on the environment through responsible energy consumption. And, how do you reduce your carbon footprint on the environment? By reducing energy consumption with the use of light bulbs that yield a saving of 29.3%, in addition to a 29.5% reduction in water consumption.

Why wait to discover Bergreen for yourself? Check out our flights here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Restlos Glücklich, Cookies Cream, Lucky Leek, Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Restlos Glücklich

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Reminiscences of British Minorca

No, we’re not thinking of homing in on all the Britons who travel to the island – and there are quite a few of them – or visiting the places they frequent, which could well be the subject of another post. Instead, let’s take a closer look at a period of Minorca’s past which still lingers there. Apart from boasting many beautiful beaches, the fact is this Balearic island occupies a strategic location in the Mediterranean. In previous centuries this led it to become a prize coveted by all in their jostle to control the trade routes across the Mare Nostrum. This small stretch of sea was fought over by Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals, Normans, Arabs, Spaniards, English and French.

This time we are focusing on the British crown, which occupied Minorca for nearly a century – from 1708 to 1802 – which ended with the signing of the Treaty of Amiens. A period when the British left their mark on the island’s people, architecture, language and cuisine and in many other ways.

The first example that comes to mind is the presence of Anglicisms in Minorcan,with such words as fáitim (fight him), joques (jokes) or fingles (fingers), or expressions like quatre mens i un boi (i.e. “four men and a boy”, meaning very few people) or fer un trinqui (“have atrinqui” from “drink”).

Gastronomy is another facet of Minorcan culture where the British have left their imprint. In the old recipes, lard is used instead of the native olive oil, while one of the island’s traditional desserts –greixera dolça– is a reworking of an English steam pudding. The pomada,one of the most popular cocktails in Minorca and a mainstay in all its festivals, contains gin – Minorcan gin – which, as you may have surmised, was introduced by the British.

Also well preserved are numerousarchitectural remainsdating back to the period of the British occupation which are well worth visiting when you happen to be on the island. Here are some of the most noteworthy examples:

The area around Mahón harbour. During their time on the island, the British made concerted efforts to build defence works around the harbour in the form of numerous forts and towers designed to withstand enemy assault. Once such example is Fort Marlborough, located in the Esteve Cove south of the port. It was built from 1720 to 1726 and named after Sir John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough. It is now a museum dedicated to the history of both Minorca and Europe in the 18th century. Be sure to stroll around its moat and to take in views of the historic areas of Mahón harbour.

Also located on the south shore of the harbour mouth is St Philip’s Castle, originally built by the Spanish in the 16th century as a defence against the Turks. With the British occupation its exterior was reinforced. A striking feature of this castle is the network of underground galleries, a veritable labyrinth of passageways which was used as a shelter by both the British and Spanish during times of enemy attack.

Hard by St Philip’s Castle is the municipality of Es Castell, which was founded by the British in 1771 and originally named Georgetown. It was built to an orthogonal ground plan and its standout feature is the Esplanade, which now houses the town hall. When the island was returned to the Spanish, it was renamed Villacarlos, in honour of Charles III.

Lastly,  situated in Mahón harbour is Isla del Rey, also known as Bloody Island, as it was there that King Alfonso III landed in 1287 on his way to reconquer Minorca from the Moors. Apart from vestiges of an early-Christian church, there are remains of a military hospital built by the British.

El Camí d’en Kane (Kane’s Walk). Sir Richard Kane was lieutenant-governor of Minorca during the first two periods of British occupation. One of the many infrastructure works he committed was a road linking Mahón to Ciutadella, of which the only surviving stretch runs from Mahón to Es Mercadal. It is well worth travelling, preferably by bicycle, as it is ideal for enjoying the island’s scenic interior. At some stage along the route you will come across an obelisk commemorating the endeavours of Sir Richard Kane.

Watchtowers. Still standing are numerous watchtowers built by the British as lookouts to alert to enemy incursions. The largest of them is the Fornells Tower, but you will find many more around the island’s perimeter – Torre des Castellar (Ciutadella), Torre de Sa Mesquida and Torre Cala Molí (Mercadal), among others.

Our last recommendation when retracing the British presence on the island consists of two colonial houses which now offer accommodation – Hotel Son Granot, built in 1712, with magnificent views of Mahón harbour, and Hostal El Almirante, dating from 1809, located in Es Castell.

While roaming from cove to cove across the island, be sure to also seek out Minorca’s past – book your Vueling here!

 

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by jorapa , Fundació Destí Menorca

 

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Nooks of Napoli

Musical journalist Bruno Sokolowicz decided to leave behind his hectic work life for a few years to embark upon a long journey leisurely exploring the most out of the way corners of the world. His plan: to slow down, turn off the auto-pilot and learn to look at the world around him again – to live every experience as if it was the first time again. First stop: Naples.

Napoli is a fascinating city. Unique. With great character. It is THE city of southern Italy. A historical marvel, architectural wonder, artistic beauty, gastronomic delight and geological impressive. Its inhabitants are as hot-blooded as the lava from Mount Vesuvius, the volcano that looms over the city, always in the background. There is an endless list of historical buildings, castles, palaces and churches to visit in Naples: Castel dell’Ovo, Palazzo Reale, the iglesia del Gesù Nuovo and the Capella Sansevero where one of the most special statues from the history of sculpture can be found – the Veiled Christ by Giuseppe di San Martino

On this tour, we will explore the streets of this Mediterranean city and its surrounding area in search of some unique sites.
Pizza Da Michele

The world’s first pizza parlour, opened in 1870. Even today, with thousands of pizza parlours all around the planet, it continues to be one of the best and, of course, the most authentic. They only offer the two classic varieties from the city: Margarita (normal or double cheese) and Marinara. Less is more!

It was here that the pizza legend began and the most popular version comes from Naples: the Margarita. Three colours like the Italian flag: white for the mozzarela di buffala, red for the home-made tomato sauce and green for the fresh basil.

For those interested in more “pizzeril” gastronomy tourism, there are a couple of appealing alternatives to a Da Michele (always full of both locals and tourists long before Julia Roberts scoffed her pizza in “Eat, Pray, Love”): Gino Sorbillo, the inventor of the calzone, wide variety of pizzas. Quality.
Di Matteo, spectacular Marinara (no mozzarela, but with a decent portion of garlic).

Galleria Umberto I

A shopping precinct with some serious architectural touches from the end of the 19th Century. Built at the same time as the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the architect Emanuele Rocco was inspired by the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. Tall, imposing, something interesting wherever you look. From the mosaics on the floor to the glass and metal domed ceiling. For talking a walk indoors around the Naples of 120 years ago.

Mergellina Fishing Port

Strolling along the shores of Naples, leaving Mount Vesuvius behind us, we reach the old fishing village of Mergellina. Today, it is a district of the city with its own character where locals relax in the sun, especially at weekends. One sunny Sunday morning, no matter if it’s in the middle of winter, the fishing port of Mergellina fills with walkers, roller-skaters, cyclists and people gathering for chat. People seeking to enjoy the more Mediterranean side of the city. An excellent place to buy live fish directly from the fishermen on the boats or on the beach. Or even to eat that fish in one of the many beach bars that dot the promenade.

Posillipo

Fancy wandering around the most beautiful houses in Naples? Take a photo of the bay from where you can see the whole city, the sea and Mount Vesuvius in the background? Go to a park and take in the Mediterranean breeze? Take a break from the fast pace of the city and recharge your batteries? If you answered ‘yes’ to any of these questions, then you can’t leave Naples without visiting the residential Posillipo district, where the smart, rich people live. But don’t worry, you won’t spend much money there because there are hardly any bars or shops to be found. Just lovely tree-lined streets, views of the sea, gorgeous houses, parks and lookout points. Basically, a wealth of peace and beauty to be enjoyed free of charge. Check it out!

Solfatara de Pozzuoli

Two thousand years ago, Mount Vesuvius was one single volcano. With the violent eruption of 24 August of 79 AD, which buried the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum (also recommended visits), a crater was formed that created a volcano with two peaks: Vesuvius and Solfatara. Solfatara is like a snub-nosed volcano with vents that stink of rotten eggs. That is the smell of sulphur, which was once associated with hell and the devil, and that some believe today increases libido, strengthens sex lives and enhances reproduction when inhaling the fumes. Just in case it’s true or even if you only get the placebo effect from visiting Solfatara de Pozzuoli, it has to be included as another place of interest in the Gulf of Naples.

By Bruno Sokolowicz from scannerFM

Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!

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