Theatre at its Best, Set in the Streets of Old Bucharest
B-FIT in the streetor D’ale Bucureştilor, is held in the streets of Bucharest’s old city from late May to early June each year. This admission-free festival features a host of events, including theatre stagings, open-air cinema, music performances and parades, attended by thousands of festival-goers. No other place is so evocative for enjoying the folk music and medieval traditions of the B-Fit festival as the narrow backstreets of the area. So, now that we find ourselves in the picturesque historic centre of the Romanian capital, let’s wander through the area to soak up its charm.
A City with a Parisian Air
Bucharest was once known as the “little Paris of the East” for its French influences, still noticeable in its wide avenues and, like the French capital, a striking triumphal arch at the entrance to Kisseleff Avenue. This grand avenue was the megalomaniacal dream of Ceauşescu, who wanted to better the Champs Elysées by making it a few metres longer than the original model. Under his rule, a large part of the city centre was demolished to make way for ugly Communist-era buildings.
Piața Unirii (Unification Square), one of the largest in the city, is also reminiscent of the grand squares of Paris. It is intersected by Unirii Boulevard, which marks the divide between old and new Bucharest, affording comparative views of the contrast between the two.
Lipscani – A Historical, Lively District
North ofUniriisquare,after crossing the Dâmboviţa river canal, lies Lipscani, the centrul vechi (historic centre) of Bucharest. This is one of the most interesting areas as, fortunately, it managed to elude Ceauşescu city plans. It is a lively quarter, packed with bars, restaurants and modern pubs throbbing with activity.
Also fronting Unirii Square is Manuc's Inn (Hanul lui Manuc),a centuries-old inn architecturally way ahead of its time. Its magnificent inner court, which was once a staging area for the throngs of carriages that plied across Europe in the mid-19th century, now accommodates charming terrace cafés.
Well worth visiting is the Curtea Veche archaeological excavation which houses the residence commissioned by the 15th-century ruler, Vlad III Dracula or Vlad Țepeș the Impaler, the Transylvanian nobleman whose legend was immortalised in the novel, “Dracula”, by Bram Stoker. A visit of Curtea Veche might include venturing into some of its underground halls, browsing through its museum and taking vampirish shots of Vlad’s bust.
Prominent among the jewels of religious architecture in Lipscani is the priceless Stavropoleos Orthodox church, built in response to the call of numerous Greek merchants resident in Bucharest for a place of worship.
Eating at Historical Restaurants and Modern Terrace Cafés
The above Orthodox church is usually stumbled on by tourists heading to the restaurant known as Caru' cu bere (Beer Cart), a veritable institution in the city. It is housed in a neo-Gothic building listed as a historic monument, and its interior boasts numerous art nouveau adornments. Although it includes a terrace, we recommend eating indoors to admire the murals, mosaics and stained-glass windows, and soak up part of the history that has played out between its walls. Since it was first opened in 1899, it has been a meeting place for Romanian artists and writers.
Cafeneaua Veche (Old Café), on Covaci Street, is another venue you must see. It is Bucharest’s oldest café, dating from 1812, and is a heritage site listed by UNESCO. Later on you could spend some time listening to music in one of the many lively pubs along Covaci Street, notably the 1974 or the Underworld.
Another traditional restaurant in the old city is Crama Domnaesca, on Strada Selari. This is the perfect place for splashing out on a fully-fledged banquet, to try the main dishes in Romanian cuisine in a setting with medieval décor. Price is no object, as they are generally laughable in comparison to restaurants in other European countries.
What are you waiting for to hit Bucharest? Check out our trips here.
Text by Scanner FM
Images by Jordi Joan Fabrega, Richard Mortel, fusion-of-horizons
more infoRome On Celluloid
The Eternal City is also a city of celluloid. From Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn’s Vespa ride, to Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni’s dip in the Fontana di Trevi, Rome has been the backdrop of some of the most iconic sequences in cinema history. We embark on a celluloid tour of the capital of Italy while recalling the best movies that featured Rome as one of their protagonists.
To Rome With Love (Woody Allen, 2012)
Woody Allen stands out as one of the filmmakers who has most successfully captured the essence of New York. However, in recent years, the indispensable American director went on a pilgrimage that led him to film in London, Barcelona, Paris and Rome. One of the most outstanding movies from his European tour, To Rome With Love, revolves around Monti, a district of Rome which shook off its unsavoury past and became one of the liveliest areas in the city. The film also captures the beauty of other spots, notably the Via dei Neofiti, the Piazza della Madonna dei Monti and the popular Bottega del Caffè.
Bicycle Thieves (Vittorio de Sica, 1948)
A masterpiece of Italian Neorealism, a style which in the first half of the 20th century yielded some of the milestones in cinema history through its stark portrayal of mundane, everyday life. Lamberto Maggiorani, an unemployed construction worker and untrained newcomer to acting, breathes life into the character of Antonio Ricci, who has his bicycle stolen during his first day’s work posting advertising bills. While chasing the thief, Lamberto runs through the popular quarters of Trastevere and Porta Portese.
La Dolce Vita (Federico Fellini, 1960)
One of Federico Fellini’s heights of creativity and one of the most accurate cinema depictions of Rome’s character – particularly as it was in the 1950s, with its post-war mixture of glamour and humdrum genre life. Marcello Mastroianni stars as Marcello Rubini, a gossip magazine journalist who follows the great film star Sylvia wherever she goes (especially on her night outings), the role played by a mesmerising Anita Ekberg. Although such landmarks as the Piazza del Popolo, Via Veneto and Piazza Barberini feature in La Dolce Vita, the movie will always be remembered for the scene at the Fontana di Trevi.
The Great Beauty (Paolo Sorrentino, 2013)
Awarded the Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film in 2014, Paolo Sorrentino’s The Great Beauty is the 21st century’s La Dolce Vita. Enveloped in a fascinating surrealistic aura, seldom has Rome glittered so exuberantly on celluloid. You simple cannot help falling for Rome as seen through the gaze of Sorrentino as it settles on the Piazza Navona, Baths of Caracalla, Villa Medici, Palazzo Colonna, the Colosseum, Gianicolo, the Tempietto di Bramante and the Orange Garden.
Night On Earth (Jim Jarmusch, 1991)
Roberto Benigni plays an eccentric cabbie, the main star of the Rome vignette of Jim Jarmusch’s Night On Earth.This is a collection of five vignettes with stories set in Los Angeles, New York, Paris, Helsinki and Rome. In the episode set against the backdrop of the Eternal City, Benigni picks up a priest in the early hours and drives him through some of the best known settings in the city, notably the Colosseum, while making a hilarious confession of his sex life.
Rome, Open City (Roberto Rossellini, 1945)
Another essential film of mid-20th-century Italian Neorealism. Inspired by the true story of the priest, Giuseppe Morosini, who was tortured and murdered by the Nazis for having helped the partisans. Filmed in the district of Prenestina the same year World War II ended, Rome, Open City lays bare the physical and moral wounds left by the conflict on the streets of the Eternal City and in the spirit of its people. And, amid so much suffering, a masterful Anna Magnani.
Dear Diary (Nanni Moretti, 1993)
With Dear Diary, this Trans Alpine Woody Allen executed one of his most widely acclaimed films. A semi-autobiographical comedy in the guise of a documentary, it recalls the director’s experiences in three chapters – On My Vespa, Islands and Doctors.In the first of these, Moretti rides his scooter through Rome’s everyday settings in August, providing a different take on the Italian capital. One unforgettable moment shows Moretti dancing with his running Vespa.
Roman Holiday (William Wyler, 1953)
However, the prize for iconic scooter tours of Rome goes to Roman Holiday, starring Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn. It marks a sublime moment in the history of cinema, particularly the scene on the Spanish Steps or the sequence shot at the Bocca della Verità. The winner of three Oscars, this movie marked Rome’s ascendency as a city of cinema.
Book your Vueling to Rome here and let yourself be bewitched by this celluloid city.
Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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Divine beauty from Van Gogh to Chagall and Fontana
Set in the heart of Florence, inside one of the greatest masterpieces of Florentine Renaissance architecture, the Fondazione offers a rich and varied programme throughout the year, consisting of high quality, world-class exhibitions ranging from Classical art and the Renaissance to the modern era and to contemporary art.
But in addition to its exhibitions, Palazzo Strozzi is a lively venue for numerous other events such as concerts, performances, contemporary art installations, theatrical performances, activities and guided tours for adults and families. Open throughout the year, it also boasts an elegant café and a quality museum shop.
From 24 September 2015 to 24 January 2016 Palazzo Strozzi will be hosting Divine Beauty from Van Gogh to Chagall and Fontana, an outstanding exhibition that sets out to explore the relationship between art and the sacred from the mid-19th to the mid-20th century, showcasing over one hundred works by such celebrated Italian artists as Domenico Morelli, Gaetano Previati, Felice Casorati, Gino Severini, Renato Guttuso, Lucio Fontana and Emilio Vedova, alongside such international masters as Vincent van Gogh, Jean-François Millet, Edvard Munch, Pablo Picasso, Max Ernst, Georges Rouault and Henri Matisse.
The exhibition offers visitors a unique opportunity to compare and contrast a selection of works of art which, while extremely famous, are observed here in a new and very different light. The show's star exhibits include such masterpieces as Jean-François Millet's Angelus on exceptional loan from the Musée d'Orsay in Paris, Vincent van Gogh's Pietà from the Vatican Museums, Renato Guttuso's Crucifixion from the collections of the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna in Rome and Marc Chagall's White Crucifixion from the Art Institute Museum in Chicago.
The exhibition is open from 10.00 to 20.00 daily, with late opening until 23.00 on Thursdays.
Admission costs €10, with concessions for children aged 7 to 18 at €4, free admission for children up to age 6, and a special family ticket for €20.
Tours are by appointment only and are designed for groups of adults, individuals visitors and schools. The programme also includes a wealth of activities and a special "Family Kit".
Starting 1 November 2015, you can visitDivine Beauty, the new Opera del Duomo Museum and the Baptistry of San Giovanni on a special joint ticket allowing you to explore the fantastic history of Florence and its art from the Middle Ages to the present day.
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Christmas Escape To Málaga
The city of Málaga is a great choice for spending a delightful Christmas break, far from the crowds and crowding of the big capitals but with an equally broad gamut of cultural, culinary and leisure offerings to get the most out of these holidays. Here, then, are the keys to spending a wonderful Christmas vacation in a welcoming city which winter seems to have bypassed.
A Storied History
Málaga is one of the oldest cities in Europe. Founded by the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC, you will come across monuments attesting to the various civilisations that were drawn by its strategic location and settled there. Witness the Roman Theatre, from the times of Augustus, Gibralfaro Castle, built in a former Phoenician precinct, the hillside Alcazaba, located at the foot of the castle and dating from the Moorish period, and the Jewish Quarter, situated in the Old Town between Calle San Agustín and Calle Alcazabilla. Your itinerary through the city’s past should also take in a visit to Málaga Cathedral, a jewel of the Andalusian Renaissance known locally as “La Manquita” (the Little One-Armed), as one of the towers on the facade was left unfinished.
Museums Galore
Another major draw in Málaga is its plethora of museums, the list including such illustrious venues as the Picasso Museum, the Carmen Thyssen Museum, the Málaga Contemporary Art Centre (CAC Málaga) and the newly opened Centre Pompidou and Russian Museum of Málaga.
Come to think of it, the list continues to grow as only a few days ago the long awaited Museum of Málaga was opened to the public. Among the star exhibits of this, the fifth largest art gallery in Spain, is The Judgement of Paris, by Peter Paul Rubens.
Fine Cuisine
Make a point of tasting Málaga’s local cuisine, from simple but wholesome cooking to splashing out at one of the city’s latest Michelin-starred restaurants. Needless to say, you should treat yourself to the fried fish dish known as pescaíto frito, a delicacy here, in addition to espeto, as in Málaga sardines are traditionally eaten skewered (espetadas) on a reed – a real pleasure on the palate. And, be sure to make room for the city’s traditional Christmas confectionery, such as borrachuelos, patties filled with “angel-hair” pumpkin strands, which is truly delicious.
And… A Shopping Spree
At this time of year you’re bound to go shopping on the most popular and crowded street in Málaga, Calle Larios, the city’s commercial thoroughfare and inevitable destination for anyone doing some serious shopping. Other arteries to consider on your shopping route in the surrounding area are the Guadalmedina riverbank and the Carretería, Álamos and Alcazabilla streets.
Book your Vueling to Málaga here and get into luxury Christmas gear in this splendid city.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Bob Sponge
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