A Coruña’s Top Restaurants
Yet another year has passed and Galician cuisine is still on the ascendancy, having earned recognition in the Michelin Guide, one of the most prestigious and demanding in the world. Twelve restaurants in Galicia have earned that distinction, a tribute to their culinary talent. But, we’re going to focus on three of them, which happen to be in A Coruña. We’ll talk about the rest another time. Some overlook the sea; others, the green countryside. Some are inspired by cutting-edge trends; others, by tradition. All of them however, have a unique flavour – a markedly genuine, Galician flavour.
Alborada
(Paseo marítimo Alcalde Francisco Vázquez, 25. 15002 A Coruña)
Chef: Iván Domínguez
This restaurant is located on the seaside promenade skirting A Coruña, halfway between the Tower of Hercules and the Castle of San Antón. It is done out in modern, elegant fashion, with two dining-rooms overlooking the Atlantic, and a third, more secluded, private one. The decor is a blend of fine woods, cork and ironwork, as befits the luminosity of the spacious interior.
The fare on offer at Alborada is based on local Galician produce, particularly fish and seafood, prepared using current techniques. This is haute cuisine, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2010. The menu always features the day’s fish and seafood, accompanied by tasty vegetables in season. Lobster, crayfish, scallop, sea bass, hake, sole… the star is the sea. There are two menus of the day – the “classical” menu, featuring dishes that chart the restaurant’s evolution, and the “tasting menu” spotlighting the chef’s latest, most surprising creations. To round off the experience, Alborada also offers a wine list with over 600 items.
Árbore da Veira
(San Andrés, 109 bajo. 15003 A Coruña)
Chef: Luis Veira
Árbore da Veira is just a few paces from the water’s edge, so ideally you should let yourself be enveloped in the sea breeze. The ambience is warm, relaxing and spacious. There are few tables, light wood finish and furniture inspired by Nordic design. The tables are sans tablecloths and the crockery is stunning, with unique, handmade pieces. This is a happy world. Their chef, Luis Veira, takes you on an alluring culinary adventure. Drawing on the most innovative techniques, the gastronomic experience is designed for the pleasure of the senses. Veira’s motto is to forge ahead, and to integrate new techniques and produce, particularly if it comes from the sea. The result is an array of splendid, signature-cuisine dishes, albeit grounded in the Galician tradition.
A word of advice: here there is no à la carte, but a dynamic offering of two new and attractive menus of the day – “Raíces” (Roots), which includes 8 snacks, 10 main dishes and 8 desserts, and “Árbore”, made up of 8 snacks, 15 main dishes and 8 desserts. Quite a mouthful! In the end, you’re looking at some 30 culinary creations to be consumed in one session. And, the produce is in season, especially from the sea (6 of the dishes are based on seafood) and estuaries of Galicia – oysters, crayfish, scallop, periwinkles and codfish offal. As an alternative, the chef likes to offer the odd meat dish, with Galician beef and porco celta (Celtic pork ham) being his mainstays. The dishes – or “mouthfuls”, as Luis tends to call them – vary in terms of the market and his inspiration. When it comes to the wine list, Árbore adheres to the same approach – around 250 items which include 30 DOs (designation of origin), both Spanish and international, although Galician wines are dominant. The selection, renewed every three months, is impeccable and designed to combine with the chef’s stunning dishes. There are two matches proposed – in the mouth with 8 wines and on the palate with 12.
A Estación
(Estrada da Estación, 51. 15660 Cambre, A Coruña)
Chefs: Beatriz Sotelo and Xoán Crujeiras
This restaurant lies 15 km from the centre of A Coruña and is striking for its siting, as it occupies the canteen and storeroom of an erstwhile train station. We found the refurbished interior captivating, particularly for its lighting. During the day, the dining-room is bright and lively, with glazed fronting on both sides, as in the old train coaches. By night, the salon turns intimate and elegant, with small points of light evocative of the dinner atmosphere on the Orient Express.
The master-chef tandem base their approach on a combination of technique and creativity, passion and delicacy, sea and mountain. They also share a preference for sourcing local produce, but with a view to the future. The dishes at A Estación point to a harmony of culinary experience, knowledge and recollections. The menu features dishes for snacking and sharing, with starters, fish and meat in season, and tastings that may optionally match wines and are renewed each month. Produce here is always in season, traditional, organic, proximity produce sourced from local cooperatives or small producers.
A Coruña offers a host of incentives to captivate you and one of them is their cuisine. Come and taste the creations of their leading chefs. Check out our flights here.
Text by Turismo A Coruña
Images by Alborada, Árbore da Veira
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Stockholm in 6 Culinary Styles
Without even having to leave the city, you can get a good idea of the culinary gems that attest to the potential of Nordic cuisine. In Stockholm, excellent avant-garde cuisine weds “bistronomies” and gastrobars with oodles of character. Depending on the style you’re after and how much you want to spend, here are six culinary lines in Stockholm which bear out the city’s gastronomic vigour.
Gastrologik Avant-garde
The moment you take a seat, you will find a menu waiting for you on the table. But, instead of a list of dishes, this is a statement of intent and attention, in a restaurant that takes care of the finest details. Avant-garde cuisine in a succession of bites strictly in season, asserting the wealth of local produce, pampered from source by the chef duo of Jacob Holmstrom and Anton Bjuhr. Algae, indigenous fish and alluring natural rarities are the highlights of a unique gastronomic experience.
Ekstedt Authenticity
Warmed by hot coals, the restaurant run by the popular Niklas Ekstedt has made its mark by creating a highly personal culinary line which the chef rounds off a few metres away in the guise of another, more “casual” business. Brilliant cuisine over the fire, in dishes which take shape before the diner’s eyes. I can highly recommend going for the room’s imperial table, even if you have to share it. Watch your bread being baked and brought warm to the table; be spellbound by the flames in surprising, ongoing flambé surges, as with the oyster flambé; savour the singularities of Swedish produce, rigorously executed and served up with gusto… All this is Ekstedt – a genuine yet unusual restaurant.
The Plenitude of Lilla Ego
The queues at the entrance to Lilla Ego before each sitting are a constant feature. Here, the emphasis is on the informal offerings based on sturdy market fare. Dessert helpings are a tad oversize and dishes are presented rather haphazardly, while the extensive wine list and pairings are bold. You can watch them cooking from the bar counter, as well as observe the various steps involved in preparing dishes, something outside the scope of the table diners. A feature of this venue is the upbeat atmosphere, both at lunch and dinner.
The Warmth of Babette
You don’t need to be invited to see the kitchen for, as soon as you step inside, it is the first thing you see and almost stumble over, as well as hands-on chefs who frantically ply their wares. Pizzas, salads and sautés based on fresh produce are the standout traits of the dishes in this venue, where you will feel at home among the books and various seating arrangements. As in all restaurants, it is best to book in advance to secure your place on the terrace. It opens every day of the week, which is unusual in this city’s hospitality sector.
The Freshness of Kaffeverket
There are so many cafés in Stockholm that you would be hard put to choose just one – or even two or three. But Kaffeverket has that enveloping atmosphere which ends up cajoling you into whiling away the hours there. Even locals recommend it. Offerings in the spacious interior, which looks onto an inner patio, with high tables and stools – and low ones, too – include one-course meals, sandwiches and top-notch homemade pastries, with options for vegans and celiacs, too. The friendliness of their staff is another point in their favour.
Where to Sleep, Breakfast and Vice Versa – Miss Clara
This boutique hotel is ideal for staying at a place with endless sky views, but also for having breakfast in the purest Swedish style, just a stone’s throw away from the shopping hub. If you have time on your hands and you fancy it, you can opt for a brunch, with cocktails and DJ music or jazz, or else sip a drink on their large pavement terrace in the heart of the city.
Still intact in this erstwhile convent are the Art Deco foundations, which blend in with an elegant and equally cosy interior design.
HTL Upplandsgatan
It is ultramodern and highly functional. With its designer hostel appearance and B&B down-to-earthness, you will appreciate the splendid location of this hotel in the city’s major shopping district, as well as its price and more than adequate breakfast buffet.
Book your Vueling to Stockholm and discover their gastronomic variety.
By Belén Parra of Gastronomistas.com
more info7 Formentera Restaurants To Delight In
Formentera is known to be pricey. But, while the bill may be steep in some restaurants, it can also be really affordable in others which are well worth the visit. Following is our varied selection after a visit to the island – sea-facing, in the island’s hinterland, in a hotel… Which one would you pick?
Casbah
I stayed at the Casbah, a quaint three-star hotel of small huts scattered about a pine forest just five minutes from Migjorn Beach. The restaurant serves traditional cuisine using cutting-edge techniques. It is inexpensive and there are some outstanding dishes, like the octopus croquettes, served with black-olive mayonnaise, the very tender grilled octopus and fish of the day. The meat dishes are tasty, while soupy lobster rice is one of the standouts. The average price is 40 euros per head, while there is also a tasting menu of six dishes and dessert for 60 euros, without drinks, and 80 with a pairing. They open from March to December.
Caminito
A benchmark on the island for its seniority (36 years) and the quality of its Argentine, American and Australian meat. Hence, this Argentinian venue is a catwalk of stars (Medem, Ramazzotti, Mariscal, Custo, Iniesta, Messi, Buenafuente, Dalma, Guardiola…) yearning for South American and Mediterranean dishes, like the delicate prawn cannelloni and simmered egg with potato, codfish and spring garlic sauce. The indoor swimming pool is an eye-opener, with several dinner tables set around it. Open from May to October. The average price is 50 euros.
Fonda Platé
In Sant Francesc Xavier, an inland village, you will find Fonda Platé, a popular watering hole where you can just as well go for a barrido –an assortment of breakfast, lunch, simple burger-type dinner dishes and salads – or a fregao (cocktails, music…). The terrace with its grapevine pergola is enchanting and the interior gives off a well-worn air reminiscent of the period when the tavern first opened. In the nineteen eighties, the current owners swapped their yacht for this establishment. Average price: 20–25 euros.
Sol Post
As its name suggest, Sol Post, in the Hotel Cala Saona, is one of the most picturesque spots to watch the sun setting. Lunch ushers in traditional Balearic cuisine – take note of the steamed mussels and their rices, like the unbeatable fish and seafood Paella del Senyoret, both reasonably priced. At dinner they serve up more modern, Mediterranean cuisine. Open from May to October, the average price is 30-35 euros for lunch, and 45 euros for dinner (with two tasting menus without drinks for 32 and 58).
Es Jardí des Marès
All in fine taste, sober and elegant, at the Hotel Marès (Sant Francesc Xavier), replete with art exhibits which lead into the restaurant, featuring elaborate, innovative dishes based on quality produce all sourced locally in Formentera. The terrace, once the garden of the neighbouring convent, is the setting for tasting playful, entertaining and modern dishes like colt carpaccio, the revamped country salad, sea bass with wild asparagus and kalamata olives and sweet potato crisps… Average price from 35 to 40 euros, while the tasting menu of five dishes and dessert, without drinks, costs 50.
Es Caló
Another Formentera benchmark. Traditional island cuisine (country salad, fish stew, rices, fried lobster with egg…). The excellent produce is served on several terraces – one of them a chill-out – with marvellous views of the turquoise blue sea and the green La Mola mountain. The lobster is fried with potatoes and green peppers; when the customer has finished ladling the food, the remaining pan oil is used to fry up some eggs. Open from Holy Week to the end of October; average price from 35 to 40 euros.
Sa Sequi
Ideal for enjoying a sunset with views of neighbouring Ibiza. At Sa Sequi, you can have a drink and small, cold or hot dishes in the chill-out, or full dishes on the restaurant terrace. There, the staple is fresh fish at more restrained prices than in the adjacent area of Ses Illetes. Open from May to November. Average price, 50 euros.
Text and photos by Ferran Imedio of Gastronomistas.com
more infoMálaga in 7 Bites
Málaga has become the hot capital of culture, due to the recent opening of local branches of the Centre Pompidou and Saint Petersburg State Russian Museum Collection, added to other art successes with the Carmen Thyssen Museum, La Térmica, the Contemporary Art Centre (CAC) and the Picasso Museum (a fine retrospective of Louise Bourgeois is currently running until 27 September). The city centre’s beautiful pedestrian precinct – distributed around the stately Marqués de Larios street as its hub – it’s pleasant climate all year around, its beaches and its gastronomy make it the ideal getaway destination. Here are 7 essential eateries you should not miss in Málaga.
1. El Pimpi
You can’t leave Málaga without stopping off at this emblematic bar with its eminently Andalusian patios filled with potted carnations. One of its draws is the casks autographed by the most variegated celebrities who have dined there, from Antonio Gala to Miquel Barceló and Pablo Alborán. It has a huge terrace, too. The food is very good and prices average about €30.
2. Los Baños del Carmen
This former spa opposite the beach, once a luxury baths and now decadent, preserves a charm of its own. Refurbished as a restaurant boasting an enormous terrace with a stately air, this is the ideal spot for soaking up the twilight hours. The menu du jour costs €18 and the à la carte is very Malagueñan: tapas de la bahía (from the bay), fish on a skewer, charcoaled meat… and concerts are usually held on weekend afternoons.
3. Mercado Atarazanas (Atarazanas, 10)
This lovely market with wrought-iron ceilings, colourful stained glass and a marble, Mudéjar entrance features several stalls that sell their tapas on the street, with tall tables for eating standing up. Dogfish, octopus, razor clams, prawns, venus shells, Malagueñan mixed fry… fittingly all very fresh and at excellent prices (averaging €3.5 for a half-portion). Ideal for having an aperitif.
4. Andrés Maricuchi
El Pedregalejo beach offers one of Málaga’s most prized specialities – espetos or skewered fish, particularly the sardine variety. They are charcoaled on cute barbecue boats set in the sand. Prominent among the many beach bars with a carefree, happy ambience is the Maricuchi. Instead of a menu, they recite their dishes to you. Their sardines are crisp on the outside and tasty on the inside. Around €20.
5. Montana
If you are seeking a more curated cuisine in romantic surroundings, this town palace has a gastronomic restaurant upstairs and a tapas bar below, set in a gardened terrace. Some of the recommendations: scrambled egg with whitebait and peppers in yuzu sauce, ox carpaccio with olive oil ice-cream and wasabi cheese, and timbal (tartlet) with griddled bacon, field mushrooms, foie gras and balsamic reduction. Classicism and modernity in one. Average price – €45.
6. José Carlos García Restaurante
Haute cuisine for gourmets. The chef, Carlos García, was awarded the province’s first Michelin star for creative cuisine in his Café París restaurant. They recently opened another, more distinguished, upmarket restaurant in the harbour. It comprises an intimate dining area with just six tables, a kitchen enclosed in a cube in full view of diners, a priceless terrace and an events room. Tasting menu – €110.
7. KGB
The more daring foodies should head for Kisco García Bar, a trove of world cuisine. One of their hits is pure Asian and Andalusian fusion – the Vietnamese nam de pringá (€4). They also give a nod to Russia with their vodka omelette, and to other parts of the world, as with their Peking Express bread. They also feature an array of thoroughly southern dishes, like the Ángel León-style shrimp omelette. A curiosity – the premises once housed Dani García’s gastrobar and, as a lot of the latter’s guests still came to order their excellent ox-tail hamburger, the dish has been incorporated into the menu of the bar opposite, belonging to the same owner as KGB – Wendy Gambas.
Málaga seems to have just everything. A good climate, excellent museums and endless culinary delights to wit. Come and live it out for yourself. Check out our flights here.
Text by Isabel Loscertales (Gastronomistas)
Photos by Isabel Loscertales, Montana, José Carlos García Restaurante
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