Back To The Past
Dornbirn is a town in the administrative district of the same name, located in the federal state of Vorarlberg in Austria. it lies south of Bregenz, near the borders of Switzerland, Germany and Liechtenstein. The Dornbirner Ach river flows through the town before draining into Lake Constance. Dornbirn is the largest town in Vorarlberg and an important hub of trade. It is the regional site of ORF (the Austrian Radio and Television Service), the Fachhochschule (Vorarlberg University of Applied Sciences) and other institutions. The town was a major centre of the textile industry until its decline in the 1980s.
The Martinimarkt (St Martin’s Market) of Dornbirn is one of the leading markets in Austria. Participants include exhibitors, schools, clubs and restaurants from all over the district. The hallmark of this market is its pronounced nostalgic character, as everyone dresses up in costumes from the early 19th century. This year’s theme is “sharing” as legend has it that St Martin shared his cloak with a beggar. This has prompted merchants to offer visitors their regional or homemade wares. Schools and clubs make special offers on that day, too, and workshops are held to show how hand-made or recycled products are crafted. As in previous years, the Martinimarkt is held in the town centre, which turns into a huge stage hosting a mass tableau vivant.
Market Day
The day starts early. At 8.45 a.m. everyone converges around the clock tower, adjoining the market square, where free coffee is served. This is the gesture by which the merchants welcome their visitors. At 10 o’clock, the mayor, attired in period costume, presides over the official opening ceremony by delivering a speech from the Red House staircase.
Afterwards, to get into the swing of things, you either wander around the street stalls or stand and watch people filing past. It is like going back in time to a period in which the word “motor” meant as little as “iPhone 7”. Here, you can find anything – and try everything, too! When it comes to cuisine, pride of place is given to traditional local cooking: coffee, käsfladen (flat bread and cheese typical of the region), noodle soup, apple fritters, potato balls, etc. The entertainment part includes a dance floor for participating in the local folk dances, with live music provided by a band, making for a setting seemingly having leaped out of a romantic novel, while children can have a whale of a time in the antique fairground. One of the most popular games here is the wheel of fortune, the proceeds of which are earmarked for charity.
Dinner and Overnight
After a day packed with emotions, your legs start feeling heavy as evening approaches. At this stage, the best thing is to get your strength back and have a hearty dinner. Here are some recommendations in the fascinating town of Dornbirn.
1. Rotes Haus
If you want to discover local cuisine in all its splendour, head for Rotes Haus. This restaurant is a classic. What’s more, it is located next to the market square, so you can’t get any closer than that. When we went there, we ordered a consommé with panqueque (a South American variation on the pancake) with grated local herbs, and a breaded beef escalope with parsley potatoes and cranberries – we loved this typical local dish!
2. Zum Verwalter
This is actually a boutique hotel gourmet-restaurant. The establishment is a lovely timber house which will wow enthusiasts of interior design, as all the rooms are done out in different décor. Each space is a story on its own. The gourmet restaurant is on the ground floor. It is certainly unique as far as local catering is concerned. The restaurant enjoys long-standing acclaim, thanks to its marked admix of traditional cuisine, striking a marked contrast with the young catering staff. They offer locally sourced market produce. Their meat is outstanding, while the roast beef is spectacular!
3. Pasta Fresca da Giovanni
This is clearly the best value-for-money option. Located on the Stadtstrasse, this restaurant is conveniently situated next to the main road going through the town. The interior is very relaxing as the decoration is sparse. We recommend you order the pasta of the house, as they make it themselves. The ravioli stuffed with plum and the cheese-fondue potatoes are unbeatable.
All aboard for your trip back in time… check out our flights.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Jerey Keith, Pasta Fresca da Giovanni, Zum Verwalter
more infoThe Venice Biennale Art on Steroids
Those who think cultural tourism is a 21st-century invention are well off course – Venice invented it long ago. Intent on setting the city under the international spotlight, the first International Art Exhibition ever was held there in 1895. That is, the Venice Biennale, which has continued until this day.
The undisputed artificer of the avant-garde art pulse – Documenta notwithstanding – the Biennale has run into its 57th edition without losing steam. Six months full-out, from 13 May to 26 November, during which the city is invaded by contemporary art, which takes over both land and sea. What with vaporetti, churches and palazzi, we visited the city of canals to soak up the latest trends, soon to descend on museums and art galleries across half the globe. Let the Grand Tour begin!
Survival Manual
A cautionary word to all navigators – moving through the Biennale is no mean feat. The key – comfortable footwear, strategically placed accommodation and solid planning. The offerings are boundless and the spaces, gargantuan.
The main facilities are located at the Arsenale and the Giardini di Castello. Those are the sites of the official exhibition, Viva Arte Viva, as well as many of the 85 national pavilions dotting the island. And, as if that weren’t enough, the list is augmented by countless top-notch parallel exhibitions and events that have staked out their territory in the city’s historic buildings.
My advice – keep calm and don’t get flustered. The marathon only comes around every two years. Set aside three days on your agenda and you won’t succumb in the attempt. Take up lodgings in the area of Il Castello, the Biennale’s hard core, thereby avoiding vaporetto tickets. And, have a notebook on you and a camera with fully charged batteries so you can review the sights once you’re back home.
In the Giardini – the Cream of the Crop
Separating the wheat from the chaff can be exhausting. By way of a warm-up, we headed south-east, to the confines of the city. Located there are the Giardini di Castello, Venice’s green lung par excellence and the preserve of the national pavilions (a somewhat archaic idea, a reminder that the current Biennale is an updated version of the classical trade fairs of yesteryear). The fact is that in Venice each state has its own building to showcase to the world the cream of the crop of its contemporary art production, by way of an Art Olympics where the winner manages to show the most muscle.
While the Biennale is all about art, it is in fact also about power and architecture. In terms of the latter, some pavilions shine with a light of their own. Not to be missed are the Finland pavilion, built in timber modules by the luminary, Alvar Aalto, the father of modern Scandinavian architecture; the Austrian pavilion, the work of Josef Hoffmann who, together with Gustav Klimt, founded the Vienna Secession, and that of The Netherlands, its open forms highlighting the minimalist elegance of 1950s neoplasticism.
But, let’s get back to art and to the most talked-about offerings. The Golden Lion for the Best Pavilion was awarded to Germany, where artist Anne Imhof installed a glass floor under which performances displaying the world “as a kennel” take place. France depicts a musical space and recording studio, Studio Venezia, an installation designed by Xavier Veilhan where musicians and artists from all over the world perform. And Austria draws all the camera flashes with a lorry standing on its nose by Erwin Wurm, a playful proposal in a pavilion redolent with sculptures which visitors can interact and have fun with.
The Off Programme
Side shows, parallel exhibitions, talks, dialogues, performances and film cycles – no body is built to withstand Venice. Indeed, the official programme is rivalled by a series of first-rate artistic proposals staged in churches, foundations and museums around the city. Here, then, are the juiciest offerings in the Off-Biennale 2017.
Damien Hirst has hit Venice with a two-fold proposal. At collector François Pinault’s art spaces, the Punta della Dogana and the Palazzo Grassi, he has installed his latest eccentricities,including an 18-metre-high sculpture which rises into the firmament. In keeping with the British artist we are familiar with, his show is pure spectacle, and the perfect excuse to visit two historic buildings overlooking the Grand Canal.
The tiny island of San Giorgio Maggiore surrenders unconditionally to Michelangelo Pistoletto. A key figure of Arte Povera and one of the most prominent Italian artists, Pistoletto presents One and One Makes Three, an exhibition housed in an abbey designed by Palladio where he showcases a selection of his works created between the 60s and the present, also featuring his popular “Venus of the Rags”.
We wind up our marathon tour at the Palazzo Fortuny, a Venetian Gothic gem which rises between the Rialto Bridge and St Mark’s Square. This former home and studio of painter Marià Fortuny houses both the artist’s collection and temporary exhibitions. This time around, it is the turn of Intuition, a collective display dedicated to the evocative power of art and featuring such great names as André Breton, Joan Miró, Vassily Kandinsky, Marina Abramovic and Anish Kapoor.
Thus far our review of the Biennale, a centennial event which reinvents itself each year and showcases art to suit all tastes, interests and theories. We’re off to the canals!
Book your Vueling to Venice here
Text by Núria Gurina
Photos by: Andrea Avezzù, Jean-Pierre Dalbéra, Francesco Galli, g.sighele, imagea.org, Erin Johnson
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Top 10 Pavilions at Expo Milano 2015
Expo Milano 2015 is in full swing, after more than seven years’ preparation. Going back over 160 years, this is one of the longest-standing international events. The central theme for this edition is Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life, covering the fields of technology, innovation, culture, traditions and creativity as related to food and diet. After touring the exhibition site for several days, we have drawn up a selection of the 10 best pavilions. This was no easy task, as this year there are over 145 participating countries.
10. Mexican Pavilion
The Mexican pavilion, designed by the Loguer Design firm, features an external structure in the shape of a large corn cob. The interior replicates to scale the agricultural irrigation system applied in the Mexican Basin during the reign of King Nezahualcóyotl, a veritable achievement in sustainability which involved harnessing the environment without degrading it.
9. Spanish Pavilion
Designed by the firm, B720 Fermín Vázquez Arquitectos. In an event of this order, which promotes healthy eating, the Mediterranean diet takes centre stage. The Spanish Pavilion combines the structure of a greenhouse with that of a traditional granary. On display in the latter is produce used in regional cuisine, as well as the processes involved in food growing and production.
8. Italian Pavilion
The Italian Pavilion, designed by Nemesi & Partners Srl, Proger SpA and BMS Progetti Srl, connects up with the various exhibition areas, the auditorium and the conference halls. The building is well worth visiting, the axes of which are fused with the structure itself. Here, too, the architecture is sustainable, based on evocative avenues and the use of new technologies.
7. China Pavilion
The undulating Chinese Pavilion was created by a consortium of Tsinghua University, the Beijing Qingshang Environmental & Architectural Design Institute, and the New York Studio Link-Arc team. Based on the theme, "Land of Hope, Food for Life", it showcases this huge nation’s progress in feeding its people through agriculture and distribution. The interior features a stunning field created by LEDs, simulating cultivation according to the Chinese lunisolar calendar.
6. Austrian Pavilion
This is actually a lush forest, located in the open air, enabling visitors to wander among the foliage and breathe fresh air. The leafy vegetation sets up a microclimate so that, although uncovered, the shade provided by the trees endows the structure with a temperature five degrees lower than the surrounding area. The forest generates enough oxygen for 1,800 visitors every hour.
5. Ecuador Pavilion
This is one of the most widely acclaimed projects among both the critics and the public at large, the work of the Spanish studio, Zorrozúa y Asociados. The theme, "Journey to the Center of Life", is implemented to perfection on the facade of the Ecuador Pavilion, as are others, such as the opportunities provided by the agricultural sector in terms of sustainable development, common welfare, the fight against hunger and feeding the world’s cultures and ethnic groups. A prominent feature are the curtains covering the whole building, the work of KriskaDECOR. This is the first time the whole surface of a pavilion has been clad with curtains.
4. German Pavilion
This pavilion is known as the “Fields of Ideas”. You can’t get more German than that, can you? Architectural devices have been used to reflect Germany’s rich, natural landscapes, including sinuous curves, a huge green canopy and enormous solar trees which produce energy using organic photovoltaic technology. We followed a route through the “sources of nutrition” – water, soil, climate and biodiversity – before arriving at the “Garden of Ideas”. The pavilion has numerous secluded spots for relaxing and taking in the landscapes and live music, DJ sessions and other shows.
3. Brazil Pavilion
Here, architecture and stage scenery are combined to provide visitors with an experience of Brazilian values. Implemented very successfully is the idea of a soft, decentralised, flexible network pervading the whole structure. According to its artificers, it stands for the country’s pluralism. Set in the middle of 130 other buildings, the Brazil Pavilion is a good place to take a breather – we took one – by way of a public square that attracts passers-by.
2. United Arab Emirates Pavilion
Designed by the iconic architectural studio, Foster + Partners, it features tall, undulating walls reflecting the UAE’s desert landscapes. This structure is built to provide a cool interior, as the 12-metre-high walls protect against the sun and set up shaded walkways for visitors. Strolling along them led us to the open-air exhibition areas, ending in a striking gold auditorium.
1. United Kingdom Pavilion
For us, the stand-out UK Pavilion is the most spectacular of them all for its originality and the way the theme has been implemented in actuality. Designed by the British artist, Wolfgang Buttress, it is strikingly reminiscent of a honeycomb. Visitors to the pavilion follow the path of a bee, winding their way through a field of flowers, to the heart of the bee hive. Sounds and visual signs are synchronised in real time to an actual bee-hive in the United Kingdom. The sounds emitted by the queen bee can be heard throughout the exhibition and the light provided by LEDs swells in response to an increase in the activity of the bees.
Don’t miss out on Milan. What better way to discover the present and future of many of the world’s nations than by visiting a Universal Exhibition? Come and check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Expo Milano 2015
more infoBerlin on Gallery Weekend from East to West
Berlin is synonymous with art. You don’t need to go much further to bump into someone who, after the fall of the Berlin Wall, has journeyed to the capital of Germany in search of an opportunity. With almost 450 galleries, 20,000 artists and over 3,000 exhibitions yearly, Berlin is experiencing an art boom. It heads the European art scene by a mile.
Gossip has it that over the last 20 years a new art gallery has been opened every week. Faced with that trend, no wonder that, over the last 12 years, Berlin’s galleries have joined forces to launch the Berlin Gallery Weekend (from 29 April to 1 May 2016) – the first of its kind – subsequently replicated in Paris, Vienna and Barcelona. We visited the city to see it for ourselves and spent three days packed with inaugurations, talks, parties and social events at special times to showcase the latest productions. This, just when spring is descending on the city and its streets start casting their gaze outwards.
Zero budget: admission to the galleries and other areas is free-of-charge.
Recommendation: hire a bicycle – distances become shorter when negotiated on two wheels. The city is big and the galleries string out from east to west, although centred mainly on Berlin Mitte, Kreuzberg and Potsdamer Straße. We began our tour – map in hand!
Berlin’s Epicentre – Auguststraße in Mitte
Auguststraße is lined with trendy restaurants and art galleries. This is the historic centre of Berlin; hence its name – Mitte, meaning middle. There we came across the KW Institute for Contemporary Art, a former margarine factory repurposed as an emerging art lab for mapping the latest trends. Right next door, the collector, Thomas Olbricht, presents his private collection, me Collectors Room, an area of 1,300m2 with exhibits ranging from works by Cindy Sherman to exotic objects worthy of a curio cabinet. Long-standing venues, including the widely acclaimed Eigen + Art, blend in with the newcomers, like Kicken Berlin and neugerriemschneider, and the elegant building of Sprüth Magers on Oranienburger Straße, bringing a breath of fresh air to the local scene.
One of the latest venues to burst in on the scene, which features the epitome of a fusion between art and gastronomy, is the Jüdische Mädchenschule (Jewish Girls’ School). Housed in this building – which reopened in 2012 after falling into disuse – is theMichael Fuchs Galerieand a number of restaurants which form a nexus between the past and present. Among these isThe Kosher Class Room,which offers traditional Sabbath dishes on the menu, andMogg Deli,the best place for indulging in a good pastrami sandwich.
Before leaving the centre and heading for Kreuzberg, we made a compulsory stop at Clärchens Ballhaus. Opened in 1913, this dance hall is a veritable Berlinese legend which survived two World Wars and numerous Nazi clampdowns. Young and old, tourists, locals, good and bad dancers – there is something infectious about Clärchens which makes you feel at home there!
Around Checkpoint Charlie
Near the Berlin Wall’s most famous checkpoint and also the Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) and halfway between Kreuzberg and Mitte, lies the Galerienhaus. This former Lufthansa headquarters which became a centre for political asylum-seekers in the nineties, houses 11 contemporary art galleries on its various levels. If you chance to go there, be sure to see the Gallerie Nordenhake, the Gallerie ŻAK | BRANICKA and the historic Konrad Fischer Gallery. Although initially founded in Düsseldorf, like so many other galleries in the Rhinelands, it ended up moving to the capital.
A few minutes away in the Mitte direction lies one of the trendiest venues in the area, the VeneKlasen/Werner Gallery, founded by the New Yorker, Michael Werner, who brought a piece of the Chelsea scene to Berlin, making it more spacious, more professional and… more expensive.
Before leaving Kreuzberg, we visited the Church of St Agnes which now houses the König Galerie. Built in the Brutalist style, it was acquired by Johann König and opened to the public as an art gallery in 2015. Here, in what appears to be the end of the white cube, a good itinerary is guaranteed.
Potsdamer Straße – A Trendy Art Boom
We came to Schöneberg, on the old west side, where for many years galleries and creative projects have been mushrooming, taking up every available square metre. The fact is it seems to be a surefire win-win formula – the venues are mutually beneficial in that their accretion and synched opening and inauguration times draw ever more visitors. Among the galleries you simply cannot pass up are the Supportico Lopez and Esther Schipper. However, if time is at a premium and you need to make a choice, head straight for the Isabella Bortolozzi Galerie. The Italian artist opened her gallery in 2008 in the former apartment where the actor and singer Hans Albers lived from 1946 to 1948. The premises have been preserved virtually intact. The walls are lined with wood panelling and secret recesses, which act as a backdrop.
Art galleries housed on a fifth floor without a lift in reclaimed buildings; exhibitions which can only be reached by crossing two patios and three doors… the list goes on and on. If you’re planning to visit the city within the prescribed timeframe, check out the full programme and our daily flights to Berlin. Happy Gallery Weekend!
Text by Núria Gurina for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Photos by Marco Funke, Genial23, Axel Schneider, Wolfgang Staudt
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