By Silvia Artaza from gastronomistas

We thought we’d fly to the Austrian capital to discover those routes that take us beyond the city’s glittering imperial and classical legacy, beyond St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and the giant ferris wheel in the Prater park. And to be sure, we found streets, neighbourhoods, and very modern projects un which all sorts of interestingly hip restaurants have sprung up, many of them quite wunderbar.

Naschmarkt and Freihausviertel

We began our tour in the Naschmarkt, the city’s best-known food market, which has become a meeting spot for all sorts of people. It’s the place to buy fruit and vegetables, but also to sample exotic cooking from all over the world, as more and more eating places are to be found amongst the market’s 120 stalls. Particularly noteworthy are Neni, with dishes from Israel and the Orient, and the “ecological” cuisine of Tewa. But the best approach is to walk around the market with your nose on the alert for the aromas that most strike your fancy. There are even more places to eat on the streets near the market, such as the spectacular On Market, specialising in Asian food, or the Café Amacord, for Viennese treats in a setting heavy with local atmosphere.

Leaving Naschmarkt, we headed for Schleifmühlgasse to find a street that is also famous for small, exquisite Indie restaurants with very tempting fare behind the show windows. One such is Babette's, a shop selling cookbooks, spices, and other items where hot food is also served, and then there’s Coté Sud with its tasty French dishes. More temptations await you on other streets of the Freihausviertel son interesantes en la ruta.

Karmelitermarkt

Like Naschmarkt, another market taking on a whole new life is Karmelitermarkt, on the other side of the Danube in District 2 (Leopoldstadt). Check out Schöne Perle, with its home-cooking interpretation of traditional Viennese cuisine, and the organic, seasonal fare offered at Zimmer 37, There are many more surprises for you on the lively, nearby streets of Praterstraβe and Leopoldsgasse.

MuseumsQuartier

Another spot worth a visit it MuseumsQuartier (MQ), a cultural enclave with numerous museums and exhibitions of a wide variety of artistic disciplines, and also brimming with the most inviting cafes and restaurants. In the courtyard, mulled wine is served these days at the Christmas market, to the music of a DJ, and in the summers you can even rent hammock space there for serious chilling. Glacis Beisl, though almost hidden in the rear part of MQ, is usually fully booked by people anxious to partake of its local and international dishes at very affordable prices in a pleasant atmosphere. If you can get a table, this is a great place to eat after a morning visiting museums.

Spittelberg

Jus behind MuseumsQuartieris the charmingly Bohemian Spittelberg, consisting of a few cobbled streets enclosed by Burgasse, Breite Gasse, Sigmundsgasse and Mariahilter. Here you’ll find a wide choice of dining options, amongst then Amerlingbeisl with its lovely courtyard, Das Möbel with its original furniture, and all for sale, Die Burgermacher for delicious hamburgers and also vegetarian dishes and a fresh “special of the day”, and Trattoria da Paolo & Anna a small Italian restaurant with chequered tablecloths and delicious food.

And if you come at Christmas time…

At Spittelberg you’ll find one of the city’s best Christmas markets, specialising in handcrafted items. Another busy and festive Christmas market is that of Rathausplatz, with 150 stalls selling decorations, gifts, and sweets treats of every variety. You should try the hot wine (Glünwein) and the Viennese pasty –you can’t leave Vienna without sampling the Apfelstrudel, and here you’ll find it at its very best.

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As in the rest of Poland, after World War II, Cracow took on a new lease of life, its past and present both palpable in a city well worth discovering. You should venture into the Old Town (Stare Miasto) and stop over in Rynek Główny, one of the largest squares in the world, descend into the underground museum underneath it to journey back to the Middle Ages, enjoy a beer and some good music in the lively Jewish quarter (Kazimierz), stroll along the banks of the Vistula, go up to Wawel Castle and wander through the city’s markets, streets, memories… And, of course, dive into the local cuisine. A warm, tasty, homemade cuisine, with Slavic, Jewish and Hungarian influences which you can try at affordable prices in dozens of restaurants. We made a thorough tour of the city and let ourselves be charmed by it. Here’s what we learned.

Pod Baranem and Pod Nosem – Enjoying Polish Cuisine

Located very near Wawel Castle is Pod Baranem, a cosy, intimate restaurant with very efficient and friendly service. They serve a good żurek, a soup made of fermented rye flour, with egg, potato and homemade sausage. It is potent and tasty, like many dishes with local DNA. Also worth trying is their cabbage stuffed with meat and mushroom sauce, as well as their good meat dishes. If you’re keen on crockery and table ornaments, you will leave the restaurant wishing you could take everything with you. A classic charmer.

In the restaurant of the boutique hotel at Kanonicza 22, Pod Nosem, they serve up Polish cuisine, but this time with a creative flourish of renewal. A young crew headed by their chef, Przemysław Bilski, perform to perfection in a quaint space and terrace with views of the castle. They have delicious pierogi (typical Polish dumplings with different fillings) and other dishes, including a highly refined cream of asparagus, various meat dishes and even tripe. Their wine list is good and it is difficult to choose from their broad array of cakes.

Eating Cheap in Cracow? Milk Bars and Lunchtime Menus

Cracow is not an expensive city but, if you’re looking for a place with good food at laughable prices, your best option is to head for a “milk bar”. Reminiscent of their Communist past, these milk bars (mleczny, in Polish) are no-frills self-service eateries, their menus chalked up on the walls – an average ticket would cost 5 euros per person. A recommendable venue in the centre is Pod Temida and, if you’d like to see where the concept eventually leads to, be sure to visit Milkbar Tomasza.

Apart from milk bars, another option for cheap meals are the lunchtime menus offered by many restaurants. Highly recommended venues include C.K. Dezerter – where, for just €4.5, they serve, for instance, a scrumptious soup with semolina, and fish with a salad of fermented cabbage, carrot and potato – and the Chimera garden, an incredible salad bar with menus of the day, a large number of veggie recipes, homemade cakes and juices.

Cafés, Bars and Pubs In the Ever-Lively Jewish Quarter

The area around Plac Nowy is packed with bars, restaurants and terrace cafés which are lively all day long. It is an eye-opener to venture inside and see their unusual decor, featuring souvenirs from bygone times. Mleczarnia, and the Mlekowoz terrace café just opposite, as well as Alchemia, with live music, and Wódka Cafe Bar, with dozens of Polish vodka varieties, are some of the most interesting spots in the area.

In Plac Nowy, it is also customary to eat at the food stalls serving zapiekanka (huge panini with loads of ingredients and sauces). If you prefer something less filling, we recommend you go to Szynk, a charming haven of homemade cuisine and good music. We had a delicious soup there – Cracow has so many soup dishes you could have a different variety each day of the year – and chicken stuffed with spinach and cheese. We loved it!

Text and photos by Silvia Artaza of Gastronomistas.com

Girona with its rich history, is one of the most interesting cities in Catalunya. Walking all along its medieval walls and the Força Vella (Roman Foundation) you will be immersed in its more than 2000 years of History. You can’t miss the Jewish district, el Call, a labyrinth of narrow streets still in perfect condition, that will bring you remains of the past.

Figueres is at 40km from Girona. Well-known ciy thanks to Salvador Dali and his Theater –Museum, built in XIX and considered the bigger Surrealist object. Same artist, Salvador Dali, was in charge of the construction. He lived his last days in the buiding and ordered to be buried in there.

If you want to enjoy this route, you can do it with Catalunya Bus Turistic, one visit around Girona and the Surrealistic Universe of Salvador Dali in Figueres.

On Catalunya Bus Turístic you will be informed in different languages. Also you will get brochure with detailed information about places to visit, maps and several discounts for places of interest, restaurants and shops.

Departures from Barcelona.Prices: Adult: 73 €/ Child (0-7 years old): 0 €

Picture from Luidger

Thessaloniki is redolent with a chaotic – and even decadent –  air, set in the West but facing the East, proud of a past characterised by Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman influences, yet imbued with modern, contemporary momentum.Thessaloniki (or Salonika) is not as popular as the capital, Athens, and does not exert the same draw as the absolutely exquisite Greek islands, but its streets are full of the delights that warrant flying there to be able to stand before the White Tower. Here, then, are some of its myriad charms.

Although a typical drink throughout the country, in Thessaloniki, frappé coffee is a religion. You will see them everywhere and at all hours, local folk sipping away at them in huge glasses, stuffed with a sort of evolved, iced cappuccino topped generously with foam. Cafés, bars, restaurants, ice-cream parlours… it is served in all kinds of establishments, but the best of them all is Paradosiako, an exquisite café and ice-cream parlour located in Aristotelous Square, the hub and heart of the city.

Thessaloniki is a city of churches. Marvellous churches, like Agios Panteleimon, the Church of the Acheiropoietos and Agios Athanasios. However, the most iconic church in the city is clearly the monumental Church of the Rotonda or Agios Giorgios. Designated a World Heritage Site in 1988, together with the Arch of Galerius (just over 100 metres from the Rotonda), this is the oldest church in Thessaloniki or, as some sources would have it, the oldest church in the world.

Sport is taken seriously in Greece, and in Thessaloniki, no less so. It is quite an experience to visit that volcano of passions, the Toumba Stadium, to see PAOK FC playing. Or, if your thing is basketball, head for the clamorous Alexandreio Melathron arena, home to the historic Aris FC.

Adjacent to Aristotle Avenue stands the Ladadika, the former oil market. You can find all kinds of shops and stalls in this maze of alleyways, a blend of Western market and Arab souq, with wares ranging from food to garments, and from spices to implements. On the south side, near the sea, is an area with the most contemporary restaurants in the city.

The epitome of the Mediterranean diet, Greek food is an orgasm on one’s taste buds. Bent on savouring one of the most widely acclaimed cuisines in the country, it would be a sin to visit Thessaloniki without tasting such local delicacies as xoriatiki salata, melitzanosalata, moussaka, youvetsi, bouyiourdi or mydia saganaki.There are excellent restaurants and taverns all around the city, but Neos Galerios (Apellou 3) is one of those small family restaurants (a variation on the Spanish Casa Pepe) where you can eat plenty and well for a moderate price.

In 1917 Thessaloniki was devastated by a fire from which only the upper district of Ano Poli was spared. Ringed by part of the old Byzantine and Ottoman walls, this jigsaw of steep, winding streets, and one-storey houses with colourful patios, enjoys privileged views of the rest of the city down below. You can walk up to Ano Poli, but the climb is likely to wear out your shoe soles. Your best bet is to take bus 50 which follows a circular route past the city’s cultural landmarks.

Thessaloniki is Greece’s cultural capital, particularly when it comes to the world of cinema. The majestic Olympion Theatre, located in beautiful Aristotelous Square, is the site of the Thessaloniki International Film Festival, the leading event of its kind in the country. Less than five minutes away lies the old harbour which has been partly remodelled and given over to cultural activities. One of the old shipyards now houses the Thessaloniki Cinema Museum. The rest of the refurbished shipyards host such events as the local editions of the Barcelona In-Edit (a music documentary film festival), and OffsideFest, a football documentary film festival.

The symbol of Thessaloniki is the White Tower, the sort of landmark which visitors to any city are bound to come across, even unwittingly. Once used as both a fortress and prison, the structure you see today was built during the period of Ottoman domination by Suleiman the Magnificent, most likely on the site of a pre-existing medieval construction. The White Tower is the point of departure for a walk down the Nikis, a promenade which stretches for several kilometres along the city’s seafront.

Mt Athos lies about three hours’ drive from Thessaloniki. Sacred to the Greek Orthodox Church faithful, this mountain rises from a rocky peninsula alongside the Aegean Sea. Around twenty monasteries are located on this mountain, including some of the oldest and remotest monasteries on earth, which are home to about 1,500 monks. The Holy Mountain enjoys a form of local autonomy and access to it is restricted. Women are not allowed to set foot on the mountain, while access to male visitors is limited to 200 Greeks and 10 foreigners per day.

Don’t wait to experience the magic that is Greece – check out our flights here.

Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by L'imaGiraphe, Tilemahos Efthimiadis, Stella Vardaki, Dmitry Artyukhov