Theatre at its Best, Set in the Streets of Old Bucharest
B-FIT in the streetor D’ale Bucureştilor, is held in the streets of Bucharest’s old city from late May to early June each year. This admission-free festival features a host of events, including theatre stagings, open-air cinema, music performances and parades, attended by thousands of festival-goers. No other place is so evocative for enjoying the folk music and medieval traditions of the B-Fit festival as the narrow backstreets of the area. So, now that we find ourselves in the picturesque historic centre of the Romanian capital, let’s wander through the area to soak up its charm.
A City with a Parisian Air
Bucharest was once known as the “little Paris of the East” for its French influences, still noticeable in its wide avenues and, like the French capital, a striking triumphal arch at the entrance to Kisseleff Avenue. This grand avenue was the megalomaniacal dream of Ceauşescu, who wanted to better the Champs Elysées by making it a few metres longer than the original model. Under his rule, a large part of the city centre was demolished to make way for ugly Communist-era buildings.
Piața Unirii (Unification Square), one of the largest in the city, is also reminiscent of the grand squares of Paris. It is intersected by Unirii Boulevard, which marks the divide between old and new Bucharest, affording comparative views of the contrast between the two.
Lipscani – A Historical, Lively District
North ofUniriisquare,after crossing the Dâmboviţa river canal, lies Lipscani, the centrul vechi (historic centre) of Bucharest. This is one of the most interesting areas as, fortunately, it managed to elude Ceauşescu city plans. It is a lively quarter, packed with bars, restaurants and modern pubs throbbing with activity.
Also fronting Unirii Square is Manuc's Inn (Hanul lui Manuc),a centuries-old inn architecturally way ahead of its time. Its magnificent inner court, which was once a staging area for the throngs of carriages that plied across Europe in the mid-19th century, now accommodates charming terrace cafés.
Well worth visiting is the Curtea Veche archaeological excavation which houses the residence commissioned by the 15th-century ruler, Vlad III Dracula or Vlad Țepeș the Impaler, the Transylvanian nobleman whose legend was immortalised in the novel, “Dracula”, by Bram Stoker. A visit of Curtea Veche might include venturing into some of its underground halls, browsing through its museum and taking vampirish shots of Vlad’s bust.
Prominent among the jewels of religious architecture in Lipscani is the priceless Stavropoleos Orthodox church, built in response to the call of numerous Greek merchants resident in Bucharest for a place of worship.
Eating at Historical Restaurants and Modern Terrace Cafés
The above Orthodox church is usually stumbled on by tourists heading to the restaurant known as Caru' cu bere (Beer Cart), a veritable institution in the city. It is housed in a neo-Gothic building listed as a historic monument, and its interior boasts numerous art nouveau adornments. Although it includes a terrace, we recommend eating indoors to admire the murals, mosaics and stained-glass windows, and soak up part of the history that has played out between its walls. Since it was first opened in 1899, it has been a meeting place for Romanian artists and writers.
Cafeneaua Veche (Old Café), on Covaci Street, is another venue you must see. It is Bucharest’s oldest café, dating from 1812, and is a heritage site listed by UNESCO. Later on you could spend some time listening to music in one of the many lively pubs along Covaci Street, notably the 1974 or the Underworld.
Another traditional restaurant in the old city is Crama Domnaesca, on Strada Selari. This is the perfect place for splashing out on a fully-fledged banquet, to try the main dishes in Romanian cuisine in a setting with medieval décor. Price is no object, as they are generally laughable in comparison to restaurants in other European countries.
What are you waiting for to hit Bucharest? Check out our trips here.
Text by Scanner FM
Images by Jordi Joan Fabrega, Richard Mortel, fusion-of-horizons
more infoSicily in Bites
Sicily sits proudly in the Mediterranean, aware of its plentiful charms. Its cuisine is one of these. Not only is it self-supplied from its splendid larder, it provides the whole of Italy with its produce. Fresh market garden produce, fish, wines and confectionery which, although available across half the globe, taste that much better when savoured in situ. Hence, the Grand Festival of Italian Cuisine par excellence is held on this Italian island every year with the onset of summer. This year’s Cibo Nostrum will take place from 11 to 13 June. The festival sees producers displaying their wares in street stalls, while chefs and locals swarm the precincts to explore the latest offerings and share them with whoever happens to be on the island. If you’re planning on an escape to Sicily, this event will enable you to discover its culinary splendour.
Around one hundred chefs and wine merchants will be taking part in the event, for which the attendance figures continue to grow each year. If you still don’t know what it’s like to taste a good local wine at the foot of Mt Etna or to savour oily fish followed by cannoli in the formidable Taormina, be sure not to miss out on Cibo Nostrum if you want to enjoy such moments.
Over a three-day period, which will include ongoing, live culinary demonstrations, you can taste the essence of Sicilian cuisine served up on a platter. Clearly, you would need more time to discover the island more thoroughly, but Cibo Nostrum will point you in the right direction to glean the major ingredients, dishes, assortment and venues.
Must-visit restaurants include Sabir Gourmanderie, set in a priceless park on the slopes of Mt Etna, which is ideal for discovering flavours typical of the volcanic soil, and Kistè Easy Gourmet, the new eatery of chef Pietro d’Agostino in marvellous Taormina.
When in Catania, among the wine cellars with good food and the usual wine shops, we can recommend Salumeria Scollo for tasting and sampling, as well as the Etnashire wine shop on Viagrande, which also has an online store where you can order the Sicilian products of your choice. You will want to bring your suitcase back with such wines as Vigna la Miccia or Notti Stellate, a sparkling Castelluccimiano Brut or the Marsala which in Sicily pairs really well with dessert cheeses.
And, if we delve into the realm of sweet things, as that is the sort of memory you will take from the island, make a point of dropping in on the pâtisserie run by master pastry chef Corrado Assenza at Caffè Sicilia, the undisputed king of the most exquisite signature cassata (a traditional cake based on ricotta, sugar, sponge, marzipan, candied fruit and castor sugar) and cannoli (a tube-shaped confectionery filled with ricotta cream).
Book your Vueling to Catania and don’t hesitate to soak up the flavours of the island.
Text by Belén Parra of Gastronomistas.com
more infoHogmanay in Edinburgh
New Year’s Eve is marked by special events in all the world’s major capitals. However, few take it so seriously as the people of Edinburgh. Hogmanay, as the festivity is known in Scotland, dates from the 16th century. Pagan in origin, it was brought to Scotland by early Gaelic and Viking settlers. The liturgy for Hogmanay was simple – it was customary to visit the homes of friends and neighbours just before midnight in order to be the first to cross the threshold carrying small gifts like fruit cake, whisky, biscuits or salt to celebrate the occasion. With a tradition of nearly six hundred years to back it, Hogmanay has become one of the most important festivities in Scotland and a tourist magnet for anyone wishing to experience a different New Year’s Eve. The celebrations are long drawn out, crammed with activities marrying culture and entertainment and featuring an extensive review of Scottish history. One interesting statistic – in the mid-nineties, the Guinness Book of Records rated Hogmanay the biggest New Year’s Eve celebration in the world, with over 400,000 celebrators each year.
The upcoming Hogmanay, which will mark the passage from 2016 to 2017, will be held from 30 December to 1 January, a very full weekend during which numerous special events will be hosted at various venues in Edinburgh. In effect, the celebration provides visitors with a unique opportunity to discover the city’s most emblematic landmarks in just three days. Two tips about coming well prepared – be sure to bring both sturdy trainers and thick coats, as the temperatures in Scotland at this time of year are icy cold. Having said that, let’s go over the highlights of the festival.
The standout event is without doubt the Street Party, held in an area sectioned off in the city centre, and set against the backdrop of famous Edinburgh Castle. Various shows are staged from 7 o’clock in the evening of 31 December until 1 in the morning. One of the highlights is the musical fireworks display, held to see out 2016 and bring in 2017. A varied programme of top-notch musical performances will be hosted before and after that event at various venues. From the independent pop of The Charlatans – one of the most acclaimed British groups, with a track record of four decades – to the traditional Celtic sound of Ross Ainslie and Ali Hutton, to jazz gigs by James Brown is Annie and Brass Gumbo. There is even a slot for DJs to plug their hits.
Another show you simply cannot miss is the Torchlight Procession. Scheduled for 30 December, the parade files through Edinburgh’s Old Town and is a charity event long associated with Hogmanay. The dynamics of the procession are simple – you can attend as a spectator or purchase a torch for twelve pounds and join the mass march past, which ends with the lighting of a huge bonfire, a sound and light show and a fireworks display which will be visible from various parts of the city.
We wind up this review of the highlights of Hogmanay (there are many events, which you can check out here) with the grand finale, the Final Fling, featuring Gaelic folk dances. The Final Fling will be held in the Grand Hall of the National Museum of Scotland on Chambers Street, with Heeliegoleerie as the guest stars. Heeliegoleerie are one of Scotland’s most well-established bands who perform at the Ceilidh, an ancestral Scottish festival which acts as a social gathering and also hosts music and dances.
Come and experience Hogmanay for yourself – book your Vueling to Edinburgh here.
Text by Xavi Sánchez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more infoJourney to the Heart of Albariño
The Galician district of Salnés, in the province of Pontevedra, has the honour of being the cradle of one of Spain’s supreme varieties of white wine – albariño. Made from the grape variety of the same name, these wines are young, fresh and fruity, with the right touch of acidity, making for a delightful experience on the palate and pairing to perfection with one of the region’s main products – seafood. Apart from the wines, touring this grape-growing region is packed with enticements as the land is redolent with spectacular scenery, dominated by the presence of the Arousa estuary and its typical country homes, known as pazos, as well as its hórreos (granaries raised on stilts), its cuisine and, needless to say, the affable character of its people.
You are bound to have a host of experiences in the numerous wine cellars you will encounter on your way. The Pazo de Rubianes is the most spectacular example by far. Designated a “Garden of International Excellence”, and with a history going back 600 years, this priceless country manor is surrounded by gardens likely to enchant any nature lover. For its part, the magnificent example of 16th-century Galician stately home that is the Pazo de Señoráns will take you back in time. In the town of Sanxenxo stands the Adega Eidos, built in a far more modern style than the preceding ones as its facilities date from 2003. It affords some excellent views of the Pontevedra estuary. Also built in more contemporary style is Paco & Lola Wine Cellar and Vineyards, founded in 2005, with over 22 hectares given over to vineyards and wines increasingly more in vogue.
And, in between moving from one wine cellar to the next, we recommend stopping off at the Cambados Wine Museum where you can learn about the history, art, geography, grass-roots culture and all viniviticultural aspects of the Rías Baixas DO.
A Pause Along the Way
Man does not live by wine alone and at some point you will need to refuel, so your best option is to do so in the typical ambience of a local pazo. One such manor that is well worth visiting is the Pazo Carrasqueira, a fine example of typical Galician architecture. Built in the 18th century, it has now been turned into a nine-room hotel, with its own albariño cellar of course. Another interesting option is Lagar de Costa, a family winery with lodgings that offer a tour of their vineyards and the island of A Toxa.
The Festa do Albariño in Cambados
Each summer the heartland of albariño wine production is given over to the Festa do Albariño in Cambados.Designated a Tourist Interest Site in 1990, this is the crowning event related to albariño wine-making. What started out in 1953 as a contest between wine producers, promoted by Bernardino Quintanilla Álvarez and Ernesto Zarate, is currently a full-blown festival, with concerts and all kinds of activities suited to all audiences. This year the festival takes place from 2 to 6 August and provides the ideal excuse for tasting the great local albariños in an incomparable setting and ambience, a great final fling after a route through this spectacular wine-growing region.
Book your Vueling to Santiago de Compostela, less than an hour away from Cambados, and gear up to tour this viticultural region dotted with pazos and homesteads full of charm and great wines.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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