You will often hear me say that I feel Basque by adoption and, if there is something I especially like about the Basque Country, it is their passion for sport in general. There are some I am not very good at, and are only suitable for locals, such as harrijasotzea (stone lifting), lasto altxaketa (bundle lifting), aizkolaritza (tree-felling), esku pilota (open-hand pelota) and even football, which is really big here. There are three local teams in the first division – Athletic de Bilbao, Real Sociedad and Eibar.

However, there are other sports which, as far as I’m concerned, are also well-entrenched in Euskadi. I have chosen the eight I would like to take part in (as a sportsman or spectator) in the next few months. I would also encourage you to try them out, or at least to come and watch them.

1. Cycling – The most widely commented sport may be football, but, in the Baque Country, the one engaged in by most is cycling. Professionally, there is the Vuelta al País Vasco (where you can delight in the famous muro de Aia, in Zarauz, including some ramps with a gradient of 28%), and the Clásica de San Sebastián. For the amateurs, there is the Bilbao-Bilbao, a race you can safely jot down in your agenda. Orbea, the oldest make of bicycles in the world, is visible in all these trials and this year marks it’s 175th anniversary. It has a track record of almost two centuries, in which it has won Olympic Games, triathlon world championships and mountain bike competitions. In short, a sport all Basques can be proud of.

2. Road Racing – After cycling, running is the next most popular sport. The most genuine local race I have ever seen is the Behobia-San Sebastian, a straight-line race that starts near Irún and ends in Donostia-San Sebastián. I will be there again in November and I hope you wll also run it some time. Run for it! Literally, if you haven’t signed up already, because the tickets sell out like hot cakes, both for the race, accommodation and flights.

3. Mountain Running – This is undoubtedly the most genuinely Basque form of running. (It is referred to as trail, but is actually a mountain race.) The culminating race is the Zegama-Aizkorri which, like theBehobia, links two towns and has a limited number of tickets available.

4. Open-water Swimming – With a coastline of over 250 kilometres, the Basque Country may be regarded as territory to be conquered by boat and – why not? – by swimming. The Basques have little fear of cold water or the Cantabrian Sea. Crossings like the Mundaka Swim (from Bermeo to Mundaka), on 27 June, the Getaria Zarautz, on 26 July, or the Vuelta a la Isla en Donosti are unique experiences. Be warned – admission is limited. If you like swimming, we recommend you check out bestplacestoswim and add your comments.

5. Traineras – The trainera is a vessel associated with the Cantabrian seaboard. It is a rowing boat – although it can be fitted with sails – which emerged in the 18th century as a fishing vessel. It subsequently evolved into what is now considered a sporting rowing boat which is strictly regulated in terms of weight, size, etc. Unlike the Olympic rowing boat, the trainera is fixed-seat. Why should this be so? Well, here it is a question of tradition, as that it how the old arrantzales (fishermen) used them. The major competition is the ACT, while the most prestigious one is possibly the Bandera de la Concha, held in Donosti every September. I was lucky enough to spend one morning with the oarsmen of Mundaka, known as Mundakarra, who had competed in the latter race in 1986 and 1987. Now, thirty years on, their trainer, Sabino, continues to spread his infectious enthusiasm among the youth of Mundaka. I also caught the bug – if I am tempted just once more, I’ll be taking  up the oars next season!

6. Triathlon – Very much in vogue are the races known as the Ironman or Half Ironman (the most demanding race in this category, which involves swimming 3.86 km, cycling for 180 km and running for 42.2 km). In Euskadi, a full-blooded Basque triathlete is likely to attempt them all. They are all tough and spectacular – Bilbao Triatlón, Zarautz, Memorial Onditz and, while we’re at it, the X-Terra Basque Country. The first two are half-distance; the third is Olympic, with a women’s version the previous day, and the last one is a cross triathlon. What characterises them all? The fact that these races are set against incredible backdrops and an exciting atmosphere.

7. Surfing – Surfing and, now, SUP (Stand Up Paddle) are highly popular in these northern climes. Near Bilbao is the beach of La Salvaje, or Sopela, and Mundaka itself, considered to have had (or to still have) the best left-hander in Europe. All the classics of the ASP (Association of Surfing Professionals) have surfed here. Further towards Donosti lies Zurriola, in the centre of San Sebastián or Zarautz. Schools like Pukas are doing a great job. Apart from surfing itself, SUP (Stand Up Paddle) is also riding the waves big time. Bilbao is very much up with this new pastime, which is why it hosts the Iberdrola Bilbao World SUP Challenge, one of the leading races on The Euro Tour circuit.

8. Red Bull Cliff Diving – This sport is not in any way Basque, but in the last year its popularity has soared after this majestic, stunning competition was held in the Bilbao estuary in 2014. It was so successful for both parties that El Botxo is now included on the Red Bull Cliff Diving circuit for the finals. Here, we’re all supporters of the Czech, Michal Navratil. Who are you rooting for? If you want to soak up the spectacle, you ought to start booking your ticket and accommodation for 27 September. What advice could I offer if you’re up for it? For your overnights, just opposite where the competition takes place is the Barceló Nervión. And, here are four suggestions for eating out: for a good Sunday brunch, nothing better than the Brass or the mercado de La Rivera. If, on the other hand, you’re looking for something more traditional, like the ritual of crawling for pintxos, you are best advised to roam the historic centre or García Ribero street. A third option which would imply more sophistication, but without burning a hole in your pocket, is the Bascook, where Aitor Elizegi has spent years blending the most traditional Basque cuisine with the latest gastronomic trends. Lastly, if you want to indulge in good local fare and you don’t mind leaving Bilbao, go up to Kate Zaharra. There, you will be treated to wonderful views and the best fish you have ever tasted. If after all the intensity you’re still strong enough to work out in the gym or simply wish to chill out in a spa, UP Bilbao offers day tickets.

There you have it – 8 very Basque sports which are also a way of leading a healthy, active life with a local flavour. And, you don’t need to have a surname such as Zubizarreta, Ibarretxe, Urkullu or Igartiburu. Personally, I am elated at having been adopted by this magical land, with all its diversity. Are you up for discovering what sport means to the Basques? Book your ticket here and start working out.

Text by Raúl Casañas

Images by Pello Osoro, Ioana Manolache, Jon Saez, Igor Arzanegui, Jon San Juan, RominaAmato, RedBull ContentPool

By Josep Sucarrats from Gastronomistas

The fact that in Lyon you can eat like nowhere else in the world has been known since time immemorial. But it was Curnonsky, a renowned food critic from the early 20th century, who first said it in black and white. In 1925, following the construction of the N-25 road linking Paris to the Mediterranean coast, he set about creating a travel guide for lovers of fine cuisine. In Lyon, Curnonsky discovered foies, cheeses, wines and sweets. He was seduced by the ‘bouchon’ (local version of the famous French bistros) and succumbed to the flavours cooked up by the mères. The mères were women chefs with unrivalled culinary skills. People in Lyon regard them as the heart and soul of local cuisine.

The city’s culinary legend was born and there was no going back. The fusion of great produce and even greater chefs gave substance to Lyon’s status as an international capital of good food. This fact was ultimately driven home by a top chef famous the world over: Paul Bocuse.

Today, the mark left by of Paul Bocuse, his imposing countenance, tall white chef’s hat and authoritative look can still be found all around Lyon. In his four restaurants, in the photos of market stalls in Les Halles where he gets supplies – did we say Les Halles? Let’s get it right: a couple of months ago, it was renamed Les Halles Paul Bocuse— or in the dreams of anyone from Lyon who has yet to visit his legendary L’Auberge de Pont de Collognes.

Very soon, from 6 to 9 December, the capital of the Rhone-Alpes region will be celebrating its famous festival of lights, when all the city’s monuments are lit up to create spectacular artistic performances. A great excuse to visit Lyon and indulge yourself in this culinary paradise.

1-An authentic ‘bouchon’: Café des Fédérations

We haven’t eaten at every ‘bouchon’ in Lyon, far from it, but we have eaten here and it has to be one of the best and most authentic in the city. We recommend going there when you’re very hungry: traditional Lyon cuisine is very rich and hearty. As an aperitif, pork crackling. For first course, poached egg au vin with crackling or endive frise with crackling (so much crackling!). Lentils: “it’s not caviar, but still”, they warned us (they came in a mustard sauce and were simply delicious). That’s settled then: lentils are good and caviar is overrated. Chicken with vinegar or pike soufflé. Cheeses. Sweets. Such a banquet encompasses the very best of authentic Lyon cuisine, superbly prepared and with two further enticements. The first is Yves, the owner, the restauranteur who awaits you in his house, who serves you, who wines and dines you and is so friendly you’d ask him to share your table. And the second: the prices (€15 for the set lunch menu and €25 for the set evening menu).

Café des Fédérations. 8, 9, 10 rue Major Martin. Tel. 00 33 4 78 28 26 00.

2-A gastronomic monument: poulet en démi-deuil

The prices may not be its greatest attraction (after all, this restaurant does have two Michelin stars), but, if you can afford it, you really should treat yourself. They don’t serve just any old dish! Poulet en démi-deuiles is a veritable orgy for the taste buds. Imagine free-range poultry raised on the finest farms near Bresse, well fed, meaty and tender, imbued with the taste and aroma of real truffles. The recipe consists of stuffing the space between the skin and the meat with sliced truffles. You have to be a glutton….for pleasure! Poulet en démi-deuiles (which means something like ‘chicken in half mourning’) is what made the first female chef to be awarded three Michelin stars famous. That was back in the 1930s and the chef in question was Eugénie Brazier. Eugénie, a motherless, illiterate country girl, had a very strong character indeed. The walls of Lyon still shudder whenever a chicken comes out of the oven overcooked. Paul Bocuse learnt his trade at her legendary restaurant, La Mère Brazier. Today, it is owned by master chef Mathieu Viannay who, along with his innovative creations, has kept many dishes of his illustrious predecessor on the menu. He’d never dream of forsaking the poulet en démi-deuiles that has enticed so many celebrities to Lyon.

La Mère Brazier. 12 rue Royale. Tel. 00 33 4 78 23 17 20

3-Choose from a 3-take menu with one eye on Japan: Do-Mo

Lyon’s gastronomic heritage, popular or bourgeois, is so mega famous, so legendary the world over and, at the same time, so full of itself, it’s hard to ignore. Yet a short stroll along the city centre streets, even with blinkers on, shows us that Japanese cuisine is fast gaining a foothold. It must appeal to the locals because Japanese restaurants are opening all over the city. Here’s our recommendation for a rather unique experience. At Do-Mo, the produce on offer is given three takes: French, Franco-Japanese or Japanese. So you can, for instance, order your beef French style, with a hint of wasabi for that touch of fusion, or in a 100% Japanese tataki. And the same applies to their three takes on spring rolls, sea bream or chocolate, to give a few examples. Do-Mo provides an ultra-modern setting in the new neighbourhood that has sprung up along the banks of the Saône. During the day, it offers picture-postcard views. At night, it’s teeming with beautiful people. On a nice day, it would be a crime not to enjoy its delightful terrace. And any evening visit simply must end in its fashion lounge next door. As well as the a la carte menu, it also has two set menus: €49.50 and €39.50. It even has a kids’ menu, which they don’t actually call “kids’ menu” and doesn’t consist of sausage, chips and beans. It’s called the Jeune Gastronome and includes a dish from the 3-take menu plus a dessert for €12.

Do-Mo. 45, quai Rambaud. Tel. 00 33 4 37 23 09 23

4-Cheesemakers: Let’s try some Saint-marcellin!

Many shops in Presq’île — i.e. the Peninsula, which is the popular name for the area of Lyon between the rivers Saône and Rhône — as well as numerous market stalls in Les Halles, showcase the fact that people from Lyon are also mad about cheese. The most typical local cheese is Saint-marcellin, a soft cheese with a fermented crust and made from cow’s milk. You can find this cheese and many more besides at La Mère Richard, a famous cheese stall at Les Halles, whose owner is an expert at recommending cheeses for her customers, uses only the finest suppliers and has a colourful character to rival even Madamme Brazier herself. The women from Lyon would seem to be as intriguing as the cheese: we love it. Both the intrigue and, especially, the cheese.

Mère Richard. Les Halles Paul Bocuse. Tel. 00 33 4 78 62 30 78

5-Cool lodgings: bed and breakfast at Mama Shelter

We all need to rest. Lyon is a city of commerce full of comfortable hotels, it’s easy to find somewhere to stay. But if you chance upon somewhere unusual, all the better. If you like to feel cool, look no further. Mama Shelter is the hotel for you. The staff are young and friendly. Each room has a Mac screen displaying a personal welcome message. The clientele are all easy-going and take full advantage of the hotel’s nighttime DJ sessions as well as the wholesome breakfasts. Despite its loud colour scheme and hip decor (which we don’t dislike), the dining room at Mama Shelter transmits a decidedly zen-like ambience which helps set the mood and opens your appetite for the days’ gastronomic tour. While it may not be located in the most central area, it is well connected by underground, bus, tram and trolleybus. Lyon pulls out all the stops when it comes to public transport.

Mama Shelter. 13, rue Domer. Tel. 00 33 4 78 02 58 00

6-Stop off at a cake shop and buy a cream puff

Lyon is also the perfect destination for those with a sweet tooth. Among the many treats on offer, one stands out above the rest. They are light as air with a creamy filling. Need more clues? Ok, just one more. They are made from choux pastry and usually come with a cream or truffle filling. You got it, cream puffs and profiteroles. Yet Lyon’s choux pastries are the same as you’d find in any French city, such as Toulouse, or Courbevoie, to use the birthplace of Louis de Funes as an example. Lyon does, however, have its own local sweet treats, such as coussins (literally, pillows) or cocons (literally, cocoons). One option is to sample these traditional specialities. Another, which we highly recommend, is to drool over the tasty treats on display at Clostan Traiteur. And, once you’ve finished drooling, you can buy and enjoy exquisite cakes, mousse, tiramisu and a thousand variations on traditional desserts, which led to this master confectioner’s being named the best in the world in 2012.

Clostan Traiteur. Magasin Halle Paul Bocuse. Tel. 00 33 4 78 62 93 03

7-Quenelles never seen (or eaten)

Lyon may be far from the sea, but its inhabitants have always enjoyed eating fish. Back in the middle ages, some local monks created artificial pools in order to farm pike. Today, the area has been turned into a nature reserve. But let’s get to the point: this ensured a plentiful supply of fish, and with one kind in particular — pike, or brochet in French — they created the quenelles that are so typical of Lyon. They are usually made with choux pastry mixed with wheat pasta, butter, eggs, milk and, of course, brochet. The chef uses two spoons to shape the mixture into semicircles, which explains why everyone associates this shape with quenelles. They can be so big that one alone is a meal in itself. Other times they’re smaller, so you can try lots of different kinds. At Giraudet, they give them their own creative touch – adding squid ink and other innovative ingredients – leading to long queues of people anxious to buy them.

Giraudet. Les Halles Paul Bocuse. Tel. 00 33 4 78 62 34 05
Giraudet. 2, rue du Cl Chambonnet. Tel. 00 33 4 72 77 98 58

8-Jesus! We’re not being blasphemous, it’s a kind of salami

Cold sausage deserves a chapter all to itself in any good food guide to Lyon. While the city’s sausage makers use recipes that share a common base, they all add their own special touch, so you won’t find two establishments selling the same thing. This special touch is a closely guarded secret that gives each sausage a unique personality. Basically, it’s all about aromatic herbs and spices. Some of the more popular varieties include cerveuil (which must be cooked, contains pistachos and, in its more luxurious form, truffles), saucisson a cuire (literally, sausage to cook), rosette (a long, slender cured sausage) and, above all, Jesus. The cured sausage known as Jesus is made from the widest part of the intestine and gets its name from the fact that, during the production process, it is wrapped in twine which, according to legend, gave it a quality reminiscent of baby Jesus. Who would have thought? What we do know is that it’s Lyon’s greatest cold sausage and that any Jesus like this makes even the most hardened atheist pray for more.

9-Browse around the market and have lunch there

There’s Bresse chicken. There’s foie. There’s truffle. There’s cheese. There’s wine. Lovers of good food be warned, if you enter Lyon market, you’re doomed. You’ll no doubt come away with a little more cholesterol and a little less money. But that’s the cross we foodies have to bear! To avoid breaking the bank or punishing your taste buds, we suggest that you stay at Les Halles for lunch, where there’s something to suit every pocket. We’re huge fans of Passionnement Truffes, a small bistro inside the market where truffles rule supreme. At lunchtime, they offer an affordable set menu for €19 (dish of the day — a big serving —, dessert and a glass of wine). We had the tenderest chicken ever covered in mushroom sauce. And it filled us with bonheur.

Passionnement Truffes. Les Halles Paul Bocuse. Tel. 00 33 4 78 60 15 98

10-Le beaujolais est arrivé!

The area around Lyon is famous for its wines, boasting no less than four denominations of origin. Beaujolais is one, and it’s been made popular thanks to the beaujolais noveaux, the first wine of the year, the youngest wine. It’s uncorked barely two or three months after harvest (between November and December) and fussier wine lovers will tell you that it’s not worth the effort, since it’s better to let wine age. But the anticipation of wine growers to try the first fruits of their labours infects all of us as well. Let’s hope we’re never deprived of the chance to raise a toast, cry out Le beaujolais est arrivé! and celebrate the fact that we, and our taste buds, have fallen in love with Lyon. And such love lasts forever.

Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!