Among the many charms of Spain’s capital, the quarter known as the Madrid of the Austrias is one of the most exciting areas in the city. The irregular layout in this section of Madrid’s historic district dates from the 16th and 17th century. It was the setting for duels and intrigues, and a privileged witness to the passage of the Habsburg dynasty through the city. Indeed, it was the Habsburgs or Austrias who chose Madrid to be the capital of their empire and they had it embellished to reflect that status.

Plaza Mayor and Environs

The Plaza Mayor is the main precinct to be built by the Austrias in Madrid and, as such, the perfect spot to start our itinerary. Full of atmosphere and thronging with people, it is one of Europe’s most beautiful squares. The project designer was Juan de Herrera, commissioned by Philip II, although it was during the reign of Philip III that it acquired something like its current appearance. I say “something like” because it was gutted by fire in 1790 and had to be restored to a design by Juan de Villanueva. Sited on one side of the square is the Casa de la Panadería, dating from 1590, the first building to go up in the precinct. In the centre of the square stands the equestrian statue of Philip III, by Giambologna and Pietro Tacca.

Emerging from the square along Calle Gerona, opposite us stands the opulent Santa Cruz Palace, in the Plaza de las Provincias, which originally served as a royal prison. Built in Herrerian style as of 1629, in 1791 it also sustained fire damage and was likewise restored under the direction of Villanueva. However, some of its original features were retained, notably the main entrance portal, the twin towers flanking the facade and the large, central coast-of-arms. Since 1938 it has been the seat of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

In the same square stands a replica of the 17th-century Fuente de Orfeo (Orpheus Fountain) – the original is housed in the National Archaeological Museum. Continuing along Calle de la Fresa as far as Calle Postas, we come to the Posada del Peine, one of the oldest hostel facilities in Spain, founded in 1610.

Calle Arenal and Plaza de Oriente

From here we walk into Calle del Arenal, site of the popular, 17th-century Church of San Ginés which houses a large number of artworks. Nearby stands the legendary San Ginés Chocolate Factory, dating from 1894, a favourite among Madrilenians for having chocolate con churros.

The area between Calle Arenal and Gran Vía contains a network of streets which are the site of a  number of well-preserved monasteries, including the Monastery of the Descalzas Reales and the Convent of the Encarnación.

Further along Calle Arenal we come to the Plaza de Isabel II, formerly known as the Caños del Peral, with its spectacular Teatro Real facade. The square was important at the time of the Austrias as standing in its centre was one of the city’s major fountains. The remains of this fountain can still be seen by going down into the Ópera metro station.

Going around the Teatro Real we come to the Plaza de Oriente, home to the Royal Palace, which stands on the former site of the Habsburg citadel, known as the Alcázar. South of the Plaza de Oriente lies the Plaza de Ramales, once the site of the Church of St John the Baptist, where Diego Velázquez was buried. Oddly enough, various searches were conducted to find his bones. They were never found, but are still believed to be somewhere in the square.

Heading down Calle San Nicolás, we emerge into one of the oldest parts of the quarter, featuring the church of St Nicholas of Bari, the oldest church in Madrid. Turning back towards Calle Mayor, we come across the Palace of the Dukes of Uceda, a majestic 17th-century residence. Next door stands the Church of El Sacramento, which was financed by the Duke of Uceda in 1616.

Back in the Plaza Mayor, a must-visit landmark is the Arco de Cuchilleros, a traditional arcade lined with mesones and home to the famous restaurant, Casa Botín which, founded in 1725, has the honour of being the oldest restaurant in the world. The Arco de Cuchilleros was built by Juan Gómez de Mora in 1619 to offset the split level between the square and the Cava de San Miguel. This building, which is three storeys higher than the rest of the ensemble, was for centuries the tallest construction in Madrid. Behind the Cava de San Miguel lies the San Miguel Market, a favourite among Madrilenians when they go out to eat top-quality tapas. Near the market stands the Plaza de la Villa, one of the most emblematic Habsburg squares in the city on account of three unique buildings – the Casa de la Villa – the former City Hall – the House and Tower of Los Lujanes and the Casa de Cisneros.

Be sure to visit the Austrias’ Madrid – book your Vueling here.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Often we believe that to discover great landscapes in the world we must go to remote places, far from our borders, beyond Europe… We believe the more exotic the country is, the easier it will be to find that stunning landscapes, full of life, that we only see in the movies or in our dreams. But nothing could be further from truth because close by, in Cabo de Gata, we can find one of the most important natural ecosystems in Spain, 37k terrestrial hectares and 12k sea hectares of protected area.

We talk about unspoilt white sand beaches, cliffs, caves, coves, desert and mountain range, all in the same spot. The UNESCO declared it a biosphere reserve, it occupies 63 kilometres of coastline and the seabed is listed among the richest in the Mediterranean. This is a fantastic place with endless activities to enjoy nature in Almeria. Here is a list of the most remarkable places in Cabo de Gata.

BEACHES AND COVES

At Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park we can find spectacular cliffs, amazing nature beaches, urban beaches and beautiful coves. The most popular are listed bellow:

Genoveses beach: Located at Campillo Genovés, it is part of the most beautiful bay in the park, situated in a valley which has not being built on, has a fine extension of 1 km of dunes of sand. This is a virgin beach with stunning panoramic views.

Mónsul beach: With a volcanic origin, the Mónsul beach is surrounded by ancient lava flows eroded by the wind and the water during the years until formed the stunning landscape we can see nowadays. This is, no doubt, the most famous beach in the area, as it was featured in several movies such as Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

Playazo beach: surrounded by the mountains in one side and the San Ramón castle by the other, we can find one of the most beautiful beaches in the park and, at the same time, one of the most accessible and comfortable. Furthermore, not far from here and following a short path we can reach the cove Bergantín.

Enmedio cove: One of the most wild and unspoiled coves in the area, it’s surrounded by fossilized dunes and has great views to the Agua Amarga town, in the other side of the bay, and right behind, the Mesa Roldán hill with its lighthouse and castle. As a case in point, New York Times featured the beauty of this cove in a recent article.

Los Muertos beach: The beach with bluer and clearer water in the area. From here you can also access El Peñón and Las Salinicas coves. This is a beach that is difficult to access to, it is also a quite dangerous one, because of hard east winds, and that’s where the name comes from.

TOWNS AND PLACES

El Cabo de Gata is one of the most arid areas in Spain and on of the driest in Europe, but it has a long-standing tradition of fishing, with old charming little towns. The average annual temperature is around 18 and 20 degrees. This is a place to be explored in order to understand the natural wealth in this country.

La Isleta del Moro: A fishing village full of charm, years ago was the cradle of Arab and Berber pirates. This place is perfect to enjoy Mediterranean seafood.

San José: It is considered the capital town for the nature park; San José is also the biggest town inside the park, perfectly located as beaches, coves and nature surround it.

Los Escullos: The writer Pérez-Reverte used this stunning location for his book “The Nautical Chart”. The San Felipe castle, the beaches and fossilized sand dunes surrounding this place should not be missed.

Níjar: This town was able to preserve the tradition of whitewashed houses, keeping the vestiges of Arab heritage. This place is perfect to purchase crafts.

Las Sirenas reef: One of the most photographed and iconic sightseeing places in the park because, in addition to its great beauty, the lighthouse at Cabo de Gata is the exact point where the southeastern part of the peninsula ends.

Image from Emilio del Prado

Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!

1- El Caminito del Rey (King’s little road)

Known by fans of extreme sports for being one of the most dangerous roads in the world . It is a 3-kilometer pedestrian walkway with sections just 1 meter wide that gets to hang up to 100 meters above the river and is located between the villages of Alora and Ardales. King Alfonso XIII had to cross it in 1921 to inaugurate the prey to Conde del Guadalhorce, hence the name.

Only from that grace so typical of Malaga can be understood that an idea like this was born. Taking advantage of the promotion of Smurfs 3D movie , the village was painted blue and, after a popular consultation, it was agreed to extend the painting of the facades. The town of Juzcar became the first Smurf Village in the World on June 16, 2011. Thanks to the original proposal, it has become a leading destination for family holidays.

This strange construction, which pays tribute to Columbus and the Discovery of America, is located in Benalmadena and is a compendium of architectural styles as diverse as Moorish, Romanesque and Gothic, that give the monument an air somewhat bizarre .

On the inside you can visit which is considered by the Guinness Book of Records as the smallest chapel in the world , with just 1’96 square meters. On the few occasions on which Mass is celebrated in the chapel, Christian believers should listen from outside.

Of Frigiliana is said to be one of the most beautiful and best preserved villages in Spain . With just 3,000 inhabitants, is situated in the eastern part of Malaga’s province, between the Sierra de Almijara and the Mediterranean Sea. Its streets of medieval-Moorish style’s architecture and its old town has been awarded prizes such as the Improvement and Embellishment of Towns of the Province, the Beautification of the people of Spain or the First Prize of National Award Competition improvement and Embellishment of Towns of Andalusia.

There is another curiosity in the beautiful town of Ronda. Its Iglesia de la Merced maintains what they callSanta Teresa de Jesus’s incorrupt hand. About ten months after the saint’s death , in 1582, her remains were exhumed, and the Catholic Church claims that her body was found incorrupt. Now this relic has being protected by a gilded silver glove embedded with precious stones.

Facing the beach El Bajondillo in Torremolinos, this beautiful Neomudejar style building has survived property speculation. The simple fact of surviving Costa del Sol’s fierce land speculation, is in itself something extraordinary. It is also one of the most beautiful and emblematic places with interior decor inspired by the Alhambra in Granada. The house was declared a Historic Landmark by the Department of Culture of the Junta de Andalucía in 1991.

7.- How to order a coffee in Málaga

This video comes to be a useful guide in how to order coffee in Malaga, with the measurements invented by the Central Cafe Malaga. There are 10 different ways to ask for it and many visitors might wonder where their nomenclature comes. Began in 1954 in postwar times, when coffee was more expensive. The owner of the Café Central, José Crespo Prado had to choose between throwing coffee or do another again, to suit all tastes. To avoid wasting coffee, identified 10 possible amounts of coffee and named them, so you always have a measure that would suit your tastes.

 Finally, some interesting facts related to the movies. For example, the final scene of the movie “Milennium. Men Who Hate Women”, in which Lisbeth leave the car with a briefcase, was shot in the Malagueta beach, on the Paseo Marítimo Pablo Picasso. Apparently, this area showed perfectly the idea that its director, Niels Arden Oplev, was to represent the Cayman Islands.

In Málaga, movies like Michelangelo Antonioni’s The Passenger , starring Jack Nicholson and Maria Schneider, Jacques Feyder’s Carmen that starred Raquel Meller or San Luis Rey’s Bridge , starring Robert Of Niro and Geraldine Chaplin
The most common scenario for shooting was Finca de la Concepción because of the lush botanical garden that reminds exotic countries such as Cuba, the Philippines and India. Here was filmed, for example, The latest of the Philippines or the Adventures of Barber of Seville.

Why not take a trip to Málaga? Have a look at our flights here!

Gijón lacks the touristy sheen of some other Spanish cities, but it is well worth visiting. And, not only for its cute little Plaza Mayor which stands out in sharp contrast to the grandiose, monumental Universidad Laboral, located virtually on the outskirts, or for its broad, pleasant esplanade or the Cerro de Santa Catalina park, crowned with a sculpture by Eduardo Chillida, Eulogy to the Horizon.

Los Pomares

A 10-minute walk from the centre has its reward – the “Best Fabada in the World 2015”, an award they won from among 80 competing restaurants from all over Spain. Made of large La Granja beans orf abes,they are tender from almost five hours of simmering away in their gravy of 100% Iberian bellota (acorn-reared) morcilla (blood sausage), chorizo (cured pork sausage), lacón (shoulder of pork), panceta (streaky bacon) and tocino (fatty bacon). A long flavour with a spicy highlight and not at all rich, as they do not stir-fry. Also served up are squid-ink calamari, which leave you stunned, delicious Emmental and cauliflower croquettes and fresh fish and seafood which attract local pilgrims to the cider hall.

El Quinto

A winery offering both Asturian and international cuisine as Mariano Mier, their chef, just loves travelling (he has visited some 50 countries). His Gwao Bao – a sandwich made of Taiwanese steamed bread, with Astur-Celta-breed Gochu pork jowl, peanuts and cilantro – won the Madrid Fusión 2016 Spanish Tapas Championship, while his Okonomiyaki – an omelette with five vegetables and seven spices – was a finalist in 2015. El Quinto, which devotes thematic menus to several countries, was also a finalist in the Asturias 2016 Pinchos Contest, at which they entered their Ahi Poke Hawaiian salad, made of marinated tuna fish tartare, sesame oil, soy, sriracha sauce and spring onion.

Casa Trabanco

Learn all there is to know about cider. Situated in Lavandera, 10 kilometres from Gijón, a glance at their cider press reveals how apples are pressed – a 0.75-litre bottle is equivalent to a kilo of apples – and how they let the must ferment for 4 to 6 months in 40,000-litre wooden and stainless steel casks in a tunnel originally built to transport coal. The restaurant features produce from their market garden – onions stuffed with codfish or meat and arbeyinos (peas) served up with poached egg, cucharina (teaspoon) stews (fabada, pote…) and such dishes as T-bone ox, codfish omelette and diced nuggets.

El Candil

For those who like good fish, you’ve come to the right place. It is selected daily by José Luis Camacho, the life and soul of El Candil, who is obsessed with offering quality at a reasonable price. In addition to the fish dishes on the menu (sea bass, sea bream, alfonsino, sole…), he always has salmon he himself smokes in oak sawdust, as well as quality meats, stews such as fabada, chickpeas and green vegetables. At this downtown restaurant, which opens from Monday to Saturday, they offer products in season, while wines can be ordered from their continually augmented wine list by the glass, in half-litre jugs or by the bottle.

La Bolera

La Bolera is one of the best grillrooms in Spain. Its manager, Cuco, is an expert on beef and he applies his expertise as a geneticist and chef when offering dishes of Black Angus, German and Dutch Frisian, German Simmental, brown Swiss, Dutch Holstein and others. The dishes that come off his Cuban Marabú charcoal grill is capable of moving his diners– the 350 to 400-gram T-bone steaks are wolfed down in a trice, garnish included (the chips and red peppers are framers). Other noteworthy dishes include the codfish, capon and field-mushroom rice, and leeks stuffed with Iberian ham and cheese.

Hotel Blue Santa Rosa

A great accommodation option in Gijón is this functional, modern, bright, affordable 3-star hotel located in a central but quiet pedestrian precinct, a three-minute walk from the Plaza Mayor, on the San Lorenzo beachfront and marina. Customers have breakfast in their café-bar, while the lunch menu on workdays features stews (€6.90 for a single dish and €9.90 for two, both including dessert, bread, a beverage and coffee). The à la carte has pasta, sandwiches, pizza, hamburger and mixed grills which are never more than €8, and they are takeaways, too. Free high-speed wi-fi is included, while parking is optional.

Get going on your getaway to Gijón – check out your Vueling here.

Text and photos by Ferran Imedio de Gastronomistas.com