Top winter destinations
There are places that are perfect this time of year because of their pleasant climate and great prices, and because they are quieter than in summer. If you fancy a getaway over the next few months, these are the winter destinations to look out for:
more infoA Gypsy Route Through Paris
Jazz was of course born in the United States. However, if you care to read the finer print, you will discover that something happened in the 1930s in Europe which was to revolutionise American jazz. In the gypsy camps on the outskirts of Paris – now the city’s 18th arrondissement – the young Django Reinhardt improvised a fusion of swing and traditional Eastern European music on his banjo. He taught himself, paying special attention to finger position, and inadvertently invented jazz manouche or gypsy jazz, a genre which elicits virtuosity in the playing and is pleasant on the ear.
Django lost two fingers on his left hand when his caravan caught fire, prompting him to develop an unusual way of playing the guitar. His original style, agility and speed at producing notes earned him the epithet of “father of gypsy jazz”. Together with the violinist, Stéphane Grappelli, he created the legendary Quintette du Hot Club de France, the first gypsy jazz club.
The Festival Django Reinhardt was first inaugurated a few years after his death. It was held at Samois-sur-Seine, 50 kilometres south of Paris, where he spent his final years and where he is buried. The 38th edition of the festival will be held from 6 to 9 July 2017 and, although last year it had to be moved to the Fontainebleau Chateau gardens – 50 kilometres from Paris and well connected by public transport – the original essence of the festival has survived intact. The venue is a place of pilgrimage for Django devotees and the world’s hub of gypsy jazz. This year’s lineup will see the likes of bassist Avishai Cohen, Cuban pianist Roberto Fonseca, the guitar virtuoso trio of Jean-Luc Ponty, Biréli Lagrène and Kyle Eastwood, Woody Allen’s pet gypsy jazz favourite, Stephane Wrembel and the Django Memories Project, made up of the prestigious musicians who produced the soundtrack of the recently premiered film, Django. But, at this festival the music overspills the stage – artists and devotees from across the globe hold jam sessions all over the fair grounds, beating out gypsy rhythms and reliving Django Reinhardt’s musicality.
If after that “authentic gypsy encampment” you are game for more, we have made the following selection from among the many gypsy jazz clubs Paris has to offer.
This is unquestionably the temple of Django Reinhardt in Paris. The resident guitarist, Ninine Garcia, who hails from one of the top Parisian manouche families, leads the jam session every weekend from 12.30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Located in the Marché aux Puces, guests share a table – to taste traditional French cuisine – in a very squashed vital space, among guitars, violins and photos hanging on the walls recalling the master. Tucked away in the back room is a guitar workshop and a manouche jazz school. A venue that oozes genuine charm! 122 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen
Located in the heart of the Latin Quarter, MONK is a bar devoted to the world of beer. It boasts over 50 types of bottled beer, and 10 types of draught. But La Taverne de Cluny is also a jazz club. Every Thursday and Sunday, the small stage in this typically French bar, with upholstered little tables and chairs, fills up to the sound of top-notch gypsy jazz produced by such reputable artists as Christophe Brunard, Sébastien Giniaux and Samy Daussat, among others. A must-visit spot! 51, rue de la Harpe
This small, cosy musical café located just a few metres from the Canal Saint-Martinin the 10th arrondissement provides live music from Wednesday to Saturday. Over the last four years, the programme has been featuring gypsy jazz concerts from 8.30 p.m. on Fridays. L’Apostrophe has been graced by all the leading lights of the Parisian manouche scene, as well as gypsy jazz guitarists from the United States, Britain and Brazil, among others. Albert Bello, Spain’s top gypsy jazz exponent and the director of Festival Django L’H, the only festival in Spain dedicated to Django Reinhardt, has also performed there. And, the first Thursday of each month sees a jazz jam with the vocals supplied by Barbie Camion. 23 rue de la Grange aux Belles
Aux Petits Joueurs is a restaurant in the 19th arrondissement, a bistro in the purest French style where you can taste salads with hot goat’s-milk cheese, cheese boards, duck confit, tarte tatin and crepes, to name just the ABC of French cuisine. The restaurant features a jazz concert, ranging from Latin music to gypsy jazz, each day of the week except Mondays – when it is closed. The venue has seen performances by the leading figures of this genre, notably Adrien Moignard, Sébastien Giniaux and Pierre Manetti, among many others. Tuesdays and Wednesdays feature jam sessions at which some artists invite others, and it all ends up in a full-blown manouche festival. 59 rue Mouzaïa
A highly popular micro-bar, among other reasons for their reasonable prices – quite a feat in Paris – and their homemade meals. Located on the Boulevard de Ménilmontant, it is a favourite haunt amongbobos(from “bourgeois, bohemian”). A young, relaxed atmosphere frequented by veritable hordes of guests. The limited capacity does not deter them from hosting jazz sessions, led by guitarist Michael Gimenez and with the participation of various gypsy jazz artists, in a corner of the bar each Monday from 9 p.m. to 11.30 p.m. 115 boulevard de Ménilmontant
Book your Vueling to Paris and get into the swing of the gypsy jazz featured across the city.
Text by Teresa Vallbona
more infoExplosion of Colour at Carnival on Gran Canaria
With its five centuries of history, the Carnival of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria is a must-visit event for all enthusiasts of this festivity, when the streets in the capital of this fantastic Canary island are inundated with music, entertainment, colour, masks and other festival costumes. Its origins go back to the time of the island’s conquest, when its population included a large number of Genoese, who were instrumental in introducing the festivity – it is assumed to have been a highly italianised celebration during that period. The magnificent climate, the proximity of the beach and the friendly demeanour of the people meant that Carnival was here to stay. It has now grown into one of the most popular Carnival celebrations in the world.
Those of you wishing to experience for yourselves this year’s Carnival of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria should head for the island between 10 February and 5 March, when most of the scheduled activities take place during the lengthy festivity. The list of things to see and do is endless, but the crowning moments include the Gala de la Reina (the Queen’s Gala), the Carnaval al Sol (Carnival in the Sun), held at Las Canteras, the shortlisting and election of the Drag Queen at the Drag Queen Gala, the Traditional Carnival at Vegueta, the Carnaval de Día (Day Carnival) in Santa Catalina and the Cabalgata Infantil (Children’s Horse Parade). Spoiled for choice?
The nerve centre of Carnival is located in Santa Catalina Park, where the highlights of the festivities are staged. Local streets and establishments fill up with people dressed in striking costumes, ready to express themselves to the full.
Every year has a central theme for the festival, and this year it is The Eternal Spring, which is supposed to inspire the costume design of both locals and festival-goers from everywhere, all intent on coming to enjoy the Carnival of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. Here, you would be hard pressed to see anyone not concealed behind a mask, wig or fancy dress of some kind – you have been warned.
Your Carnival experience will often be accompanied by the sound of murgas –similar to the chirigotas of Cádiz – with ensembles chanting songs set to satirical lyrics poking fun at the political and social status quo, in addition to comparsas or carnival troupes dancing to the beat of batucadas (percussion groups). Be sure to let yourself get carried away by the rhythm!
Any festivity worth its salt also has a culinary facet, and the Carnival of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria is no exception. Be sure to taste the tortitas de carnaval (carnival flapjacks), sopas de miel(a bread pudding) and pan dulce (sweet bread), all designed to restore your energy after so much revelry and upheaval.
Time for a Breather
If you’re lucky enough to be able to spend so many days that you end up getting worn out from so much cavorting to the Carnival beat, fear not. Gran Canaria is an island laden with secluded spots where you can wander about far from the everyday bustle. You can take the opportunity to sunbathe and have a dip at Maspalomas beach, or that of El Inglés, marvel at the natural spectacle provided by the blowhole known as the Bufadero de la Garita, or head for Tejeda and its stunning lunar landscape, presided over by the formidable Roque Nublo.
Pick up your fancy dress and get ready to delight in the Carnival of Gran Canaria – book your Vueling here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by El Coleccionista de Instantes Fotografía & Video
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Avignon is Culture, Its Bridge Notwithstanding
No bridge seems to be as famous as the one in Avignon, the central theme of one of the best known children’s songs in France. Indeed, it has been sung in virtually all languages – local guides can even sing it in Japanese – so it comes as no surprise that anyone arriving at the battered Pont Saint-Bénézet is likely to sing the song or even dance it. This structure, twice destroyed by flooding along the Rhone, has become an icon of this Provençal city and its ambassador par excellence, earning it universal fame.
Apart from its bridge, Avignon, which is just an hour’s drive from Marseille, is a historic city, having once been the capital of Christendom and the centrepiece in one of the major schisms in the Catholic Church. Dating from that period is the formidable Papal Palace, the largest known Gothic palace. In the 14th century it witnessed a cultural and economic Renaissance that saw the arrival of bankers, artists and writers from all over Europe in a quest to be near the papal orbit – Petrarch was one of them.
But, it was not until five centuries later that Avignon again became a beacon of intellectual activity. 1947 saw the birth of the Avignon Festival, France’s longest-standing and most celebrated event devoted to theatre and the scenic arts and one of the most firmly rooted festivals in Europe. This year it runs into its 70th edition and will be held from 6 to 24 July at more than 30 venues.
A turning point in the Festival’s schedule of events came in the year 2000 when Avignon was designated the European Capital of Culture. Then ensued a cultural revival in this, the major population centre in the department of Vaucluse – set in the new region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur – as attested by the opening of the Lambert Collection – Museum of Contemporary Art, set up in 2000 around a historic endowment by the merchant and collector, Yvon Lambert. The endowment is admirable and comprehensive and features permanent exhibitions showcasing the work of Jean-Michel Basquiat, Sol LeWitt, Douglas Gordon and the ever-controversial photographer, Andrés Serrano, among other artists, as well as numerous temporary exhibitions.
Avignon has ten museums in all, prominent among them being the Musée du Petit Palais, with a large collection of medieval painting, the Calvet Museum, the Musée Angladon, dedicated to Impressionism, and the Musée Louis-Vouland, which specialises in the decorative arts. There is also an opera theatre, an exhibition park and some unique facilities like La FabricA, a theatre factory where various companies rehearse their performances in the run-up to the Avignon Festival.
Art is also present in Les Halles Market, endowed with a stunning vertical garden created by the artist, Patrick Blanc. This market is the ideal spot for buying fresh produce and Provençal specialities at one of their forty plus stores.
It would be amiss to end this article without recommending some of the venues for eating the tastiest food in Avignon. One is Maison de Fogasses, a splendid town palace which offers an exquisite menu of the day for around 20 euros based on locally sourced products. Another is LE 46 which specialises in French cuisine with Mediterranean flourishes.
Avignon is the perfect destination for a getaway from Marseille. Check out your flights to Marseille here.
Text by Tus Destinos
Images by Tus Destinos, Avignon-Tourisme (C.Rodde)
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