The Venice Biennale Art on Steroids
Those who think cultural tourism is a 21st-century invention are well off course – Venice invented it long ago. Intent on setting the city under the international spotlight, the first International Art Exhibition ever was held there in 1895. That is, the Venice Biennale, which has continued until this day.
The undisputed artificer of the avant-garde art pulse – Documenta notwithstanding – the Biennale has run into its 57th edition without losing steam. Six months full-out, from 13 May to 26 November, during which the city is invaded by contemporary art, which takes over both land and sea. What with vaporetti, churches and palazzi, we visited the city of canals to soak up the latest trends, soon to descend on museums and art galleries across half the globe. Let the Grand Tour begin!
Survival Manual
A cautionary word to all navigators – moving through the Biennale is no mean feat. The key – comfortable footwear, strategically placed accommodation and solid planning. The offerings are boundless and the spaces, gargantuan.
The main facilities are located at the Arsenale and the Giardini di Castello. Those are the sites of the official exhibition, Viva Arte Viva, as well as many of the 85 national pavilions dotting the island. And, as if that weren’t enough, the list is augmented by countless top-notch parallel exhibitions and events that have staked out their territory in the city’s historic buildings.
My advice – keep calm and don’t get flustered. The marathon only comes around every two years. Set aside three days on your agenda and you won’t succumb in the attempt. Take up lodgings in the area of Il Castello, the Biennale’s hard core, thereby avoiding vaporetto tickets. And, have a notebook on you and a camera with fully charged batteries so you can review the sights once you’re back home.
In the Giardini – the Cream of the Crop
Separating the wheat from the chaff can be exhausting. By way of a warm-up, we headed south-east, to the confines of the city. Located there are the Giardini di Castello, Venice’s green lung par excellence and the preserve of the national pavilions (a somewhat archaic idea, a reminder that the current Biennale is an updated version of the classical trade fairs of yesteryear). The fact is that in Venice each state has its own building to showcase to the world the cream of the crop of its contemporary art production, by way of an Art Olympics where the winner manages to show the most muscle.
While the Biennale is all about art, it is in fact also about power and architecture. In terms of the latter, some pavilions shine with a light of their own. Not to be missed are the Finland pavilion, built in timber modules by the luminary, Alvar Aalto, the father of modern Scandinavian architecture; the Austrian pavilion, the work of Josef Hoffmann who, together with Gustav Klimt, founded the Vienna Secession, and that of The Netherlands, its open forms highlighting the minimalist elegance of 1950s neoplasticism.
But, let’s get back to art and to the most talked-about offerings. The Golden Lion for the Best Pavilion was awarded to Germany, where artist Anne Imhof installed a glass floor under which performances displaying the world “as a kennel” take place. France depicts a musical space and recording studio, Studio Venezia, an installation designed by Xavier Veilhan where musicians and artists from all over the world perform. And Austria draws all the camera flashes with a lorry standing on its nose by Erwin Wurm, a playful proposal in a pavilion redolent with sculptures which visitors can interact and have fun with.
The Off Programme
Side shows, parallel exhibitions, talks, dialogues, performances and film cycles – no body is built to withstand Venice. Indeed, the official programme is rivalled by a series of first-rate artistic proposals staged in churches, foundations and museums around the city. Here, then, are the juiciest offerings in the Off-Biennale 2017.
Damien Hirst has hit Venice with a two-fold proposal. At collector François Pinault’s art spaces, the Punta della Dogana and the Palazzo Grassi, he has installed his latest eccentricities,including an 18-metre-high sculpture which rises into the firmament. In keeping with the British artist we are familiar with, his show is pure spectacle, and the perfect excuse to visit two historic buildings overlooking the Grand Canal.
The tiny island of San Giorgio Maggiore surrenders unconditionally to Michelangelo Pistoletto. A key figure of Arte Povera and one of the most prominent Italian artists, Pistoletto presents One and One Makes Three, an exhibition housed in an abbey designed by Palladio where he showcases a selection of his works created between the 60s and the present, also featuring his popular “Venus of the Rags”.
We wind up our marathon tour at the Palazzo Fortuny, a Venetian Gothic gem which rises between the Rialto Bridge and St Mark’s Square. This former home and studio of painter Marià Fortuny houses both the artist’s collection and temporary exhibitions. This time around, it is the turn of Intuition, a collective display dedicated to the evocative power of art and featuring such great names as André Breton, Joan Miró, Vassily Kandinsky, Marina Abramovic and Anish Kapoor.
Thus far our review of the Biennale, a centennial event which reinvents itself each year and showcases art to suit all tastes, interests and theories. We’re off to the canals!
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Text by Núria Gurina
Photos by: Andrea Avezzù, Jean-Pierre Dalbéra, Francesco Galli, g.sighele, imagea.org, Erin Johnson
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Oslo: Pure Life, Pure Trend
By Tensi Sánchez from actitudesmgz.com
The city of Oslo is located in the formation of one of the most beautiful fjords in Norway which is named the same way. Surrounded by more than 40 islands, lakes and woods, it´s one of the most amazing cities of Scandinavia.
It´s a great destination when we plan a trip thanks to the wide range of activities that the city offers. Nature and metropolitan trends are perfectly mixed, nowadays making the city an essential destination for every architecture, art, design and nature lover. Actually, Oslo is the only city in the world which offers access to sky slopes by metro, so that makes it appealing in every season of the year.
It´s development has been brutal over the last ten years, placing it as one of the highest living standard capital in the world. What is more, lately new museums have been opened in town and they have become the port in a hive of culture and leisure. That´s why Oslo is an attractive destination for tourists.
The best option to start moving around the city is to buy the Oslo Pass ticket which gives access to transport and museums.
The port located in Aker Brygge area, contains modern buildings, restaurants, museums, galleries and shops where you can easily get lost a whole day.
Following Aker Brygge, we walk through the zone of Tjuvholmen where the Astrup Fearnley Museum of modert art built in 2012 by the architect Renzo Piano, is placed. Its peculiar architecture and location make it Oslo’s most amazing museum among others. In the same zone the recently inaugurated The Thief is located: one of the city’s most impressive hotel. Its hall is a visit not to be missed.
From the same port and with the Oslo Pass card, you can take the ferry that transports you to the island of the museums situated in the area of Bygdoy. The most interesting ones are the Fram Museum, which hosts the breathtaking icebreaker and the Museum of the Vikings Boats. But there are plenty more. Back to the port you can have a drink in some of its boat-bar or restaurants, enjoying in the open air of one of the most beautiful views to the fjord. Among all the restaurants we highlight Lofoten and Onda Sea for its magnificent fish and fresh seafood.
Scandinavian design, in particular the Norwegian one is very precious. Its habitants can boast of being situated in a very good level and being well appreciated. The Norwegian style nowadays it’s on the rise and its fashion, design and decoration shop are a proof of it.
Among them we highlight: Balder Interior , Dapper, Moods of Norway, Pur-Norsk, Koma, Tulip & Tatamo Trikotasje, Norway Design; and last but not least House of Oslo: the first and only shopping mall of Norway specialized in design and Norwegian lifestyle, with more than 20 shops distributed over its four floors.
Sunday it´s the perfect day for visiting Blå market in the area of Grünerløkka which is placed on the other side of Akerselva River. A very trendy meeting point for eating or enjoying live local music. This market is very peculiar as you can discover marvelous vintage clothes, purses, books, records, accessories etc., in an unique atmosphere. In fact, it´s the area where cheapest beer and most amazing graffiti that you won´t stop admiring, are.
Grünerløkka zone is far from the noise of the tourists and getting lost through its streets and discovering its shops, restaurants and bars it´s very appealing.
Very close to Blå, in Vulkan, is located a building (inaugurated this year as well) with industrial appearance that places a gastronomic cultural center: Mathallen, where products from Norwegian manufacturers and imported products can be eaten and bought. It´s perfect for enjoying local food.
Around the building shops, bars and contemporary art galleries are being inaugurated, for example Vulkan Gallery. Without any doubt it will be a zone to take into account in the city.
Oslo is a city culturally alive; especially when the weather is good. That´s why we can´t miss festivals like Øya, which is the biggest open air pop- rock music festival in Norway.
If you are want to get to know more about Oslo check the webpage Visit Oslo and discover thousands of possibilities that the city and its surroundings offer you.
By Tensi Sánchez from actitudesmgz.com
Photo and video : Fernando Sanz
Perfect plan to go with frineds. Check out our flights!!!
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The Manhattan of Europe
By Tensi Sánchez from Actitudes Magazine
Frankfurt on the Main, commonly known as Frankfurt, is one of the most important cities in Germany and one of Europe’s leading economic and financial centres.
Tradition and modernity live side by side in this German city on the banks of the River Main. Its skyline of metal and glass buildings is reminiscent of the famous views of Manhattan as seen from the Hudson River. Although modernity has made its mark on this Bavarian metropolis, many architectural treasures still remain of what was, centuries ago, one of the most important cities in the German empire.
A perfect symbiosis that endows Frankfurt on the Main with a timeless ambience, where conservative German style, contemporary architecture, classic European art and cutting edge design create a fusion that makes this city an ideal destination for all types of tourism.
From Haupbanhof, the city’s main station, we can explore almost the entire city without having to use public transport. As we stroll among Frankfurt’s modern building’s, the old city begins to make its presence felt ever more clearly with each step. Along the cobbled streets in the city centre, we discover magnificent examples of classic German architecture: balconies teeming with flowers, houses with red tile roofs and picturesque buildings that reflect the history of a Medieval city.
The main artery of the city is the Zeil and adjoining streets, all full of shops and shopping arcades. We recommend visiting Zeil Galerie, where we find shops like The Hub, a concept store offering such brands as Acne and Filippa K, as well as the boutique Balmain, Mathew Williamson and vintage articles at Moschino, Vivienne Westwood and Issey Miyake, among others. Another great option is Superette du design, a spectacular shop selling decorative items and gadgets, or Leonid Matthias, a multi-brand store with articles by both German and international designers. From the Zeil Galerie roof-top terrace, you can enjoy fabulous views over the city centre.
The city’s old quarter is home to many famous buildings, such as the former Römer city hall inRömerberg square, Hauptwache, Frankfurt opera house, St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral, the Stock Exchange guarded by a bronze bull and a bear that represent the ups and downs of the stock market. The historic city centre boasts modern, state-of-the-art buildings such as the European Central Bank and theMMK Museum of Modern Art, one of the most important contemporary art museums in the world. Its vast collection includes works by Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Claes Oldenburg, Pablo Picasso, Mario Merz, Jeff Wall, Marlene Dumas, Bruce Nauman… The museum is also home to the Club Michel City restaurant, offering a pop-art ambience, the perfect place to take a break and wind down.
On the banks of the River Main we find the museum area, popularly known as Museumufer (Museum Embankment) a series of ten wonderfully restored villas converted into cultural spaces, all with cafés, shops and extensive gardens. One of the finest is the Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Arts), where you can find fashion design and Asian decor alongside locally designed furniture from 1925 through to 1985. The museum also has a concept store and restaurant. Another great museum in Frankfurt is the Städel Art Museum, which houses one of the finest collections in Germany: Rembrandt, Edgar Degas, Johannes Vermeer, Botticcelli…along with other great masters.
One of the city’s greatest attractions must be the Frankfurter Skyline, which includes some of Europe’s tallest skyscrapers, towering over 331 metres. And some of the city’s bridges offer fabulous views of the sunset.
The Frankfurter Skyline encompasses over 26 skyscrapers, including: Commerzbank Towerdesignedby Norman Foster and at 259 m is considered the tallest building in Frankfurt and the second tallest in the European Union, although it is surpassed in height by Europaturm at 331m, but this observation tower is not generally regarded as a building as it has no consecutive floors that can be occupied.
It is also worth mentioning Westendtower, Opernturm, Tower 185 and Main Tower, the latter being one of the most visited by tourists (entrance charged) and has an excellent restaurant known as Main Tower Restaurant & Lounge.
The Eurotheum skyscraper is home to INNSIDE Frankfurt Eurothem, the ideal place to relax in the evening, located as from the 22nd floor and serving wonderful cocktails to the sound of live piano music while we marvel at the breathtaking views. A truly unique experience. While this hotel is quite incredible, those who are not too keen on heights and prefer a more relaxed atmosphere can stay at the vanguard hotel that is part of the same chain,INNSIDE Frankfurt Niederrad, just one stop from the main train station and the perfect place to relax and wind down after exploring the city.
Picture by Rubén Seco
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Steel Glass & Art 21st Century Bilbao
Its industrial past well behind it, but true to its roots, Bilbao is today a modern, cosmopolitan city offering the finest cuisine, music and, in particular, art and architecture. Indeed, ever since the Guggenheim Museum opened to the public in the mid-1990s, the Basque capital has become a magnet for devotees of contemporary art and architecture. In tandem with the museum’s inception, the city saw an upsurge in urban renewal – historical constructions were restored, stunning modern buildings erected and the estuary precincts were integrated with green areas and the layout of a metro network, designed by the likes of Sir Norman Foster. Hence, Bilbao is currently one of Europe’s best cities to live in. Here, then, is our tour of its most groundbreaking museums and buildings.
Around the Guggenheim Museum
This monumental building designed by Frank O. Gehry is an icon of the transformed Bilbao and an international art and architectural yardstick. It is rewarding to saunter around the building and become enveloped in the curves on its facades, and in awe of the famous Spider by Louise Bourgeois, or the acclaimed Puppy by Jeff Koons. Venturing into its interior, however, is a unique experience. Wandering through the steel labyrinth of The Matter of Time, by Richard Serra, or visiting the noteworthy temporary exhibitions that pass through the Guggenheim, is something all art lovers should make a point of doing.
Near the museum stands La Salve Bridge. While is has been spanning the estuary since 1972, it was not until 2007 that the French artist Daniel Buren added its famous Red Arch. Also worth seeing and adjoining the Guggenheim is the New University of Deusto Library, by Rafael Moneo, with its monolithic volume and rounded corners.
Just behind it stands the Iberdrola Tower. Designed by César Pelli, this 41-storey, 165-metre-high tower with its dramatic appearance is the tallest building in the Basque Country. It is flanked by the Viviendas Ferrater housing project, two luxury buildings designed by Carlos and Lucía Ferrater, Xavier Martí and Luis Domínguez. Opposite them lies the Plaza de Euskadi, by the landscape architect, Diana Balmori.
The Museo de Bellas Artes – A Contemporary Classic
Located near the Plaza de Euskadi, opposite Doña Casilda Park, the Museo de Bellas Artes provides an enhancement to the great collections of classical European art with its selection of top-notch works, including a Lucretia by Lucas Cranach the Elder and paintings by Francisco de Goya, El Greco and Zurbarán, while the contemporary section features paintings by Miquel Barceló and Francis Bacon. Here, you can actually travel from ancient times to the 21st century. To cater for such a variety, the building, originally dating from 1945, was upgraded incrementally, leading to its current appearance. The latest renovation has endowed both the exterior and interior with a leading-edge look. It dates from from 1996, when Luis María Uriarte opened new spaces and added the structure and glass foyer which now provide access to the museum.
Strolling Along the Estuary
The ría, once a dark, polluted estuary, was converted into one of the recreational areas of choice for Bilbao’s residents. Part of this upgrade is due to the Isozaki Atea (Isozaki Gateway) project, an ensemble of seven buildings designed by the Japanese architect, Arata Isozaki, in collaboration with the Bilbao architect, Iñaki Aurrekoetxea. Opposite this precinct stands the Zubizuri Bridge, Santiago Calatrava’s contribution to Bilbao, although also the most controversial landmark in the city.
The Alhóndiga and Osakidetza
Venturing into Bilbao’s Ensanche district will inevitably lead visitors to the Azkuna Zentroa or Azkuna Centre, better known as the Alhóndiga, a former wine exchange which has now been converted into a vibrant hub of leisure and culture. Originally completed in 1909 to a design by Ricardo Bastida, it was innovative for its time on account of the architect’s use of such materials as reinforced concrete. Following an overhaul assigned to architect Philippe Starck, it re-opened to the public in 2010 as a multi-purpose centre.
A short distance away, you get the impression of suddenly having stepped into the heart of Europe when confronted by the Osakidetza (Public Health building), unmistakeable for the polyhedral design of its facade, by Juan Coll-Barreu.
Before leaving Bilbao, be sure to visit the city’s metro which, designed by Sir Norman Foster, is said to be one of the best in the world.
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Text and images by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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