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Birmingham and the Birth of Heavy Metal

Birmingham has long been characterised by its strong musical drive. In the sixties, it already had 600 pop and rock bands. Musically speaking, the Birmingham scene stood out for its fusion. Indeed, almost all the musicians in those groups also played in parallel bands. Even soloists eschewed being pigeon-holed and poured out a blend of styles in their live shows. The fact is that musical amalgamations have been part of the city’s DNA since the 18th century, when street musicians sounded out practically all the styles to be had. Diversity and the culture of experimentation have led Birmingham to engender several musical styles. In the sixties, it was the Spencer Davis Group super band that provided the finishing touches to British rhythm and blues through a combination of folk, jazz, blues and soul. Although Pink Floyd were the initiators, English psychodelics was consolidated in Birmingham by The Move. But, there is one style that became a mass, global phenomenon – heavy metal – which germinated in the early seventies and was captained by Black Sabbath.

Macho Rock

Heavy metal has always been regarded as the epitome of hard rock. Not for nothing did it emerge as a far more extreme form of rock than anything that went before it. But, why in Birmingham and not in London? For the simple reason that it emerged in the centre of the country where trade, information and trends were continually converging. In effect, this enclave lay halfway between the country’s two major musical poles. One was London, with its white, hard-blues bands, many of whom had conquered America in the previous years. The other, Liverpool, a veritable nursery of melodic pop. Aside from being a nexus between the two, Birmingham contributed its grain of sand by incorporating jazz as a condiment. But, that was not all – darkness, and the repetitive, mechanical component associated with a city smothered in factories since the Industrial Revolution, proved to be more than latent. All these components came together in the early records of Black Sabbath – “Black Sabbath” (1970) and “Paranoid” (1972). While the former still rested on the solid springboard of unmitigated blues, the latter heralded the birth of a new style, with a far more polished sound, suited to a wider audience. The disc topped the charts in the UK, and reached number 8 in the USA. That recording hit a milestone beyond the reach of most, and its influence was decisive in the birth of punk (Sex Pistols), post-punk (Joy Division), stoner rock  (Kyuss), grunge (Nirvana, Soundgarden, Mudhoney, Alice in Chains), and even rap (Ice-T, Cypress Hill).

The Father of the Child

Controversy is rife when it comes to asserting the paternity of the genre. There are two schools of thought – those who believe Led Zeppelin to be the pioneering band, and those who hold it to be the combo led by Ozzy Osbourne. At any rate, gestation clearly occurred in Birmingham and a large number of members of both groups hail from this city. All the members of Black Sabbath were nurtured on the local scene. Half of Led Zeppelin, too, as John Bohnam (drums) and Robert Plant (vocals) are local boys, having previously played in Band of Joy.

Conquering the World

Heavy metal managed to spread across the planet thanks to another Birmingham band – Judas Priest. Led by Rob Halford, they ratcheted the style up another notch, particularly with the release of “Stained Class” (1978), a disc that spearheaded what was known as the “new wave of British heavy metal”, which involved ditching the blues rock influence for good and focusing on other aspects of sound, such as power and speed. Their legacy sprouted ramifications in the form of speed metal, trash metal, death metal and black metal, and essential bands like Godflesh and Napalm Death. Their influence, however, was not only musical but also aesthetic, as it was they who ushered in prototypal heavy metal attire, based on leather, studs and the biker look.

A Heavy DNA Beyond Heavy

Many artificers of heavy metal music have sprung from the Birmingham scene, notably Blaze Bayley, Iron Maiden’s vocalist from 1994 to 1999. There are also those whose music, while not attributable to this genre, certainly influenced it in some way. Some of the most illustrious examples are Nick Mason, Pink Floyd’s drummer; Jeff Lynne, composer and singer with Electric Light Orchestra; Phil Lynott, the leader of Thin Lizzy – who was christened at St Edwards Church in Selly Park, very near Birmingham – and Marin Barre, the guitarist for Jethro Tull.

Birmingham’s musical spirit remains intact. Two scenes can currently be identified, both in rock and electronic. The city also boasts some of the most exciting festivals in the West Midlands, such as the Moseley Folk Festival, held in September.

Heavy metal never dies! Why wait any longer to discover the birthplace of this genre? Check out our flights here.

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Cindy Frey, Rowan Peter

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Down A Fine Danish Beer

Copenhagen is the capital of Denmark and its largest city, with a population of almost two million inhabitants, including its metropolitan area. Not bad for a northern city with long, harsh winters. However, the high population density is actually the result of brilliant economic planning. Copenhagen has managed to become the main trade hub between continental Europe and the whole of Scandinavia. Its healthy economy has led to such sectors as the leisure market expanding inordinately in the last few years. This has in turn prompted an upsurge in the number of restaurants, discos, bars and countless beer houses. We are going to recommend the ones we consider most inviting, but we will also be focusing on Carlsberg, the mother of all beers in Denmark. The label is a veritable institution for the Danes. And, we urge you to visit the Carlsberg brewery, one of the oldest in the world.

Possibly the Best Beer in the World

Before venturing into the vaporous world of Danish beer houses, let’s take a stroll through the crown jewel of that hops culture. I am referring to the Carlsberg Brewery, located in Copenhagen’s Vesterbro district, just 2 km from the Central Station. Buses no. 8A and 26 have stops very near the entrance gate. There is also a free shuttle bus which leaves every hour (from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.) from Vesterbrogade, 6.

The Carlsberg Brewery is sited in one of Copenhagen’s most vibrant districts. On arrival, the first thing that drew our attention was the iconic Elephant Gate – Elephant is one of the label’s most popular varieties – in addition to numerous architectural monuments, including contemporary ones like the Bohr Tower. This year sees the completion of a whole new quarter adjoining the brewery and a new train station named Carlsberg has been unveiled, further facilitating travel to and from the city centre.

Housed in the factory complex is the Carlsberg Museum. It is made up of several historic buildings containing rooms replete with art objects. Some of them were originally the private showroom of Carl Jacobsen, founder of the famous brewery. However, nowadays most of the collection is housed in Glyptoteket, in downtown Copenhagen. If you dine in the restaurant, you will be escorted by 19th-century paintings by Krøyer and empresses in marble. We were awed by the mosaics on the ceiling and the marble columns.

In the summer months, admission is free on Fridays. The brewery is turned into a bar with a patio where you can enjoy a cold beer or eat a barbecued meal with a funk, jazz or groove DJ session in the background.

The Best Beer Houses in Copenhagen

Denmark’s most famous beers are Carlsberg and Tuborg, but these two pilseners are not your only options when touring the city, as its beer houses offer a seemingly endless variety. Here, then, is a list of our three favourites.

1) Mikkeller & Friends

One of the most popular beer houses in Vesterbro. They have also just opened another venue three times as large in Nørrebro, and offer up to 40 different types of barrel beer. The interior is divided into compartments which are opened as and when the premises fill up. At Mikkeller & Friends you can also buy beer to take away – they have a list of 350 types of bottled beer from all over the world.

2) WarPigs

Here you will find a large variety of beers – they have 22 fonts on the bar counter. WarPigs is actually an enormous Texan-style barbecue restaurant with two breweries on the premises. One belongs to the Danish brewer, Mikkeller, and the other to the American brewer, 3 Floyds. The two of them came together here with the aim of creating the best beer in the world. We don’t know if they achieved this, but, what we do know is that they crafted the only Danish-American beer on the planet.

3) Dia’legd

We regard this as our great discovery, hands down! Dia’legd lies in the heart of Vesterbro and is home to beer from the island of Fionia. Dia’legd focuses heavily on the Danish brewer, Refsvindinge. We heard the story from Michael Jensen, Kim Hoffmann-Madsen and Claus Jordan, the three friends who decided to specialise in this spectacular beer. “We offer the whole range of Refsvindinge beer, of which there are over 20 types, from pale ale to bock lager, pilseners, wheat beer… right down to porter,” remarked Claus Jordan, enthusiastically. If you visit Dia’legd, be sure to try the Ale no. 16, which was acclaimed the best Danish beer of 1997.

Why wait to cool down on some of the most refreshing beers in the world? Come and discover them for yourself – check out our flights here.

Text by Los viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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There’s Life Way Beyond Barcelona’s Gayxample

While Madrid’s gay epicentre is based on Chueca, Barcelona’s equivalent is the so-called Gayxample. In other words, the rectangle in the Eixample Esquerra district bounded by the streets Balmes, Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, Comte d’Urgell and Aragó. And, the supply of bars and clubs mutates with the force of a tsunami each season. A prominent example are the discos at Club Arena, open from Monday to Sunday, a readily available resource for tourists and locals who can afford to stay the night. Sited in the same area is the Hotel Axel. When it opened in 2003, it became the first hetero-friendly hotel both in Barcelona and the world. The penthouse terrace is a classic place of pilgrimage where summer trippers can show off the muscles they have been working on all year around. No wonder it is one of the most popular stopovers during the Circuit Festival, which this year takes place from 2 to 14 August.

While Gayxample is a major hub of activity, the action also goes beyond its limits. One identity trait of Barcelona is its cosmopolitan ethos and the fact that all gays can find both bars and parties tailored to their needs in other districts. For instance, despite the closure of the iconic La Penúltima, in El Raval district, modern clientele have such alternatives as Zelig where, apart from the gin tonic de rigueur, you can also eat a good dish of pasta or some Dutch delicacy. Also on hand is La Casa de la Pradera (c/ Carretes, 57), a bar with a dance floor which would be perfect for those likely to migrate to the Sala Apolo later on, or, with their foot off the pedal, have enough with making the most of weekends until three in the morning. Another of the bars which has become all the rage is La Federica, (c/ de Salvà, 3), strategically located in Poble Sec. It has become one of the fetish spots of the city’s hipster crowd in record time. If you’re not one to dance through the night and prefer to just chill out on a drink, this is one of your best options.

Metro, which also opens every day of the week, is still one of the city’s classic clubs. However, if anything typifies current hedonism it is the monthly parties – held practically every week at some venue – which draw hundreds of souls eager to paint the town red. One of the most veteran such raves is Pop Air, which is usually hosted on the first Friday of the month in the Sala Tango (c/ Diputació, 94) and pulls the bears and followers of fur in the pop-lovers city. Similarly, once a month also sees the Sala Apolo (c/ Nou de la Rambla, 113) staging Somoslas for enthusiasts of burning calories to the rhythm of electronic music, and Under (c/ Tarragona, 141), featuring one of the youngest parties on the circuit. Then there is Tanga Party, which has a house section and an even larger area given over to enlightened rave-ups. An upshot of the meteoritic success of the Tanga (which is even celebrated in Madrid), this coming Sunday, 17 July, its creators will be launching La Piscini (en La Carpa Barcelona, Avenida Manuel Azaña 21-23), a new event which, over and above just music, has as its main attraction a giant tub to douse in. It is shaping up to be a great way to beat the heat.

Also on Sunday, the classic Churros con Chocolate, to be held in the Sala Apolo, is by far one of the most crowded parties. Just like La Ká (at the Sala Plataforma, c/ Nou de la Rambla, 145), it is admission-free, so we recommend you don’t delay your arrival too much at either venue if you want to avoid getting stuck in endless queues – don’t say we didn’t warn you! Check out our flights and come and discover them for yourself.

Text by Sergio del Amo for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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The Ria de Muros e Noia , the Port of Santiago de Compostela

The Ria de Muros e Noia is one of the Galicia region’s least built-up coastal areas, and also one of the most beautiful. Fishing boats landing delicious, shellfish, white sandy beaches with good surfing, all framed by green hills with a riot of vegetation –it’s definitely worth a visit. Here is a route you might consider.

Mt. Louro and the Xarfas Lagoon
Starting from the northern extreme of the estuary, between the Costa da Morte and Muros, you can stand atop Louro mountain, a 241-metre high granite block, and feast on the views of the Ria de Muros e Noia and the Lagoa de Xarfas with its fabulous Area Maior beach. The surrounding –hills, dunes, beach and the lagoon—boast a wealth of flora and fauna. There’s even an observatory for watching migratory birds.

Muros
Heading south we come to the town of Muros, founded in the 10th C. , and now featuring modest fishermen’s houses next to lordly mansions from bygone times. A stroll the town in the late afternoon can be timed to coincide with the arrival of the boats in the evening after a day’s fishing. The fish is put up for sale immediately on the dock, which is also an interesting spectacle to watch. And it means your shellfish dinner will be fresh and delicious. You won’t be disappointed by any of the restaurants under the arches near the water’s edge.

Just three kilometres away on the road to Noia is the Muíño de Mareas do Pozo do Cachón, a flour mill powered by the tides, built in the last quarter of the 19th C. There is also an interesting museum.

Noia
Noia is the biggest town in the estuary, and is only 36 km distant from Santiago. According to tradition, it was named for Noah, who is believed to have settled there after the Biblical flood. The city’s coat of arms shows an ark and a dove bearing an olive branch.

The old quarter features two churches built in the local version of the Gothic style: San Martiño (15th-16th C.) and Santa María a Nova (14th C.), the latter with a fascinating collection of about 500 tombstones. The 16th C. convent of San Francisco may also be visited, and the town is replete with stately mansions, such as the Casa da Xouba, the Pazo Dacosta (or Casa de Rivas), and the Pazo Forno do Rato. In the Obre district the pazos (mansions) of Pena de Ouro and Bergondo are worth a visit.

Some five kilometres from de Noia, across the Tambre, we come to the Ponte Nafonso, a bridge built during the 12th C. reign of King Alfonso IX of Leon and Galicia. It consists of a score of pointed arches lying on granite ashlars. The setting against the sea and mountains makes the sight of the bridge all the more spectacular

Castro de Baroña
On the south side of the estuary, next to the fishing village of Porto do Son, is the Castro de Baroña, an Iron Age Celtic settlement, with a score of round or oval stone cottages, once thatched, on a small peninsula. The archaeological remains and the wonderful landscape make it a worthwhile visit.

Corrubedo Dunes Nature Park
Between the Ria de Muros and Noia and that of Arousa, to the south, lies this lovely park with beaches, dunes, fresh- and salt-water lagoons, wetlands, and even megalithic remains. One of the main attractions is the “moving dune”, a restless pile of sand about a kilometre long , 200-300 meters wide, and 20 metres tall.

Some Further Recommendations
Though the quickest way to explore the Muros and Noia estuary is by the AC-550 coast road, we recommend side trips into the surrounding hills to get the best views.

For lodging there are numerous country inns and guest houses on both sides of the water, most of them in old and typical buildings. A particularly unusual place to stay is the hotel Pesquería del Tambre, in the Tambre river valley on the site of and old hydroelectric dam transformed into a nature hotel by the architect Antonio Palacios.

Check out our flights to Santiago de Compostela and head west to the sea!

Text: Isabel y Luis Comunicación

Pictures: Turismo de Galicia

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