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The Best Tapas in A Coruña

The Concurso de Tapas Picadillo is one of the most acclaimed in northern Spain. In A Coruña, the whole city gets involved, with a good many culinary establishments presenting their best creations. In some areas of the city, participants have come together in the form of group entries. Following is a rundown of some of the bites that surprised us most. As there were over 70 participants, we have made a selection of those located near the historic city centre. Although the contest is over, bear in mind you can still savour the tapas until 31 December, and you can look up this year’s winners on the competition website.

The Ciudad Vieja, Monte Alto, Zalaeta and Plaza de España Area

The earliest settlement in A Coruña is what is now known as Ciudad Vieja (Old City), an area which features monuments prior to the 19th century. This is the perfect place to stroll around, in the hushed atmosphere of its cobbled backstreets. The best place to start the route is hard by the San Carlos Gardens, at an establishment called A Boca do Lobo, where you can try the two special tapas that entered the competition. The first, creative offering is Galician octopus at 100°, seaweed coulis and liquid croquette with a pork crust. The other is the traditional roast Celtic pork dewlap and potatoes in their gravy. On the edge of the Ciudad Vieja lies the Plaza de María Pita, a complex of striking harmony arranged around a statue of a local heroine who fought against English corsairs. The square is surrounded by buildings with porticoes where some of the city’s main bars and restaurants are located. These include Breen’s Tavern, where you can enjoy a scrumptious cod-and-prawn brandade. Next door is El Ángel Café Bar (Plaza María Pita, 25) whose “Celtic pouches” were a surprising entry in the competition, while El Tequeño made a bold move with their creative, melgacho tapa based on small-spotted catshark tail.

The Barrera, La Marina, Galera, Estrella and Olmos Area

This is the nerve centre of A Coruña’s tapas bars, an area also known as La Pescadería, where the largest number of establishments is concentrated. The Calle Franxa, which runs from the Plaza de María Pita, is studded with seafood restaurants, Cuban and Turkish eateries, and a whole gamut of traditional tascas, beer gardens, jamonerías and wine cellars. The stretch leading from Ciudad Vieja to Los Cantones is another area crammed with bars and restaurants. However, the highest concentration of these is found along Calle Barrera, which boasts no less than thirteen contestants in the tapas competition. Like A Casa da Moura(Barrera, 9), with their delicious ovo da moura, or Alma Negra (Barrera, 13), with their creative mackerel taco, as well as a more traditional dish known as mar y montaña de tendones y callos de bacalao (“sea and mountains of tendons and cod tripe”). For us, however, pride of place goes to the stunning tartar de zamburiñas y aguacate sobre cama de brotes tiernos y brotes de col morada (“tartar of variegated scallop and avocado on a bed of tender bean sprouts and red cabbage shoots”), to be had at Tapa Negra. Calle Galera, which leads into Calle Olmos, is flanked by some of A Coruña’s classic tapas bars which have been handed down from one generation to the next.

The Alameda, Plaza de Galicia, Plaza de Vigo and Juan Flórez Area

Another large collection of tapas bars is grouped around the two aforementioned squares. This is the heart of the Ensanche quarter, an important shopping and business precinct, with a good many stores and offices, but also taverns and restaurants. It is part of the Picasso District, an area running from Juana de Vega to Plaza de Mina, named after the Malagan artist who lived and studied for a few years in this part of A Coruña. The streets Juan Flórez, Linares Rivas and Ramón de la Sagra also fall within its zone of influence.

We strolled through the area stretching from Los Cantones to the Parque de Santa Margarita; then along Juan Florez up to Avenida de Rubine, which leads to the Riazor football stadium. To start with, at Casa Martín, near the Plaza de Pontevedra, you should try the empanada de xoubas y grelos (pilchard and turnip top pie). Just one street away is El Huerto Los Cantones (Cantón Pequeño, 22) where, if you’re still feeling peckish – or you have just started out on the route – you will be well satisfied with the miniburguer de pez espada, tomate semiseco, espinaca fresca y salsa de almejas en pan de cereales (swordfish mini burger, semi-dried tomatoes, fresh spinach and clam sauce on wholemeal bread). Any better offer?

Don’t miss the chance to sink your teeth into the best, traditional-style, creative tapas currently to be had in A Coruña. Check out our flights here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Turismo A Coruña, Concurso de Tapas Picadillo

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Kinderland The Children’s Island

Mainau Island is a captivating green island carpeted with flowers emerging from the blue waters of Lake Constance, just an hour and a half away from Stuttgart. Standout features include a 45-hectare Mediterranean-style garden commissioned by Count Lennart Bernadotte who was related to the Swedish royal family. This gardening artwork is now managed by his children.

Mainau Children’s Land

Mainau Island (also known as the Island of Flowers) has some admirable features and not only those in its lush botanical gardens, with plants from all over the world. Mainau-Kinderland (Mainau Children’s Land) and Germany’s largest Butterfly House draw families from across the globe. Over two million people a year are estimated to visit here. The best thing about this huge children’s park is that it is suitable for children from the age of two years on, and it opens from spring to autumn.

But, what most rivets the little ones’ attention – and grown ups, too, we have to admit – is the Dwarf Village. This attraction is aimed at children between the ages of two and four. It has cave-shaped huts, a wooden train and an area for water games, which operates permanently. The Village is located between the Farm and the Lake and also features a stable for pony riding. There are also dwarf donkeys and dogs – loads of dogs, as virtually all the breeds are represented here. The Farm, which also has a garden, is full of rabbits running about, while cows and goats graze to their heart’s content. And, needless to say, there has to be a chicken run, too, with both roosters and hens crowing away. What child doesn’t like a farm?

One of the major attractions is the Zoo, where children are allowed to pet lots of animals. Perhaps the best part, though, is the Butterfly House, which is open all year around. Stretching across an area of 1,000 m², it is landscaped to resemble a tropical paradise. Strolling among the gurgling waterfalls, pond-straddling bridges and a grotto, visitors can luxuriate in the sight of hundreds of colours and rare butterflies from about 80 species flying freely and feeding, carrying out their mating dances and laying eggs. If you keep still for a while, you might be lucky enough to have one settle on you. Another highlight is the new Insect Garden where you can glean interesting facts about wild bees, honey bees and apiculture in general.

Caution! A Water World

The area which has been most successful of late is the Wasserwelt (Water World). It is an ideal precinct for children to play to their heart’s content in a safe environment. It is actually a game-show-like circuit with a set of small, attached or interconnected houses and towers where children are challenged to overcome hurdles and move from one house to the next without touching the ground. To this end, they avail themselves of ropes and climbing walkways. This water world also has large areas with sand built in the form of mud pools. Here, children can play unfettered – they can build, bake, discover and investigate. Alongside this area is a pathway where you can walk barefoot, made of materials which are pleasant to the touch, purposely devised for adults who are loathe to get splashed while accompanying their kids.

Lake Constance

Lake Constance, nicknamed the Schwäbische Meer (Swabian Sea), is the third largest lake in Europe and straddles three countries – Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Be sure to take advantage of your trip to Mainau Kinderland to tour this marvellous landscape. Formed by the Rhine glacier during the last Ice Age and currently fed by the river itself, this enormous lake is 63 km long by 14 km wide and has a maximum depth of 250 metres. The region is characterised by meadows and vineyards, market gardens and dams, beaches and Alpine foothills. A motley region which blossoms into its full beauty in summer, just when the tourists flock here. Some of the most popular activities here are swimming in the lake and camping on some of its shores. In spring it is carpeted with flowers and in autumn there is new wine, fewer people and magnificent visibility when the warm Föhn blows.

Don’t pass up the chance to treat your children to this cultural extravaganza. The area also features countless Baroque churches, Benedictine abbeys, Stone Age dwellings, Roman forts, medieval castles and even zeppelins. You just can’t get bored. Come on – prepare your children for the grand surprise. Check out our flights here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Germany Travel

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Ferrol, a Fortified Jewel Near La Coruña

One legend has it that the Breton saint St. Ferreol founded the city after landing there in a boat escorted by a choir of seven mermaids, but scholars still cannot agree on the origin of the name the city has been called since Medieval times.

History

The first people to settle in the area were Celts. And there is evidence of Phoenician and ancient Greek settlements, too. When the Romans conquered Hispania in the first century BC, a fishing village stood on the site of today’s city. Soon the locals began exporting preserved fish to the rest of the Roman Empire. The name “Ferrol” first appeared in church records in the year 1087, referring to a donation made by villagers to the nearby monastery of San Martín de Jubia.

 

From La Coruña

Ferrol has easy access to La Coruña, only 40 minutes’ distant --via a very scenic stretch of the AP-9 motorway, crossing the Eume river and others-- and to other towns in northern Galicia such as Villalba, Naró, and Ortigueira. You’ll see hills and extensive green meadowland crisscrossed by streamlets, along with panoramic views of the sea. You may wish to stop along the way at the Parque Natural Fragas do Eume, where you can admire Europe’s best-conserved Atlantic coastal woodlands, some 9,000 hectares of virgin forest. The triangular park, lying between the towns of As Pontes, Pontedeume and Monfero, will show you that “enchanted forest” isn’t just a figure of speech –you will expect to see elves and wood sprites frolicking amongst the ferns and lichens, and the springs and waterfalls, all under the leafy canopy of ash, alder, oak, and poplar trees, which the sun’s rays have difficulty penetrating in some spots. You might also visit the equally enchanting  Caaveiro monastery, dating from the year 934, and which overlooks the forest.

 

A Stroll through the Magdalena District

Ferrol’s urban essence is concentrated in the old quarter, the Barrio de la Magdalena, a commercial and entertainment district featuring such Belle Époque jewels as the 1892 Jofre Theatre, the Magdalena Market, the 1923 fish market building called “La Pescadería”, the Casino Ferrolano (also erected in 1923), the Hotel Suizo (1916), and the Banco Hispano-Antigua Fonda Suiza (1909-1910). The rationalist, geometrically laid out district resembles Barcelona’s Ensanche, and at its extremes lie two broad squares, the Plaza de Amboage or, more properly, del Marqués de Amboage, and the Plaza de Armas). There are numerous 18th C. and 19th C. homes with fancy wrought-iron balcony railings on stone corbels and white, wood-framed glass-enclosed balconies, as well and modernist buildings from the early 20th C. The whole neighbourhood was designated as a protected cultural treasure in 1983. The main shopping streets are Real, Magdalena, Igrexa, Dolores, Galiano, and María. For tapas, drinks, and sit-down meals the calle del Sol is the place to go.

 

A Fortified City

Well worth visiting are the fortifications, whose construction began in the reign of Phillip II (b. 1527 d. 1598) that protected the city against attacks from the sea, including the  San Felipe Castle, and the Arsenal, a unique building now housing the Naval Museum.  It connects to the Magdalena neighbourhood via the ornate, neo-classical 1765 gateway known as the Porta do Dique.

 

The Spanish Armada

Ferrol has an important naval base and large military and civilian shipyards. Since the 15th it has been a key military installation, particularly during the heyday of the Spanish Empire, the first on which “the sun never set” –the Spanish Armada has both the discovery of America and the first circumnavigation of the world to its credit. Sea dogs, history buffs, and landscape lovers alike will find much to rave about in Ferrol. Perhaps you should book a flight to La Coruña with Vueling a take a closer look? Check out or flights here.

 

Report by Isabel y Luis Comunicación

Pictures by Juan Balsa, Diputación de A Coruña y Concello de Ferrol

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Birmingham and the Birth of Heavy Metal

Birmingham has long been characterised by its strong musical drive. In the sixties, it already had 600 pop and rock bands. Musically speaking, the Birmingham scene stood out for its fusion. Indeed, almost all the musicians in those groups also played in parallel bands. Even soloists eschewed being pigeon-holed and poured out a blend of styles in their live shows. The fact is that musical amalgamations have been part of the city’s DNA since the 18th century, when street musicians sounded out practically all the styles to be had. Diversity and the culture of experimentation have led Birmingham to engender several musical styles. In the sixties, it was the Spencer Davis Group super band that provided the finishing touches to British rhythm and blues through a combination of folk, jazz, blues and soul. Although Pink Floyd were the initiators, English psychodelics was consolidated in Birmingham by The Move. But, there is one style that became a mass, global phenomenon – heavy metal – which germinated in the early seventies and was captained by Black Sabbath.

Macho Rock

Heavy metal has always been regarded as the epitome of hard rock. Not for nothing did it emerge as a far more extreme form of rock than anything that went before it. But, why in Birmingham and not in London? For the simple reason that it emerged in the centre of the country where trade, information and trends were continually converging. In effect, this enclave lay halfway between the country’s two major musical poles. One was London, with its white, hard-blues bands, many of whom had conquered America in the previous years. The other, Liverpool, a veritable nursery of melodic pop. Aside from being a nexus between the two, Birmingham contributed its grain of sand by incorporating jazz as a condiment. But, that was not all – darkness, and the repetitive, mechanical component associated with a city smothered in factories since the Industrial Revolution, proved to be more than latent. All these components came together in the early records of Black Sabbath – “Black Sabbath” (1970) and “Paranoid” (1972). While the former still rested on the solid springboard of unmitigated blues, the latter heralded the birth of a new style, with a far more polished sound, suited to a wider audience. The disc topped the charts in the UK, and reached number 8 in the USA. That recording hit a milestone beyond the reach of most, and its influence was decisive in the birth of punk (Sex Pistols), post-punk (Joy Division), stoner rock  (Kyuss), grunge (Nirvana, Soundgarden, Mudhoney, Alice in Chains), and even rap (Ice-T, Cypress Hill).

The Father of the Child

Controversy is rife when it comes to asserting the paternity of the genre. There are two schools of thought – those who believe Led Zeppelin to be the pioneering band, and those who hold it to be the combo led by Ozzy Osbourne. At any rate, gestation clearly occurred in Birmingham and a large number of members of both groups hail from this city. All the members of Black Sabbath were nurtured on the local scene. Half of Led Zeppelin, too, as John Bohnam (drums) and Robert Plant (vocals) are local boys, having previously played in Band of Joy.

Conquering the World

Heavy metal managed to spread across the planet thanks to another Birmingham band – Judas Priest. Led by Rob Halford, they ratcheted the style up another notch, particularly with the release of “Stained Class” (1978), a disc that spearheaded what was known as the “new wave of British heavy metal”, which involved ditching the blues rock influence for good and focusing on other aspects of sound, such as power and speed. Their legacy sprouted ramifications in the form of speed metal, trash metal, death metal and black metal, and essential bands like Godflesh and Napalm Death. Their influence, however, was not only musical but also aesthetic, as it was they who ushered in prototypal heavy metal attire, based on leather, studs and the biker look.

A Heavy DNA Beyond Heavy

Many artificers of heavy metal music have sprung from the Birmingham scene, notably Blaze Bayley, Iron Maiden’s vocalist from 1994 to 1999. There are also those whose music, while not attributable to this genre, certainly influenced it in some way. Some of the most illustrious examples are Nick Mason, Pink Floyd’s drummer; Jeff Lynne, composer and singer with Electric Light Orchestra; Phil Lynott, the leader of Thin Lizzy – who was christened at St Edwards Church in Selly Park, very near Birmingham – and Marin Barre, the guitarist for Jethro Tull.

Birmingham’s musical spirit remains intact. Two scenes can currently be identified, both in rock and electronic. The city also boasts some of the most exciting festivals in the West Midlands, such as the Moseley Folk Festival, held in September.

Heavy metal never dies! Why wait any longer to discover the birthplace of this genre? Check out our flights here.

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Cindy Frey, Rowan Peter

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