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Experience the Wild

Cantabria’s mining past remains alive in the 750 hectares of reddish landscape which is home to the Cabárceno Nature Park. Situated just 15 kilometres from Santander, its proximity is inversely proportional to the feeling of being in a wholly different part of the planet. Here, around one hundred animal species from the five continents roam in semi-freedom, including African elephants, gorillas, the ankole-watusi, the addax, llamas and sea lions.

The open-air tracts of land are spacious and immensely beautiful. The flora lives out its natural cycle during the four annual seasons, so you see a different park in the spring, summer, autumn and winter. The structures left behind from the area’s mining past have been re-used to appoint the various enclosures in Cabárceno. Animals are kept on land which resembles their natural habitat as closely as possible, as here the terrain is accommodating. A number of lookouts bring home the immensity of the panoramic landscape and allow visitors to spot herds of Somali asses, water buffalo, Grevi zebra and ostriches. The karst relief characterised by water’s fickle erosive force makes for fascinating observation and enhances the act of animal spotting.

Nature is allowed to run its course in the park. There are fights between members of the same species, the rutting season unfolds and dominant males abound. Man only intervenes in the event of illness, wounds, a life-threatening situation for some specimen and to feed the animals. That is when the park provides its Wildlife Visit. From 10 in the morning to 5 in the afternoon, a single vehicle seating 4 occupants drives through various areas inhabited by rhino, bears and giraffes. The tour costs €400, which includes a brunch in the park restaurant. Escorted by a ranger, visitors can get to see certain animals close up, as well as touch and feed them. This contact enables them to learn the traits and curiosities of each animal or species.

That is how you discover the three elegant giraffes that come running up to you because they see you arriving with a bag of carrots. All three are male and they get along well precisely because there are no females. Or you learn the amazing story of Jums, a 39-year-old African elephant that came from England and recognised one of its offspring that had been living in Cabárceno.

During the Wildlife Visit, guests are told about the rituals and training sessions conducted with some of the animals to get them accustomed to the presence of people for the sole purpose of enabling a vet to treat a wound or give them a medical check-up whenever necessary. This is a difficult task as wild animals retain their survival instinct and are thus wary of people, but it is gratifying to see how the staff’s daily work and their affection for the animals can work a miracle, as can an apple or a carrot!

The animals’ daily routine is not affected by the fortunate participants in the Wildlife Visit – book ahead, as there is a waiting list – and regular feeding times are strictly adhered to. The only enclosure where visitors are not allowed to get out of the car is that of the brown bears. However, a group of bears can be comfortably observed munching on a piece of bread or chicken through the car window just a few metres away. There are around 70 specimens in a 35-hectare space, which gives you some idea of how big the park is.

The Cabárceno Nature Park is dotted with natural lakes, and the 14 resident elephants relish bathing in waters up to 8 metres deep. The hippo enclosure here, rumoured to be the best in the world, is sited in the Lago Sexta, and a cableway is slated to run above this lake as of March 2016.

A one-day admission ticket to the Cabárceno Nature Park costs €25, and €15 for small children. However, we recommend you check out all the various types of admission, as there are discounts for families and “friends of Cabárceno”. Your ticket allows you to drive around the 20 kilometres of tracks in your own vehicle through all the areas. But, you are urged to observe the speed limit and safety precautions. Unfortunately, this unaccompanied drive-through does not allow you to touch or feed the animals; firstly, for safety reasons, as you will not be escorted by a ranger to guide you and, secondly, as each species has a specific diet at regular hours. A map is given to visitors at the entrance – the routes are clearly marked and you can download a mobile app which provides information on what you are seeing at all times. Park facilities include picnic areas for you to have a packed lunch at your leisure, and there are also cafés, restaurants and gift shops. Your ticket permits you to leave the park and re-enter later on. You are also allowed to make the tour in a camper van.

Your day trip will fly past as you observe the antics of fallow deer, red deer, gorillas, camels, displays of birds of prey and their types of flight, and sea lions cavorting about. (Don’t let them catch you calling them seals with ears – they don’t take kindly to being confused!) Whatever your age; if you like animals, this is where you will have a whale of a time!

Make haste to discover all this wildlife. Check out our flights to Santander here.

 

Text and images by Planeta Dunia

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A Route through the Périgord Vert

The Périgord, a former French province distributed across the departments of the Dordogne and Lot-et-Garonne, in the region of Nouvelle-Aquitaine, is divided into four sub-districts named after the dominant colour in the area. Thus, the Périgord Pourpre (Purple) is so called on account of the colour of its wine; the Périgord Noir (Black), named for its truffles and the dark woodlands there; the Périgord Blanc (White), for the limestone prevalent in the soil, and the Périgord Vert for the intense green of its meadows and oak forests.

The Périgord Vert, the northernmost of the four, has its capital in the commune of Nontron where for centuries the main activities are trades relating to leather and the art of table dressing. This town is the best spot from which to strike out on a route through the lush meadows of France as it traverses an amazing variety of landscapes belonging to the Périgord-Limousin Regional Nature Park. You won’t be at a loss for things to do in the Périgord Vert as it offers a host of activities, including hiking routes or tours of oil mills and fortified castles.

Another itinerary that comes highly recommended is the well-known Richard the Lionheart Route which stretches for over 180 kilometres and covers 19 areas open to the public. The route is signposted on both sides of the main road by a lion crowned with a heart pierced by an arrow, in remembrance of Richard the Lionheart’s sad end. Dotted along the whole route are vestiges of the battles and power struggles among the Dukes of Aquitaine, sparked by marriage agreements, which also involved the Kings of England and the French monarchs.

Touring the Périgord Vert

Apart from soaking up nature in the Périgord Vert, it is worth visiting the charming villages in this sub-district of France, notably Brantôme, famous for its Abbey and the Church of Saint-Pierre, which boasts the oldest belfry in France, dating from the Visigoth period. Brantôme is sited on the banks of the river Dronne, which runs along gentle meanders that set up a beautiful picture postcard scenery known as the “Venice of the Périgord”. Setting out from the abbey, by crossing the unusual, 16th-century right-angled bridge, you get to the monks’ garden and the heart of the town, featuring numerous vestiges from the 16th, 17th and 18th century. However, the best guarded secret of Brantôme are its troglodytic caves, where Benedictine monks once sought refuge. A few kilometres from Brantôme along the river Dronne lies the village of Bourdeilles, a commune with two landmark buildings – a medieval fortress and a Renaissance building housing an interesting collection of 15th- and 16th-century Spanish furniture.

Book your Vueling to Bordeaux and delight in the fantastic scenery of the Pèrigord Vert, a two-hour ride away.

Text by Tus Destinos

 

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10 Fairy tale Villages in Asturias

Asturias has numerous villages and hamlets which are the stuff of dreams. Indeed, they have long inspired fantastic tales – and continue to do so – a blend of reality, dreams and a thousand wonders. Some cling to a hillside; others are set in valleys, on a riverbank or next to a dam, looking out over both the sea and the mountains. Still others are clustered at the foot of lofty peaks, dotted with dozens of hórreos and paneras,or bathed by the intense, huge breakers of the Cantabrian Sea.

These villages make up an inspirational Asturias which beckons us to experience the honeyed, full-bodied thrill of the landscape and its inhabitants, in a land that brings out the artistic, somewhat bohemian streak in people and makes us explorers of space and time.

Tanes – the Secrets of Water

Once upon a time there was a village that adapted its appearance and lifestyle to the presence of a dam, without in any way shedding its beauty and primeval essence. There was once a village that gave its name to a dam, and the dam gave water and life to the whole central region of Asturias – a village which preserves its charm intact and which goes by the name of Tanes.

Tanes lies in the municipality of Caso, in the east central section of Asturias, and is part of the Biosphere Reserve Network. This natural habitat breathes tranquility, enhanced by the friendliness of its people.

Wildlife, indigenous flora, the power of its reservoir and the murmuring river Nalón make Tanes a storied, legendary place. And, as befits this magical enclave, the village outskirts are home to the collegiate church of Santa María la Real. As if clinging to the shores of the dam, the slender silhouette of this church towers in all its Renaissance splendour over the waters which mirror all the greenery of Tanes.

Villar de Gallegos, with Coal in its Entrails

In Asturias, stories are sometimes written in black and green, the colour of its coal and forests. Indeed, some fairy-tale villages lie in the mining heart of Asturias’ Montaña Central. One such example is Villar de Gallegos, in the municipality of Mieres.

This authentic hamlet, where rural life seems to stand still, is set against a mountain backdrop and is noteworthy for its scenic and geological value, as well as for its outlying areas, with itineraries which retrace the erstwhile activity of the coal and mercury mines.

The surrounding heights provide exceptional viewpoints over the Sierra del Aramo, Las Ubiñas-La Mesa Nature Reserve, the Pajares area and the Cordal de La Carisa – part of the Nature Reserve Network – and, on clear days, the Picos de Europa National Park as well.

Bandujo – the Sleepy Hamlet

Set between mountains and valleys in central Asturias, as if by magic the Middle Ages comes out to meet you at the village of Bandujo, one of the best preserved medieval precincts in the Asturian countryside.

A lot of history and numerous passing travellers have set eyes on its walls and stones, on the Tuñón Tower and the Church of Santa María. Once a hub of intense activity for centuries, it is now suddenly silenced, gripped by an eternal hush and an all-embracing peace.

Bandujo is now seemingly asleep in an endless medieval slumber. This is the feeling that washes over you when you get to the village and observe it, whether close-up or from afar. Set within a huge green frame, unique in Asturias, it wears its historical background in total calm.

Pumares – Water, Slate and Stone

In the middle of a tract of hydraulic devices, fire and iron, the greenest footpaths and the highest waterfall in Asturias, you suddenly catch sight of it, as if snatched from some fantasy ornament – the village of Pumares, in Santa Eulalia de Oscos.

Pumares is like a dream of stone, black slate and water. It is a corner where the river gurgles sweetly and the starting point of the route to the famous, all-powerful Seimeira waterfall.

You will come to grips with the land of ferreiros (blacksmiths) and forests, of water mills, fulling mills, fulling hammers and iron craftsmen, in a hushed, multi-coloured natural setting.

Tuña – the Spirit of General Riego Lives On

Once upon a time all the gold from western Asturias passed through a village in the municipality of Tineo. It was mined by the Romans from the entrails of Asturias to sustain one of the greatest empires of ancient times.

There was once a village in Tineo which gifted history and humanity with stalwart fighters for social justice like General Riego.

The whole of Tuña is now seemingly imbued with the spirit of General Riego. You can still see the house where he was born, as well as a bust and the odd mural which honour his memory.

Tuña will take you back in time, led by its Roman bridge and palaces, its tranquility and its friendly people.

Viavélez – Gentle Sailing in a Cantabrian Harbour

Wind and brackish waters, waves and foam, a jetty and a lighthouse, a small harbour that seems to leap out of a fairy-tale. This is Viavélez, one of the most secluded and surprising spots on the west coast of Asturias, situated in the municipality of El Franco.

A safe haven for seamen and fishermen, sea lovers, writers and artists, seafood connoisseurs, merchants, travellers and pilgrims, Viavélez is a veritable gift of nature.

Whether the sea is calm or rough, the sight of Viavélez is always stunning.

Riodeporcos – Far From the Daily Grind

What a great privilege it is to arrive in Riodeporcos! There where the Navia flows into a sort of meander and its sheet of water glistens in the sun lies Riodeporcos, by way of some divine creation.

The footbridge linking this hamlet in Ibias to the rest of the world provides a sort of bygone, romantic way of accessing the hamlet which – be warned – you cannot get to by car.

Far from the daily grind and swathed in nature, a stopover in Riodeporcos will make any notion of stress smack of urban legend.

Espinaréu – Finding the Key to the Hórreo

Can you imagine a spot which is the kingdom of hórreos, those granaries built on stilts? That place is not just in your imagination, it actually exists. It lies in Asturias and is a hamlet called Espinaredo or Espinaréu, in the municipality of Piloña.

You will be amazed by the approach to Espinaréu – and not just because of the profusion of hórreos and paneras (fulling mills) – but because they look bright and shiny and still operate as they have done for centuries, intimately linked to the harvest and, therefore, to human survival.

Espinaréu is a homely village, traversed by the river of the same name, where the hórreos have a life of their own with their variegated ornamentation and wood carvings, some of them polychromed. It is like travelling to an ethnographic paradise where the mark of time is broad and intense.

Bulnes, Where the Picos de Europa Come to Embrace You

You can get to Bulnes either along a highland canal or by funicular railway. On landing at an altitude of a thousand metres, dwarfed by summits that come to embrace you, your reaction is one of amazement and you feel you have just crossed a frontier.

A frontier which thousands of mountaineers and rock climbers have crossed for over a century of exploration, adventure and effort. A frontier which hundreds of inhabitants of the Picos de Europa have traversed all their lives, in a supreme exercise of survival in raw nature.

This is Bulnes, in the heart of the Central Massif of the Picos de Europa, in the municipality of Cabrales. Here you will come across idyllic scenery, the unique Cabrales cheese, an upper quarter with panoramic views and a way of life that is dying out. Living testimony to the harshness of this lifestyle in former times is evinced in the austere – formerly roofed – cemetery at the entrance to the village.

Gobiendes – the Best Sea and Mountain Viewpoint from the pre-Romanesque

How about a vantage point looking out over the sea from a pre-Romanesque church? Gobiendes regales you with this experience in its pre-Romanesque Church of Santiago. Sited atop a cliff overlooking the sea, Gobiendes faces the Cantabrian on one side and, on the other, Mount Sueve, the first mountain which seamen catch sight of when approaching the Asturian coastline.

With its Palace and its meticulously maintained houses, Gobiendes, in the municipality of Colunga, is a peaceful backwater where you can feel the unique combination of sea breeze and mountain wind.

What’s more, you are smack in the middle of the Coastal Road To Santiago, the oldest existing approach route to the Cathedral of San Salvador!

Text and images by Turismo de Asturias

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Destination: Gambia. The Gateway to Africa

By Clara Arnedo

I’ve just got back from Gambia and some of the sights still linger in my mind: the rainbow that appears onTanji beach every day at sunset, when fishing boats laden with fish come back to the port, and the whole town takes part in collecting and selling the fresh fish. These are just a few of the memories that this small but perfect country leaves with you, to help you get an idea of what Africa is really like. Now Vueling makes it easier for us to travel to the Gambia, with a new route connecting Barcelona and Banjul, the capital of the country.

The journey starts in the capital, Banjul, a city that is small and pleasant. And so is the country, with a population of 1.6 million. Banjul is a relatively safe and peaceful city, where it is worth exploring the crowded colourful markets selling all kinds of wares. The most outstanding is Albert Market, a large typically African market mainly selling fruit, vegetables and fish. When sellers and customers see us they are reluctant at first and quickly avoid our cameras. But after a while they gradually become more open and available. All they need is a little time.

Another attraction in the city is Arch 22, in honour of the president, the bodyguard of the former president, who took his position on 22 June 1994. Since then he has been the great protagonist of the Gambia: we see Yahya Jammeh everywhere – on posters stuck on walls and lampposts in every village and every town.

But the Gambia is especially a country with a coast that opens out to the Atlantic Ocean; a wedge-shaped country that cuts into Senegal and is divided in two by the river that gives the country its name – the Gambia.

First we go to the coast to discover the long, fine sand beaches of Banjul. There are hotels on the seafront, affording a spectacular view of the ocean. But the most memorable fishing scene has got to be Tanji, where you can find a flurry of colours and life every evening on the shore when the fish is brought in. It seems like chaos but there is actually an internal organisation and hierarchy, and laws that enable the same spectacle to happen every day at sunset. The men are strong and muscular and are in charge of carrying tons of fish from the boats to the beach, balancing the baskets on their heads. Once they are on the shore, the women collect the treasure to wash it and prepare it to be sold… young men run further to look for spots to set up and sell the fish. The children often follow, running fast at their heels, hoping to catch a bit of fish that might fall on the way. This makeshift fish market on the sand is the tip of the iceberg of this small country that is bursting with life. In the morning, in that same spot, a colourful fruit and vegetable market materialises, dominated by women buying and selling food. One of these women is Ida Cham Njai, a beautiful and energetic chef who offers the unique experience of accompanying her to shop in the market, and then spending a pleasant day cooking local produce with her at her home. The gastronomy and local produce are the best ways to learn a bit more about this pleasant destination.

A British redoubt in colonial times, it is now one of the smallest countries in West Africa. It also has one of the highest birth rates. The Gambia is full of children, and mothers who wrap them to their hips: it is a beautiful and typical scene of the country. The rest of the country is made up of the jungle, nature and many animals: monkeys, birds and even hippos. The further upstream you go, the wilder nature is, and the more rural the population is… it is a wild adventure to go up the river towards the town of Georgetown, because there are not many places for accommodation. Tourism is not widely developed in the Gambia, and that is part of its charm. In any case, you don’t have to travel very far from Banjul to discover the wild. NearSerrekunda, the largest and busiest city in the country, we find Bijilo National Park, or Monkey Park, which includes easy paths to walk around. In this area you can also visit a crocodile pond, and you can even touch one of the crocodiles! This is the other side of the Gambia, with its river and mangrove swamps; the more authentic Gambia, one of the least developed countries on earth, with a life expectancy of 54 years and a literacy rate of 40%.

But this is not the end of the journey, and the Gambia, despite being a small country, still has a few surprises in store for us. Can you imagine remote African villages invaded by Street Art and graffiti? Well, this is what you can find in the Gambia. Specifically in Bafuloto and Makumbaya – two names that are hard to remember, two villages with small and simple houses, streets made of sand and dirt, where children play under the sun. And on the walls of these huts is where the Wide Open Walls movement found one of its favourite canvases. Pictures that depict nature, with animals from the area and other motifs that fill these places with colour.

A great way of discovering the Gambia from different perspective. Another way of penetrating Africa through this small gateway.

By Clara Arnedo

 

Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!

 

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