10 tips for foodies in Copenhagen
By Isabel Loscertales from Gastronomistas
Small, pretty and laid-back, the Danish capital is the perfect destination to enjoy a culinary break. Noma, voted best restaurant in the world three years in a row (2010-2012) and with two Michelin stars, put the city on the international gourmet map and revolutionised the country's cuisine. But there's more foodie heaven beyond Noma. Copenhagen is proud of its desire to update tradition, its love for all things organic, its 'hygge' spirit (pretty, cosy ambience), its passion for design, its sun terraces... Between mouthfuls, make sure not to miss a stroll along Strøget shopping street, the colourful Nyhavn canal or the Tivoli Gardens; take a selfie with the Little Mermaid; explore the liveliest neighbourhoods: Vesterbro and Nørrebro; or wander around the independent area of Christiania - the centre of counter-culture. Go on foot or, like the locals, ride a bike. Here are ten tasty stop-offs for you:
1. New Danish cuisine
If you have plenty to spend, make sure you try and book for Noma online (Strandgade, 93). The chef, René Redzepi, was a pioneer in updating traditional Danish cuisine and recovering local ingredients with a special penchant for all things organic, natural and raw (wild herbs, etc.). He signed the New Kitchen Manifesto in 2004 (à la Lars von Trier) with other chefs which stirred up some trouble. If you do not fancy spending 1600 kroner (around €193) for the set menu (wine not included), you can always have a nosy at the old warehouse where it is located, on the Christianshavn wharf. If it's full, try the two starred Geranium run by Rasmus Kofoed (Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8º)
If you're on a tighter budget, we recommend Höst (Nørre Farimagsgade, 41), a cosy restaurant that won the best design in the world award at the Restaurant & Bar Design Awards 2013. A spot-on combination of industrial interior design (warehouse like) and rural touches (some details evoking a farmhouse), and a lively-cum-intimate ambience are the two main features here whose raison d'être comes from these contrasts. For example, the ceiling is made from (recycled) wood and the floor is concrete. Spread over two floors and several rooms, we recommend ordering the set menu (actually, the rest of the menu is fairly short). It comes in at 295 kroner (around €35, wine not included) and offers two dishes and dessert, as well as several surprise amuse-bouches. Try the trout with black chanterelles, cauliflower (uncooked slices), mushroom jus and lots of fresh herbs as a starter; beef shank with mashed potato, carpaccio, beetroot and Madagascar pepper sauce for your main; and Jerusalem artichoke ice cream with an apple, muesli, meringue, sautéed Jerusalem artichoke slices and crunchy caramel crumble. Surprising delicious mixes.
2. Jaeggerborgade Street, as 'in' as it gets
In the multicultural neighbourhood of Nørrebro is the city's hipster-filled street with rows of fantastic spots. In addition to vintage clothes stores, second hand book shops, décor and design boutiques, and art and record shops, there are a few essential foodie outlets. Coffee Collection, at number 10, serves the best coffee in the city thanks to skilled baristas and fair trade coffee. An aromatic spot indeed! The premises itself are very interesting, breaking down traditional barriers meaning you'll find a young guy making coffee as if he were in his own kitchen, with no bar and a huge coffee grinder next to him. The well-respected chef Christian Puglisi (ex-Noma and elBulli) has two highly recommended spots facing one another: Relae (no. 41), with a Michelin star and serving two set menus (one for meat eaters, one for vegetarians) for around €46 not including wine, and Manfreds & Vin (no.40), specialising in natural wines and tapas. In addition, there's the artisan chocolate shop Ro Chokolade (no. 25), the handmade sweets at Karamelleriet by Ipsen /Vigel (no. 36) and the organic bakery Meyers Bageri (no. 9), run by Claus Meyer (co-owner of Noma alongside Rene).
3. Meatpacking District: Industrial cool
The other fashionable neighbourhood is Vesterbro that hides a converted industrial area home to a gourmet oasis for hipsters in pure New York style (nor for nothing does it share the same name as the NYC district). The funny thing is that in Copenhagen, the area is still home to real meatpacking businesses. In addition to the very popular Kødbyens Fiskebar (Flæsketorvet, 100), an industrial premises serving seafood, and the huge Italian terrace Mother, inviting you to spend hours in the sun (Høkerboderne, 9-15), there is the organic BioMio (Halmtorvet, 19). Located in a former Bosch appliance workshop that still has the neon lights on the front, it houses a large room with communal wooden tables and an open kitchen. The menu offers organic international cuisine with dishes to share (such as green beans with celeriac or salmon rillettes), a couple of woks, half a dozen "knife and fork" dishes (the kamut wheat risotto is excellent) and several natural options. Prices average around €35.
4. Hipster bars for hipster city
Still in Vesterbro (although beyond the Meatpacking District), there is a couple of bars (amongst others) for taking a break. On the one hand, the Cafe Granola (Vaernedamsvej, 5) has coffees, juices, milkshakes, breakfasts, sandwiches and cocktails in a relaxed atmosphere playing Motown in the background. On the other, the modern anti-design Bang & Jensen (Istedgade, 130). Famous for its wall with a painting of a sailor re-done in different artistic styles, cool youngsters come here for a quick bit or cocktail at the rickety tables and chairs.
5. La Glace: The most famous cake shop
Copenhagen's oldest cake shop (Conditori) is also famous for being Hans Christian Andersen's favourite. Enjoy its handmade cakes in a classically charming ambience. Its speciality, The Sports Cake, was create in 1891 for the play 'Sports Man' and is made from nougat, whipped cream and caramelised choux pastry. A recommended calorie-filled temptation. Skoubogade, 3.
6. The smørrebrød or open sandwich
It is one of the best known Danish dishes and ideal for a reasonably priced informal meal (Copenhagen is not exactly known for being a cheap city). It comprises a slice of bread and butter topped with different ingredients: smoked fish such as salmon or kipper, cold cuts, pâtés, eggs... alongside some type of pickle or extra something (capers, onion, dressing...). It can be enjoyed at traditional spots such as the Ida Davidsen (Store Kongensgade, 70) or the always busy Schønnemann (Hauser Plads, 16). Some chefs have even come up with updated versions, adding a more foodie touch. This is true for Adam Aaman who, after his success in Copenhagen (Øster Farimagsgade,10), has opened an Aamanns branch in New York.
7. Shooping: Torvehallerne & Royal Copenhguen
Luxury-loving palates can take away a gastronomic souvenir from the modern Torvehallerne market, in Israel Plads square (currently all upside down due to construction work). Encased in glass and split into two structures, the market offers all kinds of gourmet spots and small stands where you can grab a taste of something interesting. If you prefer a 'solid' souvenir, the artisan pottery from Royal Copenhaguen is renowned (the window displays are well worth a look). Amagertorv, 6.
8. Chic wineries
Two popular spots to have a wine in Copenhagen, in addition to the aforementioned Manfreds & Vin. On the one hand, Atelier September (Gothersgade, 30) is a charming former antique shop turned into a café and shop. You can try a natural wine in a cosy atmosphere with a stimulating mix of furniture and artistic original posters (when we were there, we saw a giant Tàpies one), all for sale. It also serves breakfasts and light meals. On the other, Bibendum (Nansensgade, 45) is a pretty intimate French-inspired spot that takes its name from Michelin's dog. As well as choosing from its selection of international wines by the bottle or glass, the tapas come highly recommended.
9. Carlsberg lager
No matter how much they craft their wine lists, the truth is Denmark does not have great wines. So what they do is make beer. Larger fans have a must-see in the city: the Carlsberg Brewery (two entrances: Gamle Carlsberg Vej, 11 or Bryggerhesten, 1), one of the most famous in the world. They offer guided tours lasting around 90 minutes that of course include a tasting. We also tried another highly aromatic full-bodied Danish beer, Nørrebro Bryghus, made in a small brewery. It is easy to find in different bars and restaurants although it also has its own place (Ryesgade, 3).
10. At the epicentre: Andersen Hotel
This new boutique hotel has three things we love: design, comfort and location. Tucked behind the Tivoli Gardens and next to the trendy Meatpacking District, in the heart of Vesterbro, it is an ideal starting point for exploring different areas in the city. Check if they have any bikes available if you fancy travelling on two wheels. Before heading out, take your time with the tasty hearty breakfast with endless combinations for a personal yoghurt flavour, different organic choices and delicious croissants. From 925 kroner (around €111) per night for a double room. Helgolandsgade, 12.
So you feel like visiting Copenhagen, do you? Book your flights here!
more infoTenerife, Cadiz, Venice... let’s go to the carnival!
Europe’s most popular carnivals are a great excuse to get away in February. Where do you fancy going? Cadiz, Tenerife, Venice, Basel...
more info10 Titbits About the Oasis Concert at Knebworth
Knebworth is no more than a village in the north of Hertfordshire, just over a half an hour’s train ride from central London. The original village, known as Old Knebworth, grew up around Knebworth House, a large Tudor country house with a Neogothic facade and a priceless Jacobean banquet hall. The new Knebworth village sprang up in the 19th century one mile east of Old Knebworth, alongside the train station and A1 motorway. But, it was from the 1970s onwards that the village came into the limelight owing to the mass concerts held there. The first groups to draw tens of thousands of fans to the spot were Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd and The Rolling Stones. And, in the 80s and 90s, the venue hosted events in the form of a festival, featuring such bands as Genesis, Dire Straits, Eric Clapton and Elton John.
But, pride of place goes to Oasis, who in two nights drew a crowd of no fewer than a quarter of a million people. Britain or, indeed, the whole world, had been bitten by the Oasis bug. There had been nothing like it since the advent of The Beatles. The group’s managers realised they were on to a good thing and decided to expose their proteges to as large an audience as possible. And where better to hold the festival than grounds well connected to the City? Thus, in the evening of 10 August 1996, the members of Oasis landed in their helicopter with a flabbergasted look on their faces. We recommend you see the documentary, “Supersonic”, by Mat Whitecross, which recently premiered in Spain during the last edition of In-Edit. The film tells the story of the band as seen through the eyes of its lead members, Liam and Noel Gallagher, covering the period running from their beginnings until the moment these two macro-concerts were held. But, apart from breaking all records, what else took place during those 48 hours? Here are 10 curious titbits that you were probably unaware of.
1. Two and a half million people applied for tickets
Over four per cent of the population of England applied for tickets to see Oasis at Knebworth, the largest ever demand for concert tickets in British history. Some 250,000 fans actually saw the band on those two nights – another record – but, incredibly, Oasis could have sold another 18 shows at Knebworth.
2. 7,000 people are thought to have been on the guest list
This figure has proved impossible to verify, although it is known to run into the thousands. But, what is really striking are the eye-witness accounts, which paint a picture of unimaginable indulgence backstage. A huge marquee was apparently full of bars, with well stocked bar counters. Drinks were on the house for both days and there were also free sweets and ice-creams. Additionally, a number of magicians and caricaturists were brought in to liven up the pre-concert wait.
3. 3,000 pro technicians were needed to organise the concert
No wonder, though, as the equipment included 11 loudspeaker towers set up increasingly further afield to make sure everyone would be able to hear Noel’s chords and Liam’s growling equally intensely.
4. The concerts had their own radio station for the occasion
Radio Supernova broadcast on 106.6 FM for a range of 20 miles. For the days it was on air, it blared out the Oasis signature tunes non-stop, followed by songs by the support bands. The station also broadcast information about the concert, accesses and transport to the grounds.
5. John Squire had the flu when guest player of “Champagne Supernova”
For many, a highlight of the night was when fellow Mancunian John Squire appeared on stage. The guitarist had split off from The Stone Roses just a couple of months before that and he showed up to sprinkle a touch of magic over the performances of “Champagne Supernova” and “I Am The Walrus”. A few days later, Noel Gallagher revealed to NME that he had been performing while under the effects of a severe bout of flu.
6. Oasis brand binoculars were handed out to all VIPs
A touch of irony, as the VIP area was the only vantage point from where the concert could be clearly seen without binoculars. But, to top it all, the Manchester boys had the visual aid of the largest video wall on earth at the time. Oh, well – who hasn’t been given some superfluous gift at some time in their lives? The Gallagher guests were not to be outdone.
7. The Charlatans supported Oasis just three weeks after the death of their keyboardist, Rob Collins
For The Charlatans, Knebworth was a bittersweet event. On the one hand, it acted as a launching pad for a band which was a standard-bearer of the early-nineties Madchester scene. But, on the other, they had to perform without their charismatic Rob Collins, who had died in a car crash three weeks earlier. An endearing moment came when Liam Gallagher dedicated the song “Cast No Shadow” to the fallen Charlatan.
8. Only 10 arrests were made during those two days
Which is quite surprising, given the huge number of festival-goers. How did they manage it? While it may seem unlikely to some, the fact is that Oasis fans are mostly law-abiding citizens.
9. Noel remembers nothing
As the saying went at the time, “If you can't remember anything about Britpop, it means you weren’t there”. And Noel’s recollection of that period is very sketchy. On occasion, he has even remarked that “even now, if I close my eyes, I can’t remember the moment I was on stage”.
10. One Oasis member thinks they should have split up immediately afterwards
“I always thought we should have retired after the second night at Knebworth”, said the guitarist Paul “Bonehead” Arthurs to The Guardian in 2009. In hindsight, it’s easy to draw the conclusion that Oasis would never better what they had achieved at Knebworth. But, who’s the brave guy that dares leave the group when it’s riding the crest of the wave? Bonehead finally quit in 1999 and became an ordinary person again.
Now you know a bit more about the legendary concert performed by Britain’s last great band. All that’s left is to discover the area where it all took place. Well, then, get “supersonic” and check out our flights here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Wikipedia Commons
more infoLake Starnberg
By Michael Schurmann from easyhiker.co
There is no shortage of attractive hiking destinations for day trips near Munich where you are during the Oktoberfest. Both the Goldsteig and the Altmühl-Panoramaweg “top trails” are just a train ride away, and of course, there are always the Alps.
But Lake Starnberg tops the list of day trip destinations because it is by far the easiest to reach and is the scene of a titillating piece of German royalty history. (More of that if you promise to read through.)
You can go there by City Rail (the S-Bahn) in 30 minutes from Munich Central Station, and the round trip is covered by the Munich day pass which gives you unlimited access to all the city’s public transport facilities (a steal at €20 for up to five persons).
Another reason why Lake Starnberg tops that list: it won’t take you long to reach it from Starnberg station.
On a clear day, you can even see the Alps at the far end.
This far end, it must be said, is quite a long way away. Lake Starnberg is about 20 km long, and although it is quite narrow (never more than 5 km wide), the whole tour around the big pond may easily come to about 50 km.
“Road leading to Possenhofen hiking trail in Starnberger See near Munich”
For a day trip, this is clearly off the scale. But thankfully, there are plenty of alternatives.
On the right side of the lake, for example, there are two more S-Bahn stations further down the track (Possenhofen and Tutzing), so in theory, you could take the train there and walk back to Starnberg (7 km and 14 km respectively).
This was, in fact, our original plan: a walk to Possenhofen, the childhood home and favourite retreat of the star-crossed empress Sissi.
But the road to Possenhofen was so busy (even used by trucks) and so far away from the actual lake – it was practically lined with residential homes, gardens and boat houses – that we broke off our trip after app. 1 mile and returned to Starnberg.
Fortunately for us, we then discovered that the “left” (or western) side of the lake provides a much more pleasant ambiente.
A recognized hiking trail, the “König Ludwig Weg”, runs down the entire length of the lake’s west bank. That should, at the very least, ensure that you are safe from truck traffic.
No S-Bahn trains circulate down this side of the lake, but ferries take you to several of the small towns that are scattered around, including Seehausen at the lake’s southern tip.
If you have a full day, this is what you could do: Hike all the way to Seehausen and return by boat.
We only had the time for one section of this trail, however, and decided to walk the 6 km from Starnberg to the town of Berg.
Out of the station and standing in front of the lake, turn left.
The first half mile takes you past a mix of residential and recreational buildings: homes, gardens, boat houses and a public swimming pool.
After the first of two wooden bridges, however, the scenery becomes far more idyllic: swans in the lake, groups of sturdily built Bavarian women training their Nordic walking skills, young families and students skipping a boring lecture.
When you return to the asphalted road, in the outskirts of Berg, you will see some of the most expensive real estate in Germany.
Lake Starnberg, so pretty and so near to Munich, Germany’s richest city, is very much the Alpine version of the Cote d’Azur (or Beverly Hills).
After walking about 15 minutes, you will find the boat pier on your right.
“Sign leading to Koenig Ludwig Weg hiking trail in Starnberger See in Munich”Check the arrival and departure times, because the traffic back to Starnberg is infrequent and somewhat irregular, and if you miss one boat, you may have to wait a couple of hours for the next one.
If you can, make time for an excursion to the Votivkapelle (just follow the signs) another 30 minutes away.
This chapel was erected to commemorate one of the great unsolved mysteries of German history.
It stands very near the place where the mad King Louis II of Bavaria, (builder of Neuschwanstein Castle and generous supporter of Richard Wagner’s operatic works), explored Lake Starnberg in a vertical direction. (A wooden cross in the water marks the spot.)
Was it an accident? Did he commit suicide? Or was some sort of jiggery pokery involved? (For a full round-up of events, go HERE.)
On the way to the chapel, you will come across a plaque on a boat house where it says that Ludwig often set out from there to meet with his “soul mate” Sissi on the other side of the lake.
I found it strange and almost touching to see that after all these years, the Bavarians still can’t quite seem to cope with the fact that their beloved “Kini” did not fancy girls all that much.
For a less shamefaced account of the king’s life, watch Ludwig II, directed by Luchino Visconti and featuring the male model Helmut Berger as the eponymous royal, one of the campiest movies ever made: the thinking man’s Wizard of Oz.
If you do not have the time to experience Mr. Visconti’s Magnum Opus in its full Wagnerian languor of 247 minutes, do yourself a favour: sample the director’s operatic ambition here.
The latter section also features here a must-watch Bavarian-style gay orgy with folk dancing, zither music and much mutual groping.
No wonder the locals hated the film so much that they tried to have it banned when it was first released in 1972.)
Now, return to the pier where – if there is still time – you can have a coffee or a beer on the terrace of the Hotel Berg before taking the boat back to Starnberg.
If you have started your day before 12, you can still be back at your favourite Oktoberfest beer tent before the evening rush begins – and won’t miss any of the action.
Why not take a trip to Munich? Have a look at our flights here!
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