Looking for somewhere cool to travel in summer? Try Reykjavik, Oslo or Helsinki
Many people make a beeline for the beach in summer, but you have other plans for the holidays. If you fancy grabbing your raincoat instead of your swimming costume, here are three cool destinations that you might like. Next stop – Reykjavik, Oslo or Helsinki!
more info2 days in Santiago de Compostela
Culture, architecture, art, tales of brave pilgrims reaching their final destination, tapas, wine, merriment and much more. Two days in Santiago de Compostela is like two days in paradise. Shall we?
more infoA Day On Lobos Island
This secluded spot in the middle of the Atlantic, which owes its name to a colony of monk seals (“sea wolves”) that once dwelt here, is synonymous with the triumph of nature. Lobos Island is a small volcanic islet located 2 kilometres off northern Fuerteventura, opposite the coast of Africa. It is part of the protected Corralejo Dunes Nature Reserve, covering just 5 square kilometres and with a 14-kilometre-long coastline, uninhabited by man and teeming with plant life which is unique to this spot – some 130 species of indigenous flora have been recorded. It is also a refuge for free-roaming migratory birds and a destination for explorers who trek along its arid footpaths, dive in the crystal-clear waters or simply plonk themselves down on the white sands of the island’s beaches.
Lobos Island can be reached by ferries which sail from the port of Corralejo. You have several options – mini-cruises, express ferries, etc. – so the best thing is to roll up and check out all the available facilities. El Majorero plies the official route, sailing at 10 a.m. and returning at 6 p.m. Be warned that their timetable changes in the winter months. To spend a pleasant day on Lobos Island, you are advised to take along sun cream, a cap, comfortable footwear, binoculars, food and water and, above all, to observe the signposts. As it is a Protected Nature Reserve, it is important to follow the indications.
I’m of the opinion that the best way to discover a place is by hiking around it, so I recommend taking the circular route, which stretches for eight kilometres. Your goal is the Martiño Lighthouse, dating from 1865. There is only one restaurant on Lobos Island so that, if you want to eat there, you have to book as soon as you reach the island. I assure you that, after a four-hour hike under the sun, the taste of fried fish or paella – the only two dishes they serve – is out of this world.
The route starts at the jetty and you take the footpath in the direction of El Puertito, an erstwhile fisherman’s cottage with a few masonry shelters. Here you will find the beach hut known as the Chiringuito Antoñito el Farero, named after the last inhabitant of the island. You then proceed along the coastal fork towards Las Lagunitas, a protected area of considerable natural value with its agaves and migratory birds, until you come to the Faro Martiño lighthouse, which affords stunning, 360° panoramic views. You will come across a memorial plaque of the writer, Josefina Pla, who was born on the island. After reaching the end of the trail, you make the return journey along the inland route. If you still have the energy to walk a bit further, there is a path forking off on the right that goes up to the old, 127-metre-high La Caldera volcano. Bear in mind that the approach route is short and steep, but the climb is highly rewarding as the summit provides spectacular views of Fuerteventura and Lanzarote.
On your return, stop at the wonderful La Concha beach, with its fine white sand and crystal-clear, calm waters, on account of the reefs that check the fury of the sea. Ideal for having a dip and sunbathing. But, beware – the sun can be torrid and there is no shade on the beach. If you decide to spend the day at the seaside, best take a sunshade along. The same footpath leads to the jetty – where you got off the boat a few hours ago and which is also the site of the Centro de Interpretación. From there, it takes you to the beach bar with its dining room literally on the beach – a picture postcard setting to mark the end of your day in paradise!
Book your Vueling to Fuerteventura and be sure to head for Lobos Island.
Text and images by Teresa Vallbona
more infoThe Rugged Side of Majorca
Majorca is renowned the world over for its beaches and coves, but the Sierra de Tramuntana, which rises over a thousand metres above the island’s north coast, is a veritable paradise for hiking enthusiasts. An intricate network of centuries-old tracks and footpaths has been upgraded into a set of fully-fledged walking routes traversing a surprisingly rocky landscape carpeted with dense forest. Peeping out of the clearings are a number of quaint villages and hamlets that preserve their pristine charm. A long-distance footpath, known as the Dry Stone Route (Ruta de Piedra en Seco) or GR-221, runs from one end of the range to the other, flanked by the most rugged landscapes in Majorca. The route, imbued with the region’s rich cultural heritage, covers 120 km and can be done in full or by sections. For visitors with a tight schedule, we have selected three of the best sections along the trail.
1. Ses Basses and La Trapa – the Stunning Sa Dragonera Vantage Point
The walking route starts at the Coll de Sa Gramola, a mountain pass accessible from the Andratx main road. From here, a trail heads westwards towards the caseta de Ses Basses. After that the path narrows and leads to an area with various viewpoints overlooking the sea, affording wonderful panoramic views. The trail gradually merges into the wild landscape which compounds a rugged, breathtaking setting against the backdrop of the island of Sa Dragonera protruding into the sea. After a descent flanked by vegetation, you come to an old Trappist monastery now under restoration. The project will eventually include a shelter for hikers. For the return trip, you go back the same way you came.
Recommendations:
This is an easy route, covering 15 km for the whole round trip, ideal for a morning’s hike.
Access: Coll de Sa Gramola lies 5 km from Andratx, reached via the Ma-10 main road, where there is a parking area. If you happen to come in two cars, you can extend the excursion beyond La Trapa as far as Sant Elm, where you can park one of the cars beforehand. The walking distance from Coll de Sa Gramola to Sant Elm is 13 km in all. Remember to take water as there are no drinking sources on the way and little shade.
2. Camí de s’Arxiduc – a High-Flying Lookout Between Valldemossa and Deià
The excursion begins at the Charterhouse of Valldemossa, the former residence of King Sancho I of Majorca. Exit the village of Valldemossa following the white and red markers of the GR-221 along a stony path with a steep gradient that ends at the Es Cairats shelter, which is still closed. It should be noted that original route of the GR-221 was very different from the current one as it used to go over the summit of Talaia Vella, from where it joined up with the Camí de s’Arxiduc. On the new route, old lime kilns are visible on the ascent leading to Es Cairats, as are charcoal kilns and the small shelters once inhabited by those in charge of managing resources in the magnificent holm oak woods.
After the shelter, the footpath turns into a track and you soon come to a wild, open area. The GR-221 markers lead to the summit of Puig Gros, the Pla des Aritges plain and Es Caragolí, where the route finally links up with the panoramic Camí de s’Arxiduc. Before taking a detour to descend towards Deià, it is well worth walking a few extra yards – even though this involves going back on our tracks – along this emblematic route, as it runs along the ridge of the mountains. It was commissioned by the Archduke Louis Salvador of Habsburg-Lorraine in the late-19th century for the sole purpose of being able to enjoy the scenery.
Recommendations:
While only 13 km long, the route has a difficulty of medium-high, on account of the slopes and terrain, which is very rocky and steep in some stretches.
Access: You can leave your car in Valldemossa and take the bus back from Deià.
3. From Sóller to the Monastery of Lluc – A Weekend in the Mountain Heartland
One of the most spectacular, varied, accessible and best appointed sections of the GR-221 is the one that connects the historical town of Sóller to the Monastery of Lluc. It covers a distance of 35 km and can readily be divided into two stages – of 19 km and 15 km each – with an overnight in the Tossals Verds shelter.
Stage 1 – On the first day, the GR-221 markers point you from the centre of Sóller to the bucolic Biniaraix gorge. This involves a pronounced accumulated slope, leading up to the Coll de l’Ofre and the Cúber dam. From here, the more seasoned hikers can proceed to the Tossals Verds shelter via the new Pas Llis bypass, with an added ascent and a brief, simple equipped pass. The alternative is the old route which goes around Coll des Coloms and does not entail any difficulty.
Stage 2 – After regaining your strength in the shelter, you proceed along the GR-221 towards the panoramic areas of Coll des Prat and Coll des Telègraf. From here, a long descent leads you to the monastery along a winding path which snakes through a holm-oak wood featuring old but recently restored ice pits.
Recommendations:
The trek lasts two days and the difficulty level is medium to high, as it includes steep slopes – with a daily accumulated slope of over 1,100 metres – and prolonged descents along tracks. The terrain is rocky and requires mountain footwear, in addition to trekking poles. While the path is signposted with posts, waymarkers and paint marks, it is advisable to take your own hiking map, such as the one published by the Editorial Alpina. You should also book overnights at the Tossals Verds shelter in advance, as capacity is limited (website).
Access: You can get a bus to Sóller from Palma, or you can travel on the old Sóller railway, which has been plying the route daily since 1912. You can take the L330 line bus to make the return journey from Lluc to Palma.
Don’t wait to discover the rugged enclaves of Majorca – check out our flights here.
Text by Sergio Fernández Tolosa & Amelia Herrero Becker of Con Un Par de Ruedas
Photos by Con Un Par de Ruedas
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