Packed with tradition and historic heritage, Seville is one city you’ll want to return to again and again. There’s always something new to see and plenty to do at night.
The Andalusian capital is a city built on tradition, but it’s been reinventing itself for some time now. The result is a vibrant cultural scene far removed from the well-worn stereotypes. If you don’t believe us, just take a look at our suggestions for what to do at night in Seville.
The mushrooms by night
Sevillians love to come up with nicknames for things, so it’s no surprise to learn that—thanks to its distinctive fungi-like form—this structure has become better-known as “the Seville mushrooms” than its official title of Metropol Parasol. Either way, it’s one of Seville’s don’t-miss nocturnal attractions.
Designed by German architect Jürgen Mayer for the Plaza de la Encarnación, it’s the largest wooden structure in the world and has quickly become a landmark. The 360o viewing platform is the perfect place to take photos of Seville by night: at over 20 metres high the walkway affords some of the best ever-changing views of the city’s different neighbourhoods. Just book the last time slot from 21:30 to 22:00
Being ‘extravagant’ has never been more fun
There’s no better way to kick off an evening’s bar crawl in Seville than with the delightful creative chaos of the Caótica bookshop on Calle José Gestoso, just behind the Mushrooms in Plaza de la Encarnación. Seville was never a city known for its bookshops until a few years ago when ones like Un Gato en Bicicleta, Casa Tomada and Librería Verbo, on Calle Sierpes, began to pop up.
Caótica is a new project that started as a cooperative in 2017 in the former La Extravagante bookshop with the aim of shaking up the city’s cultural scene. The three founding partners, Maite Aragón, Begoña Torre and Joaquín Sovilla, describe it as a lively, ever-changing space. There’s also a café with a carefully chosen selection of food and drink based on seasonal produce. Graffiti behind the bar reminds you why you’re here: “We are the sum of the books we read, the journeys we take and the people we love”.
Triana, best after dark
Triana is one of the most characterful neighbourhoods in the city. It’s gone from an old fishing neighbourhood linked to Seville by a bridge to one of the city’s most popular tourist destinations and is definitely at its best after dark. There are loads of lively bars and flamenco shows where you can experience the essence of Andalusia. First, though, line your stomach at Lonja del Barranco, a former fish market that has been transformed into a gourmet space.
The show must, and does, go on at Casa Anselma. A few years ago, the owners of these premises were unwilling to renew the rental contract, but this legendary establishment with over 30 years of history was saved from closure by protests from the community. That alone should give you an idea of how passionate people are about the nightlife in this bar, which Doña Anselma has presided over since day one. Her presence alone gives the place its character, but there are also local musicians who get the locals clapping, as well as the odd tourist with no sense of beat or rhythm but doing their best to keep up. Entry is free, but it’s best to buy something if you want to stay on the right side of Doña Anselma.
Craft beer and more books…
How could the city of beer not have a craft brewery? La Jerónima is also a micro bookshop selling a small sample of books from independent editorials. It’s open until midnight so, along with the atmosphere and some 30 Andalusian beers on offer, it’s the perfect place to meet friends before partying on in Seville. The decor is in recycled-furniture style, always preferable to a plastic chair. Don’t miss the cheese tapas with beer jam, your perfect first taste of Seville after dark.
The Jewish Quarter by night
Window grills, geraniums, carnations, arches, hidden corners that are an oasis of calm, squares where the sound of water evokes another age… Just a few of the many treasures that await visitors to Seville’s Jewish Quarter, one of the most unmissable Sevillian nocturnal sights. Right from the start, it’s filled with the promise of everything that lies in store as you stroll through the narrow streets.
Seville’s Jewish Quarter covers the three modern-day neighbourhoods of Santa Cruz, Santa María la Blanca and San Bartolomé. To get a better feel for the history of the place, visit the Interpretative Centre of the Jewish Quarter of Seville which runs guided tours, including a fascinating nocturnal walk that’s filled with legends. As the website says, though, make sure you reserve up to a month in advance.
conTenedor has fast become a fixture on the Seville slow food scene. The city is having its foodie moment now, but conTenedor is already well-established, having been on Calle San Luis 50 for 13 years. In a relaxed setting surrounded by artworks, dinners can take their time over dinner, savouring the experience and the space as much as the food, which is based around fresh and organic produce hand-picked from the market. The menu offers some 14 or 15 dishes that change regularly, but their crispy rice is a firm favourite that’s capable of inciting passions and lighting up the Seville night.
A knee-trembling nocturnal experience
Nighttime is the right time for ghost stories, so why not muster all your courage and step inside this monument? The Hospital de la Caridad isn’t the Giralda or Real Alcázar, but it’s a beautiful baroque building that isn’t overrun with visitors and holds an important part of Seville’s history within its walls. The building’s former use is enough to make your hair stand on end. It certainly saw some macabre moments during the plague epidemics that hit the city of Seville (on which a popular TV series was based). All will be revealed on the tour run by Engranajes Culturales, one of the most popular things to do at night in Seville. Since December 2018, you can also see two fully restored paintings by Murillo, one of a team of painters of the day who were invited to decorate the building.
So, like we said, Seville is one city you’ll want to return to again and again. All you need to do now is to book a flight.