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Eight Bookshops To Enjoy During the Sant Jordi Book Fair

If we had to choose the ideal day for visiting Barcelona and seeing it in all its finery, that date would undoubtedly be 23 April. The celebration of the Catalan “Diada de Sant Jordi” (Feast of St George) sees Barcelona festooned with books and roses, and thousands of people crowding the streets in search of new book releases or their favourite author to autograph a copy of their purchase. Roses are also in evidence everywhere, particularly red ones, which all young men are duty bound to gift to their beloved. The ritual is re-enacted year after year and draws numerous booksellers to the city. Following is a list of the main bookshops in Barcelona which you are encouraged to visit on the Feast of St George or, to avoid the crush, any time you happen to be book hunting in Barcelona.

1. Laie
A true beacon of Barcelona’s literary scene and a must-visit destination for any reading enthusiast is Libreria Laie, specialising in art, literature and the humanities. This well managed bookstore also features a café-restaurant on the upper floor, the perfect spot for chatting about the latest literary releases.

2. La Central del Raval
Located in the heart of El Raval quarter, and housed in the former Chapel of Misericordia, is Central del Raval, a classic in the city’s literary scene, boasting some 80,000 titles. Featuring books on anthropology, architecture, design, art, cinema and photography, as well as poetry and the performing arts, among others. Also on the premises is an area devoted to literary activities.

3. Altaïr
Planning to travel anytime soon? Make a point of visiting Librería Altaïr to research your trip beforehand, as there you will find all the books you need to prepare your getaway. They specialise in travel, and as such are one of the largest bookshops in Europe, stocking travel guides, maps and books relating to all possible destinations imaginable.

4. Taifa
Located on the Calle Verdi, in the heart of Gràcia, is the bookstore Librería Taifa. Founded in 1993 by the poet, publisher and literary critic, José Batlló, they stock both new and secondhand books. While specialising in the humanities, the store is noted for its section on cinema, which the proprietors hold in great esteem.

5. Hibernian Books
Also located in the Gràcia  district is Hiberian Books, which is celebrated for being the only store in Barcelona specialising in secondhand books in English. Their list runs into some 40,000 titles, covering all possible genres, including a section featuring children’s books.

6. Loring Art
Loring Art
are specialists in contemporary visual culture. The store started out in 1996 with just a hundred titles, while nowadays it has some 20,000, a treat for connoisseurs of this genre. Their offerings provide a journey through 20th- and 21st-century painting, sculpture, design, fashion, photography, architecture, cinema, music, the performing arts and electronic art.

7. Casa Anita
This unique bookshop located in the Gràcia district is dedicated to illustrated books. While targeting primarily children and young readers, their titles are a delight for children and adults alike.

8. Arkham Comics
This small bookshop in El Raval specialises in comics. Although it can be challenging to jostle your way among so many volumes, this is the perfect place for devotees of graphic novels, who are urged to take the advice of Xavi, the ever-helpful owner.

Book your Vueling to Barcelona and delve into the city’s literary world, as well as revelling in one of the city’s most becoming festivities.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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Town of Dreams

The Hay Festival of Literature & Arts, to be held this year from 21 to 31 May, has its origins in the small Welsh town of Hay-on-Wye, some 50 kilometres from Cardiff. An annual event, it brings together writers, musicians, film-makers and other leading lights of the art world. The main goal of the festival is to open up channels of dialogue between the various cultural fields, an idea which has been exported to other countries and has prompted similar events in England, Spain, Colombia, Kenya, India, Mexico, the Lebanon and Hungary. Featuring over 900 activities spread over a ten-day period, its participants include some of the world’s finest intellectual talent.

Not Only Letters

The festival does not live by letters alone. It also hosts conferences and workshops on painting, social activism, medicine, sport and architecture. Notable, too, is the music scheduled for this year, offering live performances by London’s King Charles, a winner of the International Songwriting Competition, the Glasgow group Texas, whose twenty-five-year career is marked by the release of their disc, “Texas 25”, and the Touareg musical ensemble, Tinariwen, among many others.

A Festival For Children and Families

Hay Fever is the name by which the children’s version of the festival is known. Noteworthy scheduled activities include story-telling, illustration workshops tutored by the world’s leading story illustrators, puppet theatre and children’s concerts. Check out the varied programme for all ageshere.Hay-on-Wye is located in the Brecon Beacons National Park. It is the ideal starting point for viewing its stunning natural beauty and participating in open-air activities, like embarking on a panoramic cruise down the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canalor hiring a canoe to paddle along it with the whole family.

Hay-on-Wye – the Town of Books

Hay-on-Wye, the original, authentic town of books, has a charm all its own, as evinced in its houses and cottages. The town is packed with delightful bookshops, their shelves crammed with second-hand books. But, how did it actually become a magnet for book-lovers? It all started when Richard Booth, a bibliophile and Oxford graduate, turned up one day in this small town on the border between Wales and England with the firm intention to establish it as a world literary landmark. He purchased the fire station and castle and set up second-hand bookshops on the premises. The idea caught on quickly and other bookshops joined in, turning the town into a tourist destination for book enthusiasts. Hay-on-Wye, with a population of under 2,000 inhabitants, is currently estimated to house up to a million books.

Richard Booth still has his two bookshops in Hay-on-Wye. The largest of them, Richard Booth’s Bookshop, at 44 Lion Street, is a charming timber store including a cinema and cafe. The other one, Hay Castle Bookshop, is located in Hay Castle. One of its towers houses the large bookshop run by Booth’s wife, and there are umpteen metres of shelves crammed with books in the garden, too. Here, there are no shop assistants – you choose the book you want and put your money into the so-calledhonesty boxes.

Are you rearing to go? Check out our prices here!

Text: Scanner FM

Images: Stephen Cleary | Hannah Swithinbank

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Brisk Encounter With Berlin Techno Part 1

The techno splendour of Berlin in the nineties is unlikely to return. But, this does not prevent the German capital from oozing club culture. We’re guiris – you can see that from a mile away. We smile in the metro simply because we’re downing one of the umpteen exquisite beers you can easily buy in Berlin’s 24-hour stores, or in the metro itself, from the stands that have taken over the underground landings. We’re guiris and, as such, we soak up the city’s nightlife by living out all the dreams and half-truths handed down to us about the historic nineties in Berlin, of basement clubs and all-night parties. Our premise is straightforward – what remains of that club culture splendour in Berlin? We have just forty-eight hours to tune in to the techno beat of today.

It’s Friday, so the adventure begins. Like any decent racing car, the body requires breaking in. And no other European city has more – or better – excuses than Berlin to drink a beer drawn at the counter. Our first stop takes us to Hops & Barley, a tavern with as many types of frothy beverage as the likelihood of rain in that Teutonic country. Dim light, gridded floor and we’re hard put to find a bar stool. The ideal space for stretching exercises.

When one’s throat is sated with pilsen, it’s time to move on, and the metro is our best option. Berlin has a comprehensive network and trains run to 12.30 in the morning on weekdays and round the clock on weekends. Near the Ostkreuz metro station, in an area hemmed in by railway lines and studded with niches formed by twisted iron bars –– a surprise awaits us. In a fenced off work area a bonfire is burning, surrounded by a group of youngsters, a computer and loudspeakers playing techno full blast. Here, the “scouts” listen to catchy “bits”, an image far removed from that of youngsters in Spain, where they gather around a bonfire, guitar and songbook in hand. Open-air parties are a permanent fixture of Berlin – they know a thing or two about them in Rummelsburg.

With this good omen of the city’s techno DNA behind us, we head for a an illustrious nearby squatter’s venue, ://about blank, one of Berlin’s numerous self-managed centres. “Love techno, hate Germany”, it says on the door. The day’s programme is antifascist, for 12 euros. Inside, the dark, crowded cube that is ://about blank offers a heady experience – a tight space and many young Berliners with their eyes closed, swinging their heads about frantically to the music DJ’ed in vinyl. The inner patio is the place to chill out. They recommend we attend a festival called Homophätik, which we will likely check out on subsequent trips.

Berlin does not sit well with the idea of “on a human scale”, as it stretches across a vast territory. This means you have to make the right choices. As for the right days – Chalet is the ideal club for Wednesdays, while Renate is best for Thursdays. But, today is Friday and it’s past four in the morning. We decide to leave the great techno marathon for tomorrow.

Saturday dawns splendidly for a day in May – the sun sends powerful shafts of light into the inner courts created by the residential blocks strewn across Berlin’s terrain. In one of them, some girls are rehearsing a choreography. Next door, a boom box blasts out strains of ambient music.

For lunch – it’s amazing how quick noon sets in when you’ve been up in the wee hours – we are taken by a Sudanese restaurant on Reichenberger street. This is a small eatery with a one-dish menu of the day – for meat-eaters and vegans – at competitive prices. Before plunging into the night again, we spend the afternoon browsing intently through another of any music lover’s crown jewels in Berlin – the record shops.

While finding the stores is something of an achievement, The Record Loft poses a veritable quest. But, using up the few megabytes of your ISP’s European rates brings a reward. On the fourth floor above another of the aforementioned inner patios lies Hard Wax, accessed via a staircase with steps plastered with labels and magazines from all continents. Hard Wax is a small label specialised in electronic music. They also have a vinyl store. The afternoon is also a good time to dip into the bookshops in the Hackescher Markt.  Some have large techno sections, notably Do you read me?, which also boasts a selection of local fanzines. In fact, their bibliography of Berlin’s cultural construction is extensive, ranging from such titles as Future Days, from “early times”, to Krautrock and the Construction of Modern Germany, to works focusing on the nineties like Der Klang, der familie. There are also exclusive titles from Berlin itself, witness Berlin Sampler. From Cabaret to Techno. 1904-2012.

Once your hands are sore from leafing through boxes of vinyls and keying in the titles of upcoming releases, it’s time to head for one of the pre-party clubs. But, more about that in the next chapter.

Text by Yeray S. Iborra | Our thanks to Ángel Molina, Ana Riaza, Carlota Surós and Martí Renau for the first-hand information on the itinerary for this article.

Images by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS, Michael Mayer

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Belgrade In Three Itineraries

In truth, Belgrade has not been fairly treated by history, as the peoples, cultures and religions that passed through the city left more of a trail of destruction than a positive, lasting historical footprint. Surprisingly, however, Belgraders have chosen to preserve the vestiges of those civilisations that occupied and also ravaged the city.

Former Singidunum

A Celtic tribe first settled Singidun (meaning “round fort”) in the 3rd century BC, on the site of the extant Kalemegdan Fortress. Subsequently, the Roman army arrived and changed the name to Singidunum, which endured until the city became Beograd in the year 878.

Remains of the fort built by the Celtic tribes, as well as some dating from the Roman period, can still be seen in Kalemegdan Park, where the original garrison was sited. Sections of an aqueduct, cisterns and some stretches of the wall stand side by side with an unusual mixture of buildings from different periods, such as those from the Ottoman and the Austro-Hungarian periods, which we will be looking at in a moment.

No fewer than 18 Roman emperors were born in Serbia; no wonder, then, that the Roman legacy still lingers in parts of the country. Notable examples are Viminacium – present-day Kostolac – or Felix Romuliana, situated near the archaeological site of Gamzigrad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007.

In Belgrade, the two museums you cannot fail to visit if you want to research the country’s Roman heritage are the Belgrade City Museum and the National Museum of Serbia.

Ottoman Belgrade

Traces of the Ottoman period can be seen in the 15th-century stone paving of Skadarlija, Belgrade’s best known pedestrian precinct in the Bohemian Quarter. Here, things get into full swing at nightfall when the numerous restaurants, taverns and cafés are frequented by Serbians and foreigners alike, eager to taste the cuisine hot off the fire. Notable dishes include sarma (vine leaves stuffed with meat and vegetables), kebab (meat on the skewer) and baklava (the famous confectionery of honey-rolled nuts), liable to transport diners back to Belgrade’s Ottoman past.

Of the 273 mosques that once existed in the city, only the Bajrakli Džamija mosque, dating from 1575, is still standing. Having survived the passage of time, partial destruction and other attacks, it was rebuilt and is now open to Belgrade’s Muslim community.

Several Ottoman vestiges can also be seen in the aforementioned fort in Kalemegdan Park, including the Sahat Tower, with its striking clock, and the Tomb of Silahdar Damat Ali Pasha, housing the remains of the Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire and “Conqueror of Morea” (the Byzantine name for the Peloponnese), who ruled from 1713 to 1716.

Belgrade also features a very interesting museum for those wishing to find out more about the city’s Ottoman legacy. This is the Galeriji Fresaka (Gallery of Frescoes), with its exhibition of over 1,300 frescoes, which are actually copies of icons found on Serbian monuments dating from the 11th to the 15th century, some of which are Byzantine in style. Some of the icons have been destroyed in their original location, while others have fallen into disrepair.

Austro-Hungarian Belgrade

Perhaps the entire heritage of Belgrade’s Austro-Hungarian past, which lasted from 1867 to 1919, can be summed up in one word – Zemun. This is the name of an unusual district which did not become part of Serbia until the outbreak of the First World War and which breathes an atmosphere unlike that of any other district in the city.

But the whole ensemble of eclectic art dating from the period 1860 to the late 1920s, in addition to neo-Renaissance historicist architecture, abounds along the pedestrian precinct of Kneza Mihaila, Belgrade’s major thoroughfare and shopping area. Stretching for one kilometre, it features striking mansions from the late 1870s, as well as bookshops, fashion stores, cafés and souvenir stalls where you can soak up the vibrant everyday activity of Belgrade.

Another lively spot in the city, and also a meeting point for Belgraders and foreigners, is Trg Republike (Republic Square), with its emblematic “Horse”. Executed in 1882, this equestrian statue of Mihajlo Obrenović III (Prince Michael) commemorates his expulsion of the Turks. Behind it stands the aforementioned National Museum of Serbia, due to open to the public again in April 2016 as it is currently closed for renovation. 

I bet you hadn’t thought of a city like this! Why wait to discover it for yourself? Check out our flights here.

 

Text and photographs by Ana Isabel Escriche (Planeta Dunia)

 

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